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Show fiFNJA:S H I ON 5 , fiHeJpS T JU: E T FLOCKS ' B " 11K first balmy, puusbino filled I days of c-arly spring iuny tuni I tin.- thoughts of tliw country girl I to spring flowers and now life, in evinced in the slowly opening buds on tlic tree and shrubs nil about her, but for the city bred girl cprinc-time cprinc-time mnst bo ushered ia through thoughts of now gowns am the attractive contrast of flower ami ribbon instead of fur and velvet decked liata. In t lib climate spring invariably arrive nnawaros. for nfler a preliminary spell of warm days late in February a brief reluru to wintry coM is almost sure to follow, so chill and unpleasant that all thoughts of anything nave fur lined garments "ro Pt away. This is on unkind trick to play upon poor woman, for the equally sudden return of seasonable heat always finds her unprepared. Wise indeed Is the pirl Vibo occupies the first Lenten weeks in preparing pre-paring the spring outfits for school and afternoon wear. It is obligatory that the school girl has her spring trousseau ready fur the first demands, for, saving the brief holiday week, she has little time for fittings. Yet she wears her gowns more regularly and constantly during her school days thau at any other time in her life. If the "host" winter coat and skirt costume is to be turned over to everyday wear for the spring, now is the time to have the interlining inter-lining taken out, new silk collar and cufTs added, the whole suit pressed and cleaned nnd the thin foulard or crepe do chine wnitt made for it in place of the heavy cloth worn during the winter. If there is to lie a new cost and skirt costume for school wear, the sooner it is begun the better. There has been a tendency during the last few years to do away with thr time honored custom of putting off until Faster Hay the donning of the spring outfit. Straw hats nre nowadays pretty generally gener-ally worn by the last week in March, nnd the Dew gowns sppoar jnst as poon as the weather will permit. The almost unprecedented un-precedented early date of Easter this year will not, therefore, cause any conspicuous con-spicuous difference in the lime of appearance appear-ance of new spring clothes. jjpigi Ri9tt : r4, effective frocks are mndo up in tussor, raj. ill, pongee anil the many different fubrics of that grade. There is a great wealth of color to choose from In the voiles, the brightest tones of cerise, pink and yellow ami the soft shades of apple green and the dark blues being oil in favor. Although occasionally a dark colored col-ored voile gown will turn out extremely well over a lining of pile shade or white, as u rule the dreys will be more effect ivo if made up on the same shade or over a changeable silk lining that will emphasise empha-sise the bright shade of the voile itself. There is unquestionably to bo a return this summer to the elbow and three-quarter three-quarter length sleeves, for practically nil elaborate spring gowns show an abbreviated abbrevi-ated sleeve length, but the style of afternoon after-noon gown suitable for a young pirl will be quite appropriate with full length sleeves should they be preferred. The Dutch neck gown is still also uudor discussion, many extremely pretty simple gowns being finished at the neck with a soft wide frill of plaited lace and no collar, the throe-quarter sleeve having a turned buck cuff effect formed of the name three inch frill caught up against tic material. This frill finishes off a transparent yoke of lace or tucked chiffon or cot. ALWAYS the firt consideration of a season's outfit is the street costume, and a smart coat and skirt of medium me-dium weight serge or broadcloth Is the most necessary part of the spring trousseau trous-seau for all ages, Coats and skirts of the same material are now made up for even very Little girls, who hove the fckirt finished with nuspondor straps or gnimpe effect and coat fashioned on loose jarket or reefer liues, but long enough almost to cover the entire skirt nnd possible to wear occasionally an a separate cloak. Even for the youngest girls it is worth while to provide a fairly expensive tailor coiturne, for an absolutely plain coat uud skirt do not go out of fashion, nnd they receive such bard and constant wear that a good quality of material is necessary. No texture is so good at this time of year as a medium weight serge, unless it be, perhaps, a fine quality of light cheviot It is a mistuko for the spring suit to too light, for the average April and May weather is either quite raw, demanding warmth in the street dress, or else so hot that any cloth is uin omfortable. As this ron'utiit- will be the travelling suit for the summer us well as the gown which receive hardest usage during the first part