Show JI V r y > Till Vrv1 i Q r L L y 1 ijOVv TO I Kf up COTTON ijOVNS J A Hint I to Stout Women About Their MaterialA Stylish Suit in Pj tie Wh j to f Organdie Vith Black Trimming 8 0 How to make upthcrVciitlon frocks Is a problem now volkjng villhin he I dainty head of the smart ghJ who has invested i in an unusual 1 supply of light cotton materials to take her through the summer months She Hilda that a wonderful variety and number of costumes cos-tumes can be had in cotton materials at hair the expense of the regulation h summer silks crepes anal veilings und c she Is clover enough to sec that uoth Ing she can wear In the more expensive expen-sive stuffs could give her the same air of breezy coolness and refreshing elegance ele-gance But If J she Is stoutly built and too generously supplied with adipose tissue I her cotton gowns become a very uncertain un-certain problem to her she feels that they lack that delicious case and convenience con-venience for her which they hold for slighter women and she concludes that they are something of a snare and a delusion This Is because her drcsa nmker insists upon treating them quite seriously and constructing them upon as linn f foundation as n regular silk or woolen sown having whalebone linIngs lin-ings and every sort of warm and tin comfortable device to give them solidity solidi-ty and a sufficient compactness l to hold her ample figure In shipshape Now after they have been pottered over and hammered Info sufficient stiffness the main charm of these gossamer cotton goods Is Jost Vilh firm foundations and whalebone scamp they evade the renovating Influence of the iliiliron and soon present a crushed and haggard aspect Tit this day when the shirt waist or blouse seems to take a fresh lease on life at every Hmngo of season t when old and young fat and thn are alike swathed In Its easy folds It seems a little dull In fat women to have failed to discover ihut their figures appear SHOWING THE NEWOLD GATHERED WAISTs WAIST-s air ttti = < t f r A r + i it ft I S ur 1 IL fr I It rl J r l I r l i 7 < 1 < < I ff1 fj S r T b n t I J T I fir f I I I r This imported Pans gown of blue and white foulard has as its distinguishing distin-guishing feature a round waist gathered back and frontIt is low and I has a border of three gathered rufflesThe upper portion is white satin covered with white embroIderyThe skirt is gathered nearly allay the all-ay across the back and has a dcepaccordeonplnltcd flounce set o in points TRIMMED WITH DYED LACEy < LACE-y f f Ft itt i t t gtt f i r r h + J t a f 1 iL < = i aI 1 1 1 LJ R p r I I + C r 1 47 I a tr i rr I A I J 0 1 L J Ja 1 1 r r i i I N J iI I 4l i t r I j iI i r f Jf I It rf u i t k > 1 1 i f Thin novel gown is built of one or the Prettiest of thee 1111d fe trimmed with guipure prllllrd loulard1 pale nasttoA drlt1fry of cyan dyed moussdlll to match the do rrnund s which in i a cola r holdOt drapes the T11r a Wiiithand lgllllel pI v t rlbbon j I f TV0 ELEGANT COATS a I T 0 > b I V < r kf T eji j r 1 III I I e < JkW m xxMfeif m 1 re 51 r 1 r a y f 1 v7 r 5rl Ld f J C 1 i l I 5 rCh s C r k 1 I l 1 r f r 1 r 1 ti trte ns = i J + l tl l 1 C r 1 ire I i + r ° l s u 1 l ° Ind 1 ry I r I la rl 1 I t l y r a r S I r I i r J a I nr It r = r II 11 I r I J ll Ill I r I 1 II i 1 r 5 I + t a 1 I la 1 I 1 I I I t e n I I r r r r IY II 1 1r I B r IJ I + r a t it r I I L i tZ t ii r y i f r I Ira r ra i tt Jrtrr I t I I I I I I r n 1w h I I Y tfrJ I I I II IIi I II ll i r I d I 1 II lid li-d f I Lot Y III I r R jl 1 I 1 I 1 I t 1 1 fiY V I j i I I 1 1 o 1 r I y I t I I I I I c t r I 1 11 II I I I i I I I II p iI d t i I 11 s A tar r n r Ih iI I I I 1 i I t l e l l I I I i i L r ° i l i I r II I I I I 1 I 1 71 f II II I I r A f trrr iI I II I 1 r1F I I I I r tit t f I f + F II I I I t r1Y r II I a I I I it 1 rl Ir II l t f 14 11 I to T dl r I I I I II I 1 I r I II I 1 1 rl I 1 + r 11 II 1 I a rt t II li f 1 II I II I y r I l g r r t P + e L < z jj This black peau do sole io a distinguished affair I About the edge is laid a deep application of boldly patterned black Luxeuil taco