Show IN F ASHION s REALM Novelties that Some People Cannot Can-not Do Without SOMETHING KEW IN HOSIERY Shoes of Fabrics With Large Antique Buckles Chic Hat and Furs that Hake Pretty Women Prettier NEW YORK Nov 291890 Special correspondence espondence of THE HERALDJIf it had only pleased nature to give the human lam lyfeet to accord with their ideas of beauty why the shoe pinches would never have caused a thought but as it is every age has had its standard of symetry and the twisted toes of Rufus day and the ducks bills of Henry VIL were probably as much deprecated as our own high heels narrow soles and pointed tips which suggest the amputation of one or two toes to make room for the rest The best compromise made between a too sturdylooking English boot and one of French origin is a walking shoe of soft Dongola with foxings of patent leather and what is called the French half heel Ladies are now having their carriage carri-age shoes made of rich fabrics and decorated deco-rated with large antique silver and jeweled buckles f > f b l J i ft fir P < I fllifI tb I gr y r i Iv r w v t ir = c GREEK SAXDAli AXD EVENING SLIPPERS House shoes have never been more elegant ele-gant than at present and the true Lacede monian might revel among the attractive red slippers shoes and sandals which distinguish dis-tinguish every collection These are exclusively ex-clusively for the house and for morning toilette for which they are popular with every kind of stocking and though the latter lat-ter in all its intricacies of coloring and do sign and delicate and seductive ornament tation is most likely to hopelessly lure 1 womauKmo irom a consiueration or tne practical in shoes during a shopping expedition expe-dition it is the writers intention to herein postpone their admiration of dainty hosiery until they are told of the swell street boot which is so English you know Except that it represents a goodly proportion propor-tion of sturdy common sense it is not so very English after all for though made of line calfskin and Dongola Kid neatly attached at-tached to heavy soles it is really a graceful grace-ful and natty boot easy to wear and almost as potent a prevention of pulmonary affections affec-tions as the celebrated Koch discovery This particular swell boot shown with justifiable pride by the maker is shaped upon a last arched over the instep and hol owed under it in such a manner that the foot fills the shoe its full length something some-thing which cannot be said of the usually flat walking boot The toe is pointed and ornamented at the tip and for a short distance dis-tance along tho sides with a fancy cap of tho calfskin the uppers are laced and thus the shoe can be adjusted and will more firmly hold the foot just where it needs to be gripped by a shoe than when buttoned and best of all in the eyes of a woman the heel though low as it should be is of the Cuban shape ana this latter feature with the arching instep gives an earthly comfort com-fort and support to a womans solo which is denied by many of the aristocratic kin of the calfskin shoe tho now fashionable foot gear for shopping and rainyday wear And now glance at hosiery If you de sire quite the newest thing something very chic you will be shown a rich silk stocking black at the top for a few inches and also along the sole of the foot and the tip of the toe The intermediate space is handsomely plaided in Scottish colors blue and green with an intermingling of black and the plaids are here and there defined de-fined by narrow lines of brilliant red or yellow The top of the plaid portion reaches just above the swell of the calf and results in a suggestion of the costume ot the Highlanders For ultimate association with fancy house and carriage shoes and also for full dress wear there are black stockings whose insteps in-steps and ankles are illumined with dainty handembroideries of brilliant silk and metallic beads In gold steel copper jot and the serpent tints and silken hose of delicate deli-cate blue pink pale yellow pearl mauve and Nile green decorated with dainty traceries tra-ceries in contrasting colors and gold thread and also in gold silver jet and steel beads Ribbed stockings prevail for street wear in black dahlia shades tans browns and slate tints and where two colors are united as black and pink the latter color extends in ribs the full length of the stocking at the front only the back being black and plainly woven Shrimp pink heliotrope yellow turquoise blue and aople green are all combined com-bined with black either as above described or with the upper or lower half black and the remaining half of the tint I NEW ENGAGEMENT KINGS Apropos of the fact that blue in all its shades has returned to favor a glance at feminine heads in