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Show J s -. j MlARU FA5H-ION5 IN EiQUISITE H ' . W kMlksmK vN 1 N G gown s::mk pifii I 1 1--V"P:VFK-- .-$$1 ,j SgS07L anrf Restaurant Life Demands : - Ji v. '- r'-r-''-4f .&: ; lift.:-.. ... . -i ti . W'Avi,rfit&mm. . ' 'V':-IfVA--.?, At-k . j . if. r' a ;v -1 I " ' ' x V" " ; "- Africot Yoilc Gown with Gold f; K-S- V Embroidery Y SS'n . . ; '.;'V4 Int Corvrictit. 1910. hr Ttntllnrpr I ) JitvfcJ V" i4 V, ' ' "l 7icloive (Vinyriehf. I01i Xcw York: j Kose Brocade and Afousstline Gown" Y"rk: ',,, rmDan Thoto CofiTriffht. 1010. by rnllinsrr i & , -j 1' liii -r e; ! -. P'V' fc . ! i, . . ; v.- BY MRS. A. T. A.SHM0RE. HOTKL life hai chnti(rd coimi Jerri Jer-ri Hr of Into ypnrs. nml with the inuoi'iise iiuin.v slorieJ lioiols has coinc naturally q jtrcatcr rr-mil rr-mil lily, whith show su effect in a iniili inrrasor platiorntion of ' 3re.s B9 well ns a" Iik I; of the old siin- jilidty of the life i.f the hotrl coinlmililty It a nuly n few yr-:iri? iiko when, in even the ruot fnshionnble hoiel Ht a iinpnla r i watering pluee, n low rut evening gown made the ivearer consf.iruons, but to-lay '. repulatjon evening ilress Is worn n 1 1.. - Rether. 'J"here is a difference in rut. however, he-tween he-tween a ball gown, n dinner frock nrjJ the style of costume that ii in vogue for evi o-1 ing wear nt n hotel or restaurant Need-1 le to state there in a decidedly extensive j wnrdrobfl rcquirf-d io lhes days by the I woman who rnres to he even suitably, lot alne sniarlly, gowned for evening gayeiy. Nor is there the least uso in attempting to I get through the autumn with the evening gowns of the prerinm summer or spring. Sty leu have in every "way altered completely, com-pletely, and hotel and restaurant life is nowadays ho decided a feature of autumn existence that auy such economy is out of the Cjui&lion. Nowhers perhaps are the same number of evening gowns required us are neces-i-ary for even n phort sojourn nt a large hotel. There must be variety that Ijo one of the costumes shall become markcx. There must lt oue or more real 1 1 -mm Cream Colored Voile Gown with Gtnu-and Gtnu-and Pearl Embroideries rimto ronTricht. mm. hv rtutiin7T Exclusive CVnvricht. lftlO. New Vork HiT.ild CompoDj. Jwffi?- & A :VV v ' wj Gown of Shaded Rose Tulle ?Tf t' i A "MA Mieto Copvpsht 1010. t.y Henlliosr V W i;'' a I . . Exdusivo VnTirht l!ilf. New lo'V Cream Liberty Costurfg ft,' with Jet Embroidered td?- Tunic , Thr.to Copvrlehl. 1010. Iv UcuOlriTcr Fxrlusie f'nnvrJrhl. lfilO. New lork IlemlJ Cnmruwy. ' . - ' ' - '..".' ' '' ' ! i ' . '. ' . - . ; . . '- v ..-.-' . . i ' A;,---s,'a:vA7.t-.-.f;.t.f, iH ; . , ;irr nNu seen o:i fl.e lnoibh for t linv j 'of .-L-i..!er lisJI 1. ijiit no matter lio.v' li ii'liT the wimtiT only a gau.e or e- ' tn-liii ly .Mjfl i:nl pliable labrie can be Isliiirr.l iiin! g:it!iereil ainl still .imain !r-l !r-l oM-ng o the ligliVv?. The under die--. ' 1 lli'-t at all :isis li- perfnlly lillcl ie : n m 1 1 f r liiv iipiian uilv lni.se and care-b-ssly full the rhiiTnii ilr.-ss appears. Many a bx.se, s-.fily -iiapel gown forfeits; all its eh.uiu because siitlien nt care has, not been taken with the Iming. Imt all materials and ail slvl. s of dress lhe( favorite iming is ti iv an except ioii.i II v i soft, pliable satin. Cream or pale rose .obu- is lie- favorite 'on.- for a g n that,' i-i not of traiiNjiau i.t texture, but the ilelaalc pin!; lining is also l"ie.i:ciitl i:seil even with s.ieli colol'a as dark blue, or ma uve cliiP'oii. Soft and Thin Textures. Tin1 majority of ceu:iig gowns Ibis, nut. nun are of such ex trcii:cl soli and tl.il! texture that the uening of an uu-dfi-.kirt is obligatory I'or this nasoi: x ino-t of ii,.