| Show Food 2D Tuesday May 18 1999 Standard-Examine- r Top of Utah industry boasted success during the 1920s pint of Sperry 's Drifted Snow flour add a pinch of salt Add 1 tablespoonful Economy butter melted add gradually enough Uintah Dairy milk to make a dough sufficiently thick Arrange in layer tin from Richardson-Hun- t company and bake until slightly browned Split and spread with butter and arrange cherries between and on top at the same time grate enough coconut from Piggly Wiggly over the cherries to give an entirely white appearance” Tomatoes were the first items canned back in 1888 by Ogden's Utah Canning Company During the 1920s there were 22 canneries operating in Weber County an e high according to “Weber County is Worth Knowing” by William 1987) Woods Terry Cross Canning owned four Davis County factories Morgan boasted an independent pea cannery that was acquired by the California Packing Corporation in the 1920s wrote Terry The Morgan cannery’s operation on the Sabbath concerned leaders of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-da- y By VALERIE PHILLIPS staff r Sandanl-Exarxne- the early 1920s Weber County one of the most agriculturally counties in Utah to “History of Weber County” by Richard Roberts and Richard Sadler (Utah Historical Society In 1997) The Top of Utah boasted numerous d industries: dairies factories livestock canneries sugar-befruit orchards and flour milling Many of these were showcased in a w eekly recipe contest conducted by the Standard-Examinin the summer of 1922 Winning recipes submitted by readers were printed on the paper’s “Model Kitchen and Pantry Page” First prize was S5 The recipes prominently mentioned local products and stores like Piggly Wiggly The Cherry Shortcake reape goes like this: “Mash or chop fine 1 quart of cherries from Piggly Wiggly sweeten with plenty of Amalgamated sugar and let them stand for 12 hours Into a food-relate- et er all-tim- (self-publish- 1 Saints according to “Morgan Stake 1877-198by Roy Franas Speaking at an LDS stake conference in August 1912 visiting general authority (and future LDS Church president) David O McKay commented “I am sorry that the Lord has blessed Morgan with so many peas that people have to work and run the factories on Sunday” Peas and tomatoes were the main crops canned but other products included pork and beans lima beans asparagus ketchup tomato sauce cluli sauce jams and jellies and 30 kinds of pickles The Utah canneries reached their peak during World War 1 Ogden cannery production in 1918 totaled 30 million cans of milk and nearly 2 million cases of fruit and vegetables much of it going overseas because of the war according to “Ogden: Junction City” by Richard Roberts and Richard Sadler (American Historical Press 1985) More than 600 workers were hired at the seasonal peak in Weber County What happened to all of these canneries? Sadler and Roberts say that much of the business ended up in California Most of Utah’s fruit and vegetables came from small garden plots and family orchards California developed large-scal- e farms that devoted fields to a single crop that multiple-acr- e could be harvested with machinery After World War II it cost more to produce and can foods in Utah than to buy it at the stores The early 1920s may have been prosperous for industry but farmers suffered Agriculture prices dipped after World War I and never recovered Utah wheat fell from $350 per bushel in 1918 to 98 cents a bushel in 1921 according to "History of Weber County” Sugar manufacturing began around the turn of the century with Northern Utah farmers supplying the sugar beets In 1915 several manufacturers combined to become the Amalgamated Sugar Company according to “History of Weber County” In 1916 Utah ranked third in the nation in sugar production The sugar supplied the illiams Candy Company and like John other Ogden candy-makeScowcroft and John Dokos But the sugar industry suffered losses during the 1920s A white fly infestation cut back the acres of sugar beets harvested The increased use of electrical power stimulated the flour milling industry By 1919 Utah's milling industry centered in Ogden had become one of the 10 leading flour milling centers of the United States according to “History of Weber County” During World War I Ogden had also become a major center for shipping feeding and marketing livestock Two of g establishments the largest in Ogden were the American Packing and Provisions Company on 24th Street Dressed Meat and the Street 21st on Company Together they employed 208 people and slaughtered 18000 head of cattle 70000 hogs and 10000 sheep in 1929 according to “History of Weber Shupe-- rs meat-packin- Fox-Kell- County” Club From ID Just across the street from Union Station The Club was a stopping-of- f point for travelers and railroad workers Chris Pappas has kept the old safe where railroad workers lined up to cash their paychecks The old cash registers are still there too as is the original wooden bar cabinetry and neon lights LEAVING BEHIND THE OLD DAYS: Owner of The Club Deli Chris Pappas (reflected in mirror) wants to move on from the “speakeasy” image his restaurant’s site has although some