OCR Text |
Show SCARF NOW PLAYING IMPORTANT HOLE 3y Edith Raymond. NEW YORK, Si.pl. JS. The pannier that made so much talk in the spring, to tho relief of fashion writers, whoso words must ever outstrip tho styles in (their developments, is not so much in evidence .just now as the long straight tunic, which gives that most desired of all the dressmaker's yearnings, "lines." The hip yoke is going to play an important im-portant role in the gowns of tho coming com-ing peasoir. Later developments will have their surprises, as fashion openings open-ings always have; but this feature of the modish costume is sure to be in evidence. A picturesque frock was worn at a lawn feto up tho river the other day. It was made of foulard, which had a white ground dotted with nattier blue spots. The gown was a princess shirrod many times in girdle effect at the waist line around the sides, but fell in a panel from tho bodice to the hem of 'the gown in the front. The short skirt had a band of blue soutache, work around the bottom, and a tunic effect was outlined with tho same work. This lunic was short at the front, rounded downward at the sides, and was straight across the back. An odd girdlo was as much of a jacket as a girdle possibly a peasant, bosico would describe it. It dipped upward at the center of tho front ami laced across the loops and buttons. The round neck was outlined with tho soiitacho and tho yoke was of lace. The scarf is playing an . important role in Ihe wardrobe. In place of the long narrow drapery of old thrown carelessly care-lessly across 1 he ahoulders for comfort or effect, it is now draped to fit the shoulders in all sorts of odd ways, and any material that enhanced the effct of" tho toilet, which it accompanies, is chosen. One way of fitting the scarf is bv means of shirring put in in Vs at tho back from the neck downward. These are sometimes caught down with passcnientcrio ornaments. With a nattier blue gown seen the other day there was worn a brown chiffon scarf, lined with blue chiffon, the tone of the gown. The other chiffon was striped with four bands of brown marabou. Gray marabou trimmed, a similar scarf made of grav chiffon lined with mauve. Ioussclino do soic is practical for such scan's because of its better wearing qualities. A stunning gown worn on tho. stage has an autumn note. It is of indigo blue cloth with a deep hip yoke of blue, brocade and a hitrh blue cloth baud, which- meets the white mousselinc do soic bodice. A band of ermine outlines the decolletage. A blue brocade coat trimmed with sable comer, in on the ira)o.t.tbe :icLs;.ss and is later out on. The toque is covered with blue silk and trimmed with a black aigrette. One oi" the newest fancies for evening even-ing gowns is Ihe realistic embroidery being put upon these made of gauze. The work is an art, for raised flower designs needle work on the most fragile ground are not easy. On a wild rose-pink rose-pink liberty satin, "made by one of the leading houses of Paris, tho house that brought, out the new work, there is n band of morning glories in pink and blue around the short skirt, and the same flowers are used on the waist. On another gown made bv the same house, there is an elaboration of realistic geraniums that look as though Ihey might be picked from tho fabric. Tho coarse f-ilk flowers are worked petal by petal on (ho mousj'eline dc soie and are built up to resemble the real flower most closely. Daisies and wild roses are used in the same way on girls' dance gowns. Some of I ho new silks and fine woo! and silk mixtures brought in for the coining season are not only passing beautiful, but are very practical. The silk cashmeres and serges, comparalive-lv comparalive-lv new to the counters, and the loug line of voiles and marquisettes ami other oth-er diaphanous fabrics, run a Jong gamut ga-mut ot text ure and color. It looks as though a good many transparencies would be used over foundations of different dif-ferent colors. Similar effects are suggested sug-gested in some of the now silks of ombro and brocade kiud. Jt is something some-thing of a novelty lo seo a full line of foulards at this season of the year, but this old silk has taken on "new complexions and a new face the last few years, and is now numbered among the staples. Tho new foulard of warp print is very close to tho mcssalineii ami their kind in w'eavc and gloss and its pattern no longer has tho hard printed outline. One of tho now serge suits bro u r h t I j I BUY THE PROVISIONS I IN SYSTEMATIC WAY I 'i The systematic ordering of provisions in a custom which should be adopted by every housekeeper. Every Saturday make out in a notebook note-book the requirements for the menus for oach day and slock to your schedule. sched-ule. Only ,two difficulties upset this scheme: Left-overs and unexpected company. With these every one ans to contend, but they are likely to receive better attention 'where the larder is in perfect running order than where a housekeeper does not. know from one day to the next what she will have to ca;i over bv a woman pisl homo from Paris has a coat of knee length, which but-, tons from just above the waist lino to ' below the hips, with six .jot bullous, i The coat has a side piece, which curves from the side of the armholo at the; shoulder to under the arms at the-hips. and is outlined all the way with stitching, stitch-ing, and at the bottom curve with five I jet buttons and simulated b'ut lonholes. The skirl is made side plaited with a box plait at the front, which has five , buttons and simulated buttonholes, slatting" at the lower edge of the coat , and extending lo deep flounce depth on oach side. The narrow turnback collar, col-lar, which leaves a long narrow V, is. of black satin, ami there is a litlle, braiding of black soutache on .the, shoulders. The sleeves are long, tight j and plain, with five buttons on the out-( side seam. I The coals are as Jong as one wishes, j They arc cut in singularly graceful , shapes. Fronts are seldom cutaway. , but fastened straight down, or arc j double-breasted. Much variety is i shown in their finish around the bit-tom bit-tom when above Ihe soven-cighths length, and this invests them with a drossy appearance. Large, drooping rovers ro-vers "are in high favor, and innumerable innumer-able double collars are "in." Vests are seen in many of the most exclusivo .garments, though more among tho imported im-ported models than among those of American design and manufacture. j Black Kit in is a favorite facing for both rovers and for vests; and there-are there-are often strappings of a different colored col-ored cloth, frowns designed for formal for-mal wear are loaded down with garnitures, gar-nitures, yet under it all there is the silhouette to be retained even more I clearly than it has been, because La IModc decrees that the waist lino shall be more clearly defined. Indications point to a positive rage for black and white, judging from the new model frocks and tho trimmings. White' veiled with bJack, and black veiled with white, satin and softly lus-.trous lus-.trous silks, and diaphanous materials over them, make up a most fascinating combination. On one model there is a long trailing skirt of morvollioux, slashed up tho center, and a panel of jotted lace extended to a bib poiut touching the bust. Side portions are vor3 full and drawn to fit tho ticure by means of a scries of shirrs, which stop at. Ihe hips, so that from there tho material falls iu little straight folds. Over it in corresponding folds is a black chiffon section, traced all over with tiny beads. The bodice is sharply pointed in front and fashioned of tho mcrvellioux, shielded by the chiffon again, but here the tracery is heavier, with crossbands of black vcl- .'L :l. dciightC'jJ. LQii'Jj |