below which falls a chiffon frill ruched with silk gauze ribbonThe peau do soiq is set in stitched tucksAbout the neck is a broad ribbon velvetThe whole is lined with pale blue and ivory brocade The second coat is in another but no less fascinating styleIt is built of mastic cloth and has facings of figured psau de soie The plaits are Stitched the entire length of the skirtSuch a coat in pale cloth such as pastel blue or in heliotrope would be quite in the right spirit for a race or for the South 0WO STYLISH STREET GOWNS I r I u I II I 1 iI iI i p I I rt r 1 Jt HAt < HA-t fu I j t v I r t IYiIvr r II I r I I r f r 1 IcN I r t t 1 r P i Y i V rl mar i r y K t I r J ic n r + 1 4 i J I I I J I 1 < f > r y I > t I J 1 4 The first of these stylish gowns is a cloth with a large black and white Pltlkl o l t a ay groundThe jacket I is cut long over tile ips and opon front to shove a vr ltite vest stiappediit trout with a ctis o gi tty velvet rlbbou L irge pearl buttonsdeenrate She jacket frolitsThqirt 19 plain with a seals down the center and inverted pleats nt tho back The aEcoml g own 1 IP h bluocwivns l over whits taffeta and Is l artistically decorated with a scroll of blue and white cords Tixo bolero hawo a frtllo of whito taffeta to no worse advantage when outlined In light folds than when tightly encased en-cased In plovclUUncr basques which reveal their solid proportions In merciless merci-less baldness There Is I no reason why a cotton gown Hhou leI not be more becoming I Io I stout Jlgures than those I of heavier materials and provided a good corset Is worn and a wcllllllfd l undoisllp with a hndire boasting a few whalebones Is made to accompany these unllnod cotton foulards fou-lards inMsllns organdie or dimities the bulkieSt tor vomon may onj ry the relief and coolness of titji t e 1 lIght ina ONE OF THE NEW FLAT HATS L r Ji I I I I I I I 9 9r r A low crowned sailor of whito crepe do chine Worn tilted to one sido with two largo roses below the brIm The top is covered flatly with foliage and rosebuds with streamers stream-ers of black velvet ribbon at tho back and strings of the velvet ribbon rib-bon tied jauntily j under the chin lerlals without qualms or misgivings as to her outlines She may also onjov the consciousness that in the loss of that Hushed and moistened look which her relPiUlrjs tlghlllltlng rIlks call to her face attractiveness of her gen ural I appearance is I Immensely enhanced en-hanced Of course It Is always advlaa btu for large and stout women to affect dark tones and olldlyllnled good keeping the lines of their trimmings vertical rather than horizontal Thero arc very many lovely fabrics in shades of slate gray dark blue soft browns and black which can be effectively effec-tively handled to make cool and becoming be-coming summer gowns One of the most tasteful models I have wen this r year which was very suitable for a stout figure vas a black cotton otia mine having 1 an embroidered vine bc Iween the openwork ulrlpts of the rna lerlal A bodice of good 11 rm Iblaek I lawn which wlllJioi crock accompanied I accom-panied the gown anti was firmly ivhaleboned This wan all low l In the I neck and sleeveless The skirt was macho to drop over a skirl of the blade lawn cut with a flaring circular flounc the bottom of which was bordered by a rum and ruche of black net which held out the tipper skin of oitamlnc In the proper style at the foot The drop skirt of ouamlnr was lucked In small tucks bet 1 wen the openwork slrlpea t the tucks being released about eight t Inches above the hem Just 1 below tho line where the tucks were released was a band of bluk Insertion of antlil lily lace having a second band of white Vale + ilciennes Insertion beneath il This s band was bordered on both sides with a narrow white grosgrain ribbon and thrr bottom of the skirt had a doublelaro flounce of black Chantllly over while f Valenciennes lace The effect of the black lace over the while giving a curious shadowy look that was extremely ex-tremely light and pretty In the space between the bonds of Insertion and the double flounce of black and