Show t. t r 1 r. r r iw I I J I i i a Astonishing I American ReI Revival Revival Re Re- z S vival a o of the I 1 Gorgeous Liveries Liveries Liver Liver- iv 1 ies es of 0 Past i s- s tae Y Generations ri for the Adornment N r of ManI Man Man- lite SD Drama Has Has' Hasa a Tendency to Sprinkle I Flunkies Very Freely Servants Frederick Arnold Collins By n Hall Po rt er s sJ t IN fN Am America Amri until very ry n recently the liveried J was the the exception rather than th the ther ij lm servant can ervant was and Even r milt rale Consequently he was looked upon as an e ported a curiosity a surn survival at o of f that ancient pesa custom of putting ones one's hired retainers retainer Movie M OVle e r li f ia uniform for tor the purpose of identification Toia Tote To- To You will find him by the theIn thela 11 t jq ia is everywhere te f I kern la In every large city in the United States Ushers J S Si ji service and h highly i presentable appearance V k k ire i e to every home of fashion And it to look Jook as though he be ha has come to stay i w in which the thc it that sphere liveried i a circulates is demanding today fash fash- h i tr I 1 v f f W t. t t I Io f t d- d Z A Yi rl J v J f Jo 4 t. t m x v- v y c a b rr I R P t r a q i A y hy h I N d S Of or P Cup Course tse he the I Movies Have to Recognize the Trend of Fashion and Their Costuming i r I Reflects Some Sonic Interesting Studies in in Gorgeousness It the fens acre Clot CJ Cloth fn th Worl Working of Gold ing clothes worthy of the field of They ey are arc m more rc gorgeous than g 1 re e bod the i of Eur European ean Y dom The They Y e last word ord in in liveries most k It nc uld be g feature Mature of all this is that tt Is s not so genera generl throughout the countr country j or limited a as s might be e supposed suppose to N New Newt 1 V e t t it Newport is With the thc immense growth th ol or not 4 cf Ce oly strange that man y families sud- sud acquiring riches riche s Should h UltI raMs in affect liveried serin ser- ser b brills oat H order to display it The demand f for or l es is t wi widespread and i is d by an sat at le least millions hates hate S Whose ancestors rs would scorned corned the u b h lives y as undemocratic an and r. r h ble stores i in M n the great reat cities r loo footmen g gM dress in liveri liveries yep mIght Est es which European nobler noble- noble 1 r to have ha hesitate her to adopt The shopper P pre pre- honed by bv a carriage or automobile door u t flunkey who th tha would Z of pass muster at a Euro European an palace to be e Nor a are these found p lI lIve r aboN Some be before ore small o or me or of a found and at th the the most form omal a 1 liveries will a entrances Mores to large department I t l I t most 1 designs ore ora and scar brilliant attract a attention i No hotels in the world dress their servants in such liveries as in democratic America The most formal homes in Europe even on state occasions occa lions scarcely equal the display to be found in any my one of scores of American hotels scattered from coast const to coast const The Thc footman in full livery once was a curious sight to the mixed crow crowds s which throng our hotel botel lobbies What then must we think of the lackey in knee breeches and md powdered wig 1 The powdered po wig disappeared from London houses a generation ago to reappear in democratic America But the final proof of the transformation in Americas America's attitude e toward the liveried flunkey is isto isto isto to be found at the thc theatre It is perhaps to b be expected that the footmen before fashionable theatres should appear in more or less formal liver livery The patrons to be sure are arc in full uIl evenIng evening evening even even- ing dress and the occasion may seem to justify some iome form of li er livery The Movies Movie's Resplendent Flunkey The most elaborate even cven fanciful liveries however anywhere in America are not those of fashionable New York or Newport or the theatres theatres theatres thea thea- tres but arc are to be seen at the thc doors of the thc movies Since the thc movies arc are the most economical economical economical econom econom- ical and most largely attended of all nil forms of ot entertainment we can only conclude o that tho the t 1 1 J t 0 i J. if Sr J. J I r V r 1 I 1 r wr I 1 i a r 0 J k yav I y v vv 1 I r N 1 1 r 1 r 1 v. v YI At m x xi xi I i I t tI i r. r S hr J Jt t r rI ra I a 4 1 I Ir r k i 1 1 r m I k iIII i A ib g-ib n io a s r 1 1 h rl 1 r r r u t popular taste condones condones' an and even approves the tho appearance of or the most conspicuous flunkies the tailor can can- design d sign If more evidence were nee needed ed of the amazing growth of in the United States it willbe will willbe willbe be found in the moving pictures s 's themselves The liveried servant is a n very familiar figure in many films in fact he is introduced introduce in all his splendor on the slightest slig pretext From lon long familiarity movie audiences have become expert in judging the correct livery for all occasions The Tho movie hero or heroine must be bo surrounded with retinues of servants correctly garbed which would mortify the household of ro royalty A foreigner who judged American life merely from its ih moving pictures would naturally decide that in no country in the world arc are liveried servants so common as ns in the thu United States Stales The use of liveries for servants ants is ancient and anda a n very rigid etiquette has grown up about them In adopting them to such sUCil general use in America their significance has been lost last and many absurd selection The full mistakes are arc made in ra their dress once worn by butlers for instance included include a chain of