Show Hips Are Coming I II I Back in New Styles tyles ny fly r United Written n for the NEW YORK Nov 1 2 25 FIfth 25 Fifth avenues avenue's avenues avenue's aye aye- ave ave- nue's flues showing of real midwinter dresses is playing some tricks on the straight line Une chemise dress A glimpse at the windows all bedecked with rich gowns for hurly burly winter weather gives a strong hint that by springtide springtide spring spring- tide the dresses Will wUl be fuller and a a. wee bouffant It is the uptown houses which ex exploit exploit ex- ex original models and imported creations that are ringing the knell lnell of the string bean dress They are following the example of Paris which has swung away from the straight line Une dress for fOI so se long that It is about ready to swing back to it It Americas America's s swerve from Iron a universally becoming type of or ordress I Idress dress will be more gradual however The couturiers are usIng all their cleverness to merely fleck the gowns cowns owns with some phase of the new trend Thus one of ot the leading gown houses of America is showing a collection collection col co- col- col lection of ot rich and velvets whose main deviation from the lines of ot the chemise dress is found in the irregular hem line Une which curves upward up up- upward ward d at tt the front of t the gown o The h t a ofa g hem continues Into a wide ld contrasting contrast contrast- tr trin ing in- in facing Thus a model of ot cochin brown velvet continues its up and down hem line Into a wide front bandIng bandIng banding band- band Ing ing- of marigold mangold Colored brocaded satin This upward sweeping front line Une Is found In many of the late winter models and gives promise of ot a toire or empire line before long iong as a high waistline seems to blend best with this mounting hem Other houses are sponsoring a a. new silhouette by inserting folds fods at the sides Rich metallic brocades or or satins are combined in this way with the main fabric of velvet duvet n or ora ora ora a heavy woe wool I velour This exploitation of the hips is very contrary to the prevaIling prevailing pre pro straight line mode Other hints of a coming seasons season's are given by horizontal pin tucks at the I hips hip or fan shaped of ot contrast contrasting con- con ing lighter fabrics Panels at the tho sides are also aiso being used This fad is especially noted in black and white costumes One house is showing an importation of ot wide wale paneled white in serge black or satin twill m Small banded pearl and buttons outline the and hip panels Panels by the way are very chic chile when used as is Another Another An An- Another other importing house is showing a street gown of midnight blue serge and black back satin The satin Is used as asa asa asa a rather clinging and the serge is the tunic It is about knee length and it cut into deep points 0 of uneven length Some Same of the points are an I edged with tiny silk tassels tha flop fbi about most Ini I Midwinter ti frocks ks however are not nol t forsaking all the fashion decrees ol 01 0 f the earlier fall season They are lore more mor char chary of the tinsel and embroidery r r that frosted the gowns of ot yester- yester but they ate exploiting the craze for insets of ot contrasting color calor and material That naive little pastime which a L popular song epitomized some time ago known as looking through th the knothole in fathers father's wooden leg ha hano had L 1 no view at all compared with that ol ot 0 the clip little rosettes dabs of beads and other gewgaws that are arc poked through a a. slash or eyelet in the bodice or skirt of a gown or the front of ot a blouse One house is showing a new model mode l of sea seal colored If one had seen the fabric in the piece it would surely surey have been called damaged goods for it it is erratically covered with oddly shaped holes hoes and slashes I As made however the openings come at the top of the skirt over the shoulders ders and at athe the he middle front of ot the bo bodice ice These apertures are filled in with almond colored chamois skin Other dresses arc are full of ot large eyelets eyelets eye eye- lets Jets embroidered In colored silk and filled in with tiny dabs of gay ribbon or even tufts of fur One house Is showing a gown grown o or black velvet promiscuously promiscuously pro pro- slashed The slashes sashes are by ermine |