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Show Se. The Salt Lake Tribune TRAVEL Sunday, September 7, 1997 R7 g 3 RAVELER’S BOOKSHELF Wilder Home in Missouri Was Final Stop on a FamousPath = = = BY AL HAAS Same tious trip to Europe. The sauce thickens when Kelly makes a bet with her lawyer boyfriend in which he agreesto pick up the tab Wourism employs more people aridwide than any other indusE So it's pretty obvious that a ‘of folks travel. Whatisn’t so if she and Stevens can eat in 29 ious is the psychologicalbasis three-star European restaurants in 29 days. fd travel, and how we might beneff fromit in deeply personal and @ BY BETH GAUPER KNIGHT-RIDDER NEWS SERVICE fashion maven Rachel“Rat” Kelly, to take a relaxing and nutri- SENIGHT-RIDDER NEWS SERVICE The adventure — and occasion- ingportant ways. al misadventure — begins in London, where Stevens’ wry sense of the ridiculous quickly becomes hese are the essential questigns psychologist Jeffrey Kottler tres to answer in a fascinating evident: beok called Travel That Can Ciixnge Your Life: How to Create azYransformative Experience “The Manitoba Coffee Shop wasin the heart of Sohoin a war- (Jossey-Bass, $20). ren of Malaysian noodle houses, record stores and sex shops... . But waiting for Rat's erstwhile “People travel for a variety of regsons, sometimes to escape the friend to appear, I started wondering why the Manitoba Coffee pepe of their lives, sometimes to aet out of defiance or rage, countéfact boredom,or avoid intimacy” says Kottler, a professor of Shop? What was it about the field has never beena particularly prosperous town. Lying in the heart of the Ozarks,its landscape though I’d never been to Manito- eral stores, two drug stores, two ba, it seemed a pretty sure bet that there was nota hidden colony of rabid coffee growers or drink- {Thetravel of changeis realized bystreating the trip as an adventure, Kottler contends. He advises yan to be flexible, and willing to ers,” @ Stonehenge Revealed, by Da- get out of your comfort zone. For exgmple: Hang out with thelocals vid Souden (Facts On File, $29.95). Standing in the midst of the Salisbury Plain,at the center of therichestvein of ancient monuments in Britain, Stonehengeis easily the most famous and most studied of prehistoric structures. It probably also qualifies as the ingtead of the tour group, avoid aécommodations and activities thigt are just like home, and know whpn to ignore the planned itiner- ary and seize the moment. 2STravel offers you more oppor- paglise to change your life than almost any other human behavid&’ says Kottler. “People who most mysterious. st{feture their journeysin partic- David Nolan(Vintage Books, paperback, $14). The author, who likes to take adventurous trips and write about them, has come @ Travels Along the Edge, by waysconsistently report dra‘ie gains in self-esteem, confi- déBice, poise,andself-sufficiency. THBy enjoy greater intimacy as a up with a kind of how-to book on such activities as kayaking the régult of bonds that were forged nder magical and sometimes ad- fiords of Greenland, and riding across the Mongolian steppes on descendants of Genghis Khan’s war ponies. vesse circumstances. ... They b@fome more knowledgeable alput the world, its fascinating customs, andits diverse people.” Thetrip that most appealed to Also on this month’s travel bookshelf: mewasthe jaunt to Snow Lake, a vast glacial basin in a remote region of Pakistan. Snow Lake, Nolan writes, is “so overwhelming in its visual power and drama and texture that a number of people ‘4 Feeding Frenzy, by Stuart Stévens (Atlantic Monthly Press, $23), The author is a New York travel writer and political consultant, whose books include Night Train to Turkistan and Malaria Dreams. This book is an engaging romp thathad its originsin a deci- sion by Stevens and his friend, who've been there havebeenwill- ing to put aside the dithering and declarethatthis is The Place. The Most Beautiful Place in the World.” Sept. 19-20. Noreserved seats, but no shortage of places. Admissionis $5, $2 children 6-12. Laura Ingalls Wilder Festival, Sept. 19-21 stroke that crippled him forlife. down and their cropsfailed. They movedto Florida, then back to De Smet. tourists, especially for the musical pageant in August and Sep- tember, the Wilder Festival in Red Apple. It was on the new rai! October. For Laura fans, this is where the treasureis. Lauralived to be churches, a school and a bank. They bought a parcel of rocky land on a ridge a mile east of town and began scraping together a liv- ing. Almanzo sold firewood in town and carted people and freight from the depot. Laura cooked meals for men working on the railroad. They raised apples, beans, sheep, goats, cows and hens; Laura became renowned for having hensthat lay eggs in winter, when no others would. But they never had muchuntil, at age 65, Laura published Little Housein the Big Woods, followed by the eight other books in what became the famouschildren's series. Theywereall written in Mans- field at what Laura called Rocky Ridge Farm, the final stop on a pilgrimage route that stretches from Pepin, Wis. to Burr Oak, Towa; Walnut Grove, Minn.; and De Smet. Since Laura’s death in 1957, fans have streamedinto the town of 1,400to see the house,the town and the cemetery where Laura, Almanzo and Rose are buried. September and Authors Day in 90, and family heirlooms and memorabilia ended upin the museum adjoining her house: The family Bible, with birth dates entered in flowing script. Laura’s and Mary's school slates, for which Pa barely eked out money in “On the Banks of Plum Creek.” The namecard of Nellie Owens, whom Lauracalled Nellie Oleson in