Show r at Every Worna Woma Wants to Know About fler If er Pall fall C lothes thes A As T old by the ther r it Highest Fashion r a aY Y 1 0 o 1 t 0 s o a aN N j STANDARD POINTS t I I A. A OF COMING COlliNG SEASONS SEASON'S STYLES STILES if I has hasa he new now figure figuro a normal waistline waist emphasizing bust bast and giving siring scope scope to hips Natural figures ore are leading e colors o o r s I s. s fashionable brown green purple i navy blue Materials most in favor faTor grosgraIn taffeta velvet Tweed and homespun for tailored suits snIts For richer and andI I lighter lighter effects satin tulle with gold silver and Spanish lace Skirts short and full with deep hems Long coats with high collars collars' f I. I of fur Russian blouse girdled waist In house gowns draperies with bustle and pannier effects Evening gowns f to have a short train hanging banging either etier el t from shoulder or waist Hats more than usually a matter of individuality Conservative ve style something something some some- some thing midway between toque and wide brim Ribbon the most popular trim trim- r ming Shoes l high laced and sever severely ly plain i Gloves to match suit snit or else in white whiter I totor or r biscuit color kid or chamois a lOls i 1 i DEEDS of thousands of women HUNDRED IL JL A in New York and throughout the theco country are deeply concerned with this problem It Is ingi highly ly important majority who can haveL have han for tho the great L but butone one new gown gown to be quite quits sure I that it represents the true style of the season Eminent fashion writers are often 5 more S-more interested in their own ld ideas as fit fitl To ascertain ascer- ascer l rth than n in the general facts j taro tala what these facts are the writer remade made a careful canvass First she interviewed in info in- in fo r tho the fashion expert of one of f the highest class department stores I in New York Next Neat the expert of a great m. m medium price institution Then she he saw the editorial experts experts' of the two most representative magazines devoted d devoted voted to women's mens men's clothes clothes next neat the tha of two of the smartest specialty shops on Fifth Avenue venue and fi- fi allY nally two of N New w Yorks York's leading cou- cou cou f Below are the points on which these Influential influential arbiters for the most part agree points which may safely be accepted as a shopping guide by those w whose ose incomes do not permit them to toi i risk eccentricities That there Is a n radical change In i styles this season Is proved by y the thet t presence presence of a II new now figure There will willbe be 8 a II waistline not the wasp like abnormality abnormality abnormality ab- ab f normality of c earner earlier days but a curve which in reality only follows the na na- lines of the body Corsets will willbe be higher emphasizing the the- bust and shorter N shorter giving more scope to the hips all of which in Itself indicates the now silhouette of the gown go f In In choosing a dress there are three things to be considered considered color color cut and material On the question o of the former two experts asserted that jbrown brown and green would wo ld certainly certainlY leads lead pis this s season Yet another whoso authority authority au- au to speak on the matter is f R. R beyond y nd doubt Impeachable declared with with with equal emphasis In favor of purple Navy blue all agreed is ever ever a safe sate investment and for evening gowns thero is never a a. standard for tor all light t colors look good 0 C 0 L J I A AThe The Russian blouse rules in suits r I I I Bustles are regaining favor faTor 1 t Pro Probably b b I y every girl whose dress alI al allowance allowance al- al I lowance is I j problematic e lID aU c knows what Itis it itis itis is to hesitate r I at the beginning beginning begin begin- ning of the cold season season weighing weigh weigh- ing the ing-the relative In hats you ma may suit snit yourself practical merits merits merits mer mer- its of ofa a suit and a heavy coat For such here is a ar tip yo E t r. r that th t is inval inval- coats Jare J Long fashionable fashionable 19 0 t J 1 are 1 i 0 I. I P this season season The circular veil vell is eI chic e. e with high collar col cot 1 lar a r 0 of t fur Cur flaring skirts and a general air of elaboration elaboration elaboration tion and d style Also deep skirt skirl hems hem'S are arc In vogue the outsIde outside out out- side aide false hem which as the skirts skims aro arc arcIn In hair dressing suit your face t f Gho short usually comes come well up under Tinder the en end f 0 of ot the tie long coat co No Now J o If tho coat and skirt skis oem corn are aro of the camo cam samo o material say material velvet gaTE 0 or som something loss less ess ea expensive ex- ex pensive pensive pensive-it it will raqu b be Possible possible to cone convey conTer th the impression oa of a a. heavy street costume while all tho time wearing a a. dress dyes and coat In matter of suits there seems seem to be u unanimity of ot opinion that th the Russian blouse or rather the popular adaptation of it will mn rule throughout the e s season ason with its high collar girdled girdle waist and variable length of lum Skirts are in all cases short and full ful and there seems to be a a. tendency ii in inthe inthe the direction of outside seams On One sights an occasional military model and the tailored girl may have a choice of tweed suits or homespun in which wild wilda a box coat and crush collar are notable new features In sharp contrast to the almost almos severe lines of the winter suits come coma the ho house e gowns for afternoon and am evening Here again th the experts mee meet all all are satisfied th that t J. J draping has hascom come com coma to stay This is not the dra draping draVing ini Y which ich haunted and hampered us only a fe few lew se seasons sons ago with its long Ions loops a arid and d clinging folds but new bouffant bustle