Show 1 I I 1 i or o owo omot O O > soldotaoossotgoa O oipo > IDuoso os O O > N O t oaotoctorro > olkordotti O e O O otroroeosro > doto O > oroiroMo onosoaolPOS > oroi > ovo > 9o > RoEoflooor O > O > oEoSotr onoaotoaroaovot oe O iiO olot9otpotQOttoDto > > O OlllOOlO6OtiOlOHOfciOgl06 > o > o lJ oho oh Oa0 s > iO it 050 iC C O + A 0 03T 5 1 1 I I I 1 11 PARIS NOlELTES N WOMANS WEAR r II i I o fi G o a o o c o n o + 90530IB0eE0goe00og0itOg0eOJlOd0 o 0A0110 o OS10ag0 o t0 SOg0ilOrlOIA0 6fOetOgOdO rerOl n oailg0 0a0 t000QOEl0 a0QOdO Ct0a00 r r r oaoetomoq c ito oQO oaosto so o o ao aoelooAocsoao o os o oo o o ogo goisotgol o oaolgodo odoa oo7so oQO oetoao aolao lo toao s I Ql r PI ARIS Nov PThe autumn salon 5 t which took place in the Petit a in PARIS h palals on the Champs 3SIysees was a great tuccess On ver i i iI nissage or varnishing day the I crowd was limited to artists and the I I 1 ti mart set Besides the pictures there n was an exhibition ot statuettes and objects j I t ob-jects of art which proved a charming i 1 I addition to the usual collection It was difficult at times to turn from the living pictures formed by groups of picturesquely e pictur-esquely gown d women to the framed 3 > canvases on the wall Looking round i Ei this fashion show of new autumn modes worn by the Parisian her chic and gent gen-t eral modishness were once more brought home to me The secret of this E evidently lies in finding out exactly p 1 what suits her and In adapting what 1 1 happens tobe Jn vogue to her own particular i r titular style This is doubtless the reason l I I rea-son why the French woman Is never Incongruous in the matter of clothes i I The well turned out woman is not necessarily the one with the most to I spend on her clothes Many of the best I gowned women have the smallest allowances l al-lowances but they are sensible enough 1 to know just what Is becoming to them I ami to stick to It Especially Is this true of a one tone dress scheme the value of which cannot be overestimated li 1 by the woman who is obliged to make a r r rl l r little money bO a long ways Many women have a good Idea about u i the lines In a costume but rcsthetlc f I 1 color combinations are entirely beyond 1 them Some who look best in vivid + i I shades Insist upon wearing the dreariest drear-iest drabs and browns which for them I ° are nothing short of bad taste Then I too colors should be chosen with refs ref-s n erence to skin tints and wear above or r below the face Black Is generally sup i posed to be becoming but try a dull > black below the face and it will bring 4 I out the very worst points and add ten i years to ones appearance On the other 1 oth-er hand worn above the face the effect Is often refining and good The plain I girland the sooner she acknowledges her misfortune the nearer will be the unG u I remedy should dress more plainly than 1 i J her fortunate sister Fluffs and frills r sire not for her rather let her affect the r tailor made even in dressy toilets A F smartly gowned and groomed woman 1 r who studies herself Is often more attractive 1i at-tractive than the pretty one who thinks Ii all is fish that cornea to her net expensive S 1 ex-pensive If we buy wisely we need not purchase a great number For Instance i i In-stance every woman be she young or 1 old will long for one of the new supple I I I velvet frocks for her very best Tills S seemingly costly gown if sill has two Ill t t waists will prove a friend in need I F Tim second velvet bodice should be an 1 1 evening blouse cut low with a tranK I parent chenille sleeve and real lace i ruffles hanging In a graceful fall a bertha ber-tha t of the same lace fitting smoothly I round the dccollctage For day wear with the skirt have an unjnod blouse i I bodice held in place by a boned and fitted tl t fit-ted corselet fastened wlth a fancy buckle 1 buc-kle 1 kleA i i A further addition which could be worn in the house or street alike Is a r 1 crossover fichu trimmed either with c e fur or ruchlngs of taffeta i i A sensational gown which trailed i around the salon was of while cloth I with squares of thick lace over a I Itt I S P k I flounce of moleskin The small sack bolero was of cloth with a wide collar of lace Inserted with a band of this fashionable fur A hat photographed at least a dozen times was a long turban with a deep r r curtain o taffeta hanging all around the brim It was quite the ugliest thing in the way of a hat one can Imagine though it was the production t of a celebrated cele-brated milliner and as such was severely se-verely criticised Theo is a talk among the authorities authori-ties of making the lulls on bubqued coats adjustable This alteration as you see does not promise much for the popularity of the new shape Many of the coats have collars of oriental embroidery em-broidery In very bright colors such an scarlet vivid green and royal blue on light grounds These fancy mile jackets jack-ets arc finished with cord braid and silk tassels The hackneyed galloons of last year have given place to really exquisite varieties many of the expensive expen-sive new galloons being carried out In hand embroideries Do not be too much enamored of the button trimming A few handsome enameled ones judiciously used on a costume aro really smart but a hailstone hail-stone shower of them Is actually shoddy shod-dy The best cnuturieres are using them with discrimination and I think as the season advances only beautiful specimens will be seen