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Show i W tftiimsi to ldpRidel:' LATE FASHION NOTES. Velvets, both plain and fancy, are to be very much worn. Ilaid silk linings appear in some of the wool ilits s skirts. Habit black skirts and twenty-one inch jackets are conspicuous amont' new fall models. Round handkerchiefs embroidered with your favorite flower is the latest fad. Lace and chiffon boas are the fashionable fashion-able lancy in neckwear, for the first cool days before furs are in order. Long coats and cloaks in the old three-quarter three-quarter length are the special features among: the new wraps. The golf cape is tho mort popular ycrap for full wear. The large uteres, it is said, find the demand for it greater than they can supply. j Narrow bands of fur. and especially ; sa'blo. are a prominent feature of dross, trimming f(r-, gauzy evening; gowns as well as velvet and cloth costumes. Blue promises to be a favorite color in the Miadf s ranging from cadet to violet blue, indipo, navy, royal and dull turquoise. tur-quoise. Black velvet embroidered in Oriental 1 '.vie ns with gold braid and colored silks, is ui-J effectively for yoke, collar and vest of an imported gown of old rose red cloth. Velvet ribbons will be much used. Narrow Nar-row ribbons will be as popular as ever, and can be Sound in i'ersian pattern, plaids, pretty flowered effects and in many iiew designs. NEW FABRICS IN THE EAST. Now York. Oct. 24. Moired velvet is one of the few fabrics we have never seen before, and that Is coming to the front as. a goods for handsome, simple sim-ple trained; skirts to wear withfancy - theatre waists, and it comes most aptly into play for ornamental collars, belts, i ever facings, hat folds and ornamental waistcoats. We 'do see here and there whole gowns of it, tind one- of the. most attractive bridal costumes inade for an October wed- ding was all of white moire velvet hung with white si3k fringes of divers lengths. Turning over other interesting contribution. con-tribution. s of the manufacturers to the hoards of fabrics turned out this autumn, we find a strongly appealing novelty under the appropriate title of larc-en-ciel, for it is a fine white cloth to wonderfully dyed, that an opalescent minbow stripe, now appearing, now disappearing-, like tho colors in a nhot silk, runs through every width. L'are-en-ciel had been put forward especially for the make-up of theatre and reception gowns, white it is not a little used for thei troupes of bridesmaids brides-maids now in dressmakers' hands. Most popularly it is garnished with lines of clear brown fur. mink. Alaska nable, etc. and heavy cream cluny and Renaissance lace. Running" over a row of coveta.ble toilets toi-lets at any wideawake dressmaker's, the inference is clear that something is being used to break the shoulder line, to relieve the flatness 'of the upper half of the s'leeve where it enters the srmhole. Many waists show ridged tucks at the shoulder point, a broad rover collar is allowed to sweep low-over low-over the sleeve, or a couple of caps give width, and grace to the should-ens, Every where is d' oted a reprehensible tendency to breast the sleeve line with round decoration on the upper or the forearm, elre at the elbow a littfle frill runs around the arm and below it to the waist, tucked chiffon or lace extends ex-tends in a long, close cuff. Beyond thee criticisms none but flattering comments are to be made of dress waists as they now reveal themselves, them-selves, and powerful as has been the effort to coax women to accept more decoration orii their skirts, the waists of the majority of gowns continue to steal all the real glory and; color of the costumes. On fome of them the mcst intricate and coquettish, Litt'le waistcoat waist-coat arrangements are adopted, and the waist of a cloth gown will open its velvet-faced rever collar first to reveal a waistcoat of soft, striped silk, and inside this a second vest of satin overlaid with lace, upon which is draped, through jeweled buckles a necktie of liberty siatim "What with the barrel-shaped buttons) and the stitoh-ingrs stitoh-ingrs on the little cloth garment itself, the waist of this pearl-gray cloth suit reflected seven different but perfectly accordant colors and five different fabrics. What fills the soul of the lover of neck novelties with joy unconfined is the high stiff dark velvet stock that hooks behind but shows two rows of glittering little buttons ruming- up the hack. This is fastened about the neck of any gown and then a satin, ribbon of Htme pale color is slipped about the throat at the top of this collar, and ln-Fide ln-Fide it. drawn to the front and tied so that its ends, garnished with tabs- of the most delicate white point lace, fasten in a, bow crisp as a fresh blown Thite rose right under the chin. A Jong throat and a proudly poised chin are necessary if one would wear this novelty, wh'.le something not less pretty And original, and more comfortable, is a collar of folded panne with two Jily petal-shaped pieces, deftly wired, faced Ivitn. satin ana turnea. oatK in long outstanding points from either . side under the ears.