very very large links worn about the neck from which was suspended nde a huge hUgQ key For centuries cen tunes this k key y was thus worn to signi signify y th l the butler c carried the thel l k koy y to the wine s. s In some o of our hotels servants will be fo id fo thus decorated whoso business it is to run the th paper ler Sorrier 1050 T 1 J. J r Lb Yr h Jf 0 a House Footman's or Second Second Sec See ond and Mans Man's Court Livery with Braid and Buttons Button and Usually Worn Vorn with Satin or Plush Breeches and Silk Stockings The full dress livery o of footmen again includes t several gold cords draped h 7 about the right shoulder The significance of the cords has long since been f forgotten In early days when travel was by coach it was the custom for th the f footman to carry cam a coil of rope over his right shoulder shoulder I der to be used t to pull pun his 11 master or his coach out of 4 the mud in case of acci- acci acci acci- f 6 i r dent The footman who ho I e stands so rigidly at the thel l doorways of or formal homes b f l 1 f 1 today till still wears vIcars the cord a golden one as lS a result iF t of this custom The ushers of I many of our moving picture theatres theatres the the- atres wear the same golden cords cord and md tassels tar although their significance significance significance cance is not clear The livery worn by servants servant was not always a ba badge ge of servi tude It is believed to have ha originated in Franco Q or Gaul at the close of oJ the Roman period When the retainers of an e early ruler swore allegiance they received a n gown and a hood which they wore to establish their social position As Ase feudalism e developed in Europe the clothes worn by the retainers of the feu feudal al lord were made to identify them The color was often chosen from the family coat of arms and this custom still prevails pre pre- vails ails some fifteen centuries later Requirements of Good Taste A rigid rigi etiquette has been i in Europe Europ for centuries governing every detail of liveries A cockade should be worn only on the hats of servants of the crown The American department department department depart depart- ment stores and moving picture theatres have made short work of this rule The buttons worn orn wornon wornon on liveries again should only be of gol gold or silver and the only decoration the thc family crest or in in- in In Europe again many of the ancient forms have e long sinco since disappeared The servants servants ser ser- ants no longer wear gay colors The ancient sword flap has gone as has the rapier In America America America Amer Amer- ica we have already restored bright colors to the servants servants' liveries and even the rapier may again appear however incongruously I It t is considered a serious breach of or good taste ste abroad for a n servants servant's livery to be decorated with any but three kinds of laces gold gol silver and worsted In the United States the full dress of the footman even includes work open-work lace borrowed bor bor- rowed from the st styles of several centuries past There Thero was once a rigid rule that the stripes on a footman's vest ve t should invariably run across across while on a n coachmans coachman's they should run up and down This rule is not observed in America today The edging or piping on liveries should only be carried carrie around the culls cuffs and collars and down the sides of the of-the the trousers according to the European Euro Euro- fashion edicts but the American practice is much more elaborate There is a surprising quantity of literature on of liveries and the details of dress ress are subject the which is often discussed with a seriousness com com- comical comical ical Most host writers miters agree t that t the e livery of the footman an of a state coach conch is IS a costume of the highest dignity r. r A rigid etiquette also 3 governs worn by footmen and The me liveries th the most e important development in in any form of liv in tho the past century abroad has been in in that cry erv worn by the hall porter It still retains a l semi semi- military character It is not generally known that the full dress c j L t f. f r iv n a aa a t 0 v. v tr 4 t Yi f 1 JC Lr i. i h i f f. f Dress Li ery Worn orn by House Footman Note Not Waistcoat Ed Edging ing of Striped Valencia i 1 r sr n I Si t The Wine Stewards Steward's Chain His Buckled Pumps and Silk Stockings Y o r 4 I r tr I Q k a r x S A House Footman's Double-Breasted Double Dress Coat to Be Worn Buttoned liveries of cf today are largely a survival of the old- old fashioned court dress dres As the tho world has become more democratic the dress worn at court functions has grown simpler but it still survives survives es in inthe inthe in inthe the servants' servants liveries In several e countries this dress has been somewhat elaborated and modified bat but its spirit remains unchanged Except in the tho palaces of ro royalty and then only on state occasions occasions occa occa- these fanciful costumes are arc rarely sc seen n abroad Even among people of the higher titles or of great t wealth the servants in European countries have o grown less conspicuous A correct livery is avery quiet affair alTair It is surprising to find America reviving th liveries of the past with such enthusiasm One will see seo on the streets of our American cities to toda today today day da liveries which were considered too conspicuous ous in Europe a generation g ago Each year seems to pro produce uce liveries more elaborate and more start startling startling ling in color and design than ever before The Th increase in the number and variety of liveries at t least lends a pleasant touch of color to our rather drab l life e. e |