Show SPRING GOAT STYlE Beetle Wrap Proper ThIng For the Stout 4 JACKETS FOR SLENDER + THESE ABE GUSSETED AND BOBTAILED I + Spring Garment Approved of For I Older Women Beetle Backs Sure to Have Great Popularity Coats j I of Poplin For Summer and Wool Grenadines New Overskirts + Special Correspondence New York Feb 1The tailors have their needles threaded and their sbears sharpened for the cutting and basting Ing season by the aid of this coat device de-vice TUNIC DRAPERIES SUPREME The one m sage warning or advice on the tongue of every dressmaker is the overskirt Not to wear an overskirt over-skirt Is to argue yourself a hopeless Philistine of fashion The light weight light toned Henriettas Amazon cloths wool armures the lovely white drap du Sudan and the countless cotton weave are being rapidly converted into costumes cos-tumes with Greek peplums round ap Iron I-ron effects or tunic draperies We may disapprove on the score of comfort but I we cant help relishing the novelty that has been so sorely needed for sometime some-time in the lower half of the modish toilet I After all so excessively airy are the spring goods without exception and so skilfully has all superfluous width been eliminated from our draperies that we I wIll not carry in the overskirts an inch of actual extra material The placket holeis skill a mystery and only the maker of a skirt and its wearer know how it is gpt into No riding habits were ever made to fit with more of a wellputonwallpaper effect than the skirt of the moment and it is neither untruthful nor ilina ured to say that women who are broad in the beam heavy In hip and show great abdominal fullness commit hari karlso far as their own grace and good i I H f I Jo + Ie v A I I 1 j A a iT I THREE NEW OvERSKIRTS of spring coats The women whose clothes are guides and beacon lights to their sisters are setting out for the south just now and the light coats they take with them serve as perfect models for the stayathomes All the youthful and slender women suth as Mrs Clarence Mackey Mrs John R Livermore aud Mrs Almerie Paget will wear in North Carolina Florida and Bermuda either very short or wonderfully long jackets over ther flannel or silk shirt waists The short L jats are quite bewitching for they are they hang out rather freely and are slope open and gusseted in three places on the bottom In front they cit se up with a liy finish so high that a necktie just peeps out at the top the Eeeves lie severe and a narrow n Uhed collar faced with corded silk fold away about the neck With a soft slozy silk in dull pink blue green or red these coats are lined and the one pocket in such garments is Slt n tIll outside and rather high on the left breast Nov no woman with fall hips and bust should presume to asrume one of these littl garments for manifestly the jaunty rut of it will only dist las her rotund proportions to the irost ludicrous disadvantage The plump short person can In alls all-s though claim as her own the coat with the beetle tails the coat that is a swift cutaway over the hips and drops its rear skirts to the wearers wear-ers knee or even to her heels There is only one great drawback to this wrap it does not lend itself to successful suc-cessful make in the hands of any but an expert tailor Still the beetle backs are bound to have a season of great pnpuiar exaltation though it requires n > great acumen to decide that one seasun will round out their existence i The style of the garment like the pre i riling iut ofskirts is too exaggerated to hold feminine favor over long I CHEAP AND EFFECTIVE WRAPS Dandyish short wraps are piped I with silk instead of strapped in theirs I their-s ams The silk matches the color of the coats cloth and the select coatings for this year arc gray rovering instead I of bro > n ink blue and iron rust brown military melton and later we are going to have silk and poplin and wool grena dne coats made over colored silk 1m Ings wcmen who know how to buy at the I pI iiI1 I I q 21 ° k ciA ci-A SPUING SUIT remnant counters have excelled their shrewd genius by purchasing reduced lengths of crushed velvet velours antique an-tique embossed satin etc and making them up into coats bodies with cutaway cuta-way tails hung with huge lace jabots In front A gorgeous looking body is Inexpensively compiled by the sewing woman who comes to the house and all sorts of old skirts silk satin or ncol are worn out in the now wan cut off exactly at the waist line but do not close in for a tight fit Instead I j looks go by adopting this excessively Parisian fashion I The latest extremity to which this t fashion has gone is that of lacing the I I skirt up in front The skirt is slit open about ten or twelve inches down from I the waist line and this opening when the garment is in place is closed by t silk lacing that run up to the waist il i I and there form a bowknot with gilt tipped ends j Taking the signals of spring as they i appear day by day one finds the foulards foul-ards in evidenqe with very few changes their spots and dots and 1 fn gil lf i stripings over last summer Silkalisse i is a charming novelty goods half cotton cot-ton half silk very soft washable and in changeable blues cerise yellows and I I I I I 1 Tim BEETLETAILED COAT star greens Dont be in the least afraid of Bayadere strips They are a fashionable force to reckon with still in grenadines wool goods etamlnes and gingham WHITE COTTON DRESSES If elaborate preparations for heavy I sales are significant then white cotton gowns especially embroidered ones are sure to be a dominant feature next I summer Few of such toilets bear It in mind will be made of plain white I nainsook muslin or pique more or less conservatively trimmed The truly pretty and admirable white dress will instead be a maze of embroidery and I tucks Some years ago a costume of that type represented enormous hand labor and a huge dressmakers bill This spring bolts of white stuff manufactured in alternate strIplngs of embroidery insertion fittings of lace and clusters of the delicatest little tucks will lie on counters at a price any purse will be able to compass and It will require no great amount of skill to put such a gown in wearing shape since tucked and lace edged and gathered gath-ered fills are also sold ready for application ap-plication In the shops SPRING HATS The first fashion swallow so to speak always appears as a harbinger of spring in womens hats in the attractive attrac-tive form of flowers Feathers at this moment are decidedly twisted by long battle with midwinter dust and gales and women are glad enough to prolong the useful beauty of a felt or velvet toque by replacing bedraggled plumes with knots of fresh posies A stalk or flowers is the momentary preference It stands up as high as six inches where the plumes lately waved and its body is wire wrapped with ribbon and onto this small roses violets primroses pansies etc climb in close set company quite like holy hocks round their garden stakes The wire frame work is then sc fastened to the hat that at every nod of the wearers head and every passing breeze I the stalk sways this way and that Another springish idea In millinery is that of ft having ornamental hat pinheads pin-heads united by pretty chain punctuated punctu-ated with small jewels or tiny enameled flower faces MARY DEAN I IS |