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Show fffArus fashions 4 .MJ f i ; ; Novel Designs in TWssorl 0 Voile de Sole and Hj Crepe ce CAhjI (. BY A. T. ASHMORE. FASCINATINGLY dainty and smart are the summer gowns now exhibited, exhib-ited, and material uikI coloring nlic seem hj mbolical of tlio wavm. It may ho the contrast of Die diaphanous diaphan-ous fabrics with the furs an heavy dark cloths of tho winter tLat makes nil summer materials o attractive oud so much Diorc in kecplog with the light sun-eblno sun-eblno and warm days. Never were there so many exquisitely fine light weight materials ns ore to he eccn this spring. Voile do soie, marquisette, marqui-sette, lace aud net of oil kinds and dc-scriptioDS dc-scriptioDS liue the counters of the dry Roods shop and gowns made of these materials ma-terials are in the Ipad at nil the openings at tho fashionable dressmakers'. 'I here ere plain and figured effects nod a marvellously mar-vellously wide ranee of colors, while ingenuity in-genuity and knowledge of how to combine com-bine tho colors it taxed to the utmost Xovel Designs in T fop f: m Voile de Sole aJM CrePedeCnJjW FASCINATINGLY dainty and smart g - ' . V"; . :;.Z;nrS5 ' V'--r;-l-? : V ..-en. symhohcal of U, mUoii. It g ' 'r- ' ' .' - i.V V V .. .i A ' v ' "' C ' . ' J. fy-. .V.' ruay he the contrast of the diaphan- ftlW2? ""W.. " '" ' ' ' j'lf ' ''' ' ' V'V ''" r-'V'1 -- . V 'V y V ' J ou fabrics with the fur. and heavy ' '"' '''Y'-.S ' -Z ' ' - . ' ' 5-' i .V "' I.V. dark clotbg of the winter tLat iDak- nil ' ' .' ' '-fc&'U': ''Qi V ' " 'V 'vW"' ' - ' ' ' ' summer materials ko attractive and ,0 iMf ' ' ''f" 7' ; ; . . " S-' r-ff V. ? rrYTv'" " ' '' ' ' .v--f ' nrncb D.orc in keeping with the light sun- 3 - . - VT : i' ;,vV ' V,; '"5 V-V).. Vp I'.A" PskfiV ' ( '. .' ' . U -- ' ( ' .b.no and warm days. (JC7 . -J ! V,' . J i. : V'-S' V'"" ' ' V ' Nevcr were there so many exquisitely wv,V5 ' . ' . ' ' S't jK's- w' y'Xi T;--' V N-17 ' l.T ' i) I ! ' fin. lixht wcl.bt materials ns ore ,0 ho W ' " " ' ' .Rfe seen thl Prig. Voile do soie. mamui- yP :-;V.y1s' : V''IJ Back of Blue and White Voile dTV ";,.vt " ?': J sefte, lace and net of oil kind, and de- VmMW , 3 Ji- VV,; v P Soie Cowt, Over White Lining fi 'rl '" ecriptioDS liue the counters of the dry f Jf? ?T 'f V'v 4- ' Mouou llouS r.fv i. . , roods t-hopn and cowns made of tlii-c nm- ZZ ffi . ' Vv 'v?,'1-V'SX-tVf ' '.:?', j rbow Oopyrtgbt by Rathnct R f." v'-'' 1 P. terials are ,he lo,d a, all the opon.n g g " 7 Kxc.u,lv CoPyribt New York lUrald l - g at tho fashionable dressmakers'. 'I here JC, .'. .' :. t'. .' . -J;-';". -'sj 9 Y y --'-i' V' ti, oro plain and ligureJ effects nod n mar- & ' ' ' f . V ', ''V,:-'.- 'u ;!';':,VV.; Jj'Hl- ;'ff:-v'AA rJ y 'f . ' ' K ' - Tvllously wide ranee of colors, while in- f ' " ? ; ; ' "w"- f 'i :'7v ' V 7 rf, ' ''" ' k': P-l ' " ' fj tenuity and knowledge of how to com- g (fi " ' ' ' . .S 'K'. V.' Si'' ''V i'ff'f lf?' ' ' . ' bine tho colors used to the utmost V . . . - : 'r '-i ' V. Wi Vv; 'J.'r r'' r 'V ' " ' A''-..-.v V:''''''p.:,; ' :. V 'i'.v'il; t & : -I'Cy-'.''.-: V-:';-i'-:-"-V I v-' (l . -.r:; 1 f i - J U'.: '.''::'-.