- So long are sotme of lhpe collar points that they extend four inches out from the collar band and then droop and touch the shoulder S(sam, and are at once eccentric and becoming. be-coming. EVENING WRAPS. The. woman possessed of good taste In dress will, no doubt, find in the following fol-lowing notes on new fashions, clipped from the Boston Herald, a nice idea or two: For evening wear, the shawl-shaped cape, very long and pointed behind, Fhwter in front, and scant and sloping of shoulder, is still the correct thing, and is, if anything, closer in its outlines lhan on its first appearance last win-' win-' ter. Newer than these are the shawl-phaped shawl-phaped coats, in every way like the phawl cape, except that they have sleeves- and some sort of an elaborate shoulder collar. They ttre longer behind be-hind than in front, and slightly curved into the figure at the waistline, although al-though almost straight. This demi- redingote, as the Parisians call it, is equally fetching of lace and fur for evening wear, of silk and embroidery for afternoon, or of cloth for driving and walking. Two very dressy ones are lovely examples ex-amples that will be worn here in Boston Bos-ton this winter. The first is of white satin, with a shaped flounce, very scant, set on to give a slight ripple to the longer and pointed back. This foundation is covered cov-ered with the straight, smooth breadths of white English point lace shawl, the edge of the lace coming to within four inches of the edge of the satin foundation, founda-tion, which is finished simply with a thick piping of white. The coat laps over the front, and fastens down the left side with rosettes of rose velvet, and a shirred rose chiffon capuchin hood about the shoulders has a turned-up turned-up border of pink velvet, covered with en embroidery in which threads of sable i fur and motifo of ivory lace are blended. blend-ed. This hood also fastens in front on the left side with a pink rosette. The shirred chiffon choker is gathered through jeweled slides at intervals, and above it there is a flare of lace tipped with a delicate edge of sable. The lather big straight coat sleeves have a bell-shaped flare at the hand, which turns back to form a wide cuff, this .faced with embroidery like that on the hood. The second shawl-shaped coat is exactly ex-actly similar In shape, and is built of longitudinal strips of black point d'es-prit d'es-prit and black Ohantilly lace insertions Joined with lines of black velvet baby r" ribbon and laid smoothly over a white satin foundation. Thtre are deep flounces of black lace over white about the scant hem, which is longer and pointed behind. Black - velvet bows fasten it together in front, and triple scalloped collars of white satin with applique motifs of black Chantilly and edged with narrow black silk fringe cover the narrow shoulders. ... ' . A short theatre wrap of changeable taffeta, in rose and gold, is fetching, shirred all about the neck and hanging full and crisply well below the tournure behind, but rounding up somewhat shorter in front, its edge, to the very throat, trimmed with a rush of pinked taffeta. It hooks together down the' front, has beruched arm slits on each side and ao capuchin hood of the same taffeta shirred about the throat, and with its edge turned up and gathered under a silk ruching. A ruch of white lace about the top of a tight choker of black velvet, with a bow in front, is awfully fetching. Not so coquettish, but more elegant, is a close-fitting shawl wrap of ivory guipure, hooped in three places with ! bands of sable fur, a wide one at the j bottom, above a deep flounce of guipure i which finishes the hem, a somewhat ! narrower band of sable about the el- I bows; the third, narrower still, just be-now be-now the curve of the shoulders. The ; lace collar is sable-lined. Handsome : coral and pearl clasps fasten the cloak ; on the bust at the point where the three bands of sable, narrowing to a . point, meet the lace flounce also dimin ishing to a point at this clasp. GIFTS FOR CHRISTMAS. Christmas approaches, and the time is drawing near when girls are beginning begin-ning to think of what they shall make for their friends. And at this time also the church fairs are being organized, and people are putting their heads together to-gether and thinking out articles that will sell quickest and cheapest. There are many articles, too numerous, in fact, to mention, for embroidery, and girls who have skillful fingers and are good needleworkerf;. will always,, find this an extremely " fascinating occupation. occupa-tion. Perhaps the prettiest flowers to embroider those which show off best because of the amount of shading are pansies, nasturtiums, peach blossoms, wild roses, roses clematis, tiger lilies and blue flags. Autumn leaves furnish also splendid designs. Then there are the violets with their rich purple coloring color-ing that are also very pretty, although not so showy as many others. There are doilies centerpieces,' try cloths, individual in-dividual plate doilies and a long list of other articles which may be embroidered. embroi-dered. Articles