Show s I A Fisherman Fisherman's c cf L f Coat oat Is thc the s Inspiration of This Smock of Blue Serge I J Bound 4 in y I and Yellow Eleven EI I Inc Indies h f from the h FI Floor I Is Worn horn Over era a even nc es rOIn t e a s Pleated Skirt o r of the Blue th e N New ems evv St Standard an d ar d f for o or r Sk Skirts lr t s an and d Dark a r Blues ue sa sar and n Grays ra s Are the e ft r 1 F Favorite Colors Colors t t Y r r for J Spring S or i I Y I 4 r 1 0 t i iI L L. L i r r 7 3 L' L I 4 l ti r Hf I 11 1 I I 1 l' l i iW W x iM Y Ir fr L y r y 39 y Y y i F I 1 t 1 N 1 i t S Nt Nc t f I A I. I I 1 0 r R c i v f f d t r r i l rr f I r r h M 4 J. J 1 71 j Y r f n c 1 f 1 I 0 k 1 A r x r V 1 v I r 1 1 r i i. i y w ll r q j 1 r i s r rA il If q f YO I 4 9 11 1 7 O K I I r A 1 V w r r e f Li vy rc y kW T Z x x f. f 0 i ti rr r 5 1 3 Q f 1 d Y i f S SG G J ir m i d a 4 r v s J 6 1 jr r. r 1 y I. I 1 y l t r 1 Y y JIl f Gy y r fp rAG y r v t t ti I I Q fY y A l J Js r V s t S I A V Vi j i. i ar y i f fI r. r J iJ I Ij r c Y j ji wr vr I n a i t R ti lt 0 SY a I 1 d r. r a. a s 0 n fL r t 1 Jil f e G i r S 1 r rr 4 ri r rl r rr v l v s r i n k ri 1 rusk Ji f t J. J a 1 a YS y P S 'S ks I 4 o. o sr q 1 v I r s xi s r t y 1 14 I of g j v vj By Mme Mine Fr Frances I The Famous Creator of Fashions 0 S it youthful That Tha is the acid test test IS I I which must be applied to your spring frock The simplicity of childhood is found in the straight line model with with narrow narrow nar nar- row V belts remindful of pinafore days These ese belts loosely hold the around the waist and small as s they may seem control in a large measure the becomingness becoming- becoming ness tress of the goWn gown because the line around the waist is a salient of pf every costume These belts are are re sometimes run through buttonholes frequently bound in a contrasting contrasting con con- 4 color to accent their presence They may be of braid or of the dress material material material ma ma- or of satin or duvet when these fabrics ar are used sed as trimming Whatever their material rest assured the belts manage manage manage man man- age to assert themselves in a very attractive attractive tive way Leather is still good style for belts on suits coats and piece one-piece dresses though leather is is being rapidly supplanted by fabric belts Dark blue leads the field in in choice of color for the spring dress One never has to ask why after looking at almost any woman in blue It is the universal color When the last woman takes her last look at earth she is going t to cast a longing glance on her blue e frock flock and wonder if angel wings will b be e as becoming The Flare FIare Is the Thing b m Gray is is also found in many of the spring street dresses and fawn is is also a popular color This soft shade of tan is as much uch a shade of spring as the jonquils and hyacinths that gladden our he hearts each year year Fawn is exceedingly becoming and its neutral tint makes i it t effective in contrast cono contrast con- con o st with dark ark blue black French blue bluer i io V r i a f r tit j f i J 4 V yi i t tS S j N arm are bound with char char- it J J s t All AlI of Gray Grav meuse satin of the same h Jf I c Gabardine r f r shade of fa fawn fa n as the thet l gabardine The narrow t Are ire re the k cuffs and th the belt ending I. I l Panels in a perky y bow bow are also alsa al so soo o Pockets ets' ets satin An interesting vana van vari variation varland a x and Belt of line is supplied in in inthe t 7 1 t the rectangular piece off of f an and d t the h e gabardine set in the front Frock Itself and flatly stitched in two rows o of or tailored stitching n T P nm t e lane Her Tailored Frock Is Quite Apt to Be BeNarr Narrowly Belted with Toned Self-Toned Satin This One of Fawn Gabardine Is Also Bound on Every Edge with the Satin American Americ n beauty or brown Emerald green is also very striking in contrast with fawn The materials' materials most favored for this type of frock are gabardine and serge The long blouse falling over a pleated 1 skirt is the germ of the idea of all of the str street et dresses illustrated although the models are developed with various original characteristics There The e is a swing given to the blouses billow SIow b. b low the waistline The flare is the thing things you know and in blouses of the type illustrated the peplum or part tart below the waistline is cut circular or of the side seams are gored in a bias line to give the necessary necessary necessary sary for the blouse to swing into a flare The blouse and peplum may sometimes be cut in one or the peplum may be invisibly invisibly invisibly in- in visibly attached to the blouse beneath the belt There now you have the secret of the line of these costumes and