Show 1 1 r 4 f t SG i L Long ng Sleeves That lr Turn Back to Show v 7 Their Lining of Changeable Blue and Green Taffeta Embroidered in Green Sapphire and Bright Orange Orange Navy Navy Gabardine O Over er a aVest aVest Vest of French Blue F Furnishes h es th the e i. i W A Background k IL n. n J ti t j ii 1 i Jk ti C 0 d. d f S N l I r t t Gl 9 i t. t t i 1 t o i i By Mm Mme Frances The Famous Creator of 01 Fashions TU t tn n time ago I predicted the i SOME vogue of the Russian dress dress dress-a a mode that is exceedingly esque Since then my forecast has been more than justified and the Russian mode is the accepted style of the best best- dressed women in America This fashion invites the use of f magnificent magnificent cent furs as well as most gorgeous embroideries embroideries em em- that are decidedly colorful It Itis is also strikingly different from the types of dress that have been favored of late which is of course another reason for its popularity Pictured on this page are four of the most charming ling developments of the Russian Rug Rus ian sian style which I designed for my open open- ing One of the simplest is originated in black wool back satin It shows a long loose sleeve that is set in at the shoulder The pleasing neckline is defined by a bind of white silk serge which makes an effective effective tive contrast The front of the dress is very plain but the two diagonal lines running running run run- ning from the collar bind to the girdle are indicated by a bind of the white silk serge The skirt is extremely full and flar flares s about the figure like the veritable tunic of the Beneath this one may glimpse an exceedingly gly tight underskirt that is drawn rather high in the back But it is in the sash of scarlet cashmere cashmere cash cash- mere that you get the full value of this delightful de de- dress White and black silk trip s add more vividness to this gay adornment which is heavily fringed at atthe the ends Fur Trimmings for Gowns The hat that is worn with this creation creation crea crea- tion is developed from burnt ostrich which is one of the liked well trimmings of the season The shaggy flues are set about the silk foundation so so that they droop about the face and are also gathered high in the centre of the hat This skyward tendency in millinery is further emphasized in the striking hat that is elaborated with paradise plumes These are cleverly draped as they ascend and add many an inch to their wearers wearer's height The dress that appears appears with this stunning stunning stun stun- ning hat is wonderful in its color The The bl blouse use is made of geranium zinnia and gold brocade for no material is too r rich ch to lend itself to the development of the Russian Russian Rus Rus- sian mode An interesting type of neck opening is shown in this model The circular circular cir cir- cular line is slashed down the front for several inches and outlined with black satin Hudson Bay sable cuffs the wide wide- mouthed sleeves eat at f marks the skirt which l t r fi Braided in Scarlet and Belted Round by a Q Inspiration of or Lined 1 Scarlet t Styles Seen in W Wonderful Fabrics Fabri arid and Ornate I Embroideries f At Left Left Left- ROUGE ET NOIR NOIR- Almost a Real Cossack Cos Cas- sack ack Black Wool Wool- back Satin Bound in White Silk Serge and a Sash of Scarlet Cashmere That Is Striped in Black and White t. t r I 1 I I. I fl t r I. t Of Of I Ger Geranium Zinnia i and Gold Brocade Brocade J V is made of shimmering g black satin The The belt too is fashioned from this soft soft- textured material while about the snug snug- fitting underskirt of the saine same appears a handsome band of Hudson Bay sable While scintillating brocade lends radiant radiant radi radi- ant color to this dress similar effects are attained by the use of embroideries Those These however are often so ornate that they are not used all over the blouse In Inmany Inmany many cases the embroidery is limited exclusively ex ex- to the sleeves Such a model is sho shown n o on this page The fabric that I have chosen for its development development de de- is a handsome navy blue duve- duve The braiding on the sleeves is done in scarlet which makes a st striking contrast con con- on this thi charming Russian dress Interest In In- terest too centres in the shape of the sleeves Cut with very Ion long armholes they gradually narrow toward the wrist At this point big cuffs of black fox bring the requisite touch of ri richness to this model The shapely beauty of the neckline is much enhanced by the embroidery that outlines it A little strip of ot the red braiding braid braid- ing takes its zigzag g way down the