Show T attl CT TT ft y anh herc la rl I 1 V A JL AJL J aali afuli v 3 J X fb th midwinter 0 our modist lc discontent a made glorious by the wealth of gowns which greet one on every ade here in paris columbines and flitz are crowded with gay and smartly dresch women most of whom are en route to and from the fashionable winter resorts these places even alone the sunny elviera Pl viera are not at their best climatically this year the cold there is a daw warmer than the kind the laa been i but to return to our shahn styles jalany persons who have never visited the parisian capital aadne the first aj ench models to he exaggerated and hideous productions whereas n reality bc most beautiful modes n the world are those display by the best french in this little word best lies all the difference between what if rd what Is not a cre aton take for instance the french stage and kemem ter what lovely toilets pre seen then these af pf necessity are a trifle exaggerated but are bil n taste really fe is not the easy thing for women some people like to make ua be aeve it to be that is for the smart eader et der of who s obliged to hold the mirror of style up to her particular jd A roan has no idea af pf he worry of dress and worry Is not too strang a ord ope must be absolutely correct in obies ideas af pf ahat to wear on every loh and this in itself s no easy matter although it Is the secret of a ws gowned woman we must be sweet and amiable and ready meet every emergency to be repa afternoon teas morning balks mor lides smal dinners and targe receptions in act for everything that comes along and ast but try no euans least we must select all uie coa tor aliese functions b ins ones pummer gowns when the ani v 1 on the ground but unless his I 1 ione fo get he most exclusive designs never cornea a second time th keynote of fashion now is and this effect Is best p he styles of WO with their dropping ines which are beautiful wh enwell put up and worn by tall of late our man bag changed we no epser consider it to wear ne particular material at one season of the year anly we wear nowadays what suits us de aiole lace embroidered pet and crape if t be our pleasure from january to dece mer the ames are past when vel vets and alark clothes were essential in imler the gown has changed some ahat this spring if Is less severe and cipro elaborate milady now has bo omine and jabobs jabots to wear with chis all round serviceable costume in she Is mighty apt to look aier Erett lest invisible stripes and checks tn self are favorite materials for tb ese which are built with 0 nine and even thirteen gored variety they draga enough to all are called short ohp coats are blouse affairs in emst instances elaborately trimmer jn A horizontal fashion most of the skirts ire made with a drop of the around fhe bottom 0 these drope the flare of the separate coats are 0 the r isto say loose with long shoulder I 1 or ami and shoulder cut practically in one these are n jace and embroidery the same etyle pt poat Is very effective in irish lace and is often lined or for wear with eaten and achton ch Ton I 1 have told you beffie that white aad cream shades as wel as pale tones wll i v 1 P be the rage for the riviera and th early spring and summer parisian rocks blue of the pastel tones will leavo a preat run of popularly larty A stunning model seen af pf this pastel shade had a plain rather ions skirt with a reminiscence of the bodice at the bottom of the skirt the pastel blue was relieved with a touch of black ana the addition of double capes upon the shoulders covered with innumerable rodys of the bodice at the was made with wide from shoulder to shoulder squarely over a black cherill led band the frant was charmingly arranged with che spots of black and white over a loose chemise tte af pf just visible beneath nie aue jn white cloth cowna a delightful harmony of tinted cords and lace inserted in he material in a conventional design makes a grateful change from the stitched skirt ath gathered hips in one one of gathers nearby all the skirts of goft abac are hung in this ivay the heavier materials have a shaped piece about ne hips from which fall kilts or flat plaits foulards Fou lards will also arm part of pur wardrobe this spring the smaller and daintier designs being crescents dots and tiny circles and inconspicuous earol patterns A foulard covered with a pak scroll fa with shirt and bodice decorated pale aln comet velvet in a diamond pattern with here and there medallions of another combination equally as attractive wag a frock constructed of chin blue silk having an arabesque design trimmed with filet lace and transparent tucked de sole As the days set warmer we will see a great deal of alpaca and serge these fabrics will be a relief after