Show Salt Lake Girl Describes the bit LAC bi-t ES dustry Il in > Brussels Where Dream I LruLL I of Woven Thread Is Made r I I 1 rrrrcir COKRKSPONDENCE StraasLoinjj Aug 1 21 Beautiful Brussels the city of hill and of vistas I Turn hers turn there between trees or buildings there opens before between you in the distance a most charming view In thin way Is It always full ort or-t delightful surprises In the old purl 1 within the outer boulevard It which noW in i1 form of promenades take old walls enough the place of the arc crooked it treeis high gabled houses corners and red tiled roofs to I juLlln1 satisfY the desire for the quaint and the picturesque while in the boulevards fthemiclves the new buildings l and the Mini parka there Is nothing io atTend the modern nose IN 1 THK HEA11T OF BRUSSELS > The Grand Place is the heart of Brussels Around this open space area are-a number of buildings in Gothic and Renaissance style the most interesting 1 among n hick is the Hotel de Vllle said to ho with thc exception of the one In LOUval lllf finest In Belgium In this there mw two rooms that specially at jlrhct the great ball the scene of the Lord Mayors entertainments for its line oak panels 1 and ceiling and its tapestries and the marriage hall for jHiUlment Since a civil marriage IH re Jqiiirccl in addition to the religious ceremony all people married In the city of Brussels must come to this hall for the civil rile It is approached by two staircases the Lion staircase and the Brand staircase I The former is used by the poor people while the latter Is for the grand ladles you know the great Indies wIth the long trains and the guide here made a telling gesture ges-ture to Indicate the length of the trains To enter by the grand staircase costs the groom SJO a sum that goes Unto the citys charity fund The hour for these civil marriages Is from 10 to 5l2 oclock In the morning and Saturday Satur-day Is the popular day HANDSOME CATHEDRAL The cathedral Is a splendid stone edifice edi-fice situated most impressively on the side of a bill so that It Is reached hiy a long flight of steps It was a relIef re-lIef after the cumbersome brick Dutch I cathedras Its plain round pillars are beautiful in their simplicity and the j stained glifs that recalls thc wealth of j glass In Milan cathedral is exquisite in coloring the earlier being a rich blue in its foundation tone while the modern Is red and green On another of the hills is the modern Palnis d1 Justice larger than Si f Peters cathedral ac nome Massive commanding oveipowurlng It stands above everything else in Brussels The jclty jilsins to demolish noo houses to the j left of it to add a terraced garden Naturally Its situation makes It one of the hI < d place from which to get a i general view of the city and surround lags PICTURE GALLERY BECOMES TIRESOME 0 Whether a picture gallery is tiring or not depends very much on the arrangement arrange-ment of It 3 cannot imagine one gettIng get-ting tired In the Brussels I gallery of old masters On the first floor is a large octangular court with a makebelieve garden In the center and modern sculptures sculp-tures arranged not KO much as though they wore on exhibition but asa as-a part OL the Intended decoration of the I court of I a large house Above on the four sills run wide corridors which I ui open toward thy court below The walls of these are hung with pictures of the later Flemish school among t which is Rubens Coronation of the Virgin 1 picture with more spirituality spiritu-ality than most of his Other rooms enuring off fiom the corridors ate given up lo the old Flemish and Dutch nmsltrs and miscellaneous works Fill out the picture of this gallery of painting paint-ing and sculpture from any good guidebook J guide-book then imagine the people who come to get something from it something that will sink into their lives and i make tlum unconsciously better They art1 not the pM cmally conducted parties of tourists who do the whole gallery In an hour They arc the poor workman work-man In his blue blouse the heavily r laden char woman and the rough peasant who hate dropped in for a half hour before one or two objects in the i t Intervals ot their work They will come again and again and again and the re milt we Sot In the sheaves of rye the I pastry cakes and the shop windows Those people get from It that which I makes It possible for them to live contentedly con-tentedly in their sphere of life These constant glimpses of beauty make their work unlnirdensome 1 WI RlZ inJSI url ur-l ul there Is a gallery in Brussels a small one the like of whose pictures I think Is not to be found I refer to the VIertjj museum so called because of Its being the house of the artist given over to an exhibition of his works KlB gigantic canvases In which lIfe filvsc and heroic figures throb with life how his wonderful Imagination and marvelous power of depleting suffering patience vcngcance in fact every human hu-man passion 1 His pictures are gory honiblc in a way to look at for he dealt for the most part with the ter Ilhlc passions and