Show UUI I Nowadays the woman who has only a few friends or the woman who has many receives them on a special day Then she is ready for them and it is not necessar to express to a single visitor the regret of her hostess at not being able to see her The tea gown is never worn to receive visitors In steada pretty wellfitting frock is assumed as-sumed which if necessary may be worn at a place of amusement or with a wran and bonnet added forma form-a calling costume The combination of stuffs with velvet or satin gives to the visiting toilette a rich appearance and makes possible artistic contrasts in color as well as in materials There is a decided liking for moire usually the moire is watered in the broad fashion and has large figures or designs de-signs in the same color as the background back-ground brocaded in silk not velvet upon it Brocaded moire is almost invariably in-variably combined with velvet the moire is used for the skirt and the velvet for the bodice the back the waist coat the draped corselet or perhaps per-haps only the belt and collar must be of the same material as the skirt 000 Black in velvet silk and wool is more popular than ever before and dressmakers endeavor to gain novel effects by using magpie colors of black and white A new material which bids fair to gain great popularity is called soleil cloth It is a lightweight cloth with a sheen as glossy as satin upon it Though this sounds as if this new material must be costly it is not really so owing to its being of double wIdth Lace passementerie of jet steel gold pearl and that rich kind formed of imitation precious stones are used largely and artistically upon gowns for the street and the house < S > < S > < i > Tiny fancy watches fastened to the corsage form the principal feature of the novelties displayed by the jewelers jewel-ers It is remembered that this fashion fash-ion of wearing a watch went out of favor some four years ago but it has been revived during the last few months These watches displayed as holiday novelties are veritable works of art and include the most beautiful specimens speci-mens 6f the goldsmiths handiwork combined with every possible precious stone They are generally with open face the ornamentation being on the back 1 although the face is often inlaid with stones encircled by a tiny gold t t frame fashioned in irregular design I A beautiful one seen recently had a I j crystal back covered by gold filigree i another had a painting done on enamel I while a third was fashioned from a I beautifully cut cameo 31 < cameoS > It is necessary for everyfvomah who wishes to be considered at all fashionably fashion-ably gowned this winter to have a velvet vel-vet gown or if that cannot be compassed com-passed a velvet jacket Superb is the only adjective to apply to some of the velvet costumes which are as regal as the robes worn by the queens in fairytales fairy-tales Made of material costing 5 a yard this is bv no means the most expensive lined with rich satin and trimmed with the richest of furs and laces it is small wonder that the heart j of woman longeth for such attire Eminence purple deeD red dark emerald green a shade of heavenly blue bright brown and above all black are equal in favor and when becomingly made and with a hat or bonnet to match i would be difficult to devise a more becoming and satisfactory satis-factory costume The newest imported dinner gowns are of velvet Black velvet vel-vet almost without exceotion and while supposedly only suitable for older women is worn by young girls also However velvet is not a suitable fabric for evening gowns for young girls and they make a mistake when they try and take it for themselves Theycan have velvet jackets and outdoorgowns If they will but even then are stupid in so doing for snuff cloth or rough effects ef-fects in better taste < > 0 < S > Point lace and diamonds velvet and ermine are terms connected in our minds with all that is magnificent and in this age of luxury it is possible to combine them all in one wearing A bertha of point lace fastened with dia mond ornaments is a satisfactory trimming for the waist of a lowcut velvet gown while a band of ermine aropnd the skirt adds greatly to the beauty and elegance The fashion of lining skirts with contrasting con-trasting colors shows to great advantage advant-age in the velvet costumes and lack velvet lined throughout with rose pink silk and a full balayeuse of pink ruffles which show occasionally as the skirt moves is effective Dark brown lined with reseda green eminence purole with yellow are a few of the combinations combina-tions that mark this years fashions In color Short jaunt jackets of velvet are worn with skirts of poplin moire brocade bro-cade moire velvet or of loth They are never severe or plain in outline but elaborate A costume of purple has the gored skirt trimmed with bands of chinchilla fur put on in two zigzag bands around the bottom The jacket which extends a few inches below the waist line in the back ha a full waistcoat of orange satin covered palots of white lace and chiffon plisse Wide graduated revers turn back far over the sleeves and are trimmed with bands of chinchilla the medicis collar is slashed in points and bound with chinchilla and just at the back of the neck Is a double bow of broad