Show 41 i is Dilemma The Great Authorities Author ties on Dress Dr ss Say There Are No o More Freaks and Fancies to be Invented and and Chaos I Reigns Re g in in the Realms of the Mode I t New tew L t October Oc ob 1900 1000 Never e er has hasa f 1 a season of ot fashion been so barren of novelties and pd nii beauties as this From Paris conies comes comes the report r port that there is nothing now new that the dressmakers dr ar are L at their wits wI end for fresh ideas the without ut Inspiration l Worth TIa and despairingly de t dare clare that there ther are tre re no more freaks I and fancies of ot dress to be invented Perhaps the hot Parisian summer ummer mayl may j be the exposition is Isco co blame bame but 4 whatever is the cause chaos reigns in 1 i I I the realms of the mode We have rib no no system no patterns patter 6 to guide us any I c longer in our choice cholee of hats or our se I r of gowns Wear Year what you t for what you please is as au good i I fashion as anything else says the tailor furrier l I Ji i and anti milliner Wear Vear green or brown t or yellow cut cU t your YUu r skirt with a train trainor If or without rather father and pleat it at the 1 waist or let it tit fit the hips as a close as f i tb th the bark birk fits a tree tre hang 41 I tails ails to your coat and waist rais or chop ri I off both t under the arms con I I fusion arid lad had taste is given t 11 1 H 11 P 1 I i 1 L I r S ji r rt M t l lI I t r I j jt jI 4 c A t l lI 1 jt t t i f t I iii I il t ti t L i r i r 9 i t N I i L LIf II Iii If f I 1 it II 1 I Moss Hose Bose Party Pale Yellow Pekin Crepe Costume I i The rhe sight of oC the show windows window and andl andi i l counters piled plied with new laces and bro brocades broI ro rot t I I caries cades Is le cause for tears The wor worst t i 1 t colors are east together in the most 4 I I ungraceful and inappropriate designs i One gorgeous robins ro ns egg blue satin 4 bears huge bouquets of mistletoe bro brocade brocade brocade cade in gold thread while knobby look looking t lug ing little nosegay of at reddish purple I L II violets are tossed to e d here bere and there on the I 9 1 green satin spaces A pink satin is fig figured 2 1 over in a design that resembles d I an en endless cHain of mountain peaks 4 on which snowflakes as big and as asty ty Vi round as quinine pills are falling failing The prospect is no more pleasing at atthe atthe j the counter where w bere lace robes are dis displayed li played for into i to the mesh of the lace J l i large irregularly shaped pieces of 1 painted panne or silk muslin are let letI I Not satisfied with so much decoration H the manufacturers introduce i on the surface of the panne or muslin N squares ridiculous Js roses and tulips and qi lilies and clusters clust of wistaria made of I puffed putted tulle tule of a variety of contrasted tints These tulle flowers that resemble rEsemble 1 ble nothing so eo much mu h as raw colored have stalks talks and leaves of gold geld gol braid and three or four inches of i tinsel el tissue glitter gUtter at the foot of the lace robe i Really Pretty Frocks Z i It is childish and garish in appear appearance I w ance so 80 much so indeed that tha t it is a positive to turn to the conserva conservative j tire tive gowns ff of simple goods which r while showing no startling features I Ij r display both grace and nd taste Such a gown or gowns rather are the group I of two evening frocks in the double t column sketch These are especially designed for forthe the fresh freeh and youthful ele do element 4 1 ment meat in society for the buds after the If j debutante dance is over The one to tot 7 t the left is amoss moes rose pink taffeta bril brili i lIante i The be body is quaintly q shirred all J about and the threads s of the shirring are obscured by b bands of baby bab velvet I ribbon in cor C lor a green that matches very fresh string Woodland moss The InK and the th of green velvet ribbon continue down upon UDon the 4 f a i 1 T A i IA Walking Gown For Young Girl i skirt to form a Jon Ion pointed apron ef effect effect s feet The edges eases gee of this apron are aflutter t t ter chiffon Trill riUs of if opalescent hue huei i changing through j Pink Ink to white and andi i tender gre grein n A deep frill of ot the chiffon t borders tile the skirt I around 1 i Not a bit less les pleasing p is the com cm companion c m s I panion gown g n of ot pale yellow Pekin ii crepe crene decked with bands of I minks mInS fur A buckle of filigree gilt I i and pole pale blue lue sapphires holds the he points paints of the short zouave jackets to together 4 gether over oval the bust bu t and below the furred cf cl t falls a vest yest of pale blue Hbert tissue spotted yel yelloW ye el elloW loW lou A blue silk dancing petticoat is worn under the J of ot yellow crepe Smart and d Simple Si pl Street Gowns Hardly a word of pC anything but praise should accompany the two discreet walking gowns that illustrate the best type of suit now being made for adults And juveniles The Tue young oung Kids girls dress drees is Iza a tweed In Ina Ina ina a WOrm warm shade shad of ot r d and stroked ir irregularly irregularly Irregularly regularly with fine close dose set et lack I lines A band of or spUd red ladies cloth I I order the skirt foliar collar and yoke of I and forms the th belt and this is Isa a SEnsibly toned iown by applications of j narrow black binck The c forthe older woman is r 1 a blue homespun of ot delight delightfully delightfully delightfully fully soft quality the coat and skirt