centre of the frock On the narrow narow underskirt which is caught up quite high in the back the flamboyant braiding again appears I A dash of color flames forth on the skirt for the black satin sash is lined with scarlet which is brightly revealed where the ends fold over Here and therea there a thin red line is also noticeable at the outer edgEs of the sash The little hat made of navy blue duve- duve is unadorned for it is merely the com of a a magnificent dress whose braiding and fur trimming instantly delight de de- light the eye of the beholder In the fourth model that thatis is illustrated on this this' page the influence of Russia is strikingly revealed in the sleeves and girdle Navy blue gabardine is the fabric from which I have evolved this dress The long blouse is enriched with a vestee of French blue cash cash- mere of the same also mark the neckline and outline the opening that flanks the vest j The sleeves are extreme extreme- ly Iy ornate Set in at the reg reg- L ular armhole they hey are enormous enormous enor enor- in length and are VI turned back in a huge cuff edged with a narrow band of gray fox This long cuff is faced with blue and green taffeta k tt At A. A certain intervals the silk is crossed by bylines y lines of orange braid Between these a ap appears pears fine embroidery done in green an and sapphire blue This style of decoration is also repeated repeat repeat- ed on the ends of the sash which is made of the navy blue gabardine for the s sash is one of the most important features 0 of the Russian dress The turban is developed in French blue cashmere and boasts no flaming ornamentation ornamentation orna orna- which might detract from the interest that this dress will arouse wherever ever it is worn these dresses delightfully por- por J r Feature Borne nW Is the Long Blouse Above a Flaring Skirt of Black Satin tray the influence th that t Russian modes are havon hav- hav ing on American fash fashions fashions ions yet there are many other fascinating interpretations of ing I this new trend in I have wonderful wonder wonder- style tyle ful fabrics from which am designing Russian Rus I sian dresses while never before have I used so many gorgeous furs in the development development de de- of daytime dresses Embroideries Embroideries eries and are most admirable decorations when combined with the marvelous marvelous mar mar- wool fabrics that are so much prized for for these frocks in the i re IT f accessories thera are most delecta delectable ble novelties One bids fair o that be very popular is the bead flower 1 trimming Such i I flowers are fash fashioned so be beautifully l J fully th that t they al almost ij most rival the genuine They are made of very lovey lovely love love- ly y crystal beads in exquisite colors as well as tiny seed pearls Some of the latter set amid leaves of silver or gold when worn with sumptuous evening gowns add immensely to their richness These flowers are also worn on the new headdresses Often they are enriched by tiny wisps of Paradise that flare from irom th the jewelled bands that encircle the coiffure Jewelled combs are in favor for some of ot the newest styles in coiffing and these sparkle with innumerable semi precious stones New Tapestry Effects One of the smartest new types of pocketbook is that which has the upper made entirely of bronze tortoise shell or an an enamel plaque This gives a very veri novel finish to the envelope purse which may be originated in English grain cross leather calfskin vachette morocco or silk Interesting g fastenings of enamel or tabs are used on these models while many are outlined with gold Exquisite bead bags with designs that emulate quaint Persian patterns or those that suggest tapestries are designed with small drawstrings Some of these are finished finished fin fin- with dainty b bead ad tassels The gold mesh bag too is shown in charming styles One that is quite distinctive is designed so that the gold mesh looks as though it were a plaid In this model the envelope bag has inspired its design for it has a deep lap Fans are going to be of enormous size Those in the natural color will enjoy a wide vogue despite the fact that it is ex difficult to find the tip markings exactly alike on twenty feathers of the largest size When these are mounted on shell sticks they are most attractive Next week I shall show some of the lovely evening gowns which I created for my opening The Fashion Forecast Quaint capes and suggestions of capes such as as' big collars that can be thrown back backover n veT over the shoulders ho J will bej striking k f the new coa coat d eS S In r t West Sixth Fifty Is y Hew C. C York Vort 0 |