fashiouable evening audiences au-diences shows a general uprising of turquoise tur-quoise blueostrich tips and soft masses of I velvet of the same tint each with a background I back-ground or setting of black velvet or jet These bits of greenish blue shine out like flashes of light in a painters landscane and the ultrafashionable woman who can success suc-cess fully wear turquoise blue is sure to he seen in a fetching millinery creation in which this color is given due prominence Handsome turquoise blue gowns are decorated deco-rated with tdbllcrca of black passementerie with serrated edges whose points reach to the inch wide band of Persian lamb fur or Astrakhan at tho foot of the skirt Larger points outline a corselet upon the waist while much smaller points fall far over the hands from the wrists of the long sleeves An edge of tho fur at the neck provides 0 soft finish and with the blue of the gown brings out all the fairness or clearness of the judicious wearers complexion and makes a picture entitled to genuine admiration admir-ation But the woman with a sallow or muddy complexion should bewaro of the wiles of this color in planning her own gowns and hats Tho allcentering aim of the belle of the day is to acquire by her toilette a slender appearance in which though she fancies she is following the lal dst whim she Is but emulating the example set by her Babylonian sisters of nearly four thousand years ago They too wore plain tight waists and pleated or flounced clinging skirts Perhaps they also had J I skirts which correspond to the plain but flaring tallormado sldr of the present day which is properly constructed less than three yards around with all of the fullness ken away from the front and hips by a bias seam directly up the centre and by short darts at the sides These flaring skirts sometimes have a bias seam at the centre of the back where any fullness that is left is drawn into the fashionable space of three inches r 9 t I t1 uiit s s TEA bOWS Another reminiscence antiquity appears in the latest caprice in coiffures which is a notification of the styles in vogue at the beginning of this century and which were at that time adaptations of tho Grecian fashion of hair dressing At tho present time tho nail is wound in a compact knot at tho back of tho head so that tho crown and tho top of the knot are in a line The ends of the hair are curled in short ring lets which escape from the base of the knot or tiny false curled pieces are pinned herein here-in place of the natural curls and some times the curls are omitted altogether particularly icularly if one has a nicely shaped head since it is one of the fads of the moment o preserve the outline of the head by a smooth and compact arrangement of the hair If the hair is dressed high and fluf fly a Castilian shell pin thrust through its coils and waves lends a very piquant effect These pins are about six inches long and nearly an inch wide at the top tapering down to the regulation point They have the outline of a daeger blade and some of them are simply plain tortoiseshell tortoise-shell while others are carved at the top or wide end There is of course a slight incongruity in-congruity in adding to a Grecian coiffure a Castilian ornament which is productive of a Japanese effect tuat is likewise very chic But fashion sways tastes and reconciles L me most Incompa lOU oetaiis 01 moqern toilettes and really when my lady arrives at the opera or theatre in evening dress over which a fashionable threequarter length mantle of crimson or olivo or sapphire sap-phire or golden brown plush lined with shrimppink satin and finished with a hign flaring color of fur and flutters her but terflytrimmed fan with daintily shaped hands encased in beaded gloves of pearl mauve heliotrope or pale tan undressed rid she is fair indeed tchsoe and the dress critic cannot find it in his or her heart to question the harmony of the details so long as that of the colors is beyond censure cen-sure rAnd r-And speaking of beaded gloves it may not be amiss to sayto those who are obliged to consider the possibilities of the cleaning qualities of such articles of wear that they come forth from tho renovating process with no tarnish upon their glittering decorations deco-rations and no loss of the latter Gloves with large buttons whose conspicuous qual ities are subdued by having the same color as the glove arevery fashionable and another an-other style as yet a project unsubjeoted to the McKinley regime since it has not been Drought to our market but shortly will be is a glove with a long wrist coming well up over the sleeve and naving In addition a gauntlet attached to its top That it is stylish cannot be gainsaid that it will be popular is a foregone conclusion LETOILE |