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Show H4 TheSalt Lake Tribune TRAVEL Sunday, March 31, 1996 = Atlanta Will Be Hot Long After Olympic Flame Dies By Alan Solomon shoppingdistrict utilizinghistoric CHICAGO TRIBUNE ATLANTA — Hugh Sawyer was behind the gift-shop register | ‘IF YOU GO plains the city’s general con- gestion in the best of times: with downtown torn up by Olympics-related construction. at the Road to Tara Museum, try- ingvaliantly to stay awake. Mostly, he was succeeding. Down an aisle, the shop’s lone customer was staring at a shelf filled with books, most of them byor about Margaret Mitchell and about the industry her novel created Atop another shelf, and for sale, stood a Ken (yes, that Ken) doll dressed as Rhett Butler. There was no Scarlett Barbie. On other shelves were platesand little boxes and mugs, masks of Hat tie McDaniel, and wooden minia- tures of the big house and Twelve Oaks and gullible old Frank Kennedy’s store; on the walls were posters and portraits and other stuff. The museum itself, like the shop, is on the lower level of a former grand hotel, the Georgia Terrace, now an apartment building. Clark and Vivien once slept upstairs (though not together). Unlike the great plantation homes, the museum is pleasant but modest. The Japanese especially love it, said Sawyer. Love the movie, love the museum. “Some people speculateit’s be- cause Atlanta rose from the ashes, and so did Hiroshima,” said Sawyer. But you want Tara and The Old South in Atlanta? Frankly, my HICAGO TRIBUNE Accommodations: The main concentrations of full- service hotels are downtown and in the Buckhead neighbor- hood, about 15 minutes north of downtown. Other hotels, motor hotels and motels are scattered along the interstates. Expect no bargains during the Olympic period (the Games run July 19-Aug. 4) Getting Around: Atlantans still love their cars, which ex- it’s especially messy. But MARTA (Metropolitan Atlanta Rapid Transit Authority), the tling again with standard mall nects with Hartsfield Interna- (Johnny Rockets, Hooters), gift emporiums and pushcarts that bring light andlife to the restored Victorian streets. It's a place for a light meal, a quick beer (or beig- tourist points and also contional Airport ($1.50; weekly pass $12). More Information: Call the Atlanta Convention and and Visitors Bureau, 404-2226688; or the Metro Atlanta Chamber of Commerce, 880-9000. 404- first, that what makes Atlanta vice. The intent was preservation, but in their newness, the street looks like a movie set in the middle of theinner city. Ebenezer, though, is real. On Sunday mornings, it is crowded been a tourist town. Thecity that went with the wind primarily was acityof railroads and warehouses before the Civil War; rebuilt, it with locals and a few visitors who remained a place that stored and shipped things. The grace and come to share the music and joy and fellowship and the oratorical gifts of Rev. Joseph L. Roberts Jr., the senior pastor. His pulpit gentility wasleft to the coastalcities of Charleston and Savannah, andsoit is today. was King’s from 1960-68. Dr King’s mother was slain here in 1974. In the pews onthis particular but ordinary Sunday were King’s sister and daughter. The history here is more imme- diate. On Martin Luther King Jr. Drive, west of downtown, is a res- dears... taurant named Paschal’s, attachedto a motorinn. It lookslike Yes, said Roberts, an ex-Chicagoan out of Englewood High “People come here to see something like ‘Gone With the Wind,’ ” a standard motel coffee shop. It isn’t School, the Olympics will have an impact on Ebenezer. Sundays will said Melinda Sandkam, a hotel concierge. “They expect to see Scarlett everywhere. You're not going to find that in Atlanta.” Said a spokesman for the Atlan- ta Chamber of Commerce: “We send them to Madison.” So what's in Atlanta? Right now, lots of rubble. The Gamesof the XXVIth Olympiad are coming (July 19-Aug. 4), and the city’s center — where most of the running and jumping and swimming and dismounting will take place — is one massive construction zone. Gen. Sherman, who stopped marching to the sea long enough to torch the place in MDCCCLXIV, wasn’t this effident. “Entire blocks are gone,” said a shopkeeper, expressing both wonderand lament. City boostersinsistit all will be finished by the time they let the Gamesbegin, and most Atlantans seem to believeit, whichis fine. But is there Fun without the Games? Aside from convention duty (big business