Show at nov FW PTER passing through bad and calamusa Lal amusa ou on my journey A from to a country changed from nat flat plain to irregular humps and hillocks of mud I 1 passed mud towns and here and there accumulated stores of great mud colored logs near the I 1 railway all N ay river nver floated from the hill bill forests of kashmir then as in ili a world of crumbling fossil cities all the gray desiccated land was dust writes wiltes A t hugh fisher in the illustrated london news I 1 reached Pe a little before dawnann dawn daw nand band got out at the cantonment and not at the city station in the station masters loom a group of coated men with nith rifles crowded round a fire the city station had been beau raided only one week before and although tho the cantonment was safer than houses there was an invigorating air of excitement the wide tree trec bordered boi dered and well kept loads and the white cherry blossom in orchard and garden made me think of english pai pal kland in spring when I 1 entered the city through the E edwardes gate the kissa jahani the keshav peshawar Pe ar lombard street took me to the kotwall Kot wali a large whitewashed police station with its own wide gateway leading off at right angles into he be silk market and the older parts of df the city the wide open space between tho the kotwall andar and a raised alsed octagonal rest place a memorial to col E G hastings C B was a dazzling and crowded scene on oil long lines up and down one side myriad skeins of silk brought from and china hung out to dry in the su sun n and opposite to these wa was a row of money changers stalls each with its large pile of rupees and other coins coina really a mud cone covered 0 only on tho the outside with silver then at the back behind the silks on one side and the money stalls on A Z 11 4 r M 00 w 01 J M faz 1 ello AA alo V al 0 tl 4 t afi Q 7 ex A z 4 z ka ar F as VA a a ai i TORT fort IN kmim PASS the other were the lines of bazar shops with many strange wares from afghani tan and central asia like stranded dreadnoughts turning to the right at the hastings memorial the street leads presently to the famous gor khatri now used for municipal offices but for many years occupied by the romantic italian gen paolo Crese crescenzo enzo martino avitabile governor of pesha war under ranjit singh F from roin the top of this thin building I 1 could bee all over the flat roofed city and the surrounding country in the distance OL one side rose mount tartara and on the other a dip in lu tho the nearer hills marked the position of the fort of Jain Jam roud which mr spender has so aptly described as looking like a dreadnought guarding the entrance to 0 the khyber keyber pass pash pa sh after that I 1 found myself in the street ot of the hakima Ha Ila kims native doctors and stopped with nith rn mv compan to talk to one of the hakima sit ait ting on the raised floor in his shop with its rows of strange bottles and i drug jars to a question as to the fees he charged for advice and medicine the hakim answered A rupee it if I 1 yo to the patients house tut but it if the ick man mail come himself 10 the shop only the medicine do I 1 charge him tor for and the cost of that bould tie be five rupees that would surely be a great deal it if the sick man were a poor man I 1 said thinking tite ae quotation had probably been arranged ranged ir for any possible needs of my I 1 own it if the illness Is serious said my companion he will bo be able to oay ho will not nol A more modern type of native doctor was one trained at the medical school at lahore whom I 1 met at a Pe dispensary here lie ho saw an average of patie patient a day ayo and throat being the most freau frequent ent causes of trouble antiquated ilo notions of medical treatment bc however Never still find favor with many of these northern people and a young afridi boy was pointed out to me at the government high school who lie had just returned clied of lung disease by being wrapped in a freshly flayed clayed sheepskin for some hours city very ancient Pe Ss Is a very ancient city but has no monuments of antiquity within its precincts at a little distance honn however ever at the mount cal called ad ji ki iii cherl are the remains ol of the great buddhist memorial which was built in the reign of king kan dishka when Pe then called pura was inas the capital of his kingdom the remains of Kanish kaa kas building were discovered in 1909 by dr brainerd spooner of the indian archaeological survey and in an inner shrine of the building which must have had a diameter of feet was found a metal leai casket containing a crystal re reliquary in which were thre small fragments fra juen ts of the actual bones of buddha the khyber keyber at the time of my visit had not yet been reopened after a military expedition and when I 1 obtained permission to enter the pass the large sarai at was fill cd ad with kabulis with carnal camal caravans waiting to go through with the supplies of salt tea and hardware for which they had bad exchanged the silk fruits and carpets they had taken to war the wind blew strongly along the sweeping curve of the entrance to the pass and the hard well mado road wound in and in to tho the nar row lavine which runs between dign pree precipitous hitous sides at length I 1 reached the fort all in the midda midd 0 o of the pass it is of tawny yellow stone croN crowning NnIng a steeply sloping squat cone where the pass is at its narrowest A breakdown on the road through my ponies baying at a sick eick camel kept mo me in the pass till next mo coining ining and I 1 slept in a hospitable military camp which was pitched beside the road just below a village of caie ca e dwelling kuehl kuchi chels the wind the khyber keyber wind strained at every evers cord tearing and ripping everything that coulta bo be torn or ripped and howled and screamed loudly above the coughing of tho the camels in the morning the battlemented fort appealed in bright light against a drift of cloud beyond it towards landi kotal kota the silhouette bilhou ette of mountain was nas black purple with two growing patches of yellow where the sun got through the loose shale glistened and the low bushes looked silver gray along the little that spates in ili juno june when the snows melt although alexander tho the great entered the Pe plain through the pass tho the khyber keyber has ever been the key to the adjacent regions |