Show F i TO BARCELONA VIA PYRENEES I I A Run Into French Territory or of 5 Travel in Spain 1 aul Corr IH t I t lit l by rail mU mUtY tY the northern ot of plin II not it 11 journey to be b i t 1 November nd MaY rl but IL II s un Intensely Inter on tar far th the I tUt lIK ot Of travel ot of I it Barcelona summer RUmmel hut they Ail R III Approach It b by up tIe the tram from or CadIz or bY over tram from French tern t I r ly Ia bt Nice Iee Toulon foulon Monaco It If you ou would karn thu tho real SI 1 Ii YOU OU inuit mut go outSIde the betton ith prepare to rough It You Yu be content with fare tIU beds window Anti jolt 1111 ru 1111 You mUll learn to 10 watt walt Ith h all aa you yuu never waIted hop bo COll and all you put pride In your our pocket and every erry SpanIard frog beggar begar to tao Itro nl na friend and equal It If you CAn along an unbiased l ll mInd tempo freed from ron It ou 1111 pl much to admire In Iii Spain be 11 the In her t I u UINI ot of art anti and legendary In the kindly generous f and their unfaIlIng ur urI I y lint But OU take tak the Span RII nH Iu with think hI he ought to 10 be It stan of oC religion and dot anti and of the of life that n 1 dUP from one olle human being to an annh othI nh r hower wide apart allart In rank and unmet II Ia to ours 1 It must ho be In re ia Idl IA hi superior SIMIn will vIlI nver he 11 nor 1101 she Rhe sIli tP III h I It well to for I to 10 heed th old rule ruI While In Turkey 10 aM Ac the Turks Turk A jaunt through the ancient of lIlIon sight ot of the Iyre n ns IM III th ot of a of Iran tern and hare bare for tor till the mOlt moat art with hardly II a tree mention mentIonIng Ing nor grass nor 1101 there Ia 18 no single ln le feature ot of striking natural beau t lv to 10 be at mra iare Intervals where mountain apura runnIng down on Into Inlo the desert rt form nn an Interim of oC valley alle which I Is Its as one great garden 1 within rocky walls wall II On th Interminable uninhabitable the lIene I Is almost ICh lU for Are no bIrds no even oen any Rny Yet th Ih SOUl of an artIst will Ill rejoIce In long KIR gray hues lineA of In the un broken expanse ot of duk diUk antI and desolate i sierra Ierra while every Over crevIce In the dIe 1111 that lant hills Is dIstinctly In the transparent and the 1 sva I of oC the fall blue upon the i I ale ot of Ul the tawny desert PIe Pic It effect ore are noel never I along the lusty road Imul 1 hy by Peasant wor I il UA ot of cattle nt at wayside wells or orI standing out ns as it If against tho I vale pale long trains of oC mules I with their jingling lIn hell bells II antI gaudy and theIr drivels drIvet In IN SPAIN This II Ia the character of all RII the country now traversed h by the 1101 railways of oC Spain which was un tin ill to be through onlIn only In or on Quixote f fashIon Spain is 18 now eo threaded h by railroads 10 1 I ot of that t thing of oC Interest may hI be reached In n a but oh how the Spaniards hate hale and ahue those tile uee lIle Item hem Certainly the they them IrO go IIlo dow nil as ever oer they can and their speed down as aM nearly RS as to 10 that of the TIme is Ii of oC no In SpaIn where It has hall still so IO many centurIes and It Is 18 n a am on I saying when Ii a train rowls cratis along at R a snails pace stoppIng every few mIles for tor no apparent can smoke mob ones cigarettes IS as well vell In one f pJ place as snottier another t hut Just JUIl when the American tra traI tray I pIt I to think tie he has hail hAd quite t enough h of oC It unit to wonder wh why he heVer If EVer Ver ramI caIm to tn this It ie glon he be radle one of the grand ohl dills which seems to have enjoyed a siesta of oC several hundred years and to tohata have hata hardly staked liP tir from It Then how he pItIes hIs fellow beIngs who vho i ha haye never neer een his nt at once forgotten In delight ht of oC walks shaded by 1 orang trees palms and 1111 sycamores along the banks ot of a great open squares for fr Lull bull lights and rell lous fiestas plazas with central en t 1111 fountains hero here bands IlAnd play every lery evening while prom and make fu furtive 11 ht love loe II by thE light t of I th h mon dark narrow winding with housea of every age except Pill form and itle labyrInths or of I hull convents nn and churches all Jumbled together and smacking of mediaeval time mar marketplaces set let prel precisely el ns as for Cor the And gorgeous In movement amid color Quaint cemeterIes