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Show Woman's World Smart Woman Plans Blouses To Wear with Her Fall Suits j Y"rT' C'N feel 14 in air already, al-ready, can't you? Feel what? Why, that sharpness and briskness that Indicate fall and winter are not too far distant in the future. Personally Per-sonally I like to call it "suit weather" weath-er" and suits mean many blouses. Every smart woman has -at least one suit these days that she can wear for shopping, for business, or just for going out. A suit can be dressy or tailored, and just what Impression it's going to give depends de-pends largely on the blouse. Before starting wardrobe plans, check over the blouses you now have and consider wearable. Some of the castofls might be made usable with new and perky cuffs or a smart neckline. Then you can fill In those spots that blouses you now have do not 'fill. Be sure to have a tailored blouse, a dressy one, and one sort of "in-between." You'll find a wealth of new materials mate-rials in the shops, provided you go early. Then, too, there's another source which possibly hasn't even occurred to you the attic or storage stor-age closet. Make Blouse Collar ' Fit Material, Suit Much has been said of the im-' im-' portance of selecting material to fit your pattern, but this no longer offers of-fers much of a problem. Your pattern pat-tern is a good guide to the mate-l mate-l Hal to be used. If you do a lot of sewing . your, fingers and eyes can i quickly decide the suitability of the fabric to the pattern. An important consideration, however, how-ever, la the selection of the collar. If the suit has its own collar, then you should have a blouse with a high neckline with no collar. Or, you may have a collar that is smaller but of the same type so as to match the suit A.collarless suit is just as much of a problem ,. . . for whatever ished In place with neat, small stitches. Most people learn the ins and outs of sewing very easily, but sleeve and armhole fitting may remain a mystery to them. I've compiled some tips I consider essential for making sleeves fit properly. There's real help in them for your particular particu-lar problem: 1. Lay the sleeve on the fabric carefully. If the sleeve shifts off the grain even a little, the finished sleeve will always twist and be uncomfortable. un-comfortable. 2. Pre-flt the sleeve pattern before be-fore cutting to make sure it is the correct size for your arms. Cut carefully after you have made the necessary adjustment 3. Never skimp on cutting the armhole, and make sure fabric is pinned securely to the pattern so there will be no slipping. 4. Fit the sleeve at the shoulder first and make sure the sleeve hangs straight down. 5. Check sleeve darts before sewing sew-ing to make sure they are in the place where your elbow goes through its actions. Baste darts in first, fit them to your arm, and then make the final permanent stitches. 6. Make the sleeves fit the curved shape of the armhole. Never snip off a piece or try to cut off a piece if the sleeve looks crooked. 7. If you use padding, place the pads in the shoulders before fitting the sleeves. 8. Never have a blouse fit too tight under the arms as this will limit arm activity. Baste first, wave the arms around and make sure that the sleeves and armhole are just right for you before the permanent stitches are made. you have an out-dated graduation dress. ... the blouse collar, it must not clash with the suit's lack of a collar. col-lar. You might choose a high-draped high-draped neckline blouse. Another Idea is to have a very high neckline neck-line with a dainty ruffle, or the classic pointed collar made in two parts such as is seen on many of the tailored women's blouses. The small double collar, usually round, is made by cutting the pattern pat-tern out twice. Sew around the outer edges of the material, attaching attach-ing the two pieces together, then clip so the collar can be turned easily. Be sure the seam thus created is pressed flat before turning turn-ing the collar so there will be no bulging. This is attached to the blouse by means of a very narrow peckband. Small Stitches Make Neat-Looking Blouse Collars shaped like the neckline usually lie fairly flat. Use the pattern pat-tern for shaping and attaching them. ' .. Ruffled collars should be gathered very carefully. Use a small stitch so they will gather daintily and apply ap-ply them with a band,' using small stitches so the collar is as neat as possible. ' Collars may be joined to the blouse with a bias strip of the same 1 Make a dressy blouse from iL material as the blouse; or, they may be joined with a neckband. In some cases, the collar needs neither of these, the part of the collar which is joined directly to the neckline neck-line being made somewhat longer. This is then folded under and fin- |