-o-f'';-"- U mo.Mt dilllcult to carry out. and the Vi-S -'"f t' '' V.-'TA..H fc 'S'y'vV '' t.'1 if . ' " , Vv'v ' " '..t f ' C- ?y.t:'? i)A lrisi nskc-.J for siiiipUcity in drc-t r 'ai f;-": ' W'-liy M ptf rl.. jMi i- :;fi?-fi;flM iKsr!?.;:ii,,,w3r fyf 11,0 Rrcat " Ar5V. .' ' V '1 V Vk' ' ' J. '' ! Tl, o,n ,,o,.k ha, Ral t be .15,- " 7 .,! f:" ' ' ' !;'v.V-'';- ' .VV v V-'' , :-f ? ,V! .V; '" v w-'li ' Undoubtedly the fashion of the . , I'. 'tel5it fM hSft ' i';. '"'V:!'' r:&'j& Z.rtf Z V ; v : - - - EVV;.' ok: i V '- ?J'""ir' ';' '-'f--:'- .-.VlVa :ron' or open nerk is to bo reckoned ' 'h 'Vv I ' I-1 rA v-;'---A.,-tr--'- ;M 'v -V-f;''V;--v:.v.'. vtf.-?. J - . .'Ml i-v- tf V'C J ;rfV';i;'-,;;-rH';iv;v.i ,lineu or pleated lac collar con-idorcd fej t'.VV PT- W ; i-VvvV-; -.fSV " r.'P'- -V"-'i'.V .i' i-VV:!' t:"C.:r':-: : ;"-art at tb moment; but th Uoo be--V . . ly-. ' ,' 'M"v-' -r-V v'v,f;-V' C-'- ' ' ,t.l-,)'vO..;:? -Vi.V-r' I-' .f-f-.:"-. Tv !wn n -.mart, t-ffeclive, low cut neck and SH':;r "-v'V- j'p;' I I Jk f '"V : ytW . ,VJ'. SKV. vi 4 ..vCv'? ; v- ! vlffar one U ,o very -arrow that eon- '' h'i .V i.'' W V VF; I r;X; -'i;;-V,..v';:: r?' 7 f'';;;-'';NvJ-rl ' -,' SS' ''" 'l'.- C - V'1 P'' t r:&? yr-"l.:?'l:r.:-'-- -K'' -. .wrvativc ple continue to Tote acainst .V fc I : ' ' l PW:.: ' ,r;. - "1' -l ve the di0lcly b, the -ilvjf;? VVi -V. l ll ) I ' J. WtJiJuiLlJu jf,V';. tj-r ',v ; ; t (transparent n-t or lace guiiup with high ;' fw.tf V tf'V ' I I ' I StyftKjS ,- ' , V 'J-fct 'i' 'CJA'l'i'hiZ "?;-.''iC-y.! i:.'''t ?K'r.r?- '' 'i '''A-:-r '-f . stitvh collar. Thi is a universally becom- ? r'iV- i iLUi-0ev 1 1 .: li r4L MP'fuillm ) Embroidered Ecru Tussor Gown ilfrXt V' :l?i'X.V:,:''v ''''--'.' :- V;"A;vv.V'i:':T",.' 'in? Mylc ind does not interfere with tho ' U'fihJ N" ' v'!7' fi f!.' -i1?WW'-- i W-llW .Maiioii Rou K'rK-'-lh WV'f .-5 r? v.Sv: '' jueck of the pown heins cut quite low. f-iV-A lliTOiSi ) rhotoCopyrUh.bylt,.,,,., 'RJ WV 4 A V--: ' VyJ a-'rV-''' . v. I All kind of pongee aud tuRW sown. ' (v; f.;J t-: , . '.;'" -iVFv VvWA Exclusive Copy right New York Hcwl.l 1 ,')' I'11 '' ''''' V V-'- lv' v V'-' ' '"V 'V jare extremely wuart this wasoa and aro ' ' '-A7 ''' '' ' t;!"''' AAwy?- pi KjJVS,'.-l'J Y.r'.r S,' 7 '-vf '.:'.:'' I nude iu oli colors and all shades of col A-i.rV '" ' yli, f'jj 'JrpP . A - i.y.'Vyj.''? ;r ':VJth.''' fT,-;J; if .7.V.',:'-7 inn. it way truthfully be said. For ft ' . i jt - ' ' f' ' ' '7 ' TL A V ' v '.V' -, V-" ,coat and skirt cos turn there iw nothing i I S-'-' : ' 'i " ' ' CrkA" Mlfl 10M )s I : V' -v7 L'ti'-:-'?--Vy'-iV ,'V:- i- " jmorc practical, and the simplest of waists I "'''" M V"1' yx-, i coats has ben reduced to a minimum, aod. made In materials like tussor and pongee; : - I v.-'- :) 'f: '.'' " of net. lace, chiffon or lingerie are worn A f 'S ,,'.' vf ' . r' 1 1 Sy(Lff Ai7 lrul11' as 'cw uodewrmcnts as ks- tho thinner foulard arc clawed with Uie L. sj "til Vr'J . r. .A V-"V.V'- y with them. Then there are tho cntiro J i: J. 1 jf'l'i' '.''.''.'.' V:'i?:"' If If ;1'&h J aiWe are worn, but all the thin trans- vode, but the hea icr can be mnde in ul- F r .jj;. ; '. .. y'.