the unpleasant re llElonrs and mythological subjects yet in spite of this they fascinate by the Elon they all tell of the mighty stirring stir-ring In tht artists toul his grasping after something he felt and saw but t qould not fully repress He has made us we a prrt of his great thought but only a part of if Despite the cfleml t nato character of Christs face his Triumph of Christ Is perhaps the most satisfying of his pictures ClTY OF HILLS 1 U the beginning of my letter I spoke pr MiMclb bolng a city of hills It re nlnda nu somewhat of San Francisco n tills respect but In San Francisco s I you are pulled up the hills by electric s t can whllc In Brussels horses are the f f Jiuiilng power An extra pair of horses LH pus on going up so the fare up hill Ii is I Jut double that going down HereIn t t na Here-In other Belgian Dutch and German I 1oI1 you are given u slip of paper r similar to our transfers that serves asa t as-a lectipt for your fare This is given you by the collector of faros and If you wish to transfer t he leaven your ref re-f YPt bur if I not he tests off one corner I A few minutts later a controlletu in iIQli along asks to see your receipt r i nu chtclw up a la spotter on Amerl can It tins Many young boys 11 I to H 18 Ilr < Poyed as collectors There n doo rclc two asses on thc street cars The R tin Ote lars are divided by a parK par-K uuon and thc flrstclasH compartment is Li MIr18Jlloneti while In the open cars Ii there t l 111 III difference exec P t In price trat k t and iiT 1 > 0 < itiorm the two front soata being ti the rtioi fleco dcIaHs The fare for ordinary K dialatiem c within the city is ten cen If I times f3 cents for sccondclaas and I t upsets < 3 centri > or 11rJt Jur > oomc hJrl 1 distances there Is n fare of five centimes cen-times or 1 cent The cars have placards telling how many places there nn twelve to twenty seats Inside and six to eight places on the platform What seemed strange tome to-me was that welldressed women even when there were plenty of cats would remain standing on the platform the price being the same WOVEN HPI liAD It Is maddening however to go through the shop district of Brussels j in cither a streetcar I or a cab for you i want to take a look at those dreams of woven thread playing the siren In every window Do not make the mistake mis-take of thinking It is only the women that are fascinated by thorn A young American gentleman confessed to me Oh my hUll did want a pocket full ml of money when I was in Brussels The lace is simply delicious yes delicious and 1 Just wanted lo end my mother moth-er and every nice girl 1 know a piece of that lovely lace > The adjective sounds like a girl 1 but it simply shows the effeminate influence of lace upon the masculine sex Even men of mature ma-ture years become affected Tho tlirec adults of our party had been out on some matters of business and separated sepa-rated the doctor supposedly returning to the t pension to keep the little girls company airs K to attend lo Home shopping and I to the kodak to look after some negatives A halfhour later as I wa going to the main kodak office of-fice 1 I came upon the doctor quite in the opposite direction from the pension 1 pen-sion feasting his eyes onlace IiACE IS CHEAP It is a very slender pocketbook indeed In-deed that cannot carry away from 1 Brussels a bit of real lace for it can be bought for 5 cents a meter or a franc 25 CCl1t for a collar turnover or ao cents for a handkerchief The trouble is the owner of the slender pocketbook wants not only real lace but line real lace and that Is beyond her limit Real laces may be divided Into two classes those made with the needle point and known as some variety of point lace and those made tvitlt bobbins and called f bobbin or plllon laces The point laces arc the finest requiring the most careful care-ful and dainty worl and therefore are the most expensive There are strictly speaking only two kinds + of point lace made around Brussels the Venetian point and the Brussels point Tho design de-sign for point laces is drawn on parchment parch-ment with a dark ground Around the edges of the flowers leaves or figures of the design is sewed a coarse thread or several I iliu I ones twisted together This is I for tin foundation simply and the stitches so used are made as frw as possible for after the lace Is lln Ished they must all be cut away to free It from the pattern Then the figures are filled In with different kinds of stitches The ground is mndc of a fine network every stitch of which Is done by needle The foundation threads following fol-lowing I the design are then buttonholed to form the relief Venetian point differs dif-fers from Brussels point In three ways Usually though not always the design l I I has a closer effect secondly l the ground Is not a simple gauze network but is a purled guipure thirdly all the 1 flower edges and scrolls arc very heavily buttonholed but-tonholed buttonholing being done upon buttonholing and often thousands of Inflnlleslmnlly small loops are dried to lighten Hit effect Venetian point