here), is there any reason to visit this Capital of the New South? have four services instead of two James Paschal, 71 now, still owns and runsit. He has seen so during the Games, and more than manythings. “We were in the middle of the civil rights movementfor a time,” with actual peach trees. “Every once in a while,” said a spokesman for the Chamber of Commerce, “they'd decide to planta few, because there should be some peachtrees on Peachtree Street. But they don't grow very well. Probablybecauseof thepol- things Coke — including a tasting room and a 22-minute retrospec- lution.” In fact, the streets are (or were) tive of commercials (‘'Gee, thanks, Mean Joe’ still brings goosebumps). Sure, it's Coke marketing a tribute to Coke’s marketing — but go, just for a taste of it Also downtownAtlanta are the State Capitol, a Hard Rock Cafe and a Planet Hollywood. CNN Centergives tours, and the Braves ball season begins; this is their last season in Atlanta-Fulton County Stadium, whichwill be replaced in 1997 by a rejiggered Few will mournits passing, expectedto be functional by summer and will begin staging out- lined with pine trees — to the founders, “pitch trees,” because of the resins derived from them. “Peachtree” is a corruption that stuck. Ty Cobb, therefore, should be forever known as the ‘Georgia Pitch.”” Back to the tour. In no particu- lar order: ™@ Peachtree Street (the main one). Atlanta’s spine. From downtown, it curves through Midtown, with sometheaters, the High Mu- seum of Art and Woodruff Arts Center, restaurants, discos of various persuasions and, primarily onside streets, restored Victorian residences; and into Buckhead, homeof mostof the city’s fancier restaurants, hotels, shopping and night spots, plus housing that The Ebenezer Baptist Church door concerts andfairs. That about does it for down- preserved as a shrine. Under the auspicesof the National Park Service. Today, it is no movie set. figure out the still-new MARTA rail system ($1.50 per ride; new nated after dark. @ Virginia-Highland, Little Five Points, Inman Park. For stations will be Olympics). those whothink of Atlanta as just Nearby is the Martin Luther housing the headquarters of the Southern Christian Leadership Conference,others. Also on Auburn is Ebenezer Baptist Church. The house in which Martin Luther King Jr. was born is down the street. It, and several other wD ! Naturally, noneof themis lined kids), visitors are treated to all are a reasonable walk once base- You're welcometo experienceit. an old fire station, the building | Prisoner of war) axe {camp (National) Historic Site) Peachtree Street. Peachtree its headquarters here, native Atlantans actually brag about this one, whichis a few steps from Underground. For $4.50 (less for the usual thousands of visitors where Dr. King preached will be remnants (some | Battle. Peachtree Circle. Peachtree Walk. You get theidea. born here and continues to have Centennial Park — now a mudhole near the CNN Center — is undergoing restoration) remain: stores, the Royal Peacock Club, King Jr. Center for Nonviolent Social Change, site of King’s tomb,a small but impressive collection of artifacts (including King’s Nobel PeacePrize), a restaurant andgift shop. downtown is Underground Atlanta. An amusement- South Carolina one Florida town Atlanta. For the rest, you'll need a car, a taxi orthe ability to ready by the ranges from apartments to certified opulence. Along the way: manyfine churches, someillumi- glass skyscrapers and Ralph Get a Map:Best betis a car — with the following caveat; Buy a map. Streets, winding and full of dead ends, are confusing to navigate. Dozens — literally — are variations of “‘Peachtree.”” J gf? grinsiviek - Atlantic Ooagn \is- Lauren suburbs, surprise: The town has funky little neighborhoods with funkylittle bars and theaters andrestaurants and craft shopsjust like everyone's favorite oldercities. Theseare threeofthe best. You will need directions, @ The Jimmy Carter Library and Museum ($4: kids 16 and under free) is no doubt a betterli brary than museum. Highlight is a lifesize reproduction of the Oval Office as it was during Carter's term in the White House, and the surrounding gardens are handsome. Best reason to go, maybe, is the view: The complex stands on the spot from which Sherman watched the burning of Atlanta, and even with the modern skyline. it’s easy to imaginethe scene. @ The Varsity Drive-In. An Atlantaclassic. Since 1928, this art- deco, bus station-size