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Show 'Parisian Suggestions For the ffff ill Fhncy Tbress 'Ball Costume J & fa fa fa fa fa fa, fa fa fa fa. fa fa fa fa fa fa fa. fa fa fa fa fa fa fa fa fa fa. fa fa, fa, fa, fa, fa fa. fa. fa. fa fa. fa fa fa. fa. fa. fa fa. t& Of. tfr. i& iff. t. iff. rft iff. if, fa 1 . -V i , r r . V r WARIS. Jan. 16. Paris Is ringing whSr with the wonderful success of Bp Sarah Bernhardt In one of her . L old time parts, half dove, half , tiger, provided for her by that past master of dramatic art. Vlctorlen Sardoti. The "divine Sarah" seems in this play to have reverted once more to Hh . the electrifying power and magnetic H . . charm of, her "La Tosca" and "Fedora" 1 ' triumphs. This marvelous woman whom H t age cannot wither or custom stale has H once more drawn all Paris to her feet. H The new romance, "La Sorclcre," deals B , with the Moors and Spaniards In the V j sixteenth century, and nothing can be 1 recalled by the most inveterate theater I goors of the gay- capital to rival In . magnificence of mounting this incdira- H I val drama. There was a murmur of ad- H J miration at tho sceno showing Toledo H by moonlight, with its bridge spanning the Tagus, bringing out all the plc- j. ! turesqueness typical of this quaint old H Spanish city. H' Mmo, Bernhardt never plays better H' I than when surrounded by tho trap- Hv j Pings, ornaments and Jewels of a dea- W ; potlc epoch, and in thin latest success H her artistic powers have a splendid ; Held. In the-first; act. cho appeared t ' gowned in a gorgeous garment of voile glittering in silver, and the audience at once fell under her hypnotic influence. I wonder whethor Mrs. Leslie Carter in America will interp'rot this fascinating chUracter of ZorayaS In the social world the "bal costume" has been Interesting the smart set to the exclusion of all else in the way of amusements; consequently the fashionable fash-ionable mondaine.Js making a study of the most effective and picturesque points in the costumes of all nations. Everything American has a great vogue here, the Yankee highball is acclimated ac-climated and the national game of poker Is quite at home In its Parisian surroundings. In the fancy costume line the Indian squaw, the cowboy and the' Puritan malflen figure prominently. It is also considered very omart by ex- BRETON GIRL. elusive hostesses to havo a cakewalk don on costume at their fancy balls. Tho French themoelves, while seeking abroad for ideas, have a bountiful supply sup-ply at homo upon whioh the rest of tho world is very fond of drawing. Noticeable in thin line aro the 'artistic 'artis-tic possibilities of the empire and di-.rectolro di-.rectolro periods In sartorial affairs. hr r r i , r x i Brocades which even Watlcau would envy and like to paint are to be picked up not for a song, but in sufficient lengths from which to fashion a ball dress of this era, A scant skirt of the empire days Is lovely when made with a wide ruching of plain silk In a contrasting con-trasting shade around the bottom. The NORWEGIAN PEASANT. short bolero on this costume Is of moss green velvet if the skirt material Is of a peachy tint. The revern and high, flaring collar are embroidered In gold galloon. A quaint high bonnet o shirred silk having a saucy bunch of flowers perched on the crown In front should accompany the empire frock. A dlrectoire toilet will transform a Btately beauty Into a regular grande dame. This eowr Is very like the empire em-pire In its makeup, excepting the bonnet, bon-net, which is a largo three cornered hat, with a cockade well up at the side. When the dlrectoire costume is affected, a La. Tosca stick Is a dainty trifle to carry. The Breton peasant In her picturesque pictur-esque dress offers a good suggestion for a fancy ball gown. Her skirt Is of wide, striped blue and white cotton, over which Is worn a long, sheer white apron reaching almost to tho hem of the frock. A low, white muslin cheml- j f v vy-f ; f ?f 5 sctte. a tiny jacket coming In a point to the bust line and puffed sleeves with turned back white cuffs complete the dress. The headpiece Is a fearful and wonderful specimen of sartorial architecture ar-chitecture and looks like a miniature windmill of white muslin placed on each side of the head with big, round buttons but-tons or.cabochons and banded, coronet fashion, with a twist of black velvet. The Norwegian peasant in bright national na-tional costume Is a model not to be overlooked. A full red skirt of crape or some soft voile or cashmere is trimmed trim-med above the hem with a design of leaves cut out of silk and appllqued with Grecian embroidery silk. The white Met net apron is treated In the same way. The full bodice Is of royal blue with a wide band of black velvet ribbon flanked by two narrower bands sewed across the bust. Outlining the low neck is a latticework" of baby velvet vel-vet ribbon. Tho sleeves are long and VIVANDIERE. full, of the bishop style, without beuiy banded. A tall, pointed cap of muslin with a fall of material at the ears is the rather trying; headgear to be donned don-ned with the Norwegian dress. rcry fascinating and fetching is the vlvandiere or daughter of the regiment costume. A short accordion plaited, i skirt of white Is worn under a military coat of belligerent red elaborately braided in gold bullion with all the trappings of