Show MUK otio TC 1 b S AI akal A 0 17 TO T 1 U S W E EP I 1 limb T 1 I 1 clr E ap nea york lt it Is lir kult to talk ot of economy and conservation in respect to a brand new fashion that is hurled burled at us out of the hie blue yet tile the combination is not only possible but oftentimes satisfying what is called the new skirt was advanced last december in america by american designers and it hail had been exploited here tor for house gowns six months month s before so it Is not new recites a fashion correspondent it night might be called a purely american design doil deil sign although tile the house that exploited it for the evening is under the strongest french influence IIo wever it was an independent action and and nothing to do with inspiration irom from paris the second american house that started the long skirt for the street acted in an independent manner this skirt was not taken up although it was constantly worn by the woman who designed it we are rather slow to catch on to a new fashion but when we do like it we overdo it therefore it Is likely that the long skirt will become an in accepted thing in mass before thanksgiving tills this prophecy may be wrong it Is no time to forecast anything in any quarter of life but the propaganda tor for thelong skirt Is sinking deeply into the hearts of women and spreading itself far over the continent mind you these skirts are arc not according to the lines that we have worn sometimes they are straight but often they are slightly draped upward at the back and there is a grov growing in tendency to make a skirt exceedingly narrow and sweeping the instep and then oien a draped tunic chich is a quick reminder of the pullback skirt of other days so you see the designers are kind to us after all they provide a new skirt and a new silhouette but they do not compel you to buy a new gown she nho has money and little leisure will purchase the new garment she will find it possible to arrange the new idea through the combination of an old frock draped into a tunic and a new skirt narrowly cut at the hem conservative women are delighted they abhor the short skirt which through our usual extravagance in overdoing things has resolved itself into scottish kilts facing the new season august Is a serette seren e or stormy month as you look at it you may determine to wear whatever clothes faded and shabby until the first frost demands lim fit broad s alk ik hercules braid Is used in conventional lines across the front of this skirt blue serge the sides are treated in an unusual manner they are slightly full from armholes arm holes to waist are held down by braid over the hips and then flare into plantings tings n R warm frock but it if you do this you tire are not making the best of things you will find that all about you women are extraordinarily keen about their appearance pe pei arance trance today those who were sloppy have become careful those who were shabby habby have become smart those who were unstylish have pulled themselves into thil the picture of the leour clothes have undergone the same rant formation as everything else in america economy li conomy and conservation lire the seynoia ct cf dressing but only the very indifferent or the overburdened and morbid woman is careless of her appearance the word morale has become the foundation stone ot of this war and women who are keenly hold on to it as to a life rope they roust must not lie be morbid and they must not be shabby optimism roust must shine from their laces faces and their cht clothes bes this Is a part of their burden and I 1 A C unusual cape in black and white satin it hangs loosely over the figure and is pulled upward in folds sarong fashion and fastens at the waistline with a loose girdle it is lined and piped with white satin and the unusual cape is also of white satin the deep cuffs are fastened wah jet links the mass of women have risen to it as women can be dere depended aided upon to do in any national emergency capes attract the popular fancy there Is small hope tor for u top coat these days its career vw mag abruptly ended hen capes became the fashion foresighted women Indu indulged led la in thea loose picturesque cape two years ago aga and clung to vie 0 theory that it wn was the comfortable and suitable sul table type of covering for a frock or a suit tha shops finally took up the theory and offered loose wraps at all prices frota 15 to there Is 19 no diminution in the fashion the economical woman finds that a fresh new covering can hide a faded or dusty gown and give one ona a feeling of self respect in public places the new capes are suitable sui tabla for cost coat suits as well ell as frocks and their fabrics run the gail gamut lut satin georgette crepe all the aleavy chinese silks striped anci plain taffeta broadcloth velour and chilton chiffon are chosen now the top coat has become a part of a costume and it even permits a cape to be worn over it it is rather fascinating as a redingote it resolves itself into this kind of garment but when it is of t repe de chine chi ne or extra x soft satin it Is I 1 slipped over a severely plain chemise frock of another color and forms a polon polonaise alse these new topcoats follow the path blazed by the jackets that belong to suits suit in that they do not fasten in front in fact they do not pretend to even meet in front they are broad enough to reach across the chest and waist but the fashionable trick Is to push the fronts back until they are almost under the arms in order that a I 1 broad expanse of the frock may inay show do not run over this item as an insignificant one it is a fadhil fashion on that tha was begun in paris five months ago when the first weather went lier broke into being and it has ruled since then in amelica we are just beg beginning lunin to take it up with any enthusiasm and by the time we have established it as a fashion our cold weather will make us ua bring the fronts of our coats together and fasten them snugly from collarbone to hips if I 1 one uses a jacket longor short cs as a redia redingote gote the need tor for fastening will not present itself tor for the cold weather will vill bring tn in the cape of cloth or fur with its huge collar and one may wear aily any kind of costume beneath it herein lies iles its value to the economist the Pom pelan black and nd white combination is ig brilliantly done in capes that are worn on the street us as well Is as to evening affairs the body of tho the cape Is of black satin and the decorations are of white satin the weather Is liot hot enough to permit these thin fabric capes to be worn during all t the lie waking hours they cover a multitude of bad details in a gown that could not do service it if exposed to the searching sunlight copyright 1918 by the mcclure newspaper syndicate |