and pannier eff effects a c a Gothic rather than a Grecian beauty It in is inno inno no way interferes with the skirt hem h i still stai hort ull edit it necessarY n. n c 1 The atte attention n. n centres entirely entirely entirely en en- on the hips bipS' which which are at times wide beyond all aU the bounds of wisdom And then again again they are slim with the slimness whIch only a perfect figure figure figure fig fig- ure can give when an occasional designer designer designer de de- de- de signer puts forward the old Princess frock For this style too Is to be seen both in morning and evening gowns In the it former is found mostly in ser serge e usually with a plaited plaU d skirt in the latter it comes in velv velvet t. t wilts graceful sinuous train In ev evening nIng gowns the tho newest feature and one likely to last is a a short train which hangs sometimes from the shoulder but at times begins only at atthe atthe atthe the waist a very novel effect when taken ken in conjunction with the otherwIse otherwise otherwise other other- wise short skirt GrosgraIn taffeta and velvet lead in inthe the tho matter of materials materials all all all heavy tiff stiff substances which can be depended on m to sustain the upstanding and outstanding outstanding outstanding out out- standing effects which the designers I I have Savo decided to favor Then there are lighter fighter effects in tulle tull richer effects in n satin Gold and silver lace is ds used in n quantities and there theres Is a new Span Span- Spanish Spanish ish eh variety which is as ai exquisite as asit asit ast it t is expensive The important all-important question of hats proved to be vexed One expert opined hi high silk sUk beaver had already shot hot its Us bolt and advised as a a. safe sate and end conservative style something midway midway mid mid- way vay between the tho and the wide brim grim Another decided unequivocally in n favor of the latter A third called c attention to the band of velvet beneath the tho chin and hinted at a a. vogue of bonnets sonnets Perhaps tho the best suggestion who confessed authority came ame from an to o being frankly at t sea Millinery is isa isa a matter of individuality and the tho only Us itself elf into advice to be given resolves given resolves One thing however a suit is s certain Ribbon is the most popular trimming rimming though there are aro some flowers flowers flow flow- ers rs and feathers feathers- f Tho The question queston of shoes proved to be simp simplicity implicit itself They are to be bo high laced and severely plain Provided tho ho suit bo ho dark ark it Is admissible to toj J k i- i 4 i. i 1 1 4 k ar y t r r r Miss Up and andl r Her New Fall Clothes t r A 1 t Til I i I a r va i r t M C ar a G i J c r rr K 4 4 IL 0 r Y 1 r I 0 Y k ti S r t t C rr t 5 Cf 1 ft f. f r 1 r. r Y z p i r Y 1 r 1 c i 0 1 r I c p pI KM t I j 1 AJr i. i 4 i t v S r q v t L W lf 1 J l. l d H O e f y r rl t l rs j ir k kj r- r Se Y Vy v 7 ver vw PM vl t r r r. r 4 4 f l j r r i- i S t M t- t l r 4 Y o A wear a kid that tones with your costume costume cos cos- tume but under no other tion Tho The champagne effects of yesterday yesterday yes yes- are entirely taboo As regards gloves there was diversity diversity diversity di di- of pt opinion As S in shoes one suggested that colored kid might be safely worn to match the suit sult But this met suet With a flat fiat contradiction from froman an authority of noto note Only white or biscuit color was admitted in kid or if desirable chamois But Dut it U must bereal be bo boreal real chamois capable of ot being washed without shrInking Then there are arc a hundred miscellaneous miscellaneous miscellaneous laneous matters or of detail in which the tho Individual Is left to choose for It herself t First comes omes the matter of ot sleeves Mostly they are aro long but with the length comes conies a wide wido variety Tho The mutton-leg mutton sleeve I Is back and likewise likewise like like- wise the bishop but with a difference In the tho th former We Wo have not returned to tho the wide wido shoulder effects which confront us in our mothers' mothers portraits for designers have havo found a way to avoid this bulk They shape the shoulder kimono fashion and then at atthe atthe the tho elbow begins the tho putt puff Next comes the question of jewelry It is Important this season though diminutive and its chief is Js sim sim- Platinum Is the favorite setting setting setting set set- ting diamonds the favorite stone but not IlOt th tho small cut stones of ot former years This season they are largo and simple A novelty is presented in an elbow bracelet linked finked of course and conspicuously conspicuously conspicuously con con- sparkling Gold linked bracelets aro arc worn also on the wrist and there are somo some bangles But always the ornaments must beas be-as unobtrusive unobtrusive unobtrusive un un- un- un obtrusive as they arc aro expensive Pendants Madame must suit your face tace matching it in m color and contour which necessarily admits of ot a wide variety in stones to tone with the shading of the skin Wrist watches are fashionable so sois sois sois is a monocle and rings may bo worn if it simple and at times mannish But Dut above all be careful that they har har- f monize with your costume Otherwise far wiser to go without There are still a hundred minor r points for tor consideration which also f fare are matters of ot choice There Thero is tho the question of a veil It must be bo circular circular circular cir cir- cir cir- cular but whether It comes to your shoulder or stops quito quite short at your 0 nose is entirely your ur own affair I Your hair may curl over your forehead or be drawn back with Puritanical Puritanical Puri Purl C i simplicity There Is even a a. rumor that you may carry corry a pigeon on your wrist and affix a Q watch to your ankle In fact there Is plenty of latitude for eccentrics as well as rules for the observance of the tho orth or or- th r I 1 |