diner has been peddling chili dogs and on- ion rings (awesome)to all manner of locals right in the shadowof Georgia Tech’s football stadium According to general manager Joe Shalabi, the placesells an average of 17,000 hot dogs a day, sometimes as manyas 25,000. @ The Road to Tara Museum OK,it isn’t much — movieposters in various languages, nice material on Margaret Mitchell (includ- ing a film with reminiscences of those who knew her), photos and clippings from the film’s opening. reproductions of costumes from the movie and, in the background, music from the soundtrack But except for scraps (some material bought by Ted Turner that’s on display at the CNN Center; a window from the set, part of a Newnan, Ga., collection; an apartment building, being restored, where Mitchell wrote the book), there isn't muchelse around. Notin Atlanta. “People don't realize it was all filmed on a Hollywoodset,” said Sawyer,“and it was a figmentof her imagination.” With a little imagination, what's real in Atlanta can be more than rewarding. The answer is yes. For a few days, maybe. Add some time to ‘ wander the surrounding country- THOMAS TRAVEL 398.9803 side and a trip to Atlanta turns | into a treat. Si CEVA SHIELDS ESCORTED TOURS Parraect : Ea esa esmg EIULER PIU 45:Years Arranging Your Travel Needs Worldwide ISRAEL-THE HOLY LAND June 19-11 Glen Park escort Feelthe Bible sores come to fetheyare exp lecturer and veteran of 17 years as Israel's Land, Visit and! lear of 2 NIGHTS/3 DAYS a 12360 INCLUDES: 2 reek ala AT DISNEYLAND 3 DA’yee To TPRmete Reece iatelbahia Mot Vee T 4TH NIGHT FREE!! AND ALL ATTRACTIONS 12-20 Se eea a $2225 guide;St class hotels, most meals, deluxe motorcoach and comprehensive escorted by Monica Marshall. rary. A TREASURE CHEST OF ANCIENT HISTORY $2275 19 for 15 days tay Hants aca Blggren (enCANADIAN TRAIN Victoria, Vancouver, train into Canadian Rockies, Lake Louise, Jasper, train to Toronto, Niagara St. George, Las Vegas, San Diego,Los + [Angeles and Oakland Temples;also + [Old Town Mormon Battalion site, * [Reagan Pres. Library, Danish Solvang, Hearst Castle, steam train thru Giant Redwoods & Alcatraz. “EFX" show optional: 18-26. ‘ CALGARY STAMPEDE : [Fly to Edmonton, Mali, Jasper, Lake : FLouise, Banfi, Waterton Lakes, : [Buffalo Jump, Mounties in full funiform, & Calgary: July 5. CHURCH HISTORY HILL CUMORAH PAGEANT Choiceof 3 itineraries with excellent Church History instructors by the mostexperienced operator of Church History tours. 10, 12 or (including the Nauvoo Pageant) 15 days. 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Maybe because the drink was of cynical about that.” Not long after the Games are gone, gone too will be Ebenezer glory years, and i e | hometown | awe ie “a whodoesn't Onthe other hand, there’s The World of Coca-Cola, which looks will take weekday tours. “But I don't look for the Olympics to do anything about dealing with the social problems we need to deal with,” he said. “I really Baptist. A new, larger Ebenezer willrise on the cleared lot across thestreet. ° I don’t know any Atlantans who go there,” said an Atlantan It remains a meeting place for community. It also remains open | Carter s there) and something todo inthe heart of downtown Atlanta don’t put muchstockinit. I'msort the African-American American we =. e | Jimmy net — there's a Cafe du Monde version of the Olympic stadium under construction next door. to alll Just east of downtown is Auburn Avenue. “Sweet Auburn,” the neighborhoodwascalledinits a Stone Mounta ? Stone Mountain | toria's Secret), casual restaurants he said. ‘Dr. King and I were real good friends. He frequented the restaurant quite often, and several of the marches were planned here — the Selma march, the march on Washington a > —— a Alabama Tourists and kids seem to like special isn't exactly the standard tourist fodder. Atlanta has never sons shared byentertainment districts in other big-city downtowns —it had withered to near nothing Cleaned up and secure, it is bus- shops(the Gap, Eddie Bauer, Vic- houses nearby, have been restored by the National Park Ser- Real History: Understand that blossomedfor a timein the late '60s, a decade later — for rea- the hotel districts with key Atlanta: 96 Summer Olympics Warm Springs: FDR's ‘Little | White House —— ae lower-level downtown storefronts modernrail system, does link aa oer at —_________ Cal Your Trowel Agent Or 1-800-222-TREE Raves are per roam. per might bused 0 double occupancy. Rates and | |