here the tho quick IU are a ae client nR as the dead and dominating nil all tilt the vast a t gothIc I ml With It its air airy spires and male towers 11 1 fine por pOl arches archea and l capItals 18 of oC varied tracery d p vaults anti and forest of oC 1111 altars allars lighted by br thousands of M tapers kEpt century after century b by succeeding g live theIr little day anil mm 11 14 I tIe Uti to 10 In the shadow ot of th the vails POOR POOH S met audi a city It I Ii Gerona near the Iho coast and close under the dIvIding line hI be 1 twain France lomme and Spain Coming by rail from the westward von OU arrive In Inthe the flight and walk up town from the I station guided by y the friendly lantern fit II a poll You will probably I put up at the Fonda house Interesting enough nough In Itself to JlII for tor tilt thit long lome Journ journey Jl It stands near the cathedral Is always the poInt and Its beautIful windows Moorish for Cor Gothic are II dl Iu hy by numerous round Ill lii lame ot of white whit marble Time 1 ial Ine meaning ot of Is 18 apertures h by the lun uti entera In All you take lako your Our choIce holce between are the i ft ni m r house pugdal An Inn but bUI of oC vel very Inferior qualitY fundAl which answer to our hot hOI antI and Iaal d de I II r boarding hou houses where food tood ant and lodl I ing Are supplied always cheap chlap anti i tolerably The latter are I first cousins to till the Pensions ot of the Frt In Spain advertise that have furnished locale to let hang out n a II thee Ieee ot of blank white from Cram the middle ot of the front h balcony leon anti tho those e whose roOms lOoms are shirt shift the paper to on Imer cormier ot of the balcony The are whatever the bare of oC furnIshing except tol narrow ot at Iron or for far each per son eon though tImers there he be a dozen In your famIly cup CUll of oC coffee with whim JJ r I bread l Ia gratte In the tho morning to vor IUt Whether lie be takes hll In the houe hou or N 1 CITY across the capItal of oC It Ita I province and a pee II beautifully sItu fiLed on th the rad I rIver Onar just above Its Sanction with the Tel Ter Well milt built and It snuggles close un del dam the hIlt hili or tt It time Granada being or of the he remotest antiquity Throughout time the earl early evening It Its narrow streets art are IllumInated 1 by el electricity for tor which lh the rIver lilt motive molle lOWer lint but to Ill say they are left leet In hI darkness luring the hours houra when moat needed the city fathers jo 10 not think It wise wille tt to interfere wIth the 1110 or of for tor this Is III tu tl In which th the sophisticated INI Quixote te remarked that he knew he be must InUit be near bt because u the cork ork trees were UfO full tull ot of robbers who w were r passing the night among monr the tho are so numerous hereabouts that It 11 i to In stray outside the city It walls waUrn rn In broad daylight unless well at 11 anti and we WOre re warned a climbing the hIll hili m for tor tho exploit ot of Lord tArd durIn during the war ar of all aa the road swarms with though In full tull ot or tho cliv below belo an and soldiers a aj constantly tu to and tro from the town to the Iho cItadel on the tho summit With all due ClUe to her i poorly It ilIA nifty be that the hungry soldIers i Ocr rUTt 1111 a particularly foreIgner along who Is II sure to have hae mucho much mutt money In lila hll Yet tile the laws against rob her ber UI are very levere VE hen 1 a high is III caught r 1 In the theart art act lie he I Is rare rarely trl l by br a judicial trIbunal Spanish justice Is III tOt too Un UncertaIn certaIn In Its results and too a luxury to I be rashly in rhe culprit I Ii shut In time the jaIl In It a few days Ilau all aim order arrives to 10 transfer him hili to some other Prison The fhe robber robbe well vell knows what that ammil sends nt at once for fOl 1 a con on re fessor or with whaM assistance he makes makel arrangements tI for the next t world orld Then Theil he sets out nut tranquilly for tor his hll Pre 1111 Pretended tended destination un tinder er fin an escort of oC civil guarIs who at the limit con convenIent place allow him him to Nl get l a few pas In III advance anti then shoot him under time that he Is 18 trying to get et away I Is made and everybody under understands stands InclUded You need not nol stay IonIC bug iii for there Is little to see I besides lt Ita enormous cathedral which was wa found founded