edged with smooth th lighter blue cloth and braided In black while the th lower half of the body dtp of ot the skirt Is arranged in blue silk that matches the cloth edges Some SOUle very interesting striped cash cashmeres cashmeres cashmeres meres have hae been brought out this sea season son sn The stripes run the length of the goods are half an inch Inoh wide and alter alternate alternate nate in black and white tabac brown and yellow red and nd black k etc They are extensively used in the makeup of smart house bouse skirts the tops of which have the lighter stripes tucked out This leaves the lower loer half of such a skirt very iery full f and the stripes con conspicuous conspicuous conspicuous A fancy shirt waist and a narrow flexible completes quite an ideal id al dress Leather Leathe and an Twilled Ribbon Belts Apropos Apropo of belts we are In danger of doing the flexible gold ribbon to death with overmuch patronage Black satin girdles braided In gold are aie also pretty but rapidly hastening to destruction through rough t too great popularity pO n A group J I of really smart belts accompanies the i and shows how leather and med ribbon are are most tastefully used I The belt of black satin sprinkled with tiny steel beads and clasped in Lu front frontI I by b a handsome strass buckle is care carefully I fully shaped sh ped to fit the waist as a col collar collar collar lar band Is cut and skillfully adjusted to the neck This is a French invention tion The leather girdle Is a straight strap of white cairs hid wit with the Hie fine bleached hair clinging to the skin This pliant hide is taken from the body of a stillborn calf and amI is the only onh sort of white belt that does not soil son since the fine hair accepts little grease or dust and that which it does take can be easily wiped off with a fl cloth cI The third strap s of white silk diagonally diagonally diagonally I striped with a black velvet line Une and clasped with a gold disk buckle on white three eaglets are outlined in brilliants Nearly all the good gowns this season seas n are finished with small crush or stitched belts that exploit buckles of Intrinsic artistic value From Paris they are sending us beautiful buckles in the form of comic c mic and tragic masques grinning ces or or shaped and arid worked in imitation of Japanese sword guards and Mandarin buttons Some Chic Novelties The most du moment Idea in collars is the high straight satin band about the base of which a soft ribbon is drawn and tied in a bow in front that shows as many as six ends of uneven lengths In front but no loops Every end is pinched together and finished with v ith an ornamental golden tag and the result of this trifling trilling device is extreme extremely ly l pretty Sometimes the tags are of true gold charmingly wrought and set with tiny jewels jew ls so that thal they bey can be transferred to every fresh necktie All shades of brown bron gloves prevail from the glace kid to heavy walking suede in deep tabac brown Some of the smart walking gloves have stripes of kid laid on the hack back and tailored on with many stitch ings and a flat heavy he brown pearl button fastened on with a brass shank Is the proper method of closing them at the wrist The black tulle to pe was epidemic last winter and it Was hs as to be hoped that the heat of summer had perma permanently permanently permanently melted molted it from the memory of toque wearing womankind No such change hange of ot heart has taken place how however however however ever and the tulle toque tolue is evidently prepared to weather the rigors of an another another other winter This season seat sean n we are to have hae black tulle toques with velvet brims braided in gold or over overlaid laid hId with gold lace Another species of ot shirred tulle will be a aA aA ac c a i r d dc c 4 r rA A Blue Homespun Street and Shop Shopping Shopping ping pin Skirt Marquise Mar ulse in shape the brim freighted 1 with willi long luscious black plumes plume drawn dr n nin in front through along a long very narrow buckle bu kle o thides maids have haye already bogun to t patronize the tulle Marquise In black because of ot Its Ineffable soft gracefulness and the charming charning contrast into which it Jt throws their delicate dell te colored gowns Brocade Waistcoats Every coat that 1 l not as long in the skirts as a tea gown is a coatee There I Is the Spanish Spa coatee e the Rom Rpm Romney Romney ney coatee co coat t e and the Dir and Louis Loul Quinz coatee cottec difference ance be between between between tween any all one of em IS that some have tails and sonje have h e not nut The and Louts Louis XV Y coats boast 1 the most magnificent antique brocade I waistcoats A story flying about I dressmakers establishments relates the th experience of a wealthy weal thy woman who wh II wanted w a true old brocade of ot a special Du DuBarry Barry pink color for her green I vet yet Louis coatee Falling Failing to find what I she wanted at any Of the dry goods 1 palaces or at the furniture dealers she made a round of the shops and discovered a chair upholstered iI in I I I II I I 1 I jUst the brocade she was searching for forShe forShe She paid 1500 for the chair ripped off the gorgeous brocade dress it wore and ordered it into the front of her herat at The mangled chair did not suit her h r empire drawing room so that It now nov remains in her garret a monument meat ment nt to fo the extravagance of the rich American then wh n the perfection of her herI Wardrobe is at stake I MARX MAR MARZEAN PEA DEAN |