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Show H6 The Salt Lake Tribune TRAVEL Sunday, March 31, 1996 Is History Your Cup of Tea? Pay a Visit to Chestertown By Jill P. Capuzzo theriver or the farmlands in back. Chestertownhas two highlyrecommended restaurants, a surprise in such a small town (population 4,000). Philadelphia IT-RIDDER CHESTERTOWN Md — Ches tertown | to think of itself as the place were “the other tea par ty took place.” Six months after Zoston’s Tea Party, Chestertown residents staged a sympathy pro: test, dumping tea from England overboard into the Chester River On a spring weekend here years after that event, we nothing to protest — quite the contrary — so rather than dump our tea, we sippedit during anaf- Hi yh BBY The first night we tried the ae ‘ 2 Annapous “Washington MARYLAWD | Chesapeake’ Instead, it is a fully functioning 20th-centurycounty seat, ina per- fectly preserved 18th-century Seeking aplacewithout pretension or crowds for a romantic southeast of Chestertown and tertown, less than twohours south country road that spills out on a coveof the Chester River. weekend getaway. we found Ches of Philadelphia, tobe the perfect choice, We wereable totake a fas- cinating architectural tour of Georgian, Federal and Victorian homes, browse the compact, but sophisticated shopping district drive through magnificent coun- tryside takingin vast farmlands, a are running a six-room bed-and- We hadoriginally planned to merce’s walking tour, with direc- Innkeeper Sandy Strouse one of the most delicious dinners \of timeto relax large dish of homemade vanilla Following the Chamber of Com- tions available free in manyof the shops, we strolled along Water Street, admiring the massive brick buildings that look out on the Chester River. Glancing in the windows, and over gates into the back yards, we could sense how the residents still enjoyed the splendors of these magnificent time on their boat. Instead, they breakfast, a 42-slip marina and a full-service restaurant, and get on the water only when the inn is booked full in the summer and homesbuilt in the 1700s. stay at one of the several highly they have to moveto their house- boat to make wayforguests. I was particularly interested to notice that the town’s premier tor’s conference were enough to The rooms werelarge and comfortable, most looking out onto sale” sign posted outside. This recommended inns in Chestertown, but a wedding and a doc- Le LED Lit Zi4 residence, Widehall, had a “for actly what you want on such a tour. She told howto pick out homes built by the wealthiest merchants to serve as law offices today, with some lawyers descended from the original occupants. Along the waterfront, Fallaw pointed out where the Chestertown Tea Party took place in 1774, and wherelargesailing ves- sels and steamboats docked until the 1900s, One of them,shesaid, facing out required much more ber’s “Show Boat.” skill, and morebricks. Other highlights of Fallaw’s tour included the town’s center square, now a pleasant park with a massive cast-iron fountain de- signed by Philadelphia foundry- man Robert Wood, and once the site of a marketplace. A block farther down High Street, Monu- ment Park has a Civil War memorial thatreflects the divisions that war brought to this border town. The same family namesarelisted on both the Confederate and the Union sides of the The town’s “Lawyer's Row" (referred to on maps as Court Street), is a stellar example of a 19th-century county seat. The was the inspiration for Edna FerAfter departing from our tour group, we stopped in for after- noontea at the White Swan Tavern, a restored colonialinn filled with formal period pieces. Next, we madeour way to the campus of Washington College, one of the country's oldest liberal arts colleges. We had savedourbig dining experience for Saturday night, having heard great things about the gourmetrestaurantat the Imperi- al Hotel. Thefriendly but discreet Presenting The 1996 Best of Broadway LONDON THEATRE TOUR & PARIS High St., Chestertown, 410: 778-3828. Quiches, muffins, gourmet sandwiches and pizza|- staff showed us to the front c nertablein the intimate pink 4 flower-lined dining room. (This is a small enough to! that everyone in the hospital industry is aware when there i travelwriterin their midst — ¢ tour guide hadtipped off the ri taurantstaff, which in turn mt have spoken to our innkeept who, the following mornin asked us how our dinner was | the Imperial.) Thefood lived upto its reput tion; my appetizer of crawfii etouffee was a delicious mixtu; of fennel, peppers and crawfish a rich tomato-cheddar sauce wil cilantro, and my friend’s cra) cake dinner boasted two meat cakes artfully presented beside sculpted potato and vegetabi basket. We couldn'tresist the rei taurant’s ‘signature dessert,” delectable chocolate praline tri angle in Grand Marnier sauce. Vistafford registered in Bahamas On Cunards Vistafjord Southampton, England; Brest, France; Lisbon, $399 Portugal; Gibralter; Malaga, Spain; Barcelona, a Spain; Villefranche (for Nice & Monte Carlo); Sorrento, Italy; Messina, Sicily; 12634 Corfu, Greece and Venice, Italy! ' ne rr,raneaie 4 shows, 5 nights Paris Chunnel | transportation, breakfast dally. Personally escorted by Bob f BROADWAY IN THE FALL ia 6Boe famous Drovaway shows, Marriott Marquis Hotel, sightseeing, meals more. Personally escorted by Bob Ironstone Cafe, 236 Canno: St., Chestertown, 410-778 0188. Casual, seasonal food The Feast of Reason, 20: Cruise September 6 -20 rom 91150 ihatlon ofthe Opera Rr SiWarwick Regs Hotel Faberge ColletonDelong Mase, Sightseeing, personally escorted Elegantdining. European Renaissance air, 6 nights Marriott Marquis, 5 Top plays, sightseeing dally oan reacts THEATER/PHANTOM Where to Eat: Imperial Ho- tel’'s Restaurant (see above) Salt Lake Tribune 328-9803 June 11 7 days personally escorted by Bob Guymon,Incl. RT From $3478Includes: es 91150 be Sada Ts Ty Tawyh 5/23/96 Stay at the Sahara and experience what all the talk is about! Receive Sahara's "Book of Riches” valued at over $200. CHRISTMAS SHOPPING SPREE IN NEW YORK *850 | Nov 16-6 days TaeeantneaieCamcaattieeetyBos Garo. 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Stop by our Welcome Center for more details, EL aeTs CCCaeae ates UmermC) asnit6ee T tiny one-room buildings continue based on the brickwork and trim — the all-header pattern, where bricks were laid with their ends phat deat ov Se, The Imperial Hotel, 208 High St., Chestertown, 410- of the Chesapeake, 1-800-720-| 8788. lived here for 25 years, offered a tural knowledge about Chestertown, sprinkled with the kind of local gossip andopinionthat is ex- lished herein 1782. movedherea fewyears ago after sheandher husband, Chip, decid- historic tour. Fallaw, who has wealth of historical and architec- ca, drawing national and international cargo to these shores. Chestertown has been the county seat of Kent County since 1706, and Washington College was estab- wassetting over theriver. first constitution was framed in 1776. Silcox takes pridein her desserts, portofentry for Colonial Ameri- Wepulled into the gates in wildlife refuge, and a 1713 churchand graveyard, andenjoy The White Swan Tavern, 231 High St., Chestertown, 410- Chestertown was the designated front of the three-story white Vic- ed they wanted to spend more either of us had experiencedin a long time. Andwestill had plenty smoked cod and salmon cake appetizer also was preparednicely. Virginia Colonyand Philadelphia torian farmhousejust as the sun with continental breakfast 778-5000. Rooms: $125, suites $200-$300, with continental breakfast. were delicious. As a major stop between the nicelysituated at theend of a long Inn at Rolph’s Wharf, Rolph’s Wharf Road, Chestertown, 410-778-6389. Rooms: $85 dow shopping along broad, ele- ice cream with caramel sauce bookthe town solid. So we passed through townto reach the River Inn at Rolph’s Wharf, three miles Where to Stay: The River the Revolutionary War. Its owner, Thomas Smythe, was the head of Maryland's provisional govern- gant High Street, we joined guide MargeFallawto take the official and the creme caramel and the land's upper Eastern Shore Although rich in history, Chestertown is not frozeninits past Lodging can also be ar-! ranged through Gracious Inns) was thesite of much action during ment from 1774 until the state's $100-$150 with continental breakfast After several hours of meandering around the town and win- but the Gulf shrimpoverziti was somewhat bland. Owner Barbara ternoon respitein this beautiful quiet, historical town on Mary- the river at the foot of High Street 778-2300. Rooms: IF YOU GO Ironstone Cafe, a friendly, casual restaurant in a converted carriage house, featuring a seasonal menu. I tried the duck with roast garlic, juniper berry and red wine sauce. which was quite tasty. 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