black satin ribbon Inside the collar is a ruffle of white lace and a plisse of the chiffon An odd feature I of this jacket is the straps of velvet I which are turned back from the side seams and fastened down in the center seam with two exquisite miniature buttons but-tons on the fronts under the revers are more of the same buttons which in themselves are works of artS < art-S > < S > < > Beautifully oainted miniatures are quite as fashionable in jewelry as precious pre-cious stones being used for brooches watches in bracelets and for the tops of scentbottles and bonbon cases Some very elaborate toilet sets have crystal bottles and boxes with miniatures minia-tures set in the gold tops and mirrors with Louis XVI frames ornamented with miniatures The artist is being considerably called on now by the jewelers not only for these dainty replicas of an old form of portraiture but for designs In bass relief that may be copied in unalloyed gold These dainty bassreliefs make fancy pins goodluck bangles or when the subject is a religious one medals suitablecfor a first cbmmunion present or again a beautiful design c of Holy Mother and Child is copied in gold for the cover of a prayerbook 000 In necklaces the novelty is strings of stones cut perfectly round like large beads These come in turquoises and opals Jeweled aigrettes with the diamonds dia-monds falling from them like heavy i drops of dew are artistic and graceful and strings of pearls fully two inches across with diamond slides and clasps are approved of by the best jewelers These are to be worn tight about the throat and the broad ones certainly require a long neck and gracefully poised head There are also among these Christmas Christ-mas gifts heavy jeweled snakes wInding wind-ing twice and a half about either throat or arm with emerald or ruby eyes and length encrusted with stones that reach in price into the four figures < 00 There is little to be said of fans that was not hinted at 3 year ago The up todate fan is small and the extreme fan is tiny Watteau designs are in favor as are also fans painted in rose and bowknot pompadour patterns The black motherofpearl is much used for sticks even more than is tortoiseshell or ivory Some fans are entirely of ivory often richly enameled or jeweled Cimbinations of lace figures and silk gauze on which flower designs by well known artists are painted make charming charm-ing fans Feather fans are of stiff wings rather than of ostrich plumes I to be strictly a la mode Some fans are covered by a soft down of grayish feathers and have pearl sticks ornamented orna-mented by gold and jeweled snakes Fan cases are sometimes of tortoiseshell tortoise-shell or pearl with gold ornaments or monograms to match the sticks but oftener of rich silks with monogram and corners of gold s c In gowns we are hardly getting away from the high belt and short jacket as the Paris models show The skirt of one dress is of tan cloth opening on the sides over a straight line of the same stuff closed by black velvet buttons but-tons and silk cords The crushed belt is of black velvet and the velvet buttons but-tons ornament the sleeves The jacket and epaulette pieces over the sleeves are of green cloth unlined and trimmed by black passementerie and buttons A mull skirt with starched turnover collar col-lar and pleat in front closed with studs forms the underblouse although a silk or velvet blouse may take Its place Another frock Is a rather more dressy afternoon costume of a fancy silk with small pink figures on a tobaccobrown ground The skirt is novel inasmuch as it suggests a apron drapery but the effect is due to an apron trimming of pink silk covered by a second ruffle rufe of heavy yellow lace The blouse is of the figured silk laid in tucks over the figure and in ruffles over the top of the sleeves The yoke and high belt are of pink silk covered by incrustations of mellow lace In both these gowns size and style of sleeve and skirt represent rep-resent the average not the extreme house gown made now by Paris couturiers coutu-riers < t > < < S > Women who are uncomfortable because be-cause they fear that their complexion is becoming florid should be careful of their diet One of the worst things a woman can take for her complexion is alcoholic beverages By this It is not meant that onlv excesses lead to red rough faeces and illuminated noses The women who take a glass of wine with their dinner and a glass of whisky and water at night occasionallywhen they feel cold or out of sorts soon find that their noses are becoming red at the end and that their cheek bones have an unpleasant un-pleasant floridity which may be traced entirely to the small quantities of liquor thev consume All alcoholic drinks are death to the complexion Other things that are bad for the complexion are opiates narcotics sleeping draughts other than ordinary alcoholic beverages strong tea and coffee and anything that tends to heat the blood Hot blood means an inflamed in-flamed countenance and this many times repeated may make the inflammation inflam-mation permanent I the sensible woman will use a little selfdenial and substitute olaan hot water for the i other stronger drinks she will soon wil I become used to it and her complexion 1 I r will the mirror praise her every time she looks in |