Show V i T. T C OJ N I i BY JOSEPH Of oi Fifth Avenue New v York CREATOR OF AMERICAN FASHIONS Women of conservative o tastes and those who incline memo to th tho extreme in dress will aliko alike be able to satisfy their desires in n tho the matter of millinery for foras as 5 tho the new now season advances ad upon u uit us it becomes more and more apparent that variety has not so m much ch as has ha been hinted binte at before as compared with the situation t at Is la going Joing to hold us in thrall rail for awhile now As I believe e I have remarked before before before be be- fore many o of the hats aro are deceiving They Thoy appear extra a extravagant nt o of or form fora and ti trimmin trimming until properly posed on the head bead when lo lol they might have been touched by a fairy wand so transformed transform d are they into what is demuro and sedate sedate se se- e. e I date enough b to suit the most retiring But But and and here is where fashion 6 scores o es a again Bin in n her reputation for unexpected un na- expected turns turns just just as as truly and just justas as often does dOM i it happen that a hat which v. strikes the tho eye as it is vie viewed a from its ita standard in the shop as almost too severe and too oppressively dignified fled fied adjusted d upon a a. coiffure by the clever er fin fingers and according to the artistic sense of the saleswoman seems the jauntiest and bit of head head- gear ear In fact fact it it is isn't it it you joU hesitatingly hesitatingly hesi hesi- ask tho the blond lady laay awaiting your decision almost too youthful looking koking and a too She assures you yon that a age e has no part to pla play in ill the tho selection of the new fall fail head headgear cU- cU cUa a year sixteen miss may select the same model as her mother and baby's round hat bat has been copied f for r 4 a Of the models shown in in the sketch h hit it would be difficult to say which is likely to bo be rc received ei cd with most favor or but tho the first is Bound to be most gen Jen becoming because the lon Ion long slant ant lino line and the diagonal sweep are always to be counted up upon n to suit suit by sli slight ht readjustment on the thc bead head The orl inal is s all in black velvet laid about the brim brimin iu in two sections a cord heading bead head V iD lag ing the lower ono one as indicated by the white line through the center and a B whito white spread win wing mounted to the top just at one side of tho the front In reality it is is an unusually close fitting model the wide brim sloping inwards toward towar the lower cd edge c but the flare toward tho the top tOJ gives ves tho the hat the app appearance aranco of being much larger than it really is The dress hat bat of tho the se second ond fj figure re illustrates first a combination of colors colors col col- ors that is going to be extremely trem ly f fashionable fash h. h and secondly a novel method of trimming trimmin upon which many variations varia varia- hone are bound to bo be played before rc the season has had half its run The crown is of black satin with a modest silver ornament at one side eide relieving re xe relieving re- re lieving tho plainness ana and the inner sec section on both inside and outside of the brim is blue blua velvet vel of about the same samo to tone eVas as the tho plume liko like boa that is fastened fastened fastened fas fas- just inside the brim and which after cn encircling it ends in a droop a at atthe at atthe the left side ride just wh re it coquettishly will fall toward the shoulder suggestive of a coiffure ornament t p This model is is particularly well Wen suited V V j to th the development of unusual l color a schemes hemes Shaded plumes or boas boss may mal be introduced with tellin telling effect or itis it it- is 15 an excellent medium for a black and w white whito ito or white and black blacic treatment 1 I think I have already informed you that in In spite pite of tho the wide lat latitude tude allowed inthe in inthe inthe the use of color black and white together together to to- gether and separately ly will trill continue the popularity they have had bad all summer To turn to tho the illustration a again in the third model is a dark green cen velvet hat bat whoso whose hoso brim is curiously indented and aud which must be bo worn with tho the highest part of the brim as here shown at the tho f far r side ide back Ordinarily a mod model l lof of that shape would bo worn with that section an inch or two wo further front or toward tho the sido side front This is an important im ini ml- ml point a I I I I IX I 1 I t A V g V V I I II I I Ia a- a I I IV IL L V I 1 I rA F 1 r l. l V I 4 V Three V and dress treM stat hat for autumn wear The trimming trimmin consists b of two plumes one the lower is pale blue and the theother theother other the one ono V that towers and curls above abo it is a green a lighter in intone intone tone tono than the green een of the hat bat The crown is arran arranged ed in regularly laid folds and is also effectively earned carried out in chan changeable or shaded velvet or in ono ono one of the mottled patterns which by tho the way I should I have explained l before be be- foro fore this is going Joing to bo ho boa a a great deal used in millinery ry The fourth and last of the models is isa isa isa a symphony in in brown The outside is of a ri rich h Vandyke velvet lined with a tabac and andl tho plumes gracefully poised at the side Bide front in the the- indentation obviously ob ob- designed for them are yellow When the desi designers ers that is the greatest of tho the creat creators r of millinery models started in to originate models for this fall it was strongly urged by bys s me of them that the use of velvet and satin flowers that was waa inaugurated rated in the summer should be continued contin but the idea was received with little enthusiasm enthusiasm en en- and then came the sudden suddon swerve ri right ht in the height hei ht of summer eummer from lowers flowers to fancies and feathers and then the idea was abandoned practically altogether A A. rose or even two if of the make mak and richest material may figure in in the more formal of the satin or velvet vol vel vet hats but that will mark the limit in fact for some soma inexplicable reason flowers lowers in millinery never take with the acclaim their beauty and aud grace raca would seem to warrant It tt is perhaps s that the introduction of the tailor made mada effects so 50 many years a ago ao o changed tho trend of dress drees in general and lIas has nas in influenced in ever since since even to this e. e extent ton However that may bo be the m manufacturers nu ac hirers have certainly accepted tho the cue of popular favor and turned out a delectable de de- de assortment of ornamental devices de do- vices in which h flow flowers re are aro not included |