her books. Laura’s teaching certificate. And the piecede 7esistance —Pa’s fiddle, whose merry tunes Laura carried in a cherished refrain from bookto book. On a dayin spring, the muse- um's guest book wasfilled with namesofvisitors from half a dozen states within an hour. Grown women were oohing and aahing overthe battered fiddle — ‘Pa actually played this for Mary and Laura,” they told their daughters reverently. In one corner, twolittle girls walked from Ma’s pearlhandledpen to a crazy quilt, their long black braids and anklelength plaid flannel dresses swishing. It's their everyday at- tire, said their mother, Char- With factory closings in the last maine Schafernakof Libertyville, mh. and empty storefronts line the quaint town square. It’s no longer knownforthe shining apples that drew hopeful settlers a centui ago. But the townstill fills with “Ever since they werelittle, I don’t know why, they've beenlike decade, Manstield has withered, Therewill be a trick mule Melissa Gilbert as Laura Ingalls Wilder in NBC's “Little House on the Prairie,” which ran from 1974 to 1983. When they had saved $100, line and had a flourmill, two gen- this,” she said. “If we could turn show, along with the crafts show, ponyrides, storytell- ing and old-time music the clock back for them, they'd also given on Saturday was starting a tour in Laura's bright-yellow kitchen, with the window through which Laura looked when she was doing te- wagons,will be heidSaturday. On Sunday, there’s lovethat.” In the house, Hazel Freeman dious chores and the feel of a child's playhouse. “Laura was a tiny little lady; that’s why the countersare so low,” she said Once, the kitchen was the couple’s entire house. They added room by room, each small, with low ceilings and sloping floors: the dining room, with the spindled rocking chair in which Laura answered mail and pile of birthday greetings Laura received a few days before her death; the parlor, with the fireplace made Children’s games, various contests and an11 a.m. parade, including covered gospel music, a dinner and homemadeice cream. Re serve accommodations early. (417) 924-8152 Authors Day at Rocky Ridgeis Oct. 18, with ap- pearances by Dean Butler, who piayed Almanzo on the TV “Little House” series, and by William An- derson. Accommodations: The Friendship House B&B in Mansfield is a not from brick but from three hugeslabsof stone from the farm, on which Laurainsisted (“For the brownstone built in 1939 by Laura's close friend only time in mylife, I made use of a woman's time-honored weapon, tears”’); the narrow, bright-green bedroom adorned with prints year. Sharon Davis runs it as a tribute to the 30s and from a Currier & Ives calendar; and the adjoining study with the secretary at which Laura wrote when she couldn't sleep. It’s all preservedasit wasin the 1940s and ‘50s, along with the pastoral views from the many windows, which Laura loved to watch andcalled her “pictures.” “She has windows everywhere,” said her daughter Rose, “not only in her house, but in her Neta Seals, who diedlast °40s, with old-fashioned furnishings, linens ironed on a 1930s mangle iron and huge breakfasts of fresh side pork, potatoes, scrambled eggs, gravy and biscuits baked in a 1948 gas stove. There's a shady back yard with pool. Four rooms, one with private bath and another with a kitchen, $60-$80. (417) 924-8511. mind.” ee 1s : Sail on Di sney Magic! 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CebuLauises CROSSROADS TRAVEL!!! 1275 E. Fort Union, Ste. 200 Grand Cayman, Cozumel, and [7 night FallCaribbean Cruises. nights to the Eastern Caribbean including SanJuan, St Thomas, St Maarten, and Nassau. Andon alternate weeks to the Western Caribbeanincluding Ocho Rios, Grand Cayman, your family and friends to be amongthefirst to vacation and cruise Disney style! Cozumel, and Key West Mercury, our newest Jewel, sails Sundaysfrom Ft, Lauderdalefor seven nights to the Western Caribbean including Key West Except cuisine. Impeccable service SE Dienep Chuise Line Exceeding expectations | (417) cal pageant, Sept. 5-6 and married, their barn burned. The next year, they contracted diphtheria, and Almanzo suffered a The year after that, their infant son died, their house burned 6-18. Events: “Little House Memories” outdoor musi- across the Midwest with her fam- they left for the Land of the Big h6Sds buttheir hearts and souls.” March1. Admissionis $5, $3 children 924-3626. ily, dogged by failure. Herlife with Almanzo seemed similarly destined: Two years after they trgasformative travel, an experienee that will touch notjust their Cream. Rocky Mountain Ice Laura Ingalls Wilder Historic Home: Open daily through Oct. 31, reopening their daughter, Rose. Asa child, Laura had zigzagged Cream? I'd spent years, off and on, around the Rockies and never stumbledacross a thriving indigenous ice cream culture. And tr@vel as a wayof changing something inside themselves. “Theyeffepfively seek a hero’s journey, field is in south-central Missouri, 70 miles northeast of Branson. is bucolic but barely fertile. ‘Others, however, are drawn to di Getting There: Mans- In 1894, however, a stream of People seeking better lives was flowing through this Gem City of the Ozarks, and among them was 27-year-old Laura Ingalls Wilder, who had traveled in a horsedrawn hack from De Smet, S.D., with her husband, Almanzo, and mountains or Great Plains of Canada that had even the remotest connection with coffee? “Across the street was a stand selling Rocky Mountain Ice ef eling 2nd educational psyopelogy at the University of Neva- IF YOU GO MANSFIELD, Mo. — Mans- “Price er perv, remuats cakero SalLake CH) pot ve ee fasea wie sharing 4 |