| Show from from prom the nome rome journal extracts extract from notes of travel ly by the marquis de custine JL A frenc frenchman hman of high rank ghost gorn lorn passion it is to travel nothing anything can be more melancholy than the aspect of nature in the approach to st petersburg As you yon advance vp u the guir guli the flat marshes of ingria terminate in a little wavering line drawn between the sky and the sea this line Is russia it presents the appearance of a wet lowland lowland with here and there a few birch trees thinly scattered mattered the landscape Is vold void of objects at d colors has lias no bounds and yet no sublimity it has just light enough to be visible the grey mossy morby earth well accords fth with ith the pale un suri which illumines ity it not from overhead overheads but from near the horizon or almost indeed from below si so acute Is the angle which the oblique rays form with tha the surface of this soil moll in russia the finer fined days have a bluish dimness it if the nights are marked by a clearness which sur surprises surprise the days are clothed with an obscurity which maddens saddens oron Cron cronstedt stadt with its forest of masts maste its substructures and nd its ita iam fam ramparts parts of gra granite nitey finely break breaks the monotonous reveries of the pilgrim who iss isy Is like me seeking for imagery in this dreary land I 1 have never seen in the approaches pro aches to any other great city a landscaped landscaped mrian choly as the banks of the neva the campagna of rome rem Is a desert deserts but what picturesque objects object sy what past a associations ciati ons what light lights what firey fires nire fire what poetry it if I 1 might be allowed the expression expressions I 1 would say says what passion aal animates that religious religions land landl to reach st petersburg you must pass a desert of water framed in a desert of peat earth arth sea shore shores and sky are all blended into one mirror but so dully dull duil so tarnish tarnished that it reflects nothing the cene finns among whom the ru russians fixed their new capital are of origin they are still alidort pa gans tana suitable inhabitants of the soil of petersburg it was only in that an ukase appear appeared edy commanding their priests priest to add a daml I 1 name to the saints saint name riven given to their children in baptism amis this race Is almost without physiognomy the middle of the tho face Is flattened to a degree that renders it deformed the men though ugly and dirty are said paid to be throng which howe however very verp does not prevent their being poor although the natives of the territory they are seldom boen seen in petersburg except upon market days they inhabit the swamps and slightly elevated granite than of tha the envIron environs ss of the custom customhouse house honse officers he lie says bays soch goch ah such xh number numbers sp acting under at influence which la Is not in themselves in a manner resembling the e wheelwork wheel work of i a clock dock are called me men n in russia the sight of these voluntary automata inspires iris tris lAres me with a kind ct of fear there Is 1 something supernatural in an individual reduced to the tha state of a mere machine if it in lands where the mechanical arts nourish flourish wood and metal seem endowed with frith human powers under despotIsm Ps hovnan beings seem stem m to become as instruments of wood W we ask our what can become of their superfluity of thought arid nd we feel III ili at east easa at the idea of the influence that must have been exerted on intellectual creatures before they could coad have been reduced reduced to mere thing things in russia 1 I pity the human beings as in england I 1 feared the machines in the latter country the creations of man lack nothing but the gift of speech here fiere the gitt gift of speech t la a thing superfluous to the th creatures of the state these mactino with the tha of a souls oui are however marvellously polite it Is easy to see pee they havo bavo been trained to OvI civility lity as ta to the management manas manae ement of arms anna from their thein cradle but oi of what value are the lorms of urbanity when their origin savors favors of am doo the free tree win of man Is the consecration that on can lone alone impart a worth or a meaning to human actions the tower power of choosing a master can alone give a value to fidelity and since in russia an Infer inter inferior lor chooses nathl nothing ng all ati U that he be says and dogs dois doe s la Is worthless and sa s1 the marquis thus sketched sketches his accommodations at the alist first hotel bold of st petersburg cafter after several parleys I 1 was at length established on tue the second floor in suffocating beating apartments consisting of an entree a salon and a bedchamber bed chamber the whole without or window blind blinds though there Is 1 a sun son for treny twenty two hours daily dail above the horizon the oblique rays of which penetrate more fully fate into the houses than the dun suu sun sun bun of africa which falls direct upon the roofs the ain air ir of this lodging resembles that of a limekiln choked with arst and charged with exhalations exha lations of ins acts mingled with musk forming altogether an atmosphere that Is c scarcely was I 1 installed ins Ina tailed la in this thia abode than the fatigue of the night having got the better of my curiosity which usually impels ma me to sally bally forth and lose masolf in a large I 1 unknown city I 1 lay down in a cloak on an ammense leather soras sofa and slept profoundly during three ruti luti rutes rates tat at the end of that time I 1 woke in a ivr and on outing my eyes upon the cloak what a right awaited hema hem a brown but living marq mint be called by 17 thrle proper name I 1 was covered I 1 was devoured with bugs buss russia Is li in this respect riot pot a whit interior inferior to spain but in the south we can both console and secure ourselves in the open air here blare we must r main imprisoned enem yand the war wars wara Is consequent N in re a sam saw alne I 1 began throwing oft off my lay clothes and r c billins illins for help what a prospect for the this 0 aitha u ht made me 17 y out more morn ore ora lustily A russian waiter mip wip an ared I 1 made bilm understand ind that I 1 wished to se los ils bs jos master the a ieler teler kept ki pt mp me galung a iong ions time and when be he at len ien ih th did