while lace o were several rows oC white ribbon The waist was cut on aMouse pattern with very little fullness having a delightfully de-lightfully cool and rornfortabl collar made of back and whit insertion held J up I on two whIL cased whalebones which were Invisible beneath the double dou-ble sheathing of white and black lar < > There was a little simulated vest on the front of the I blouse formed of the slrlpn of Insertion which extended from collar col-lar band to waist band This had twu small reveres or more exactly speaking 1 speak-ing Jabots cn cm h file which were c i n4 r 1 t rr iy wy 1 err V 14 V 1t e 1 J r r t J jStl tl r M i r 4 f1 IJ 1 Y i Pink is a very stylish color this year 1 in cotton materials This waist of I pink madras is relieved by whito I embroidery and turned back cuffs formed of the ollamlne bordered with avery a-very narrow double edging of black and while lace covered with close rows of the narrow while ribbon which was stitched down so thai it i might coin from under the smoothing iron unmarred un-marred and greatly refreshed But T did not mean to devote I so much of my letter to stout women for f started to toll nu of some of the stunning cotton gowns in the wardrobe of the smart young girl I will hgln with a suit of while pique with which I she wears a hat of the sane material I draped In1 plaid scarf of green and i white gauze The pique skirt Is made without tucks or box pleats having two Inverted pleats at the back anti cut so as to Hare at the bottom gadS gad-S fim Is strapped with a band of the piquo which Is I stitched down with many lines of stitching At the bottom bot-tom three rows of these strappings go around the skirt above the hem which is about four Inches deep The ICton jacket has a suitor collar and reverts of allover embroidery which is covered cov-ered with a lattlrework of these I slllchcd straps The sleeves flaro broadly just below the elbow and have large deep turnedback cuffs of tho embroidery strapped over I In thC winu way with stitched bands of pique A blouse waist of allover ftiilbroUUry I with sleeves that are qUill full at the wrist Is I worn with this suit which is as spruce and jaunty as you could 1 wish Another gown In her summer selection I selec-tion of a very 1 different character Is a white organdie I which is fascinatingly I bizarre und very striking The skirt Is made with a series of small pin lucks every third one of which shows a tiny hlack velvet ribbon peeping from beneath Its fold Near the bottom r bot-tom of the skirl I above the line where I the tucks are released to allow diilfi clent fullness about the feet are gal loons of black lace In design of low erod garlands beneath which the I I lucking I Is cut out The bottom of this < skirl has a hand of black velvet ribbon f r I about in inch in width with two of the f narrow velvet 1 bands a blwcll i The corsage la also formed of lie I lucked organdie hut the tucks an gathered In groups of three with the black velvet ribbon showing beyond be-yond the edge of the third tuck Tin space between the groups of tucks la I tilled in with an inserting of deep cream Renaissance lace The whole upper part of the blouse and sleeves aro made In LIds way The galoons of black lace are applied at the line of i the bust and give the appearance of a 1 I charmingly shaped yoke outlined with the black lace I The tucks are released n little distance dis-tance delow the lower edge of the ga loon to give a 1 pretty blouse effect at the waIst where the fullness Is gathered In a band A how of black velvet on one shouldor has long ends which fall to the belt which Is also of black velvet 1 vel-vet and one end Is caught in a buckle of rhinestones which fastens the narrow nar-row velvet girdle The sleeves are held In tucks to the elbow and the fashionable fash-ionable bulge Is given to the lower arm by letting out the tuoks narrow hand of black velvet about the f wrist forms thc cuff to the OaVnty sleeve and la clasped with a small rhinestone buckle This gown is one that typifies thin stylos I for summer and is exceedingly chic and charming I |