-s. j' '"'.V;'.'' '."'-.- -''i'K kowils with cemt to match, high waisted, L Li t'Jt : '.' !-,?" j f u f) , lzvi? parent gowns boast not one but two mo.st any style. The return of the kitnvDO A , ' i"'!,''''' ,''y ,v:':, VV-''''-:'; ' and on the Empire order, but for practical L 'I and ..ometim.. ihree Huin.:.. The toun- "Iccto ia one of the marked fityh-s of the ViX purposes the skirt and beparate waiat tw'Ji j ' y ' ; it ' V'S,,X 7& vJ -r V )s . , . . season, but it is imt the same kimono uc r,;V: ,;.' u V-A-v : , l'1 ' with coat to match are far moro Batisfac- f:'f ;y-:-S : ; H KA 'X- Jation is of .lk or Uln. whh-h Is veiled in of oIJ iu WOme respects it i even more ; Irgi.A V ifyK J .lory. All shade, of red. blue, green and f "J r " ''. " . V T' t! j " ontratiDi: color of linest voile de sole, uncomfortable, aud it in quite impossible VivV ',.-v '.SV i"' purple, especially the darkest shades of '' ' ' 'r' W j and over this is romctimes another veilim; many of the newest mode-Is to raise tAj.vA "y.VtyVPeach Color Voile de Soie GoA'ii, purple, are moat popular, and every con- ''j ';.".vV' 4 1 i?. ' . ?4 '!(! I and then comes the material of the gowu tho arms to the head, but then exercise ti '"' J' '"''Jjr with Pearl and Gold Em- ceivatdc quality is to be aeen. Hut it also Lv, -jf ' .r " if-' -2Aj Vi; itnlf. Indescnhably charming are the haa eldently not been in tho mind of i'.nLjr . . . w i to be noted that it is not fashionable 'jj'mult-lL'tX' -' 1.1 effects (.Mined by the use of the different artists who have designed the clothes t-itL? Droidered Waist (0 1)av0 tf,0 hhort oncd beln voilinKs us.-d In thin manner. A found. i- of this year, for many of tho most fash- Tlinto ropyrisht by R.-nillnjor 4iou i.oua cLoaeu iu preference crcry time. Apncot Crepe de Chine, with f fw M, 1 3 1 ?'X V T "kT..0 " 'rk ,I'"M Correct Len?th of Coats. ' f u r l a"J th,n a Dl,,? Pivf a myi-M nous effect perniit of taking a long step, while the ... - Oold tmbroidrry. ,.r ftn,i i,.u;i.i tr r.,,. ;n hrt.n.l stiff i.aml of m.t.-ri,.! tht Coats Jmt long cuough to reach helow is most difficult to carry out, and the prices asked for simplicity in dre-s ar generally prohibitory for tho Rrcat ma-! ma-! jority of women. The open ne k has again to be dis- cussed. Undoubtedly the fashion of the ; round or open neck is to bo reckoned ,'wirh and tho Cni.xh of the embroidered ,lineu or pleated lace collar is considered smart at the moment; but tho lioo be-;teeu be-;teeu a smart, effective, low cut neck and la vulgar one l so very narrow that con-I con-I Mcrv.-ttivc people continue to vote against ithe style and solve Ihe difliculty by the (transparent net or lace suimpe with high i stitch collar. This is a universally becoming becom-ing .style and does not interfere with tho neck of the pown being cut quite low. All kiuds of pongee and tus.