| Show - -- A - Louisiana 1 The Salt Lake Tribune Sunday June T7 5 1988 New Orleans' French Quarter blends sass with charm By Randy and Karen Mink equestrian statue of Jackson is the park's centerpiece In the morning drivers start lining up on Decatur NEW ORLEANS — A fountain's g soothing trickle breaks the quiet as you butter croissants in your hotel's cobbled courtyard Magnolia and banana trees shade the marble patio tables red hibiscus flowers accent luxuriant foliage Passageways lead to guest rooms fashioned out of brick buildings that once housed aristocrats and slaves here in New Orleans' romantic French Quarter If you stay at the Place d'Armes or another hotel in the city's historic heart all the magic of the French Quarter lies at your feet Exploring in fact is best done by foot A pedestrian's paradise the French Quarter's narrow streets invite you to walk and gawk Nothing in this carefully-preserved zone is more than 15 minutes from your doorstep Earthy elegant and avant garde New Orleans is one of America's great tourist cities a place that will tantalize delegates attending this August's Republican National Convention Few urban centers nurture your creative impulses more than "Nawlins" a hangout for writers artists and musicians The French Quarter a National Historic District enchants vacationers with its bohemian atmosphere and exotic blend of European and Caribbean cultures Nights of course belong to Bourbon Street with all its raucous revelry: But even if you are not a wee hohrs carouser and shudder at the very thought of being in town for February's Mardi Gras madness the French Quarter overflows with tam- An early-mornin- - mule-carriag- e Street while gardeners hose down the square's pathways Artists set up their easels and hang their sketches on the iron fences Later on musicians assemble to belt out jazz reggae and blues Across Decatur stands the castle-lik- e Jackson Brewery an old brewery now alive with specialty stores restaurants and free entertainment For views of "01 Man River" have drinks at the rooftop bar or grab a bench along the nearby Moonwalk a sweeping wooden promenade named for former Mayor "Moon" Landrieu Steps away is the Steamboat Natchez an paddlewheeler harbor cruises that offers two-hoThe French Market a colonnaded markets restauseries of open-ai- r rants and stores stretches four blocks along the riverfront The oldest structure has housed the famous Cafe du Monde since the 1860s Open 24 hours a day the cafe is a must for first-tim- e visitors Order the classic cafe au lait a blend of strong chicory coffee and hot milk with beignets puffy square donuts served hot and smothered with pow- dered sugar In the nearby Dutch Alley you can attend free jazz concerts on weekends or gather at the National Park Service visitors center for a free French Quarter walking tour introducAfter a ranger-guide- d tion the place is yours to enjoy at leisure Wander into shops admire the graceful architecture soak up the Old World ambience The French Quarter may smack of a theme park in atmosphere but not in aesthetics The cramped district has cramped district has crumbling sidewalks and other signs of shabbiness found in older cities Call it character At every turn there's a new discovery to please the senses whether it's a lone saxophonist playing for his of a mule's bread the hoofs the aromas of coffee and pastries or the hanging gardens that festoon buildings washing in shades of pink peach sky blue and other tropical hues Several lavishly-furnishe- d 19th century homes are open for tours For a ringside look at street life ensconce yourself in the outside gallery of a bar or restaurant perhaps the Embers Steak House where you can hear the blare of trumpets strains of clarinets and pounding of rock music drifting from sassy Bourbon Street saloons The street's pedestrian mall is a show in itself attractconing everyone from wide-eye- d ventioneers and loud youths to honeymooners and senior citizen tour groups Hucksters make pitches for striptease shows and female wrestling Because many clubs keep their doors and windows open passersby can enjoy the bans from the er pleasures