| Show SMART SUMMER the correct clothes or coachman footman butler etc when serving in a country house establishment smart well fitting and wel pa on these are tho where is concerned it ig not so much the livery however that makes the man as the man the livery t him be trim and dapper not too tall and the groom slightly smaller and shorter than the coachman r livery for us i e country is of whipcord or tweed in brown or gray corduroy uita arc only suitable for stable grooms A pa groom that is the servant who a lady on horseback when she ades out wears short single breasted coat six buttons before and four behind a leather belt white buckskin or notte breeches and top boots undress livery calls for a cutaway with flap pockets or a jacket the latter being the more generally worn jacket is the name applied to a sack coat when worn by servant there is no rule that governs the length of either coat but there is a general formula that applies 1 all things livery smart and short alie summer coat is much shorter than the winter one trousers or breeches and legging may be worn with either cutaway or jacket but nd leggins arc away cither the square hat or a coaching hat ii worn shoes may be cither black or tan the gloves are craven tan tho collar and scarf as in dress livery are tho regulation coachmans coach mans livery collars come in four heights the rule is as high a collar as the length of neck peralta buttons which always play an important and expensive part in livery roust harmonize with the metal trimmings 0 the may be plain or mounted with crest or monogram buttons made from steel dies for the coat coat 12 per dozen for tho vest per dozen a steel die coat size costs 25 vest size 20 country suits for indoor servants butler and footman vary little from the town suit dr seward webb who goes for most elaborate li veries for bis servants has two distinct suits the one for town use is what is called a court dross the coat is black the waist dress for coachmen in the country coat or vest of yellow plush with black plush knee breeches white silk stockings and low shoes an extra touch ia given by the addition of a yellow cord around the collar and a yellow shoulder knot with banging cords alie butler wears his black dress suit on all occasions except in the morning and at informal luncheon the coattails coat tails are an inch or two shorter than those of a gent lemans aresi auit and there is a certain ge verity of art and finish to indicate the position of the wearer A sag liverios liveries Li veries tor indoor men servants best for coachmen leggins should have six bottona but tona and arc made of pig skin or box cloth the latter being the smarter and better than whipcord the proper overcoat to be worn with undress livery ia a short topcoat of covert cloth which may be either single or double breasted A hat of black or tan felt ia worn with a jacket with cut butlers undress suit ii of mixed material in plain sack cut the undress livery of the footman or second man is a jacket with waistcoat and trousers of the style in ubo for livery the buttons and trimmings harmonize with those on the coachmans coach mans livery because if no groom is kept the second man often acts aa groom accompanying tho coachman |
