Show I NEW EMPJRE CRAZE0 1 I I I r J AigJon1 Napoleonic aiichJosephfnc Models I in Strong Ar 1 4 rayShoft Blouse JacketsNew Is and Guffs iTi I 1 1 r I vii IKmplie Istliewarery of the season oid verily the empire syles havtt I come In With such a rush and so fully taken posseNslon of the shop windows that other styles seem and show cir es In the vanishing point to be moving to the background between I A hot conflict has waged styles of the quaint and bouffant Ideas of the LoulG Qualorzc period and the allnight mjijestlc lines of the Empire JtSt Wit looks as If the Empire were enjoying i the full Hush of victory for a splendTuNassemblageof Alglon Napoleonic Napol-eonic and Jo6ephlne garments are mar forth r shaled i Particularly in wraps cloaks capes and coats are those styles < dominant arid their aspect Is too charjmingly tlstlc and delightful to be resisted < < even by women whose stature Is far from Tennysons Daughter ofsthe Gds dj vinci toll V Indeed the straight long cloak Is strictly the orroct thlng forUhesea son and will be generally adopted even where other Empire effects fall to win Hats of course must correspond Avlth wraps and cloaks and upflaring brims which boldly reveal the brow and are decorated with gay cockades are everywhere every-where on view Of course tho short jacket dies hard for especially In the fall and spring aro they a positive necessity In this line I I the blouse thebox coAt and the trig t J nllltat Y Jttclccillotd hlglr lankinfnsh lops court some of the new blouse jackets are soI I attractive as to rank evenly with the I Empire models and their position In this day of Empliemadness Is but the strongest proof of their style I and charm 1 Bqfore v punglngInLo chat and descriptions de-scriptions oX the alluring Empire coats I must paus to make my how to these wInnlngMttle wraps They appear In I velvets fcorduroys furs and cloths and will I perHaps outline the mor cxtiemc styles of their longer l contemporaries I Many of thorn have the same sleeve i which the Empire coats so pioudly1 I bcJQr and now and again there are tother i cffpits at combining features I thcsp widely I different styles on one Garment Gar-ment ns In the collaV buttons and trimming A blotihp which stood side by side Inn In-n FIJ1 cnuc vh dbw with lofty companions com-panions of the Empire was truly royal j Iln i Its splendid simplicity It was rof black velvet somewhat long of nap and t lustrous and beautiful In quality Its only ornamentation was a band of gold embroidery which was used to form the collar and girdle and also to outline the reveres which were arranged to open in front and disclose their glittering em broidery or to fold modestly one within with-in the other and allow the Jacket to fasten quite snugly to the throat The sleeve were novel and especially smart I I The velvet sleeve ended below the elbow el-bow with a slight flare and the underI I i 11 = = I r FALL CYCLING COSTUME 4 I t 1g7wz7 L jJi I I I pJJrr 1Jfl I t II v I I i t 1 j t 9 I I II W I J I1 I kk joI il I I Ld e i I 1 t I r I f L 1 1 f 1 > jIi 1 1 < i I I I I L t I J N Brown cloth costume trimmed with stitched strappings of tho same cloth Tho circular nklrt has nn Inlaid plait at time back rho Jacket fronts arc connected bv two Vahapcd straps of brown velvet Tho belt Is brown leather w A PERFECT WRAP I 1 g I Li i 1f 1 r t = LL iH1 L I I P 1 i I 44d cIr cI-r E v h47 1 jI c I i fm 4 1 if 1 l f 11 r V < 1 i This magnificent coat of black broadtail ha a jwblo yoke that sceniln well 5 over flrrjlnI hn fcllnlllrlrH rld rlrr Icli collar and a linIng throughout or tho I1ncst i3 1 3A 1 h h DISTINCT TYPES 4 z A 4 P WPi c YiP 4M a I tsJ r f i I Ilyy m rA pc 1 lr 4 A r1 r rJ L t i it j 4 J f J 1 f K1 1 4 I I iN I I J i I i r L J i 1 dj J 1 f t 1 i1 4iI I 1 54it5 rJlL L I Tho flL costume la an example of < the new belted blouse allies and an admirable model for the autumn maids cloth I tallormnde It Is built of grape red bnWlcloth and trimmed with a lighter shade of the same cloth decorated with man J1nc of oiiiciInK The vest la made of vOl1Ot Cut