-sor powns a re estrernely wiart this season and are. ' nude iu nli colors and all shades of col jors. it may truthfully be said. For ft ,coat and skirt costume there iw nothing i more practical, and tho simplest of waists (if net, lace, chiffon or liucerie are worn with them. Then there are tho cntiro kowils with coat to match, high wahsted, and on the Empire order, but for practical purposes the skirt and separate waiat with coat to match are far moro satisfactory. satisfac-tory. All bhades of red, blue, green and purple, especially the darkest shades of purplo. are most popular, and every con-leoivahle con-leoivahle quality is to be seen. Hut it also is to be noted that it is not fashionable to havo long skirts, tho hhort oncd being 'chosen iu preference crcry time. ! Correct Length of Coats. j Coats just long cuough to reach helow the hipH nre the smartest, and ns a rule arc painfully shapeless, with straight. fwU hacks, the fulucss belted in across tho back. The fronts are almost straight and loose Such is the cleverness of tho fashionable fash-ionable designer of the day, however, that ; . coats has been reduced to a minimum, and, iu truth, as few undergarments as ks-sihle ks-sihle nre worn, but all the thin transparent trans-parent gowns boast not one but two and sometime three liuincs. The foundation foun-dation is of silk or satin. wbi h Is veiled in a contrasting color of linest voile de sole, and over this is sometimes another veiling and then comes the material of the gown itht-lf. Indescribably charming are tho effects (;.iined by the use of the different veiling us-d In this manner. A foundation founda-tion creen lining over which is a purple and then a blue plves a myt-ti riou. effect of depth and color impossible lo find in any one material. For the shepherd pluid voile de sole the lining is either while or the color of the chirker check. In the soft, thin fabrics quite different! models nro fashionably from those to be made In materials like tussor ond pongee; tho thinner foulards are clashed with the rode, but the heinier can be mnde In almost al-most any style. The return of the kimono sleeo is one of the marked styles of the season, but it is not the same kimono us of old. Iu some respects it is even more uncomfortable, and it is quite impossible in many of the newest models to raise tho arms to the head, but then exercise has ehlently uot been in tho minds of (he artists who have designed the clothes of this year, for many of tho most fashionable fash-ionable skirls nre quite too narrow to permit of taking a long step, while the broad stiff band of material that binds the Kkirt just uhovo the ankle was surely never designed for any woman who wia fond of wu Iking. Itccomiug, intensely ho, are the waists with sh-cves and folds across the. shouldem ull in one piece, and Apncot Crepe de Chine, with Cold Embroidery. Thoto Copyright by TU-otlin;r Exrhitlv C'opyriiht Nfw York IUrsIil the transparent and soft fabrics can bo d raped to perfection in carrying out the design. For the moment the fithion Ik universally popular, hut its very popu-lurity popu-lurity fchould Lo considered carefully hi choosing ihe summer outfit, as there is I always duuger when any style is so unanimously chosen of its losing its smart distinction. However, it is u stylo i that in spile of its apparent simplicity' Th question of the lining is all important im-portant this toason. The number of polti- to oolvc the nio6t extraordinary cfficts-"Scaicely cfficts-"Scaicely