- in",ver gowns show an at- , ta. lo-.l .eitieoat or lin:i:g. rl"f. tly ,. straight an. I plain, and titling heftcf to v the ligure than any m pa rale skirt emiUI ! e inaile to do. e In ioiiiparis..ii with I In elaborate skirls v of the iiioiiieiit llie H..li.i are all some- a whal siin.ile in elVi-it, if not in detail, i: Often there will I but a wide belt or 1: half waisl i.f the same ma lerial ,as the b train in buck. l.r the tall and slender, or for one of petite build,' :i short, round, narrow skirt may be quaint or pi.-tui-(suc, but for all others the round rskirt which touches the lb.(.r is inlinilely bi tlcr. Whereas most street (osiiiiues give a distinctly straight up and down effect to the wearer, all evening gowns, mi the ontrary, emphasize round lines and i!;s-jcur.J i!;s-jcur.J the too stiiiight and severe. The i lclt is round ami the waist line is round. in contrast to the flat appearance lately much o be envied. The skirt is distinctly dis-tinctly round in every line, if this expression expres-sion is permissible. The trimming may be laid from waist to hem. but there is iahvny.1 a band or many bands of lace or ribbon or some other trimming to give the "IxdHter" picture. The plain, flut band "C a henvy texture placed some six to I ten inches up the w idth of a skirt h is I been to.rnueli use, to remain in vogue, but the snine effect is retained nevertheless neverthe-less by different means oT manipulating jtf fabric and its trimming. f Skirls ure nil very miuli trimmed ji s! at fin sent the st e ileru ni ls ii an I th". niti rials eiuployed make it possible. Ribbon :iud baijds of silk a LfbyS 1 1 in with I fa 11k and Hoimic.s of la.v are :'. used., but the i 1 :i iii. rather lull skirl, lied in; by a hand or bands of satin, is alre.nlj' out of dali'--:be fashion wan t-. i mitid' ; cjiied as n incthinl ..f transforming a cos-, i tume i.f ii former season into an up to dale j ! creation. T1k- i labor i!e mid rsl.irt witiij an oversl.'nt of plain lace net v JiifT. j i still seen. In t there is a return to th" 'trimmed skin ratler th.an lie veiled1 , virect s(, nluiormally iioiuilar iluring the! last season ChitTon. embroidered net. li.'ured crepe.; softest broiinle and the many two tolled1 ! silks are, nil in vogu.' fur I he i-iaiirant: gown. No stifT or unduly In avy tcNture: 'are cmpioyed. for lln-re Is . ei-sid.-i a b!c ! 'draping in tie iicwisl models ami no draped model is pra.'l na Ide in a the!; ..r unwieldy material. Shirring and gather ing of the matci iil admit the waist iin-l, Go'ia of Rose Crepe with -Tunique of Black,-Voile I'Uoto Copyriebt, 10M. by TlvotVorrr )xclusJe C-.pyrlstil. 1010, New oritl LliT.ild CoiDiniDF ball dresses for an occasional dance, and it is always aaf.-st to have at baud one gown somewhat simpler aud perhaps high ' .nt the throat bhonld the conventions of the community demand a less elaborate -os-tuuie for Snndiy rvcniog wear. Exaggerated Dutch Yoke. The faorito rut of the simple d.rVier dress for hotel or restaurant is an exug-gernti-d lutch yoke. A sipiare yoku is generally becornlng, while the I' shape is somewhat smarter, the A' in front miles cut quite low and fillnl in with chiffon chif-fon being Hcldom worn nowadays. A narrow nar-row U or xquare ilecollelegi. with a deep but narrow- V nt the back is sroort, and -indin-d the Ihdj? tdender V line ut the Lack is extremely pretty tu. matter what the exact cut of the decolletege in front. The chief difference, perliains, between the cut of a bull gown and o( a dinner dress is that the shoulder line of the latter lat-ter is home inclu-K wider than of I be conventional con-ventional evening dress. Even when the bodice is nit quite low nt the front nnd back tbe line will Mill be quite distinct between the two modes. Wl n It is iui-pos-sib!e to cut an oblong yoke deep enough in front to give a go-d line then ' the decolletege can always be tilled in with tlesli coloie.l 1 uTle, which can be used in combination with any shade and will make the gown more becoming The sleeves are jalf length or