the albe lines and face claths cloths we have been wearing during the winter nothing is nicer for traveling than a gown of alpaca made in tha inevitable shirt waist style with possibly a collar of english embroidery by way of variety some of the linen gowns are works of art with tbell wealth ot lace and em PARISIAN SPRING COSTUMES broide ries many of he sheerest she erest kinds have fin under lining of chafton which by the way when of the washable sort will be much used for pummer dresses laces of all kinds atre employed on the linen creations althey are on everything in the sartorial world antique lace has come to the ore as the newest trimming for these deceptively costumes af pf laces you must have remarked that while this texture Is al most universally becoming eoma women are meant to wear bold patterned lapes and others only look well in the delicate designs of the net and spotty order it la quite worth ones while to study onea specialty in this ine as nothing Is wore durable and useful than a lace dress a black one when made with ions sleeves and a it will do duty beautifully both or evening and day ear reminds me 0 many fuoua gowns sees at restaurants in paris worn by women not familiar with continental customs avenins dress that Is the kind considered de rigueur for smart functions and of course are never worn jn a public dining room by the woman who knows the neck and arms of the socially elect are covered ostensibly tha veiling only ha concealing tha charms of arms and neck biere ja a greay fee ling or red not only or lea gowns but in day and evening dresses this la a passing fancy I 1 am quite sure as red Is such an energetic color to wear in summer except at the sea chere it Is always good in tone cardinal rd doeskin evening shoes are being made to wear with the red frocks such shoes made up with stitched bans are dainty and show the foot oft to advantage we have been accustomed to shoes covered with stitched bands but now they have been greatly improved upon instead of being carried across the foot they start in a point from ohp toe forming a ee rles pt chevrons che down the A charming example Is a white shoe with red bands and a pretty large sized buckle on the instep at the base of the nap where t mingles with lace it 3 tha shoe of the grande dame regarding evening dress which will blossom forth with renewed vigor after easter I 1 should say that chiffon li more popular than ever while oriental satin Is tremendously used some of the anost beautiful confections confect ions for evening wear are made in four or five different tones of one color A stunning frock for a brunette was fashioned of yellow chiffen ranging from pale primrose to flame color pal est shrimp pink to flaring coral is another daring combination vivid blues toned down by ceilings vei lings of white or mauve to my mind are daintier and more refined many of these chiffon frocks particularly it they are destined to be worn at balls are trimmed with chiffon roses of shades to match the costume A soft taffeta lends itself admirably to the new gathered skirts and when softened about the bodice with quantities of chiffon and lace is quite as be coming and more lasting than the perishable chiffon I 1 will tell you where there is a great change and that Is in the matter of headgear there as a perfect craze jn paris to bring n a very tiny oaie pine chip la the favorite fabric or these affairs although coarse straw will be used as well we are devoutly thankful to say that the ridiculous streamers and curtains which suggested flying machine s and all sorts of absurdities are disappearing it rumor speaks truly as to what is before us in the hat line our choice will lie between two extremes those ath the high jam pot crowns and the hat shape after the polly varden order A pretty model shows the tall crown encircled with two badda of black velvet clasped with a afee buckle it js raised aff the head on one side with a becoming curve and ornamented by a panache of ostrich feathers drooping toward the back rejane has been figuring in quite an ather kand of hat with a tri corpe effect bat instead of wearing it over the face sha places the trl corpe well on the back of he head allowing alj owing hair to show around the face gorgeous ornaments and buckles will be lavishly used on millinery also cords and cassels tassels tas sels A network of chenille over while tulle or chiffon Is a favorite combination trimmed with wing birds or caradia plumes many of the coarse makes of straw have tiny layers of flower petals in between of course we will not be wearing these airy confections confect ions for some aweeka 0 o come and the hat immediately before us Is the floral toque which regularly appears as a forerunner of sang and summer TALBOT |