of crochet and knitted work, as well as netting, tatting and macrene are prettily made and very effective, and will always sell readily. Small fancy bags, catch-all, laundry bags, handkerchief cases, . cases for gloves, veils and the like are also salable sala-ble and very useful as holiday presents. pres-ents. One pretty bag may be made by taking tak-ing a tin lid for the foundation and cutting cut-ting a piece of cloth the same size,' allowing al-lowing for a half inch seam. Join around this a piece of cloth about six or eight inches deep for the bag portion and hem at the top, making a place for q Hrairinir trino- anH vnn have ft eom- plete. Another style is to take a piece o cloth, cutting three4 diamond-shaped pieces from it about four inches square. Join in seams, the lower halves of the three diamonds making one point at the end. Now, with a piece of cloth of a contrasting color or design, make the sides of the bag by cutting the lower edge to fit the points of the foundation bag and allow for a bit of fullness: gather and join in seams, and you will find your bag shaped in Van Dyke points, with a straight edge at the top and by inserting a pretty ribbon with a small bow of ribbon: a ball or a pon-pan pon-pan may finish the point at the bottom. A third bag, which may be used as a sewing bag, may be made thus: Take two pieces of cardboard about six or more inches square and round the two lower corners for. the sides of the bag; cover these. Then take a strip the desired de-sired width for a pretty puff, gather and join only to the sides and round the edge of the stiffened pieces, leaving the top straight edge alone. Insert a gathering string in the top of the bag and through the straight edge, and the bag may be large enough for almost all work. Needle cases and pen wipers are also salaelbe articles, and make acceptable gifts. A pretty needlebook is made by covering a piece of cardboard four I inches by seven inches with a piece of velvet and line with a piece of silk Fold in the middle to form the book and sew througrh the fold with fancy stitches three or four strips of alternate alter-nate red and white flannel or heavy wool, the same size as the outside cover. The edges of the flannel are prettier with buttonholed scallops and cut edges. Pen wipers are easiest made of pieces of gentlemen's heavy suiting, cut in many Miapes suar-snapea, rouna ana scalloped or pointed, and then joined on a straight edge. These need hot be finished oft! at the edges, as the heavy suitings do not fray and are prettier raw. Handkerchief,' veil and glove cases maybe made alike and used for one or more things. The prettiest and sim-plist sim-plist are made of a strip of linen cut about thirty inches long and twelve inches wide. Embroider all around a small, dainty border of forget-me-nots wild roses or violets. Fold this strip ir the middle, making a long book, ana fold once more each end inside to the middle fold, making four folds all told two outride and two inside; then stitch across the upper and lower edges anc scallop and buttonhole, as either way is pretty. If desired the edge may be bound with silk braid the color, of the flowers worked. To the first and thirc fold may be attached a piece of ribbor for tying, but this is not necessary Inside the two. pockets will be found the receptacle for the dainties. THE HOUSEHOLD. , Coffee Cake. One cup brown sugar, one cup molasses, one cup butter, one cup coffee, one cup raisins, one cup currants, one' tablespoonful cloves, cinnamon and allspice, one teaspoon soda, nutmeg, two eggs. Msh, poultry and game, if useful and popular on no other occasions, are infinitely in-finitely so when appetites fail. No other provisions afford so many varieties of dishes which are both nutritious and pleasing; no others are equailv relished. Cream for coffee may be manufactured I an,d the forgery seldom detected bv beating beat-ing the yolk of an egg with one taWe-Fpoonful taWe-Fpoonful of cold water, heating the milk and pouring over the egg. stirring constantly con-stantly when the boiling hot coffee is added. When a. fowl to be used for stew is old it is greatly-improved by putting a pint, or a couple of. pinis. of milk into the water that the chicken is boiled in. It gives a flavor to the meat besides making it juicy, and whitens it up. so that in appearance ap-pearance it is a young chicken. When opening a bottle of olives, remember remem-ber that any you are-not using at once should be replaced . in. the liquor, in -the bottle and tightly corked again as quickly as possible. If hy any . chance the.liquor has been thrown away.- put them m a strong solution . of .suit- and water and tightly cork.