At this time of the year we are all interested in furs and on the whole r they will be even dearer than ever Tile woman who has a sealskin coat will have it converted into a jaunty little bolero There are two styles the Parisian ic favoring One has a wide cape falling below the shoulders attached at-tached on each side of the opening with heavy cords and tassels In passemen torle and fur The bluuvea arc wide at the wrists and caught Into bands of fur ornamented with dangling cords Tho jacket blouses both baclt and front and Is finished by a waistband of stitched taffeta which Is hardly noticeable Tho second model has wide pagoda nlccves turned back with a band of ermine This while fur also forms a band round the neck and fastens with a handsome passementerie ornament either in blue and black or black and groen This touch of color in conjunction with the ermine makes a very stunning effect on a seal coat Everything In the fashionable fur line is a la taupe this season The much exploited petit grin of yesterday has met its Waterloo and the moleskin now reigns Vive la taupe is the dernier crl It Is a case of put a beggar on horseback l and see how he will ride The despised little mole has ridden right into favor and a mount Is expen sive I can tell you the coats ranging from 150 to very much up In this particular fur the sack shapes are considered con-sidered more elegant than the bolero The most expensive coats are trimmed with ermine or heavy embroidery In a lighter shade than the fur and the embroidery em-broidery Is manipulated Into charming hood effects drawn tightly about the shoulders An artlol has to construct this capuchin hood if it is to be a success suc-cess Chinchilla will not bo seen much this winter but all the other furs are in evidence Including the t long haired monkey which has been out of favor for some time 1 t4 one objection to moleskin Is that It I will be merely a passing fancy It is the vogue now and the woman of ultra fashion must be seen with some of the fur about her The introduction of antique an-tique gold and silver Is attractive used with discretion on fur garments For instance a high directolre belt of gold studded with semiprecious stones very becomingly cuts In half a loose fronted bolero with a long basque The cravat and wrist fall of lace are other elegant additions of the swagger fur coat As the mole Is supreme among furs we have adopted the color of his skin as a favorite shade for gloves mousse hues velvets and cloths To be truly I Parisian one must have an afternoon frock of black mousseline de sole trimmed trim-med with narrow bands of mole and five 1 deep ruffles of the material or lace on the skirt 1 The dainty bodice has a Louis XVI fichu and bouffant sleeves the fullness below and above the elbow being held with bands of the brown furAlthough Although the full skirt which threat r i Ii I 4 N afJf iii I l n 3 J 1 I p 1 r 1 L q Y f 7 U I f e e > I I t r3 4 O it 9 r k i pry Ill 1 e k r Fhr 1 Y Y I a 4a i v EARLY WINTER PARISIAN COSTUMES ons the crinoline Is to the four the fitted fit-ted flounce is still quite an much employed em-ployed only in its latest development it la hidden by cunningly contrived tucks bands and ruchings Ribbon ruffles run with velvet are another revived re-vived trimming and on tho new shot taffeta gowns are extremely quaint The tailors are bringing into prom inence a deep Indian red and a lapis lazuli blue both very effective as artistic ar-tistic high lights In a toilet or In some cases for the entire costume An evening even-ing cloak In red cloth with a plaited stole of black taffeta trimmed with Algerian Al-gerian embroidery has the double advantage ad-vantage of being Inexpensive and becominG be-coming Paquin displays a stunning lapis lazuli lazu-li chiffon crape The full skirt Is adorned adorn-ed with three wide tucks which are almost al-most a trademark of this artist Above the tucks appears a broad band of string lace insertion The material is gathered gath-ered round the waist several times but 1S the crape Is so pliable it takes up little lit-tle room and there Is no suggestion of cumbersomeness Under the short bolero bo-lero is a blouse of almond green satin and a large string lace collar encircles the shoulders and fastens with a green satin bow at the bUst There Is a new lace that is trimming satin and velvet gowns this year It Is a combination of crochet and netting upon a wide mesh which gives the effect of fringe The shamrock possibly in honor of the popular Irish yachtsman is a favorite design on laces and satins Speaking of satin there Is a soft delicious deli-cious uncrushable texture called satin Venus A fine silk crape with raised empire wreaths of roses In pastel colors on white ground Is charming for fancy waists evening frocks and tea gowns All the plaited and gathered skirts obtain the required billowy fullness at the feet by means of rows of thin feath erbone run In a secretive fashion around the bottom The petticoat of the day also receives an attention hitherto hith-erto unknown A few ruffles gathered on a gored skirt do not spell success by any means The up to date flare Is effected by a boned fitted flounce adorned with a succession of lace or ribbon trimmed flounces and ruches When economy must be practiced a perfectly fitted upper skirt of moreen will do duty for a number of different colored silk flounces which may be buttoned but-toned on the upper section at will CATHERINE TALBOT |