t I 1 S b S III christmas fashions of paris 1 3 A tl V W Y S dec it a quite the tad of the moment here in paris for the women to drop in for a cup of tea at ane ot the fashionable tearooms tea rooms you know we are all very english nowadays in our customs and sports and this 6 function has been taken up with enthusiasm the true really loathes the cup that cheers tout there are nice little substitutes in which the aletter 0 the law Is adhered to and the spirit 18 not found wanting the talk at these rooms where women most do congregate Is about christmas and christinas presents judging from the conversations overheard every woman hopes to wake up christmas morning to fand herself the possessor of pearls in some form they look so well with the white costumes which are the craze just now by the way the smartest thing in the jewelry line Is to have ones jewels tone in with the dress scheme and the designer is putting forth strenuous efforts to make toilet a success in this particular for instance a collar and waist buckle of amethyst worn witha with a mauve gown trimmed in dark fur and wool lace would be stunning I 1 noticed some beautifully tailored walking rocks at the tearoom the tac that nyme quarters the short skirt is cried downa walk on the udas soon proves its popularity as almost every all gowned w oman wears one of many times when they are om 0 place and they tong trained one la de rigueur but it is certainly the moment for the well shaped skirt which just clears the ground and or the smartly made blouse jacket some of the latter re continued in pointed basques back and front but the majority finish at the waist with a band of the material beneath a blight couching pouching pou ching oattie cloth the short skirt if properly cut Is practical and graceful for walking purposes strange as it may seem to tho uninitiated in matters sartorial it Is not every tailor who can cut one of these skirts it is as essential nowadays to have a well skirt as a coat without ac wrinkle and the most suitable style la the flat band round the aps slightly pointed at the back and front giving a curve that makes a pretty line from this band the skirt hangs in rather wide kalte plaits stitched in a graduated fashion to the knees and left to flow loose at the feet it la absolutely indispensable pen sable to a graceful effect that the portion near the boots be wide tor the simple reason that the fullness minimizes the size of the feet it is also important be well booted when wearing the walking skirt flat heels pointed toes and the finest glace kid are the requisites of shoes and boots that make for elegance the pa flisian women never took kindly to the dull box toed english shoe the high louis XV heel is never seen on the shoes of women who know how to dress they would consider their toilet as incorrect with a high heel boot as with a torn veil or foiled gloves several elegant toilets of white taffeta were been the other night at the comelle francois one of them was especially lovely with a shaped flouncy clinging close to the figure was ut in one elih the bodice which was quite loose in front being simply swathed across in unstudied folds the back hung in plaits and in the center between the shoulders was a large butterfly bow of black lace two smaller bows ornamented the shoulders there was no other yet it was very graceful in its simplicity it you want a pretty inexpensive on the skirt the hem being trilled with plaited de sole this flounce was headed at intervals with bows ot white lace connected by wreaths of tiny pink roses with gray foliage the bodice was a blouse opening widely over a stomacher composed entirely of rosea and foliage A bertha of white lace surrounded the bodice and a strap ot lace crossed over the shoulder from which fell a garland of roses reaching halt way down the arm A narrow band ot lace encircled the waist which waa held together at the back by a huge bow of lace with long bends another attractive frock was worn by a woman who eat ln a box looking serenely pleased with herself and the world at large a striking evidence of the consolation to be found in a becoming gown this affair was of the empire style in crepe de chine of a peculiar amber color the long trailing skirt evening frock why not purchase a I 1 white net with laces insertions and tr illings athla delicate tull ellke net Is very modish mt now and he laces though hand bomer than ever are not as expensive as they were you may use an old satin or alk alap very nicely tor the foundation but be sure to tise as much chiffon as circumstances warrant to botten the net the padding pt chiffon Is halt the battle to a successful finish I 1 the insertions will redeem the skirt from plainness A bolero effect lai becoming to hang the lace around the bodice nearly all the evening bodices bo dices and blouses have lace or some other thin matei la arranged ih fashion for a girlish evening frock black net Is very good alth lace applied in somewhat the same way as the Is on the white net chloae a lace in which the sequins are