practical" Is the tirbt crillcibUi acalb.st the sheer materials loo fine and too soft but like tha gowns of old time fiction, so fine that they could be passed through a weddirig ring, these gowns often wear far belter than those of heavier and apparently i ronger fibre. In truth, the amount of wear that can be friven without apparently ony effect Is most surprising, sur-prising, ofttimes far more than to n foulard or t-atin. Shepherd Plaids Popular. Checks, foe tb,p'nerd plaid checks In Mark and white, gray aod white, ony and every color nod whlto are dellelously cool in appearance and aro most fashionable. SometUoes black satin Is used to trim thriii, but not too much of any such contrast. con-trast. Laces and embroideries nro fashionable fash-ionable trimmings for the figured voile de soie. but are not used too lavishly and nre alwayx. as it were, subordinated to thi rest of the gown. A band around tho skirt is of plain color, lace or cm-bicidery. cm-bicidery. and a touch of the earao Is in the bru.id belt and on Ihe sleeves, but every effort Is made to keep the light, cool appearance. This do not apply in every rase, for there are one or two models on which a lot of black is to be noticed a broad girdle or band around the skirt, and two loi;g ansh end of black velvet or satin. Hut this may be taken ii mi example unit the exception proves the rule, for the majority of the nuiart r.iuuk are all in the one lone of coloring. iIiot.ii coats, or rattier jackets, tun ami 1 oose as Ihey arc, do not mako tbo figure ' seem large, but on the contrary, alight, Skirts aro decidedly novel. All willi : straight lines, narrow aud, it must, alaul ' be admitted, ungraceful, these skirts have only the ek-meut of being quile different i from any former styles to recommend . ; ihc-ui, but they an? new. The pleated bkitt i is far' prettier, and i aUo fashionable, but Hack ibe smart if somewhat conspicuous appeareuco of tho others. Floated bkirls, tho now styles, differ materially from thooo of two years ago; olu-u llieic U the oveikut effect of a double set of pleats, one falling Just u liille over ihe lop oi the other. M though there were two flounces. This, with the waist in tin samo sixe pleats and a patent leather belt, is a favorite lor a foulard, nut is uIm. good in tusor or .ngee. It gies quite ihe effect of a blouse coat and is, iu liulh. more eoioiortsblo for ku miner, wlu-u every addilioual yard of material is l lv dreaded. There Is really not enonrl- attention pai.1 to the . radical In clothes iuteiiJeJ for summer wear, A model that iu itself is charming, effective and graceful will require lo bo lined or made (n ucb a manner man-ner that it will bo quite too warm. (or couifort except In cold weather and jet it will bo most casually rrdered. For-lucately, For-lucately, of late dressmakers and designers design-ers havo studied the nibject of comfort much more than In yrars gone by oud tho heuvy lini'iR onco conslderoJ essential essen-tial ore banished, .ind If there is a separate sepa-rate boned and fitted lining, "it ml to perfection, per-fection, the unliucd, or at most chiffon lined, waist Is made n for the heated term. |