In the richest of laces Brussels loin the daintiest Both of these laces arc + made in many parts which arc most deftly sewn together It Is seldom Unit one person makes a single piece It look 300 persons four months in make the wedding veil of Princess Beatrice at a cost oC 5000 Point applique lace Is made by the application of either point lace medallions or bobbin lace figures fig-ures usually the latter upon a ma chinemade net The sowing of the HK ores on the not Is done by hnnd thru Is with the ne Ule hence the term point applique BOBBIN Oil PILLOW LACES Bobbin or pillow laces are made of silver gold cotton linen or silk thread The equipment I for making them consists con-sists of a Dlllow or cushion about afoot a-foot and a half by two feet stuffed with fine straw sawdust or wool the design In perforated cardboard brass m pin varying In size according xo the fineness of the lace brass is used to prevent Iron rust bobbins that resemble resem-ble miniature ninepins nnd lastly the thread Sometimes the cushion rests on a stanl In front of the worker but I usually Is i held on her I knees The design is stretched noon the cushion the thread Is wound on the bobbins from rIght to left and so tied in a loop at tire too that ii suns off Mn > luithn when llfbllv null1 I ifnvKv o I h nM the threads are attached to the pins that have been stuck in the cushion at the beginning of the design me worizer interweaves the nounins i using them in pairs and places one of the brass pins in each perforation of the pattern crossing the bobbins after each Insertion of a pin The bobbins not In use are held back by a large pin or some other device so they will not become be-come entangled The number of bobbins bob-bins varies according to the pattern from twenty or forty in a simple one to as many as 300 In an elaborate one In making the narrow cour o torchon edging marked as No 1 In the photo thirty bobbins Were used The workers work-ers throw the bobbins so rapidly that I you wonder bow they follow the put tern correctly but they seldom make a mistake The finest of bobbin laces are the Chantllly and the Valenciennes Chant Illy Is made entirely of silk thread occasionally in white but it lathe I la-the black Chantllly that Is popular only a little of this Jn comparison with the other kinds Is made around Brussels VAT EXCI XNES LACE Valenciennes lace Is known by Its square or diamondshaped mesh Its arabesque border made in close stitch and Its purled edge It Is generally supposed sup-posed that this is an inexpensive lace and so It I is In the quality and designs which the most ol UH arc accustomed to htiylmr but Valenciennes when made of the finest thread Is like a cobweb and commands a very high price Duch esse lace proper hr i a bobbin lace but In these days it ncaiMy always has a medallion me-dallion of point lace Inserted at Inter stitches worked lac cols or a few point I hi somewhere in tins t doslgn H Is the Brussels laces moL popular of the Brustiels fashion in the become Lately I 1 It has America for the ladies to make what they call real point lace The term IB incorrectly used for only that purl made vlth the needle Is point and only that made by hand Is I real The of braid they use for the foundation their work is made by machine there imitation of the Duchejse braid fore an mule with bobbin Point laec baa no stock in braids A good quality Duthessc lace costs from Sa to g10 CoDtlnuoa on pace 21 II The Makilg tf Lao Continued from page 2 i > cheaper grades for S2 and 15 1 A fair five or sixinch wide bertha costs 1 1 or 10 a very good one from 12 to 5lii and very handsome ones from S20 to 2i 1his is I not the limit you can pay up Into the eighties I or even hundreds If you wish 01 these articles but I am giving the prices thai come vlthln the neans of the average traveler In many articles on lace the term Duchesse Is i artees used for the lace called point applique ant Honlton Is used for what I have called Dnchesse I have used the terms as they are set In Brussels and Bruges by the workers ant the experts in the Mholesale houses After the Duchcsse lace in value comes the Flemish a coarficr lace that is a SOIt of doss between the Aaleu eiennes and the Duchehse This Is creamy In color1 cant remember seeing see-ing any pure white The Bruges lace Is similar t the Duchesse with no resemblance to the Valenciennes 1 Is simple In design and Is more oren in a light natural linen color than In white but without the yellOMish cast o the Flemish I is suitable for time large round and revere collars so very I fashionable nov These coat from 3 to 7 The lot ebon laces are the commonest com-monest and cheapest of the bobbin laces and aic made mostly by the scat lered workers In their homes HEART OF LACE INDUSTRY Brussels Is always spoken of as the liearl of the Uiec Industry It is time heart of the Mholcsulc and retail trade in laces Bruges of which 1 wrote last week is really tbe center of the lace industry Had f Mailed until I got to Brussels to see the real Morkers I would have been disappointed Brussels Brus-sels has