Show monte carlo carfo of 0 I 1 efte artent g street scene in macao prepared by national ahl society kaphing on D C service AC ILO which has lo 10 long 11 g been M MACAO one tie of 0 the gambling centers of the east now with modern improvements is earning the right to the sobriquet the monte carlo of the orient it is the only place in the world where fan tan houses opium factories and lotter lottery Y tickets finance a colonial government macao is but the tip end of the island of Heung shan also known as macao island all of the island except the tip belongs to china the portuguese area which includes two small adjacent islands embraces less than a dozen square miles but there are few places in the orient where a dozen square miles contain so much of interest it Is the oldest european settlement in the par far east arid and was tor for long the only haven of refuge for distressed mariners marinero ma in the china sea its modest lighthouse on fort gula guia was the first that ever flashed a beacon from the coast of the chinese empire and its little cemetery was for many year the only spot where a european might find an unmolested grave many wealthy chinese live here not merely because they find the climate more salubrious than that of kwang tune province but because their heads rest more securely on their shoulders here under the portuguese flag the praia grande Is a cool and restful avenue and leads appropriately to a plaza which Is the vestibule of the grotto and garden of campens Ca the plaza is to be seen at its best on sundays and holidays when the band from the portuguese garrison plays classical selections with the same ea seand seland perfection that endear the constabulary band to the fill panos on such occasions the plaza is adorned with the elite of macao with chinese and eurasian children of the cunning type and with dark eyed portuguese girls who flirt discreetly but nope none the less effectively with the young officers from the garrison scenes on the plaza this romantic plaza in macao serves the traveler like a page torn from a school geography here stalking grandly across the square one sees a swarthy oriental noncommissioned officer with his head draped in a striped turban and wonders what the hindu Is doing here some one explains that he belongs here that he belongs to the battalion sent here from goa the tiny portuguese colony in india then another apparition catches the eye the silhouette of a row of ivory ill black a ck soldiers topped off with red fezzes festooned festoon ed over the rail fence in front of the barracks plainly they aze ape not cot portuguese nor cor hindu nor chinese suddenly one of tile the dusky soldiers lays his head back and laughs lau laughs ils loudly and long the identification Is and complete there Is no mistaking that laugh it la Is the same that you yon hear on the levees of the ohio and the mississippi it was made in attica and these are native troops from a portuguese colony somewhere along the hot steaming coast of the dark continent to those who linie haie sojourned sojourn ed among among the frontier forces of the lie french 1 in the senegal of the british in sierra leone of the Liber fans at monrovia or of the sudanese on the upper nile kile the spectacle brings back old memories near kear the grotto of campens Is a hallowed garden one seldom visited save by the few who seek it it Is the little gods acre of the lie english chapel the lonely burial of the pioneers who died in the china sea in those early years when was no nappy happy valley at Hong hongtong kong where portugal and china meet but these details are not for or the speeding traveler ue he gleans tile the essential facts from a gu guidebook on en route his all comprehending compres c riding eye sweeps the lande landscape cape while the hong kong macao bout boat leisurely makes its ils vay hay up to the dock ft here the jin rekisha coolie Is waiting to whirl him filin around the circuit rind and back to tile the gangplank A stroll past the lie grotto of the poet a snapshot of the imps ing facade of ruined sao pa paulos a brief glance at a fan tan name game a two minute detour at the opium factory ten minutes at the fire craker works a whirlwind finish at tile harrier barrier late hate arid and macao has been seen at 1 t least leas on the average tourist scap schedule e the barrier gate designed like an arch of triumph and novi non wreathed by I 1 the branches of venerable tree trea makes an arresting silhouette ebe ear dally when you pause to consider tint that this Is the only place in the world where portugal Is bounded by china B the spot Is more historic than thes the average visitor realizes this little neck of the island Is the place where 1 in 1537 the western world secured its first foothold in the far east it Is true that magellan had landed la in the philippines earlier but it was Z nut until 1567 that legaspi established a permanent settlement at cebu in 1557 the unwelcome piM 7 invaders were officially given peral sion to remain in macao arid and la in 1573 1513 the chinese government built a ba bat rier wall across the neck of the island to fence them out six times a month the gate was opened to permit supplies to be imported by the isolated foreigners who held tenure by virtue of the payment of an annual rental tills this arrangement was abruptly terminated in 1849 when the gnesi governor general refused to pay rent reit any longer and ejected through the gate the chinese officials sent to collect it the present barrier gate was then erected to commemorate the event with a guard of portuguese soldiers soldier on one side of the gate and represent atiles of the chinese republic on the other the barrier gate reminds you of the neutral strip at gibraltar with britain and spain on guard at each end making firecrackers returning along the beautiful drive way you find it convenient to stop at the outskirts of the city arid and take it 1 few lessons in the craftsmanship of firecrackers the process of manufacture manu tao is so BO simple that even the two hour tourist way may learn to roll his ll 11 own first you make the tiny paper tubes tube and paste red paper around them it Is like the hie traditional method of making doughnuts first make the hole bole and then mold the dough around it it next nest you take a double handful ot of the little tubes stand them on end and tie a string around the handle bundte then you paste white paper firmly across the top and the bottom so that the openings of the tubes are covered with a crude instrument that looks like a nall nail punch you perforate the top paper rapidly to admit to esch each tube first a layer of clay then the powder and the fuse and another lay 1 er of clay finally you string together the required number wrap them in a net package affix afflic your fancy label and the work Is done the chinese have been ra malting dicing lire crackers after this fashion cormany for many centuries and have acquired amazing dexterity det erity pau fan tan Is another monument to the patience of the chinese people it Is 19 one form of gambling with which the western world Is not likely to become infected it is too slow for the occidental occide who knows many any of arching at the same results more speedily how fan tan Is played the paraphernalia of the game Is all downstairs but the aristocratic gambler prefers the second floor SIll the center of the large room robin Is a sort of light well surrounded by a railing over which a motley crowd Is always leaning since the gaming gaining table Is directly beneath every movement can cal be seen to advantage on oil the long table are ell charts arts bearing the numerals 1 2 3 and i 4 rod an the game I 1 Is s simplicity itself YOU to may bet on any one or rill all the bi numerals and you may wager mf you choose your w lowered to the table in a little basket and placed on the numeral you designate when the crucial moment has arrived the lie master of ceremonies who sits at tile the head of the table bouril out a gallon or two of cash the fa millar dinar chinese coins square holes in the center then with will 11 little rake he begins rapidly to draw the alum in in four tit lit a urine time the spectators on the mezzanine floor stop cr achInS water melon seeds lind and eagerly walt wait for the k last motion 0 of f the r rake ri it takes about the or ten minutes to reach the fateful termination and the issue de upon the number of caeli left for the last move if you have priced your bet or oil burn nurn her 3 rind and thero are three caia left ira you have won mice the alie amount of oi your our u wager less 10 per edit cent cons ion slon f if there lire are I 1 or 1 or 4 liisi as re malnin you lime haie |