ed h by na In pulled down and rebuilt three thle centuries later ant and consecrated for Cor the third Um time about time real 1036 Far the theda da lays In iii R a run time the seine is lIB In the nearby Pyrenees It Itis is III only II a little Journey to upon time the the great French system of oC where It I Is short work to beloved beloyd of Bayonne and to 10 Iau BesIdes Its III PlC situation u upon On Its mountain torrent the aase antI and Its lis genial ell calls thither eVer every winter 1 a large h rolon colony Pan Pall is II a place of extraordinary historical Interest It contaIns tIme the grandest castle catle In five centuries old In which Henr henry LV IV as 88 born anti whore where you may yet ret see ece his imis cradle It Is hard to think of a kin king whose stately we are accustomed to see on monuments an anIn and andin In as on nn In thur golden shell nut But here he was carried about In hits his nurses os arms and frolicked tl under the trees anti grew to and lie he be the great Henry of oC Navarre hose hole white plume was always In front of the battle FAMED I FOR It Is two hours ride tram from Pail to toI I Lourdes the moat place of I pilgrimage tim In but In hat late haM grown IroWn almost revolting UH turned Into speculation with the cool 1001 calculation or of business ami all the resource of nt Instead of going I there h rl w preferred to cross crOll to the h side of the to d whose brown ron ralls and 10 IrH stand out in strikIng contrast t to t their of oC snow Inow tipped mountains mountain The fht bug readies of at barren plain In iii front called the Je of resemble the Roman Campana far tor desolation and lack laek of oC Coloring Time The railway station is II deep down In the valley and a Ticket om takes yoU up to town b by a steep winding roat road skirtIng the lofty walls wall wallAnd And Ilu passing a drawbridge and rate gate va 8 No trees art are to be seen except 1 a few whIte poplar spared whim all other t trees are cut ut down be beau caus au ot of the Spanish tradition that were tIme the tr trees 1 Ond rested Is In 11 11 the All an WAS bod body kno knows when or b by whom smut rebuilt b by Pompey U sa B 11 C The fhe Moore corrupted Its III Roman noma 11 name to Pam ani anti hence the Many tImes time conquered l Rn and reo ro by O Oaths Moors anti ChrIstians time the or of the place is III now distinctly brightly painted cases all hung thick with Iron wrought rol ht balconIes II dozens of plazas fronting gray fray churches where priestly robes and shovel hats art are seen ling with the ray gay costumes af J the peas peasantry n antry Jt Its great Plaza Is II tt site IIII lit of a an anever n never tobe forgotten trall tragedy where ten thousand Jews were burned alive a human visIble for mlle mIles around to 10 do honor homier to the marriage of ofa ofa a aunt tie III Champagne From this largest In Spain and one ot of of tIme steep anti stony street lIn leads aim to the cathedral built In time the twelfth century but 1 a cou ou rile nil ot of centuries or of later rUeI by ot of nicknamed The Noble OF the line of at walls whose whole In the middle ages gave to Pamplona th title Muy noble muy lea y muy heroics you come at last to time the citadel whIch I 1 be besieged In 1521 while I King was wal absent lii III German A handsome young lieu lIeutenant tenant I ola hall hail lwon left 01 to guard uart It a brut brave imo he was III wounded a and disabled hen time the garrison seeing him tall fall A hail hul struck both legs and great were lie to 0 th tIme Uan world was hIs hlA Personal vanIty nt itt the time that twIce after the wound were Wrt partially healt l hI he Insisted upon having his hll Ie legs opened unit a projecting hone sawn oft art Hut But It WitS was no use 11 and its III arose from hi his b bed lamed for life During his hll long lion III his hll lettuces castle he be asked aked for tor to beguile the time lime hut but none were pre to he be had In that early age ot of printing anti the they brought him Instead A hIstory ot of anti comae Lives ot of the SaInts These fht t so 10 strong all an Impression this 1111 Ita gay r cavalIer that lie he then anti there determined to renounce e time the And Its 1111 vanitIes anti 1011 himself tl to the service ot of OO God mute change II iii time life of time the founder of oC Ihl the Order of the Jesuits II Is orated In h by a chapel near one of time gates contains a lne of oC INNIE In soliers n B WAnD er ern |