small as large ones are very garish A dress 0 his kind Is much prettier fora for a young girl than a regular do not have any of your dancing frocks what I 1 call trailing but let them make a pretty frisky troth around the feet taking a line on the door at the back the serpentine air has been overdone and Is no longer the proper t caper for the small dinner parties that but utterly out of place at a private house in the rush that characterizes the fashionable comans womans life there Is the fear that ane or otrich of the tempting inflations lations must be missed so a smart bev have hit upon the idea of dining at a cert atit house and leaving at the end tt for the gym nase or go they dine en chapeau this Inn Mitlon has given ot bense in more than tone instance and in all probability otherwise jt will become necessary to add a line to the invitation card to the effect that ladles arc not admitted to with their hats on 0 i he theatre francala bear an inscription with regard to la dies wearing haa in the stalls and there Is no reason it the situation demanda it wayt ne hostesses who object to the guest should not notify them of course we accept the fashion at luncheon and acknowledge ita usefulness ful ness there 18 BO much to be done during the day that the luncheon party only occupies the time of a friendly call nut dinner la another story we are more ceremonious and at the same more hospitable jn tact tho at seem to be the 01 sw 0 the day there Is an attempt to alna in a ha with the low de sole dress athla mode Is ell enough at a restaurant A wi irta t fair lies in a nutshell vo win not allow an invitation to our house to treated like an invitation to a restaurant speaking 0 hats reminds me that they have never been prettier the new small turban toque seems to me the best thing brought out for many a long day very chic too Is the hat white french sailor covered with black chenille dots and a touch of green with geneat knots of the green falling on the hair at the back white Is very desirable on the head and revala black in popularity A lovely email white turban had a narrow band of brown velvet the only other trimming consisting of an enormous enor moui thick brown ostrich feather stuck like a quill through the brim A large white hat which appealed iff me had a single black velvet bow forming the bandeau and two black ostrich feathers to come back to skirts there Is a striking innovation in the way of full skirts which la becoming more the vogue each day several well known houses have ventured to adopt this mode in designing toilets with quite voluminous skirts tor their patrons who figure among the most perfectly dressed women in the gay capital for evening gowns made of the new soft velour it Is an dainty style the skirt gathered finely from a very narrow hip piece below the waist falls in graceful folds to the base nalle a deep shaped guipure embroidered collar on combines in the picturesque the finest and most supple cloah fa gathered and plaited across the haps from which appears a fullness remind ing one of the old styles toa to slight figure it Is very becoming two striking gowns worn by jane hading in la chatelaine are yell worth describing the first in white crepe de chine has a pretty adeep shoulder cape embroidered with chinchilla fura yellow velvet collar giving the only note of color the second tol let Is of ocher colored lace having large silver and strass buttons ornamenting the together with sliver embroidery and fringe as a decoration to the collar and hem of the princess robe the viennese are pressing the french coutur leres very hard and some of their confections confect ions are exquisite qui site especially beautiful waa a gown in white the very thick and long hair giving the impression of fur the flaring skirt had incrustations of yak lace with little boba of white woolly stuff all over it A bolero formed of the lare was the waist decoration and the becoming touch of color was given by a burnt orange choker these also composed a theater coat ot all over irish lace which relied upon the perfection of its cut tor distinction if was cut low as are all the swagger evening coats indeed they come well off the shoulders and many of them cut away like a mans evening coat A most remarkable coat for a grande dame is made of over a hundred rabbits ears poor little bunny base uses he haa descended it reminds one of mark anthonys An tonys appeal to the romans fickle fashion is constant only to a constant change but there are certain combinations of which we never tire for example white velvet or thick cream oriental satin trimmed with old lace and sable say what you will this combination Is never out of place so long as it is made by a master hand emerald green bright I 1 cerise and a lovely shade of rose pink i are popular but women who look best in grays taint malves mauves and are wise to remain faithful to these shades after all there are possibilities in every color but fashion decrees that each woman shall adopt one or two soft shades for her own CATHERINE OT