- - :;- , . Water in which' a cMcken or -mutton has been boiled may bp used for soup, but it is often throw n into the sink rfgardless-to rfgardless-to the grease that is in it. and as a consequence conse-quence the drain pipe' gets stopped up. and before one knows there Is-a. plumber s bill to be paid. " This is-nue'case out .jC hundreds hun-dreds where one extravagance grows out of another.. ' ' . - '.' Best Way to Keep Cheese. Not every housekeeper knows that the best wav to ke.p cheese in. good condition is to "put it in the refrigerator. This method prevents pre-vents it from getting soft and oiv in the summer and' from getting hard and dry in the winter. Wrap the-cheese in a I clean cloth and again brown paper and lay it on the ice. Cheese preserved in this way, does not become mouldy. Toast is with good reason considered in-1 in-1 valids' food, for the process of toasting j turns part of the starch of the bread into i dextrine, which, is digested with great ! ease. Bread for toast must be cut thin and first dried out at a little distance ? from the fire, then brought nearer and,1 ' browned. Yoti may then serve it as a dry toast lightly buttered, or in addition' to the butter and a little salt, pour hot water or milk on it' just before serving-. FOR DAMP CUPBOARDS. Capes of plaid wool are seen in great I Variety, not merely of f.-olor, but of , style. The: almost all have a hoed of j one kind or another, a hood which is ; really practicable and may be drawn i over the head in case of necessity. As I j for the decoration, that takes all sorts ' of odd forms, and, while the shape of , capes is, generally speaking, the same i that is, they all cling about the shoul- j I ders and flare more or less toward t'ie i I edge the finish differs greatly in differr j ent garments. One will have a circular I flounce around the curved edge, an- I I other will have reyors with fringe and I large buttons, while a third, newer I i than the others, will be cut so that it j 6lopes to a sh-awi point at the back, j while. around the shoulders are other j fringed points sewed on. The plaids ; employed are often very bright and : are unlined, the reverse, which is plain, , serving for trimming. AN AUTUMN HAT. Nothing could be smarter than a charming fe,lt and silk hat for autumn. The rather wide and flexible brim is faced with tucked pearl-colored silk; it rolls high on the loft side and against the hair rests a cluster of velvet tulip petals, pale lilac and yellow. Around the crushed crown is draped a scarf of soft black faille, the fringed .ends of which knot at the back and fall grace- J fully to within an inch of the shoulders. Heaped in effective marges on the cen- i ter of the hat are many of the tulips, lending an appearance of singular beauty to the composition. PLAID CAPES. Nothing is more in vogue this season than silk, chiffon, satin or crepe bodices, bo-dices, having the surface of the goods closely covered by row after row of .gathered baby ribbon. In this manner effective contrasts are arranged, and it is even, successful in furbishing- up an old waist to look like new. The bodice I pictured here is a costly importation of black silk muslin over a silk foundation, founda-tion, the ribbon satin-edged and very decorative. It shows the inevitable reverses re-verses and full jabot, both conspicuous features of this season's styles. AN ALL ROUND HAT. A delightfully pretty and becoming hat is one designed for all times and seasons, handsome enough for the theatre, the-atre, and yet so complete and simple in style as to serve for shopping and street wear as well. The frame is of velvet, a rich marine blue, on which recto q nart of tho eriiSTv roll of silk encircling the crown of velvet shirred into a high coronet. A magnificent rhinestone ornament holds two dashing dash-ing quills in place, directly above the face, while glowing color in the silk at the back provides a pleasing decoration. decora-tion. SHOULDER SCARFS. Damp cupboards and rooms can be made dry and airy by placing a basin of 'fresh lime where the moisture -penetrates to the detriment of food, linen, etc. The lime quickly absorbs the unwholesome un-wholesome humiditv and the remedy need only be repeated every now vid then. In living rooms, which are not to be depended upon as being as dry as would be desirable, it is advisable to place saucers containing salt under sofas, etc. This will absorb the moisture mois-ture ini a wonderful manner. If thoroughly thor-oughly dried, the salt can be used again for the same purpose. A BEWITCHING TOQUE. A bewitching little toque, called La Belie Amie, has attracted great attention. atten-tion. The foundation is ofaspen-green velvet. A sweeping arch of the brim in front is broadly bound with ashes of rcses velvet veined by threads of silver. A huge rosette of crisp, snow-white snow-white mousseline de soie deftly curled to look like a newly blown flower rests on the apex of the brim, and lends light and color to the face. On the left side falls a mass of metallic green efathers, changing to bronze and blue in the sun. BODICES. The new shoulder scarf, which is made of the same material as the gown, and edged around with a frill of lace or of the goods, is exceedingly graceful, and gives a Persian touch to a toilet. It is worn low over the shoulder and fastened at the waist with a fancy buckle. A SIMPLE NEGLIGE. The very simplicity of It makes a little neglige the more pleasing. It is of rose-colored cashmere, trimmed with tea-tinted lace, set or to fall with jabot fullness down the front and hang in deep ruffles over the hands. |