of the autumn, it ruu.st certainly not be of too thin a texture. There is a return re-turn this year to the plaiu weaves of gown more attractive. Ihroughout the spring a gown of. dark blue serge made absolutely plain, with blouse waist and plaited skirt relieved only by lace or lawn collar and cuffs, con be lined for street wear with or without a jacket of the same, material. A dress of this description is also most useful for the schoolroom. Among the latest Parisian costumes are the seamless waLsts and coats, but just what degree of popularity will be accorded this fashion in yonng girls' frocks remains to be seen. When sleeve amL shoulder show no line of demarka-liou demarka-liou the chest is apt to look contracted, or nt any rate too narrow lo be attractive, mid 'it culls for a very trim little figure indeed to look really neat and well turned out in this style of dress. For quite little girls, however, all loose, rounded lines are desirable. rOR afternoon the different voiles are giuarlest of all materials for young girrs, but as these require a silk foundation foun-dation less expensive and about equally serge, although all the fancy stripes and ribbed effects arc .still iu evidence. rOR the girl to whom blue h becoming becom-ing there is no suit so satisfactory as a smart, simply made coat nud skirt of dark blue serge. Relieved by touches of light blue or white on the rovers and inn's and in the hat the color can be inside appropriate for almost any afternoon after-noon use, and then when it is desired to put it into hard wear later ou lio shade Is less tiresome to wear nor more serviceable for all manner of occasions. The different tones of gray take the place of blue wheu that i-olor is unbecoming, unbe-coming, and gray in all tones, from darkest dark-est London smoke to pnlest silver shade, Is decidedly one of the season's! colors. J'.right colors may be introduced in the hat, but for the coat of a gray costume white flannel or palest gray on a deeper tone is more youthful and always more attractive than wheu any contrast is introduced. in-troduced. The jaekets of the present season are once again made senii-fitted back and front, sleeves small but not absolutely tight, are double breasted, a good three-quarters in length this hi tin- ever I favorite tailor coat, which remains in 'fashion with but small alterations siason after season, year iu and year out There are always, of course, elaborate models introduced, in-troduced, these designs this year taking the form of Ku.-sian blouses of all possible lengths ami varieties. It requires a slender figure to look well. In a Russian blouse, so that naturally this fashion has already found special favor among all arbiters of young girls' costumes. Some few of these jackets arc iuito long, bnt the majority reach ju.-t a liitlo In-low the hips with the fancy belt designating the natural line of the waist. Embroidered collar, revert ind cuffs' and perhaps fancy buttons all help to make of a Russian blouse an I'lalmrate style of dress suitable for afternoon wear. , Skirls on: quite different this year from last iu that they nre Js-iiledly full, and to de-enbo the diffortmt varieties of plaited ami gored models, would require many columns. For young girls the deep yoke with plaited flounce added just at the knees is still a favorite design, nnd while there are plain, circular nnd also flaring, tuuny-gorcd skirts to be seen, plaited skirl nre more becoming uml are therefore more in favor. Separate stitched belts of the material have made their uppearauce again, but the skirt j fitted about the waist to a band of stiffj honed beltiug and finished off without aj belt is still smart. The beltiug is quite narrow, though, being seldom seou more than one and a half or two inches wide, instead of the three and four inch belting belt-ing formerly made nso of. DARK linings the color of the cloth or a few tones lighter, but of the same shade, ur used altogether in. all jackets, while if there is not a drop skirl attached to the skirt Itself then the silk-petticoat silk-petticoat must be of the right shade' for the serge, or cloth. Many spring costumes for young girls show a simple gown of serge made In one piece, with waist lined only with china silk, having a jacket of the snrao serge to complete the dress. If the very softest and lightest weight forgo la employed this gown is not too warm for early spring, but the jacket should have a heavy satin lining to make up for the extremely thin grade of the serge. It would perhaps be more sensible for this gown to be made with bodice ami skirt separate, so that wheu desired a thin white blouse could take the place of the cloth waist. Collar nnd tiny yoke should be of transparent net or lace, nud while cuffs will also make the simple |