of the diner’s sandwiches have names Prohibition problems George Pappas was in the bar business during an interesting time: Prohibition On Jan 16 1920 the 18 th Amendment went into effect forbidding the manufacture sale or transport of any intoxicating liquor (Perhaps that’s why the Ogden City Directory of 1925 lists George Pappas as proprietor of the “US Soft Drink Parlor” rather than a tavern) Reformers of the early 900s thought progress and even patriotism were on the side of the 8th Amendment During World were War I identified with the German Kaiser Women’s rights supporters campaigned for the home and family and against the saloon The Standard-Examine- r during the 1920s featured many ads for bubbling soda and root Pepsi-Col- a beer Coca-Col- a Canada Dry Ginger Ale and other “refreshing” nonalcoholic drinks But the law didn’t stop everyone from drinking Instead it resulted in bootlegging (selling liquor illegally) corruption in law enforcement and political offices and mob wars in big cities By 1932 44678 were jailed for illegal liquor sales and President Herbert Hoover declared that trying to enforce the law was futile On Dec 5 1933 the law was repealed with Utah the 36th state to vote for the repeal A small buzzer switch near the front window in The Gub Deli’s 1 1 beer-drinke- rs Recipes From ID Cream Loaf Cake 12 cup 1 Mountain Brand Lard cup Amalco beet sugar Photo courtesy of Chns Pappas Chris Pappas’ grandfather George owned the 1 920s bar where The Club Deli now stands on Histone 25th Street HEYDAY LEADER: dining room is a reminder of those days when the business operated as a speakeasy “When the ‘Feds’ were coming someone hit this buzzer to warn everyone to clear out the booze” explained Chris Pappas The row of buildings had basements that were connected by hidden doors “Booze could be shuffled from building to building to building and the Feds couldn’t find it” Chris Pappas said An honorable man ' Chris Pappas views his grandfather’s exploits in historical context Speakeasies were common during that era (And it was only a few decades earlier that some of Ogden’s most prominent Mormons were in trouble for engaging in another “criminal” activity: polygamy) Chris Pappas said he’s proud of his grandfather’s legacy “His word was his honor and he was generous to a fault” he said “Since we’ve opened the deli you don't know how many people have come down here and told me stories of how my White grape juice makes a pretty punch and the slices of orange show to better advantage Any fruit juice left from canned fruit may be used in punch Tea is a great improvement to punch and green tea gives the best flavor Bertha 2 economy eggs 1 teaspoon Blue Pine lemon 12 cup I cup butter 1 8 teaspoons baking powder from Piggly Wiggly Cream shortening well add 2 eggs cup sugar 12 teaspoon 12 cup milk 1 34 vanilla cups flour 2 teaspoons baking powder Work butter and sugar together until creamy Add n eggs and beat thoroughly Add vanilla Sift the flour with the baking powder add to the butter and sugar mixture alternately with the milk - first a little milk then a little flour until all are used muffin Bake in or patty tins 20 minutes in a moderate oven Will make 18 or well-beate- well-butter- Fruit Punch 1 cup strong tea 2 cups sugar and 1 cup water boiled together 1 minute Juice of 3 oranges 1 to 2 cups chopped fresh mint juice of 3 lemons can grated pineapple 1 quart grape juice or loganberry juice 4 bottles ginger ale Mix the tea sugar fruit juices and mint together and allow to stand hour Pour over ice in punch bowl add loganberry or grape juice and ginger ale Sliced oranges or any berries may be added This will serve 20 or 30 people one glass each 1 1 K 20 A good rule to follow for baking is this: During the first quarter of the time the mixture should continue to rise and begin to brown The remainder of time the cake finishes baking This last half of the time allowed is the most critical Up to that time the cake may be turned or moved without danger of falling Bertha “Bootlegger’s Best” “The Mobster” and the“AI Capone" KORTDUCE Standard-Examne- grandpa helped them out when they were struggling They would find money left in their milk box things like that Some of the businesses that are still thriving today he helped them get their start” Once the railroad industry began fading 25th Street lost its luster and the Pappas family sold some of the property Buildings like The Gub and The Gift House next door were leased “The economy was so bad you would be lucky to find somebody to rent your building” Chris Pappas said Chris’ father George Jr went into the construction business Chris Pappas a pilot for an air freight company approached his father about leasing the building E Sluipleigh For omelets select large eggs allowing one egg for each person and one tablespoon liquid for each egg Keep an omelet pan especially for omelets and see that it is kept clean and smooth A frying pan may be used in place of omelet pan 4 eggs Separate yolks from whites To yolks add salt pepper and hot water and beat until thick Beat whites and lemon-colore- d until stiff cutting and folding them into first mixture until they have taken up