since I have let you into the intricacies of their cut Ill I'll describe them in detail A charmingly youthful blouse of blue serge is made like a. a fishermans fisherman's coat Yellow Yellow Yel Yel- low v contributes a a. a perfect color 0 contrast to navy blue and this fabric binds the short sleeves the edge of the coat the slashed d buttonholes and the belt of serge th that t runs through the buttonholes buttonholes buttonholes button button- holes and charmingly b ac accents cents the waistline in front The belt emerges through two vo similar buttonholes in in the back and ties jn n sash ends The pockets s which are also bound with yellow contribute an interesting line to the simplicity of this model They extend beyond the underarm seams and andreach andreach andreach reach around to the back The youthfully a be becoming oming collar is white linen completed with a black satin tie The hat worn with this costume is yellow yellow yellow yel yel- low straw v pierced with two bright 4 green green pins pills The skirt is pleated this time in deep knife pleats Box pleats are also smart and a bit V ne newer r than accordion pleats although the accordion pleats are holding to favor with remarkable tenacity Their becomingness accounts for that Chinese Inspiration in Clothes The Chinese influence is is strong in spring fashions The frock of fa fawn wn gabardine presents an interesting adaptation adaptation adaptation tion of the Chinese inspiration in the neckline neckline neckline neck neck- line and side closing The blouse is cut circular at the sides to give the flare The neck and the bias line running from shoulder point to under Feature Service 1920 Jr y s 1 1 1 J. J YU YV pod v p U 60 gr from this rectangle and complete the ensemble of the blouse which is held by satin covered loops and buttons The rhe skirt is slightly full and falls beneath the blouse without trimming or or pleats of any kind A brown bro straw sailor completes this interesting co costume tume There is something invariably becoming becoming becom becom- ing inO in the apron lines lines' of the gray gabardi gabardine gabardine gabar gabar- di dine e dress Over the kimono sleeves and underarm sections are laid two flat panels of gray gabardine The back panel is shorter than the front by some four inches This shorter line and the slash on the sides caused by the slight flare of the two panels panels panels pan pan- els contribute an effective break in the lines of the dress The round neck nek is devoid devoid devoid de de- de- de void of collar though one of the s sheerest erest lingerie hand embroidered and tri trimmed mined ned with ith Val or Baby Irish troche croche ight be worn Gabardine cuffs are turn back on the elbow sleeves The centre front is slashed with bound buttonholes through which runs a sash of ot gray gabardine that drops a bit as it continues continues continues con con- around to the centre b back ck where it ties 1 in n sash ends The pockets are piped with gabardine The becoming Napoleon hat that accompanies this costume is black Youth is also found in the smart blue gabardine frock trimmed with black silk braid Raglan sleeves give a becoming shoulder line to the blouse Black silk braid binds the round neck whose white linen tabs are essentially ecclesiastical in their suggestion of an Episcopal bishops bishop's c collar The underarm seams of this blouse 4 1 r r s. s 11 J Bla Black l Silk Braid and Ecclesiastical Bands I Give a Very Tery 7 ery Demure Look to This Frock of Blue Gabardine Gabardine- i j jare are also cut to give the circular flare to th the peplum The at the waist i is shirred and held in to place by hand sewing sewing vinK 1 The panel that gives distinction to th V. V dress is is' cut in one piece that reaches fro the hem to a point four or five the waistline This panel is bound wi i black silk braid and it is fastened to u peplum eplum p and the blouse with bound butt holes and black bone buttons The plea skirt falls in straight lines V T Worn with this dress is a hat of J emerald green sh straw v. a Hats of Amer Ameri 4 beauty cerise burnt orange or canary low v developed in simple lines will al I effective with this frock I am making the skirts of my s models 11 inches from the floor T the standard although I modify it f fi woman who is s overweight and po the unfortunate attribute of ankles Shoes are an important j the spring cost cosi ime because of th ness of the skirts Dresses of illustrated may be beorn worn orn with p with the popular English last oThe o 0 o. o E Er The Fashion F For ForLong or r Long waists are character t. t the new silhouette The len leni t bodice is expressed in snug snugly basques and in blouses that r low the natural curve of the 4 r 4 Ten t West Sixth Fifty New York 1 r j 0 0 1 i E |