somewhat some-what shorter in the majority of reslau- kirt. while the upper part will be of i I'lite foreign te.ture. lace chiffon or. for Vimple. .viit in w ith a net skirt. The I houhler must be an tint us it i nn be j aade to appear, and the sleeve is never an ; nlirc piece by itself. Either it councils ,i nth the under pari of the bodice, forming; mandarin arm l.J , or c-e the shev cnrric.l up over the shoulder In Ihe col- ir band Here, again, the becoming luiist e carefully studied and the size of the' sleew.. and arm bole modified or increases -leeording to the in.il ldiial. At a restaurant dark colors prodotu male aiiwoig the women s gowns, iud ol I heiii all u is ibe black gowns which an I, almost invariably Miurlet. The black dress i-(.f coure relieved by n tom li ol 'color in the embroideries or iu the, girdle. I or else is largely cvlnbilied with white; '.but it is the black and white rather than I white wiili black whl.h i iu oguu. All 'blaik trimmed with jet mid rotly whim jliie just iieur the throat is Miiarl for jolder woineii. while the nj'te of cerise or ivid blue iu the embroidery or clulloii dipping keej it black gown su!U- Vcciitly yoiiihful for the youngest bride. II Dark Hues Predominate. '. IJoi.-l life calls for light c..l.,r in the i ccuiug and something more cffccl i c than an all black gown. Electric blue, some jfew shades of green, golden yellow ay id I the unusual tones of risj und pink i:re all seen, but it. is the darker hues which predominate, pre-dominate, iilthoiigh oi.e all w hite gow u is liiicludisl in every autumn cm t li t. A white gown, however, not lo be too youthful iu 'efTisrt requires How to be most elalairale. j almost overtriiumed. Siher embroidery relieves the tiui dull white, and perhaps n (note of clor may be introduced in tl girdle. White chiffon combined with .chilli is r.t once given i luiructcr, for example, ex-ample, by a wide girdle of flowered chiffon, chif-fon, ihe girdle forming, iu fact, half ltc bodice. The chiff .r silk belt shofl'd hho.V color or considerable depth of tone blue, i.urple and rose, with perhaps a line of black through the design. Artifieial flowers are used more tin;'' for some lime pa-t lo give a loiicli ' , finish to au evening gow n. cluster : j orebi.s at the felt or a n..n gay of gjr . jdenias or wnite ross greatly relieven t J - iioeiunit of au all black gown and i f eniiissible even in first inouruLiit. f For an all white gown the m-ccswry ! char.icior will be given by a Jeep l",t ro-e. a bunch of poppies or a cluster of , cet peas rasfne.1 at the Ml )"l 3' t lie niilur.il flowers would be worn. . ) f runt gowiLs. (1 ull length sleeves of trans-j parent in-i or chiffon are more or b-ss in fushiun at all times In n HUnplc evening J gown, but I In: style is never a really; popular one, because invariably unlit- : coming. The long sleeves seem (.pecislly il' suited to the present stjle of eveniug-dress eveniug-dress with Ihe skill escaping the ground 1 Although to be s.-cn iu some few models u is not likely lo be generally adopted fuT evening wear. i Not for many a day has there beeu so great likelihood of the short skirt capturing captur-ing the stronghold of jtopukir approval as Is the case al the present moment. Again aud aguiu has it been tried to foist the hurt (.Lirl evening gown under the guise of novelty, but always has it been defeated, de-feated, nud principully'by the disapproval of the American woman. So close is the short skirt victory that already a. train gown looks strangely out of dale almost awkward, in fact :and crcu the Most elaborate elab-orate g-.wu must show no real full of materia. ma-teria. l"or a restaurant or simple dinner gown the newest fashions dictate that Ihe texture shall escape the flcr by at least an inch, but the independent Vouiau who has the courage to discard the tin lieioiniag will allow of al least a two irn.l |