colne wine and was anif of the nature of my nin uin mh nih hp be h b gan ran to ixil isu bg h and soon roon left the th roem room tell te B in n hii hit I 1 should accustomed to ity its it for that it was visa the h same sia sla every who ahra a in n petersburg if he e first ad wised aey oes nat nai ingver devur to 10 seat myself en on a russi russian am a b aum adv aust the who always carry about with them mons glona oj of i ns wets ts sleep or on these articles of furn turn furniture iture to lil ill il m lie he further stated that the verada vernur vera vern aa bowd riol not 1 wn w m it I 1 kept at a proper distance from tle tte fur tur noun lri w willai willal ucb they bad abode T uina nina of 0 petersburg resemble rese nale pAle caravan sers etera la Is simply housed but hut not nok wailed waited upon uras unas by his yn servants sar gar vanta mine being ignorant of the russian bussian sian language is not only to me imet iret troublesome fir tir I 1 have to meke teke carm care of him as well as cillo however trever arld bl italka quickness quietness soon boon discovered in otie olk OIK of the tha dark corridors 0 ot wana waited asat ganna virom coulon toulon a footman out oat of place who iio ito speaks german and whom the keeper 0 of the hotel chotei recommended I 1 engaged him and told him of my distress jie ile immediately red for me a light iron tron bedstead the mattress mattren of which I 1 had stuffed with the freshest straw that could be obtained and caused the four feet to be placed in as many jars of water in the middle of the chamber chambers from whence I 1 also directed the furniture to be removed thus prepared for the night nights I 1 dressed dress edy and attended by the footman whom I 1 had desired to forbear directing me I 1 issued from my a palace without and an ornamented namen ted stable within in describing his first impressions of the lower classes class esi esp he remarks markt re the men of pure sla Sli races racey race brought from the interior by cherich the rich llo lio nobles blesy biety who either retain them in their service or permit them for a certain period to carry on various trades in the city are remarkable for their fair hair their rosy complexions completions complex lonsy ions lons and yet more for their perfect profiles which equal those of grecian slature statues stat slat nee uee their eyes have hare the oval asiatic shape with the coloring of the north they are generally of a light blue and unite a singular expression of gentleness grace graces ana and cunning this expression always restless gives to the iris those changing hues which vary from the green of the serpent and the grey of the caty city cat to the black of the gazelles gazelle though the ground color till still remains blue the mouth mouthy adorned with a golden and silky moustache mou staches Is beautifully formed and the teeth have a brilliant whiteness that lights up the whole countenance they are sometimes sharp and pointed ahen when they resemble those of the tiger but more commonly their shape Is perfectly regular the costume of these men Is always original it consists either of the greek tunic with a lively colored girdle the persian robey robe or the short russian pelisse lined with sheepskin th the wool of which Is turned outwards or inwards inward according to 1 the season g the females of the lower orders are less lets handsome but few are met in the lie streets and those few present few a attractions they appear degraded and fled it 1 11 1 a singular facts tact fact that the mn take paint pains with their dress i and the women neglect it this Is perhaps owing to the former beins being attached by service to the houses of the po pobles liles the latter hive hire a clumsy gait they weir wear heavy boots which deform the foot toot their figures are without e elegance le gance and their completions complexions complex ions baite those of the men lose all freshness and land clearness even valle wh Bethey they are yet young their gittli russian coats short and open before are tire with fur which Is almost always at ways hang hanc ing in razs rass this costume co would be pretty if it was less shabby aj and if it the effect ws was not generally spoilt bt deformity or revolting dirtiness of person the national natonia nat onal onil headdress head dress of the rusian Rustan rusan women Is handsome ands omey het bet it hu his become rates rarey rare bing now only I 1 am ara told by nurses an find by the ladies ladles of the court on days ot of ceremony it it Is a of pasteboard tower gut gilt embroidered tind and much widened at the top i c among all the women of the louir orders wl wita have hitherto met in the streets not a tingle one has his fi struck truck me as possessing beauty and the great greatt r amon among g them thern are ugly and arty dirty to a dree degree that 1 Is slee sive astonishment m en 1 Is excited ltd by the rebec recollection tion that they are arm a re the wives wires and mothers of men with f features tatt so fine and regular rears profiles BO so perfectly gru Gre grecian clany ciany lind nd furnin so 0 elegant and supple as those seen among even the low cst cut e P t classes of the nation there ate we nowhere iad men mea so lie handsome hind hinda some ome nor old women fo hideous mm ruila nuila I 1 have ibare pen seen cen f rew few e of the dalma wives one of the th s 0 of f petersburg Is that the of dwoinen women la in proportion is to that of the men Is less than la in other ca capital cahhal phal paal I 1 am aai assure assured d that the former do not at the form mere than a third of the total population of the city scarcity carsen them to be only too highly ther they a attract tract so eager an attention ioa loa that there are few who rish risk thim themselves selves alone after a certain hour tn in the streets of the less populous quarters in the thie capital of 0 a ct entry altogether military mii mil wary waty and among a popie people addicted iddle ted aft W this appears tok toi me wall it fradd forn dd at til 01 ill times tines the wamen show shor themselves leks lens in punic than the trench it ft Is not nc ne amary to 0 o far back to tind fled the time when they passed their lives ilves like nire the corrien of asta asia tha rc reserve cerve the jr m em bradee of which stai stal all linger like uke so 0 o many 0 ther other russian the origin onla of the people it cw trib to the dalness of the streets and the retes fetes fetesoff of |
