Show 0 one 1 le piece frock ock still in favor I 1 this season might be termed one in which fashions that buve been floating about like straws in tile the breeze breese become crystallized it Is a question observes a fashion writer as to whether dressmakers are less creative than of yore or whether the styles or of the past two years haie pleased women so thoroughly that they are loath to abandon them it must be an said id that in the near past designers attempted new and wider silhouettes but these did not frock of blue serge with white cire braid around the bottom of the box plaited skirt the cape collar and pointed edge of the bodice find any permanent favor there are always a few women looking tor for novelties and these were the only ones oner to whom the fantastic features of the hip extended frocks appealed the absolutely refused to adopt them french women awve worn too many good clothes and are too fond of their personal appearance to accept anything fantastic or bizarre the majority of our stiles vre tte launched in paris but there have been general points in dress on which the american woman noman and the lenne have disagreed on oil the silhouette lette however they are absolutely of one mind it Is a tribute to the good taste of women that they continue to hold to the simple beautiful one piece frock refusing to go contrary to the principles of good goltl liiste and refinement in dress so out of all the models with aston astonishing leAng hip extensions unusual girdling loops and draperies the well dressed woman has continued to hold to the straight tine frock rind the natural silhouetted silhouette fashion strikes no new chords the clothes of this winter while most interesting and pleasing bring with ith them no startling new dew notes even those shown by callot soeurs comprise models of all the types brought out by this house for the alst few seasons callot Is showing straight dresses of square cut that is hanging from the shoulders iNith without out being drawn in at it alie ie waist by means of a belt this straight belt less dress has been a cl lot favorite for some time and nothing could be more beautiful than a plain dress unbelted provided it Is made of a suitable material it certainly offers a wonderful background for exquisite embroidery designs this firm shows very full da dancing dresses such as were worn by the beauties of the 1830 period the draped wrapped around the figure type of gowns having very sheer bodices and dresses with apron tunics flounces and scallops also little chemise dresses belted at a normal waistline many of ballots Cal lots evening gowns lire very although the he square neck and the straight across lines also fire are featured for day wear this firm shows high collars and long sleeves as well ns as collarless models with short sleeves straight boxlike dresses dr unbelted nrc are made of serge davelyn and blaek kasha again these dresses are of tulle brocaded cropes and chiffon of bright colors worn oner oer narrow foundation slips of velvet and satin often these lips are trimmed at tile the bottom of ill the skirt with a band of embroidery from one to three inches ovide shirt bosom and bell sleeves an interesting model shows a narrow iro sv found foundation atlon dress of blue satin at a normal waistline Is a narrow red ribbon belt tied in the front with loops and round streamer ends over this ahli foundation Is hung a straight dress of blue plaited ch chiffon liton the bodice has baa r bosom front at each side of which illich the chiffon Is platted plaited A six rich inch band ot of chiffon Is set in at a normal waistline but Is not drawn into the figure thus preserving the straight line there la Is a high collar and long ions bell sleeves another noteworthy model showing thy the shirt bosom front Vs is developed 01 1 in black and blue satin the dress Is of blue A satin and app liqued motifs of the black satin the entire dress Is plaited on each hip the skirt shirt Is cut so as to form two triangles revealing an of scarlet satin tae the edges of the triangle are bound with scarlet there Is a high collar with buttons down tile the front buttons also appear on oil the boboc front fron t the sleeves are ion ions A novel idea Is the use of tho the wrong and right sides of satin and bio cades thus thug a dress of brown crepe satin shows the dull side extending down the front in tour four in averted box plaits which end in a band at the bottom of the skirt the band Is of the lie right or shiny side of the satin the sides are formed of the shiny side which loop and make the back there Is a narrow belt short cap sleeves and straight across neck lace dyed in dazzling hues the iise ase of lace is nn an important factor for entire dresses or as a trimming in many instances the lace Is ded a I 1 brilliant color It Koul lle or rust a i color very popular the last two seasons in materials such as crepe de chine crepe georgette chiffon arol is now considered the nor ncr elty color for lace dresses diessel and is fi aured by callot on oil a i frock of ro rouelle roul utile lle or rust col co ored crepe de chine and lace the same shade the plain bodice and plaited skirt tire ore of the crepe de chine and tile the overdress of lace the blouse falls loosely over ever a lace sash tills sash ties low on the hips at the left side the sleeves are very short and tight fitting another model shows a very full skirt of rust colored tulle having two flounces of black cliant chantilly illy lace irce each flounce edged nt at the lie top with a rose plaiting of the tulle the bodice Is very sheer in the center front at s normal waistline is a large black velvet flower an attractive method of using lace as a trimming Is seen in a dress of brown velvet the entire dress is of the he velvet and has a low waistline bodice there Is no fastening it slips on over the head over the narrow foundation skirt is hung a knife plait ed lace tunic in vandyke points the lace appears again as an for the straight neck and short sleeves slee ies while fur Is used more sparingly than hitherto a number of novel ways of applying it to suits coats and dresses have been worked out it Is used on both suits and dresses to edge trimming bands of velvet which may black cloth dress with the bodice and apron drapery cut in one piece monkey fur forms tufts on the skirt and edges the sleeves 6 be applied in loop form also to border short box bos coats that end about tour four inches below the waistline bands of the fur are placed up and down the front and continue around the bottom of the coat sometimes the band la Is omitted from the bottom of the jacket and the skirt will show a baud band of 0 fur where the jacket ends thus giving the appearance of a fur edged jacket plush sometimes Is substituted for fur on the bottoms of skirts and for collars and cuffs |