war. With gold epaulets, a drtini sluns rakishly over the shoulder shoul-der and a colonel's chapeau on a fluffy head, what girl Is there who wouldn't like to-be a military woman for an evening at least? "Miss Ribbons" is a dainty creation. This fluffy little lady has in her costume cos-tume bolts upon bolts of ribbon of all widths which may be of harmonizing colors or, hotter still, different shades of one color. A fringe of Inch wide ribbon rib-bon forms a ruffle over a "drop" of silk. Running horizontally from the knee up In princess style are more rows of ribbon. rib-bon. The waist has a wide sash starting start-ing from the side seam and drawn up at the shoulder with an Immense chou of loops with long flowing ends. Straps of ribbon compose what there Is of the . IBBONS. sleeves. A large poke bonnet of ribbon rib-bon Is held coqucttlshly under the chin with a carolqss, .loose bow. Weird and spooky Is the "bat" costume. cos-tume. Gun metal gray tulle plaited and held close to the figure above the knees, then allowed to flare at the feet, is covered with bats cut out of black velvet vel-vet and glued hero and there ovor the drees. Huge specimens of this grew-some grew-some bat family form the corsage and head trimming. A cloak somewhat on the JRed Riding Hood order with the front eliminated and the back cut Into sections like bat wings is lined with silver tissue and fastened securely over the head at the throat. To make the picture realistic the arms must he held extended their full length to give th winglike appearance. l The Spanish dancer, with her castanets, casta-nets, is always a graceful figure In tho ballroom. Flame colored, spangled tulle is a charming fabric for this costume. cos-tume. The bodice Is of satin In a lighter shade of yellow, with bolero and long, tight fitting sleeves of black velvet. vel-vet. Outlining the jacket and running down tho front of the skirt Is a shawl shaped ornamentation of knotted chenille che-nille In different colors shading from flame to bright pink. The hair is arranged ar-ranged high and caught with a tall comb of Spanish workmanship with perhaps the additional adornment of a red rose or two. The costumes described are only a few of the many phases of the fancy ball gown. There are historical, mythological mytho-logical and grotesque creations galore, but these frocks have tho advantage of being easy to duplicate and not extravagant extrav-agant as to price. I had really forgotten that the item of expenso is tabooed in this luxurious age, and we. hear on all sides that never nev-er have toilets been surpassed in costliness cost-liness slnco the days of the French empire. em-pire. It is amusing to see the indifferent indif-ferent air assumed by our elcgarftes as they fling off scarfs of ermine mixed j wkh priceless lace. j In the coming spring lace is to be extravagantly used, and the coarse variety va-riety will have a foremost place on fashion's list, and Irish crochet, which wears like iron, Is to be a leading favorite, fa-vorite, while lace embroidered with gold thread is a recent debutante among trimmings. Another feature of the early spring styles is the continuance of the bolero in favor. It may be worked out in va- A BAT. " rlous shapes, but in every Instance these Jackets will be extremely short. In the matter of veils La Mode is autocratic. au-tocratic. She demands strict adherence adher-ence to a one toned color scheme. In other words, the hat and veil must match. Fancy white veils are fetching, although trying to a colorless complex ion. When worn long and full tome of the new "beauty aids" hang qnile the shoulder and require a subtltneuiBM of handling which only an artist In mMrr sartorial line may hope to achieve J nvii Shoes and stockings mutt neif match. For street wear r.othliu; hir "yr superseded the black stocking and 5,YyJ 5n favor.- In the evening titer swa53 jffl' woman wears beautifully embroldwri VtC and lace trimmed hosiery, although tti'y -j lace at the ankle to preserve thlsdila- , . ty outline must be narrow and dtl! X3'iIE cately Inserted. wj1?1 Kid and satin are the fashionable M-cf11 terlals for the slipper, and their pense Is found in the buckle raUfrfB ' than In the embroidery. Patent ltA!: for low shoes is the correct thins. f Tho latest Invention in the up lo !i:5f jeweler's window Is the handknilift Ultit: and purse bracelet. In design It It if serpent, fitting closely to the wrist iti iisi holding the purse In Its coils. Tbtrtlij f ' ft SPANISH DANCE fjg something very fascinating wl tucking away of a moucKo- ; DTJi sleeve. The fair sex wlselj' J , fancy from the men, but Jujt u jj 'it fashion all our own whir 1 attractive. . joy Ji A pretty and useful a; J lady's bureau Is a silver )ni s made to hold troublcsom " j ,j. These vases will be attvf Jd,t,0D to the bureau set. will t ort k '"1 CATHERI I A Virtue of y."li7' f4. I A charming Idea Is 'Jf d vat with cfuilllnss chiffon 1 which Is Paff. " .rnui? handker; f large enough to hold ' fur chief. This fashion 7ft "Mt0m I expedient, as the PrJ fhX ? has no pocket. Th. ahPJ h tb I Vrt or vest peeping ou""1 " , pfn k 7' straight Jacket fro JJJ S- 9 need not be made6 I Ing a handkerchlesia in ndjJt I 'iS. Beneath the crave ,s """ ndy. the same time t t Kg An "mine crav J qwouWb, 3 cream or wh to r"-J- iot tW il very attractive "s Vl J Kttf pockeu ' tJSfy.oi ill' |
