OCR Text |
Show DA Wtdnesday, November 3, 2004 It Y HERALD D3 STYLE BRIEFS bTHLEPl!1fTiFi BEAUTY, HOME AND FASHION New from Armani AT YOUR FINGERTIPS I FALL if : Giorgio Armani highlighted his SpringSummer 2005 ' collection on Oct 26 at Pier 54 in New York. It was Armani's first show in the U.S. in several years. 8 s The newest crop of fragranoHrfdcuses on flowery notes, ranging from the ever popular jasmine to rare orchids, and fruit smells, including grapefruit and apple. But if you're hungry for a change, Carolina Herrera's 212 Sexy has a cotton candy note and DKNY's Be Delicious has a touch of cucumber essence. Max Mara does the the thing with hints of ginger and sugar cane. Prada Fragrance comes in a box adorned with the company's fabric fashion label and YSL's Cinema mimics an Oscar with its shapely gold flacoa Here's a sampling of the fall fragrances: sweetdicy pour Femme pour Homme I Blush by Marc Jacobs reinterprets the scent of jasmine by using a rare form of the flower called star jasmine. Jacobs says he was inspired by a flower in his Paris garden. I Prada Fragrance is an amber fragrance with four different "dimensions." "Pure" is represented by "addictive" is embodied patchouli, "precious" is labdanum resin (a warm scent from cistus species plants from the Mediterranean) and "profound" is benzoin (a tree resin with a vanillalike scent). d I DKNY's Be Delicious is an floral fragrance that, like all Donna Karan products, aims to cele-- . brate New York City. The scent mixes cucuniber, grapefruft, magnolia, tuberose, white muguet (what the French call lily of the valley), rose and violet, with a base of blonde woods and white amber. I Cinema comes in a sculpted metal flacon with a subtle pattern of letters almost like a code that spells out Yves Saint Laurent. The fragrance inside is dominated by almond tree blossom, amaryllis and amber , I Max Mara made its reputation in fashion with a style described as "practical glamour." It looks to do the same with its first fragrance, which opens with the scents of ginger, sap and lemon, has a heart of orchid, white lily and magnolia, and a base of musk, exotic woods and sugar cane. I Christian Dior Parfums introduces Pure Poison, an updated verscent. sion of its classic white-flowThe top notes include orange and bergamot, middle notes of orange flower, jasmine and gardenia and a base of sandalwood, white amber and musk. I Carolina Herrera's 212 Sexy boasts cotton candy as the "fun" element of the perfume's heart. The top of the fragrance is mandarin, bergamot and rose pepper, and the base is sandalwood, white musk and vanilla. I Lulu Guinness put a romantic, floral perfume into a smaller version of clutch pursher signature es decorated with pearls. The quirky For men, woody scents dominate the choices but there are some florals, too, including rose and muguet: I Burberry Brit for Men is a woody e combinafragrance with a tion of green mandarin and bergamot, together with ginger and cardamom. The heart features rose, nutmeg and cedarwood with a base of oriental woods, gray musk and tonka bean. , I Kenzo Air is supposed to have a slight sense of familiarity as though it's arousing memories from childhood. The scent is a composition of star anise, vetiver and amber woods. ' I Lauder Beyond Paradise Men features several accords developed as part of the Eden Project, a facility in Cornwall, England, that replicates species of plants and flowers and their native growing conditions. Some of the scents include "Eden's mist," a fresh, humid scent typically apple-infuse- er d V ft i 9 , - Vt o, i .. . V- . J, ,. M i: ( Af - - J 1 found in the air in Amazonia, West Africa and Malaysia, and "golden melaleuca bark," which is indigenous to Indonesia and has a the smell of suede. I Kenneth Cole's Reaction clothing collection is inspired by technology, music and pop culture, and the new fragrance of the same name follows that formula. The top is a note of lime and green apple, and the middle notes include muguet and watermelon. The dry down features patchouli, musk and sandalwood. I Salvatore Ferragamo's Incanto the pour Homme has an Italian bent notes include Sicilian bigarade (which has an orangelike scent) and Tuscan cypress. Cther notes that develop the woody fragrance include bamboo leaf, cedarwood and vetiver. I Donald Trump, The Fragrance has a formula that aims to leave three impressions confidence, success and character. Confidence is expressed through citrus and mint notes, success with green and peppery notes, and character through exotic woody top-not- d, V smells I Davidoff Cool Water Deeper is accessories designer calls it Put On Your Pearls Girls perfume. I GF Ferre Lei falls into the olf active family of "floral fruity." It includes magnolia and lily of the valley, and amyris and cedarwood. A complementary men's scent, GF Ferre Lei is categorized as a "woody spicy aromatic," with a base that include coriander, nutmeg and heliotrope. I Pur Jil Sander touts itself as a "scent for everyday," with its blend of jasmine, cyclamen, green sap, white musk and ambrette seed. I Paco Rabanne Pour Elle is a sensual floral, with top notes of white pepper, mandarin and white freesia; middle notes of jasmine, absolute rose, and karo karounde; and base notes of amber, peach and massoia