low showing In the Vshaped opening Limo taffeta waist and necktie Tho iVli I 01 made also of velvet Large tlllcrco butttoiw aie set on cich side of time front of this jacket PhT ocS model Is Tln EmflJt coat of tft tan cloth wLLh InUd Watlt and sIeves CUffS md collar oe brick J reel 1 clvot The oH hot Is brick red ML wllh bn velvet binding and chou v sleeved 7 > 11 f11 supplemented those of velvet were vi tucked black silk Instead In-stead of following hcj nwm custom of these undersleeves and tormhn a lit1 tie puft or blouse at the wrist which oomes Into a tight band this sleeve WItS clll lo form fu second bell < at f the wrlgt Which ttfl horTtev with u band gold fcnbroiderpd i Th Alglon cloakfl ana papes iov cVer ale ttlo favorites anft nothing could be lovelier that the various guises ar1ngc capecdi l in winch theyappear lars fluttering with nthrjeroMH overlapping overlap-ping Klds fall over the shoulder to the essetitiat breadth at the top give and long which these soVetely straight garments demand illeu too the neck is smartly dqcked with colJara which stand afoft and turn batik hi plcturv uare corners esquc A captivating square Alglon model which is I I i II I IJ p j 1 1I I > iiiF I 1 Tho OraL slcovo boasts an upper fllcovo or accordion kllteil chlffou or moussellno do sole pndlnp above tho Mbow with t I draped frill Of I laco to displq the plain tinder sleeve Tho Bccond provides a good shirt slcevo thickly gathered to below the elbow whero tho fullness IB fixed Into tucks above the deep plain band r displayed at one of our largest and most progressive department stores Is of a charming shade of pal French gray broadcloth and IH a long cape built In lluee sforrcV alf sweeping cn tralne In the back It isa model l Intended i In-tended for demlloljette and might well do service ato ball oV the opera though by 1 no means so dressy an to look out of place for fternotm teas receptions I calling or the theater The long under cape which torms the foundation Is of circular cut and fits stfmewhat snugly to the flguro flaring like a bellrslmpcd skirt at the bOttdinl vhfro it forms a train A second cape reaching within a foot and a half of the llortt1 falls over the first pne and follows lime lino of the train In a graceful pont In the back The third falls from the shoulder where It emerges from a deep yoke nearly to the knee and also droops to along a-long and graceful point in the back This aequcnce of overlapping capes are unmarked or ulsClnguIshed by stitching or trimming or any I sort and are simply cut at the edges the firm close weave of the heavy cloth al wIn w-In this treatment without loss of elegance ele-gance or llnlHh and with decided gain of artistic ensemble as the line of de markatlon between the three tiers Is so softened as to maintain tin unbroken uniform effect The yoke which extends well over fle shoulders and to which tan Empire collar Is joined Is of cell blue broadcloth covered wltlr narrow lines of alternate gold and black braid which gives a rich rdcoco effect upon the bluii ground The larae high coH lar with Its dashing folding back flap Is also of the bluu hralded 1 with gold and black Gold braid as Indeed a touch of gold everywhere appears upon all ofthcu new model wrapsaJid thlfc fs indeed aJ glided age In the fushlonHl j Other Alglon Empire wraps follow I to 4 < BROCADED SILK ETON n H f I R7z r I t i J d v JII I < 4 1 ii J i r ft S I L S V i d I S f G i 1 14A V S I te t JiflzfI VI I l 1 I Ut i il r = a S r I I 5 r i t L I lt r4i 1k Z If I I f jS I I r l L V I Jt u I I < t S 4 1 S il S R tilV I i I I < > S 4c4 j 1 i II a 1 S I Silk brocade is lo I bo very much used this winter for elegant coats Ihe win I tr look necessary Is given bycloth Btrapplngs on cdgw and seaniH and collar in IH model has a collir of Persian lamb oil gnu with ermine I the cloak l lines l and are shaped to the I figure straight lines these bear the hewing sleeve with Its under sleeve und I wristband the numerous names of uhleh lead to great contusion It Is I called with l Indifference The Kox one The Alglon