mixture Heat omelet pan and butter sides and bottom Turn in mixture spread evenly place on range where it will cook slowly occasionally turning the pan so that omelet may brown evenly When well “puffed” and delicately browned underneath place pan on center grate of oven to finish cooking the top The omelet is cooked if it is firm to the touch when pressed by the finger If it clings to the finger like the beaten white of egg it needs longer cooking Fold and turn on hot platter and pour around one and one-hacups thin white sauce Milk is sometimes used in place of hot water but hot water makes a more tender omelet A few grains baking powder are used by some cooks to hold up an omelet lf "Boston i when The Gub’s last tenants left about a year ago He thought the time was finally right to remodel it into a deli and imported food shop “A lot of people have gone broke here trying to revitalize 25th Street” he said “It wasn’t worth it to try to renovate the buildings here up until mavbe about a year ago” The new Pappas business The deli has been open nine months and was profitable after four months Chris Pappas says with a tinge of pride in his voice The menu offers a variety of sandwiches soups and salads and Jamie Pappas bakes up pans of baklava A small barrel sits on the wall facing the bar In earlier times it Cooking-Scho- Cookbook " and Italian seasoning is one of the most popular he said was customary that men could pitch silver dollars at the barrel If the dollar went in the man won a night’s stay at the Roosevelt Hotel next door If it didn’t go in chances were it fell behind the woodwork of the bar “Behind there it’s probably a foot thick with silver dollars” Pappas said “But you’d have to take apart all the woodwork to get back there” Jamie and Chris have kept the tradition patrons now pitch quarters for a free latte Although Chris Pappas wants to break the speakeasy image some of his sandwiches sport names from that era: “Bootlegger’s Best” and “The Mobster” The “A1 Capone” which has prosciutto boursin cheese feta tomato-bas- il spread In about a month Chris and Jamie Pappas intend to begin serving breakfast sandwiches crepes and waffles They will also offer ice cream and gelato Italian ice cream That’s just a small step in the direction the two want to take In the back courtyard they want to create an open-ai- r farmer’s market and install a patio Chris hopes these efforts will give people a reason to come to Historic 25 th Street “I’m investing my money and time so the people will come down here to have fun and they don’t have to go to a bar” i Glossary of ’20s terms Omelets 12 teaspoon salt Few grains pepper 4 tablespoons hot water 1 tablespoon butter I 12 cups thin vt liite sauce (your recipe for flour milk and butter mixture) Small Cakes Wiggly sugar slowly add beaten yolks of eggs flavoring and slowly add the milk Sift flour cornstarch and baking powder together and add fold in eggs beaten stiff Bake in loaf pans from Richardson-Hunt’- s and in an electric oven from The Lighthouse Shapleigh u ext rad Uintah milk I cup Sperry's Drifted Snow flour 12 cup cornstarch from Piggly E like Carnation Pralines cup brown sugar 2 cups white sugar 3 tablespoons com syrup 34 cup Carnation Milk diluted 12 cup water 112 cups nuts with 1 tablespoon maple sugar or tmpleine Boil together all ingredients (except nuts and flavoring) When soft ball is formed in cold water remove from fire add flavoring place pan in cold water without shaking until hand can be held against bottom of pan without discomfort add nuts Beat with slotted wooden spoon when stiff drop from spoon on buttered sheet roaring there was talking going on the ’20s with expressions that still flavor our language today: Applesauce: A derogative term nonsense baloney Berries: Wonderful (same as “bee’s knees”) Baloney: A derogative term nonsense applesauce Big Cheese: Important person Besides mining We're is proud to serve up the best in Utah dining and entertainment with the Top of Utah Dining & Entertainment Guide This is a prime opportunity for your business to display its entertainment features (tell them about your live music dancing theater and productions etc) or fabulous food menus (a great place to list Milk diluted teaspoon vanilla Melt butter and shaved chocolate in saucepan add sugar com syrup and diluted Carnation Cook until mixture forms a soft ball in cold water or reaches a temperature of 235 degrees stirring occasionally to prevent sticking Remove from fire and add vanilla When cool beat until creamy and mold on buttered plate f ntertainment GZJX JO E 2 tablespoons butter 2 squares bitter chocolate 3 cups sugar 2 tablespoons com syrup 1 Source: "The Fabulous Century" e Books 1987) (Time-Lif- MS 1999 TOP OF UTAH Carnation Fudge 12 cup Carnation with 12 cup water A ladies’ man Banana oil: A derogative term nonsense Giggle water Alcoholic drink Hooch: Bootleg liquor Raspberry: A loud derisive noise from the audience (same as “Bronx cheer”) Speakeasy: A saloon selling bootleg whiskey Cake-eate- n your specialty items and special pricing) Standard-Examine- H r fV W't'00 HI ublLhed1 Friday Ju" n: 1m Space and copy deadline is Tuesday May 25 1999 v |