wood. I Sarawak is a limited edition fragrance from Crabtree & Evelyn with the scents of grapefruit, lime and green bamboo blended with rice flower, grounding ginger and a woodier version tlian the original Davidoff Cool Water. Cactus sap provides a subtle aquatic overtone with a heart that features clary sage and cedar needles. I Hummer gets its fresh accord through a blend of peppercorn, cardamom and green foliage notes, while its warm accord comes from i the scents of leather, patchouli, amber and sandalwood. I The Art of Shaving launches the Sandalwood aromatherapy-baseEau de Toilette. The top note is eucalyptus, the heart is jasmine and fir needle, and the base is sandalwood, myrrh, patchouli and vanilla. d Washington politicos turn to custom tailoring Maureen Fan THl WASHINGTON POST best-dresse- and Ken Duberstein, mer chief of staff for President Ronald room Reagan, swept into a second-floo-r at the Jefferson Hotel, resplendent in monogrammed cuffs and Hermes tie, looking for the perfect suit. The search for this exquisite instrument began discreetly off an elevator reached through the hotel's restaurant. Upstairs, in less than a half hour, Duberhandmade cusstein ordered a hand-cu- t, tom suit from Simon Cundey, managing director of Henry Poole & Co., one of the founding tailors on London's Savile Row. Cundey tended to 15 customers over two days, almost all based on references or word of mouth. Most were lawyers, f oreign diplomats and other accomplished menjn middle age who recently slipped into the hotel for timed appointments of no rnore than 40 minutes, like a low-keWghpowered lunch at a private dub. If Washington's uniform is the suit,, the ultimate expression of power is the hand-cut- , handsewn, custom suit. Among Washington aristocracy, few admit publicly to the extravagance. But they're flattered when peers notice a perfect fit, a smooth fine, a good fabric, and they make recommendations confidently, fike introducing a friend to a special fraternity. It's a club whose members include World Bank President James Wolf and Secretary of Commerce Donald Evans, former NASA administrator Daniel Goldin and Arthur Levitt, former chairman of the Securities and Ex-y i change CtommissiorL of custom In the competitive world tailoring, in which tailors charge $2,500 and more and get snippy about their for- uber-lobbyi- st -- ( Two senators, Gordon Smith, and Orrin Hatch, routinely d lists in Washlng-tonia- n make the magazine. The week before Henry Poole & Co. was ensconced in tfie Jefferson Hotel, George Geverley Bespoke Shoemakers booked a room, catering to customers willing to sit through two dozen measurements for a custom leather shoe. It was Ramstad who turned lobbyist Jeff Kimbell on to Baytok, whose suits start at $2,500. "I've got a couple of clients in Jim's district, and he always looks sharp," said Kimbell, who complimented Ramstad on one of his suits and said the congressman then recommended its maker. Kimbell is sold on bespoke suits because they last. Others are hooked by ' the ease of shopping for a new suit after the initial fittings are done. Bespoke comes from bespoken, and it means "to speak about your clothes," said Cundey, of Henry Poole & Co. It and handmade means a suit is hand-cu- t on the premises. A paper pattern is made for each individual. Machine stitching is kept to a minimum. suits, sewn by machine in a factory after a tailor takes a customer's measurements, dont travel well, Kimbell said. "I Ve tried Hong suits. I gave up on that," Kimbell, 33, said. "IVe sort of made the transition from the Brooks Brothers days of my twenties. "The achievement is to feel fike you're not Wearing a suit," Cundey said. "We give you a small armhole so when you reach up, the collar doesn't rise. We balance you up. If you have big hips and we try to give you are more of a shoulder, so you're more hourglass shaped.", en-so- , KATHERINE FREYWashington Simon Cundey of Henry Poole & Co. fits U.S. Ambassador Randall Tobias custom suit at the Jefferson Hotel i ' competitors, the stereotype of the rumpled politician seems to have been folded up and stuffed in the back of a closet. John B. Henry, entrepreneur and chief executive of an online marketplace for legal work, uses a Georgetown tailor who goes by one name, fike Madonna or Cher. "Baytok's an artist, a sculptor. He's just using doth as his medium," Henry said. "The suits just look better they just absolutely hang' on you. Washingtonians are quick to claim their sartorial conservatism. This isn't Wafl Street. No Washingtonians made the final cut this year for Esquire magazine's Best Dressed Men in the World . Post for a (politicos who did make it included San Francisco Mayor Gavin Newsom and the Afghanistan president and fashion plate, Hamid Karzaf). Politicians aren't the best source of personal style, said Esquire's fashion editor, Nick Sullivaa "I get the feeling that in the corridors of power, the image- mongers are saying, 'Don't wear that tie 5 get noticed,'" Sullivan said. Yet ask around on the HilL "Who's the member of Congress?" and the names quickly surface: David Dreier, best-dresse- d JimRamstacLR-Minn.i- n Kong-tailore- d pear-shape- in the the House. John Warner, Senate, or perhaps Jon Corzine, D-- J. N .1 Made-to-measu- . Associated Press photos |