Show pra ot mode Is one aked af after ter the be season ason has opened after till all of tho the startling things have been exhibited by both american and french designers after fashionable women have had a chance to select with core care those creations that they consider worthy of their notice then comes a blending an amalgamation of the two showings and the ultimate result to Is not always what one might expect or wish it to bo be observes a fashion writer in the fhe now york times however 1 thero there Is usually a large proportion 0 of f good sense incorporated in the union and enough of general good looks to make anko us till all appear well dressed according to popular taste there are points about the american womans comans figure which will not lend themselves to the lines of french cleths cloths they must necessarily bo be i ll 11 coat oat of white crepe trimmed with rose ROM petals from awn material adapted and changed t td our own lines and proportions and while some of tho the designs are spoiled by the change others seem to take on an added interest then there our awn own homo home grown varieties keyed keya to suit the american woman and no one else on earth it ono one of these can be exclusive enough then it Is a find indeed sometimes the material makes it distinctive enough again there are little varla varin eions la in cut which accomplish the same end there are all sorts of ways of achieving tho the godl goal when the under tak lug Is handled by an artist straight lines and plaits plait even tho the french designers find that the old standard lines are surviving with a persistence velch they might ml wish otherwise plaits this season have found a fast place in popular favor there are whole dresses chicharo which charo are platted plaited there are blouses laid n finely placed plaits there are plaited inserts and platted plaited capes and platted plaited coats and many of the frocks which are expressive of the seasons cea sons styles have plaits incorporated in their making but in such an astute manner that they almost look uke like flat portions of the gown only when any movement of the figure Is shown Is there a revelation of the ahe fact that more fullness has been concealed under flat plaits than could possibly be visible ot at first sight A dress which la Is very pleasing allows that typo of 0 frock which Is made with I 1 an underskirt of one sort and an over dress made by tho the arrangement of up ap plied piled panels oil all cut alike and posted at intervals to simulate a overita ble overskirt in this case the under dresa dreas la is composed of one of those s specially ally and fancifully woven fabrics that have their coloring of many shades and tones in a weaving that to la unusual enough to make it notable over that flat foundation there Is enough of blue to establish the frock na as one of the blue serge company of the season the trimming so eo far ds aa the skirt shirt Is concerned lies underneath instead of on top as Is generally the case long straight coat worn As the spring days grow warmer we seo BLO more and more of the long straight boats upon the streets some of these are exquisitely embroidered others are made of those brocaded stuffs and still others are covered with machine embroidery brol dery which Is more or less beautiful depending largely upon anil and execution then there are the longer conta coats made with some attention to individual design and provided with trimmings that make them notable one of these Is in white for summer wear made of a heavy white crepe its little repeated petals of trimming being made of the selisa selfsame md material around their edges it Is gracefully tied with a bow of the crepe at one side and the skirt of the cont falls into a drapery at that same side aide which looks for nil all the horld orld like the streaming end from the bow at the low waistline collars on these longer coats are most interesting both us as to cut and trim of becomingness they tire are all more or less straight and folded and nd while some of them are of fur others are trimmed with stripes of embroidery brol dery or with a succession oi of tucks or with a layer of printed stuff or with silk of some shade that contrasts with the making of the coat while the coat Is straight and scant and slim the collar tind and often the cuffs take unto themselves all sorts of widths so BO that they achieve a fullness and a general width for the coat which gives it style this coat has accomplished this same end by using wide and gracefully falling r rovers evers in connection with the wide trimmed cuffs the tailored sutas have skirts that are split on one side aide indeed they are very often real wraparound wrap around skirts that leavean leave an opening on the loft left side clear to the waistline but with so BO much material left on the under tilde aide that they do not flare open by this method they tire kept tight and at tile the same time they offer all of the comfort and easo ease that mat a much wider and perhaps more bulky skirt might do tho the hat of wider brim thero there tire are rumors that a hat of wider brim will be more the thing for warmer summer days and really this ahls la Is always tile the case as the pun fun more brightly therefore the information can be depended upon but for these larger brimmed shapes there will be only little spots of trimming only combinations of color that create a subtle effect of trimming all by bv themselves the short coats as a the season advances or ns as the ge designers signers advance in their showings for the season become shorter and straighter although they are nie likely to be embroidered until every inch of space Is covered they are showing less and lesl less of trimming or any applied decoration the hat that goes with this jacket while it Is an exaggeration of the mushroom shape with its trimmon trimming 9 none the less illustrates the fashion it Is ninde made of brown straw to match the binding of the coat and the silk trimming has a lighter tone on the outside with the darker shade used for a facing |