Show W TEE ak nom the tha desert back to the he town to the world to the F FROM hurly burly of cairo and the fleshpots flesh pots of egypt it la Is wartime tile the sur summer rimer of 1515 the city is fujil nil of soldiers sunburned australians and new Ze Zon landers alanders who have not yet been in III action but fire are being kept lest tile arabs should conio conie out of the desert and strive to efface the english md alid french civilization of the banks of the lower nile and so add more cultis to the ruins of egypt writes stephen graham in country life the city Is majest leal with its brond broad streets Bt white stone palaces and stately nian its wondrous river and its mighty bridges the dryness cleanness clenn nesi find and whiteness of a city that knows no rains rain the city gleams in a vast supply ov of sun the wind blows nit all the time from the desert ind wafts afta heat in the face ns as from n furnace uri ince A city of life land and gay energy the fountain of life plays rapidly and brilliantly all the time throwing up all colors forms faces there Is a sense of resplendent lende ni and tremendous gaiety gayety no one cornea comes to cairo to bo be an ascetic and mortify the flesh but every building every sight and sound says life life life all around Is death bentli the desert which Is death itself the pyramids which are tombs the old cities find and ruins which are the bodies of oc ancient civilizations passed away awny but every sight old and sound in th the L OASIS of tile the great city say be gay let the tha pulse beat fast lot let the kunrt go and be glad lot let the eyes find and burn let the lips form words of passion and pleasure there Is a sense of an aft immense an which tit in contrast with the little second of the present I 1 moment makes the latter less important por tant less holy there to la a subtle smell in the air an odor tant makes the head n little dizzy and r 7 ri v 7 X Y w V r wm mim tha ahe hands a little feverish as you walk it te is the actual odor of antiquity it a finest dust in suspension in the wind the dust of decay from past ages all that tha t dies in egypt becomes becom es dry and only after centuries turns to dust and loses form that which jofs rot s away in a year in northern clime c me keeps its semblance for a thousand years in egypt the stones of the houses of native cairo were many of them quarried by the ancients the wooden beams and joists foists have lasted from the days daya of the pharaohs Phara and only now nor are gently crumbling here tho the very stones can be used to manure the fields subtly secretly the abe seventh foundation to Is always crumbling away and passing in dust into the desert air the smell in the air Is partly the fine dust of mummies of tho bodies that were once erect find and nervous and vivid gay and felicitous and moving coving the mysterious flocking humans of thousands of years ago crowds in the streets the Tho streets roll forward with flocking crowds dark faces brown faces sallow ballow facosi redcaps red caps find and straw hats and little turbans and smocks and kur negroes copts coats arabs women ln in white veils women wamda with dark yells tells europeans lers hawkers mendicants mendi cants postcard post card sellers newspaper vendors along the center odthe of the broad sun swept roadways crash the electric trams trains the rubber tired cabs ond nd wide hooded victor victorias lets follow pleasantly the motor cars proceed the military auto eyele cycles 9 pant and the heavy ax p x and buffalo carts of the natives blunder along atthe sides I 1 there is doing everywhere happen ng being voluminous and ros dus action floods ano and surges through the city with the it Is ufa life overy everywhere where and yet ivet ruing mingled led with K thera in ID de death fitti thre J R plague in cairo ande and every verv now and then the eyes rest on a native funeral groces slon one procession two processions professions process ions five processions professions process ions ten pr professions processions process ions a all following one another they are in overy every street and tiler they go post past wa with t b their strange pomp of death with taft body and the mourners and tho keen ers and professional howlers bowlers how lers the brightly living crowd on the foot footway ways each side of the road pause a moment and think someone lifts has died and pass on oblivious intent on life in luxurious hotels gentle and beau beautiful ti nubians are anre handing out delicate fare rich dishes cooked and served to in that sought out and magnificent style that egypt has inherited from ages agea of and ft a wonderful assembly of off officers leers find indies rich pleasure seekers and tourists from the janean shores invalids receiver receive sitting nt at flower deckel decked tables fables lu ID grea 0 halls A strange impression in the afternoon to go down the side streets and see the throngs of young men un steady dy on their feet but eyed and thirsty lipped greedy inger ager I 1 the fhe strong krong limbed colonial soldiers with arab girls the cafe chan tants shooting saloons bars bara bad houses the barrel organs organ the smell amell of the air when night colima night comes over the stately city and the europeans in their white clothes come in greater numbers into the streets the event remote staring moon stands over the broad highway and arched bridges heat seems to be generated through the haze in th the esky sky but a light dr Is ever blowing and the jun pungent gent sweetish odor of the city Is in the nostrils in the contrast of darkness arid and night silence the clangor of eastern tousle music Is more stir ring it stirs the body not the son soul and Is like the sensuous music of the masle of cornet flute harp sackbut psaltery and dulcimer dark women with gold ornaments hang out from windows or lurk just inside doorways and dark passageways eways ready to coll coil snakelike upon a prey in the roadways a shouting calling crowd in the erns they are singing tipperary and we wont go home till morning some men are standing on the tables others are trying to put gawky arab girls through the steps of a tango jango the music jangles angles the whole street has a collective voice a strange tinkling and murmuring uproar A tall lank loose jawed genial copt would show you yon the hauges of eyll evil and offers his services to procure you pleasure you have said no tt ti him he stands there where you left him anthe on the pavement in his long cotton rags smiling gently and c 0 gl ti iriv 0 ly the same type as stood in the city of the pharaohs Phara in the old days of the bondage it Is strange to reflect that thai they find in the mummies of those who ho lived so many thousands of years ago the marks of tile the cites di disease sense and the sign of the impure strain there la Is a community of sin wh what at was in ancient egypt Is in the world today and was not invented in any recent time but has been carried on from one oae human being to another to many others and froal them te tc others still |