You can spend entire days poking into shops touring museums and mansions and sampling New Orleans' distinctive food at bistros coffeehouses and famous restaurants e Take a ride admire the works of sidewalk artists and watch impromptu shows staged by street bands and acrobats For most tourists the French Quarter is New Orleans The enclave of gas lamps and pastel buildings with balconies was laid out in a gridiron plan by 18th century French settlers who chose this site at the mouth of the Mississippi River The grillwork and leafy hidden courtyards as well as most of the buildings actually reflect the period of Spanish domination fires in 1788 and 1794 destroyed all but one of the structures built under French rule In 1803 Spain gave "Nueva Orleans" back to France which soon ceded "Nouvelle Orleans" and the vast Louisiana Territory to the United States The spires of St Louise Cathedral soar above the French Quarter's slate roofs in the same way that caEurothedrals dominated early-da- y pean towns The tall white church the oldest active cathedral in the nation faces Jackson Square the hub of New Orleans since its founding The green oasis fronting Decatur Street and the Mississippi is the logical point to get your bearings Jackson Square once known as the Place d'Armes or Plaza de Armas was a military parade ground for French and Spanish troops It also saw public hangings and beheadings In the 1850s the square was named for Andrew Jackson hero of the Battle of New Orleans mule-carriag- street magnets are located on St Peter Street Pat O'Brien's one of the most visited bars in the world draws tourists to its magnificent courtyard and indoor music lounge where the popular drink is the original Hurricane cocktail a fruity but lethal rum punch served in a tall souvenir glass A few doors down discerning jazz Two after-dar- k VI -- fans line up at historic Preservation Hall a plain little room where aging black musicians play traditional New Orleans jazz Expect to stand because seating is limited No drinks are served Cover charge is $2 You can trace the history of jazz and Mardi Gras in museum displays at the Old US Mint on the edge of the French Quarter Artifacts include Louis Armstrong's first trumpet and gaudy Mardi Gras costumes Admission is $2 If Bourbon Street resembles a carnival midway Royal Street another pedestrian haven just a block away abounds with high-clas- s boutiques art galleries and antique stores But many French Quarter shops lean to Mardi Gras masks and assorted schlock Some of the best things to bring home are foods unique to New Orleans Gourmet shops and common souvenir emporia stock Louisiana hot sauces Creole seasonings beignet mix Hurricane mix gumbo mix exotic teas and coffees and all kinds of cookbooks In many shops you can help yourself to free samples of pralines the candy patties made from boiled brown sugar and chopped pecans Pralines can be purchased individually (about 80 cents) or in gift boxes A jar of praline ice cream topping also is a treat Many visitors eat their way through New Orleans rating restaurant food as the city's top draw You wish there could be 10 meals a day With Cajun cuisine now the rage travelers seek out the real thing at its source South Louisiana cuisine actually is a blend of robust Cajun cooking which originated in the countryside and the more subtle Creole fare developed by French and Spanish settlers and their black servants A magical mix of herbs and spices flavors most dishes Catches from the gulf of Mexico guarantee a fresh crop of seafood year-roun- d Shrimp and oysters appear in a variety of Creole favorites like shrimp Creole (in a spicy tomato sauce served over rice) and oysters Rockefeller (with cheese bread-crumb- s diced spinach) Menus also list catfish redfish flounder snapper even alligator Crawfish a Cajun staple resemble baby lobsters They're seasonal and come from Louisiana's bayous and freshwater streams You get a platter of boiled crawfish and squeeze the meat out of the shell Crawfish is a tomato-base- d etoufee stew served on rice Everyone wants to try a bowl of New Orleans gumbo a thick soup with lots of rice