The Plngat and The Paquin but Its names are perhaps per-haps less numerous than Its varied forms though there 1 sat Catch as catch can method of fixing the form and name together It may be apropos to digress here from my subject of wraps and Empire styles and say a few practical words about this all popular sleeve which dominates almost nilof the nev > fA3h lon Ideas It has been working its way to the front dining the Nrlll1 and summer sum-mer t nd now appears toh ive superseded super-seded all other forms Tho plain sleevi is altogether obso l I lete and stomps the mast IfctcHlng i wniHt the every day blanse and shirt wnlst excepted b It understood as t being left by the tide of a past i fashIon fash-Ion Some pulling fullness below the I elbow Is requisite to a smart and up 1 todatc appearance Xow It Is quite a simple affair to transform this oldtime sleeve I into the modern one with a little 1 1 lit-tle work and Ingenuity and even leas i I new material I All of tinso many named aleevcs have i t a pffing at the bottom some coming J fiorn a cuff placed above the elbows j HomO from beneath a widely Jlo1ng nppor 8lpovp and som IlmI r11rrr r 1 1 Ing from a TTanH ot trimming such as velvet straps passementeriebands of embroidery or Jet To give the old plain sleeve this modern mod-ern touch material must he cut away 1 cbk S Model for alccve of cloth tfiilormado nn I at the wrist to a C LhoC two and a half Inches aiolind the Inner seam and curved up see diagram No 2 to the depth of four ihchPH at the otifcr part I of the sleeves carefully leaving the original lining untouched see shaded portion of No 2 for upon this foundul tlon the trimming should be arranged This trimming be of a bit offancy silk velvet lace or 1avn according to what Is at hand and what combines f I most artistically with the material oC I the alsr The strip 110uld be thirteen I and onehalf Inches in length live Inches In height itt the center and three and onehalf Inches In height at I the ends where It is i Joined to form the I puff The bane which encircles the wrist should be eight Inches long and 1 yne und a flimrter vUle The pun miiMt be gathered top and bottom theupper part attached to the sleeves and the lower to the wristband Thesleeye can be finished twjtlx embroidery the high ly I favored gold t braid or u passemen terie The band at the wrist may bo filled in the sane way or a stitched band of the material of the waist may 1 be used Among the newest fads are stocks which i 1 Introduce the prevailing gold trimming In the main they follow th lines of the stock which has been worn some time tho Innovation lng en tirely In the Lhegoid decoration nmo art oT black vcJveJL with lur > e < l over pomn of white moussellne eclgeu l vkltb rots I of tiny gold braid jujd having a land of gold vlbtaoji whlqh Js UnotlHl at th base of thp collar rhe gpld ribbon Is about an Inch In wldfh with ends six inches In lenglli 1 Jlnlshedwllh I little dangling labMjOf gold filigree I Other tockfx a r p of while chiffon with jlneg rJf gqldorald between itn tiny folds have thcs < turned oor points of go 1 demlfroklery 1 while the ribbon whlch lK Allotted about It may be of black Velvet edged on one side Svfth gilt brala and Hnlshed with the S toba goldTTitlRree Manyof Ihcse stocks have clffto matchwhlth add mpst effcctrvciyto the cOstume with which they arbVorri J 3ATIN I1IERVEILLBUX J t MEIIVEILLEUX DINNER db r I < f t f S I J 1 S > r I i j i J1 I I nr o 4 I j iL 4 t i r I < i r J J l z it f 1 J jb 0ft i f i I ti Jflffl1 t l I IJ < 5 ii L 1 J r3r1l 1 11 t I t f 1 ltt i1 I l 11 I 1 c I I V1 fi r 4 1 I 5 I 1 LI 1J ± r CL1 k4 A h 57 iflf S F rIth rI q 4 Lckll S c czTti J 1 I f J1 H LVi1 1 r JJ J IJ k 1 D j 4f f Jlj Ic J 1 I J It > i > 6 I I t i I I i LL < r J fro r I I I y It f 1 I II1 I U k 4 q 1 j This elegant blue satin dingier toilette has a skirl frontwof soft India mualln and llchu and sleevelets of the same A ileop border of the muslin pHquo edges the bottom the klrl front There ur6 narrow bands of silver embroidery galloon hut lonlnir olrijo tnrln wrist S |