magnificent MioMTOoms both of the finished i products and the processes pro-cesses You can see anything there from tiny butterflies and medallions to wax figuies Mlth trained dresses and bridal veils the patterns the cushions cush-ions the bobbin and so on but the welldressed ouig vomen you fee throwing the bobbins do pot makp the laces for sale They arc there simnlv for how as an advertisement The I Morkers are in the convents the schools and the villages and Bruges Is the fjreatest ccnCer of the vorkerF There is scarcely 1 house there In the poorer quarters that does nol have Us lace pIlloM1 and every minute that can be snatched from the necessary cooking ia i given to vorklng1 the bobbins bob-bins I Is the one thing that the old women can do after they have become loo feeble for heavier work On pleasant pleas-ant days thc y all at work in front of their loU S 01 In the more crowded pail of the town in their llltlu SxlO court at the back of the house RIlING WOPvK TO CHfjnCH In the convents the work Is I all under the supervision o one of the bisters In the villager each wholesale house from Brussels has an agent or overseer who takes the orders from the bouse and assigns lie I parts 01 he I llOmic to the Individual Morkers or sections They then bring the vork to church with them on Sunday and receive I thoiV pay Limn t they may never lack for skilled workers to fill their orders the large houses support schools vherc only lace Is taught Where are these schools That IH a secret The managers man-agers are on their guard and vlll not divulge It No reporters tricks that T knew could entrap them They were too sharp for me V IMPORTUNED TO BUY Every visitor to Brussels knows how Insistent the clerks and even the man tigers of the retail houses are that you go In to look at their laces They even come out on the street If they see you so much as look toward the sign above and Invite you In Entrance Is free Is the sign above the door is the motto on their business cards and are the Mords Mlth Mhich they Invite you I I costs you nothing We are glad to show you and If you do not wish to buy that does not matter 1 presume I there l is not one person out of a thousand thou-sand who enter that comes out without buying some small piece Just enough to save his pride But all the lace people peo-ple were so insistent I decided to put them to the test so J chose the well known shop near the cathedral in the Place Ft Gertrude 1 sauntered along looked In the windows and started to move on A charming young woman came out and gave the usual urgent Invitation I hesitated I really cnnnol buy and although I should like to see the laces and the pioccss of making them 1 could not think of pulling pul-ling you to the trouble of showing me COSTS NOTHING TO LOOK Bui she insisted you need not buy I costs you nothing The manager here appeared and added his entreaties en-treaties so 1 went in and through the various rooms Finally found myself sealed at a table and collars handkerchiefs handker-chiefs butterflies btrlhas and all the other pretty confections In lace were being put before me and the prices given Jt Is very cheap I heard In my ears as a beautiful handkerchief Mas spread before me Yes I think It beautiful and reasonable but I cannot buy Jl I Is very kind of you to show me Oh just one leetlo souvenlr This leutie collar 1 will COlt you only fife francs And here Is one for four francs fifty Ah you will nol leaf Brussels without one leetie piece of lace You must Imagine the entieat ing lone of a lover I almost weakened on my resolution about tCStlng but V I concluded to sri It nul Again as politely po-litely as Vi 1 could 1 said I could not buy I remained looking at the pretty things but only a second The smiling lady stiffened and with a wave of her hand said Madame this May pleafe 1 was beIng shown the door There was one way 1 lea by which I might have saved myself from disgrace dis-grace even without buying and that was by asking for their card and sayIng say-Ing lying J will call again That is what the one out of a thousand who doesnt buy does But I was testing and I found entrance Is free but you are expected to pay to get out TjVCE I1AN1EE1tC Vii El PRACTICAL PRACTI-CAL However I learned there that a lace handkerchief which hud always seemed to me the least useful of lace things to buy is one of the mOEt pnu tlcal 1 You can tic it In a bow and wear IL at the throat or you can lay It with one point or corner toward you then fold each side coiner over that giving a twist to bring out the right side of the lace and lastly In t he same manner fold the upper corner l down thus t making a jabot of It Again the center can betaken be-taken out and the Lace used for either a square 01 pointed effect on a decollete gown Brussels The name will always bring visions of hills vistas and lace but from the sublime to the ridiculous ridicu-lous also of cauill or At last we have had cauliflower not thai Me are particularly devoted to cauliflower but we simply wanted our share of all that we saw fchipped from Holland JESSIE GODDARD |