countless spices okra and a main ingredient like seafood l)4'Zicu37'c'Zcmoje7i'o'Z' b yellow rice with vegetables sausage shrimp chicken ham ' whatever the chef wants to toss in To top off your meal in local style order hot bread pudding in a whiskey or rum sauce The most famous French Creole restaurants are Antoine's Galatoire's and Brennan's None are cheap For great gumbo and other Creole dishes at lower prices try the Gumbo Shop For a hearty inexpensive lunch New Orleans offers more specialities I NINio -1-- 1-4-6 :'-- 7: 4- 1 I 84' 4 r7 ! ' ' 4 : ' - - 1 ---- - 4' - - i - --- -- 1 3 I 1 4' ' 4 1 :-- : - -- al 4 ''' : I 40 :- 000!1- - ' 1 - r'l - i - 1i1 - :' A ir'' 'A ' ' p'''' --- - -- - ''''::' ' i '' ' !5' ' f r 1 -- 4 k I - t - ' '' I 0 4 t 41 — I vet 1 I :- 3 1 4t I' 1 I1 1 4 it1 r1 '::o01 1 t 'I 4 ''' 4 s ' i L t 4 'I: r" 1 -t 'Y I 1 '' NI' ' ' ' I il— - - ''2--- s 1 1 144 11::4 "s' i ':: 1 1 4 4 - ': 1''ill 1 4 1 1i-- f i M-- ' '6: 411 - -' -- ' i 1 ' I- - 44m' 1 t ' 1 ''' e'rn'''' 4 1 ' I '4 1 4 x I ' ' - 1 I 't t - - - ' - - ‘e - - - -:- 1 4 7 41- food-serio- I '' - i 1TT I' - '' I - t - - 1i e' - r-- - ' ''' k k otro''''-- At e t 1 ::: 11 -- 44444440440atot - ' No-- -- ''''''''''''''''''''"42 - ""4 carriages take tourists down narrow streets of New Orleans' French Quarter Mule-draw- n to wow the taste buds The muffuletta is an Italian-styl- e sandwich of meats cheeses and olive salad on a and 1 and 3 pm daily For advice' maps and brochures drop by the Visitor Information Center 529 St Ann Street the New Orleans School of Cooking offers a crash course ($15) in Creole cooking In three hours you can learn to make gumbo jambalaya pralines and bread pudding For tourist literature contact the Greater New Orleans Tourist and Convention Commission 1520 Sugar Bowl Drive New Orleans LA 70112 thick seeded bun The Central Grocery an Italian food mart across from the French Market originated the muffuletta and still makes the best " Another mouthful is the a long French-brea- d i: hri-rnii be stuffed A-1catfish or ham and cheese then dressed with mayonnaise lettuce and tomato It's fun to sample Louisiana dishes at the fast food outlets in Jackson a Brewery You can get a spicy Cajun meat pie (turnover) or a crawfish pie Try the red beans and rice a Creole dish of simmered kidney beans seasoned with sausage and served on steamed rice A pie vendor sells miniature sweet potato and pecan pies A few floors below the fast food "po-boy- (504) iiig 566-501- RESTAURANTS Expensive' French Creole restaurants include': Antoine's famous for oysters Backe- - feller introduced there in 1889 and souffled potatoes The same family': has operated Antoine's since 1840 Brennan's Galatoire's and Arnaud's' are other temples of haute Creole dining Louisiana Kitchen the — restaurant of chef Paul Prudhomme offers innovative Cajun and some Creole dishes NIGHTLIFE Most bars are open' until 2 am or later on weekdays un- - til 4 or 5 on weekends Many impose a minimum or cover charge Popular Bourbon Street jazz spots include the Famous Door Frank's Jazz Alley and Lulu White's Mahogany Hall Pianists and vocal— ists perform nightly at Pat O'Brien's 1 kis16 BEFORE YOU GO Here are some helpful tips for planning a New Orleans vacation SIGHTSEEING Gray Line's r r city tour costs $16 harbor cruises on the steamboat Natchez are $950 dinnerjazz cruises $26 A bayou tour on the Jean Lafitte is $1250 Admisthree-hou- po-bo- y Two-hou- five-hou- c' r sion to the Gallier House BeauregardHouse and other historic -Keyes homes is $3 St Louis Cathedral offers free guided tours daily Free National Park Service walking tours from Dutch Alley begin at 10:30 am two-drin- k NINO : I I - n rt 1 1 I tiVOMSE3R311 ittlifFaa ci 11001 t 111)!(-0-- 1 WEEK-EN- D private campgrounds All meals provided 1 I GET-AWA7 Only One Class This Summer June 27th Enroll Now! lb 4 V ' tc- -- -) t47"r1 ai it : I voi - JUNE MORRIS 801487-973- 500 CoLygg ifItt1926: tVe i kolZg L1110121(I 0 (!Zrittil 4) p Per Person Proud Sponsor of: "ROUGwith 2 72 02 7 (J't 9' : IT" 1t' Ac1-44leivoil01- 5:15 pm ri pe kik !yiat IMI of a! 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