OCR Text |
Show TiJI)YING ie ART LEATHEPx, ij xrx -DECORATION feT. KfrUWING ART p- LEATHEFv,r Fk A j 'DECORATION p X- -'l W ' '-' V ,lJr"-''ft;- Sarccn Design Own Design Z 'T' ' . ... 'SpS . ': . I-.-' ' '. ' fej ltf&R 1. i . - . fetf i . 7 The Leather Handicraftcr '.,; I ' '' CL SINCE ihe fashion un ben -el Santa P.arbura. Ca) where ihe Min.n Takes This Position, Wltll r TJ-i j frfe'l ffi .--fffffij VT, jg. y ? J . j f'K ' " nwrt.l.or of girls of royal loolod leather is si-n in such perfection, Tools at ClOSC RangC . ' li'il ' ' "t JyJJ English families for knthor deco- yet it was away hack in Spain that meu . . ... y-'- w-r-'i;-., ; - "-"-T-'vMCt ; yU.- - '', ,' ' wl,a of n Ww turn. P.aoOek.r -n,h -n.uries that l.a.l.or Work r, ' r ' ' L'rnu Look d MM;l, over. lirnn pillows Wmn,o known. a,,i it .hen cnstitut-O ' and BaS Hand WfOUght and thr l,ke :ro Mlill a populnr as cvr-r. '- of the fhirf in.lnslrtcK in Cor...va. ''Nv' -CatDCS the fr.rn.er .,r.iehrly so. Mne, .hi. re,l,,a and Sevill,. It was , j HUt.m.rr m-nrly every one is contemplflt-! "' "?' P"" thai any man entfrinB i ' viX'V.' Oj'v-ii 1 "ry. hut n kit of tuvlvo supply all 'Scvillian worker. Ilowtver, lierc in ww iiiC a pilRi-iroau'e lo Ohernromercnu. profeion- wn lirt oJ.ligerl to t.iis.4 ! ' j-; i'if: p'Vrsih$& , H'-tt ro require.!, linn, the .1. sign is that has I n haii.l.-l 1.. n frora cen..ra- the now rhnlekiine haes with haiol aM eai,.in.iti..n as to his ahi!,ir hefore viiTO ''v''-" "r" ",;"':ir'l trN ar- use! lion of l..lh, r worker and comimreB n wr..i,cht nt'tol monniincs have quite '" "'M ce a lironse to work. Xovi.es. , tS-r -!' riAV. SH'i v' Wi'&''.Vi ; to pro e.v,r..si..i, an, I n .ris. effeet t.o fa vent My with the old time rrr,pP ns onv- takti tl.e youtl.fi.1 fnnev and some per- '" Ur' w?r- "-e-iuired to have a three : ' "" rk. though then- is I war, (he thini; eonld ,... I jtot it from a Dan-, feetly Hlonninc noveliies are heinK made. -V''1V apprenti.esb.p l.rfore I hey could ' 'Un'r of atinn a hard expression. ho in tun. h arn.-d the combination Mass of all sorls are to ho worn on ''ter I lie fiehl. :' J'f.vW J-A 'i1" TC'"M'iV;.' '-''VfT5 v OnJ '''.W fi li'-Kl l-,"r "'ix reason ninny leather workers from his father nn.l iraodfather befor II,. h. lt this season, not onlv tlmsc In , ro,n SpHin 1hc art "vr, J'1 ,0 tvly- ' -O' .H .l 'vn ; .' T-I- fl- AiriK ?': l-refer i-vt to ' in tl.t .rl in relief on hit". It Rives the wme wonderful sheen Elizabethan desicn hut the new black "'7" l'Tn" a"'1 ,hc, herlandR, fV?:;5.1f?. 'he under side with eompo.i.i.u, wax. Keen in Ho- fine old Cordovan leather, xelm chatelaines with silver and KU "''tl-o arts and ,r.f(s have found fe tifM Zf.M'&ii !(Mlife j'p ij 1 ls ,',"- H tends to take When In id on over gold or silver leaf tho mounting &nd the less complex Mtede U'U -'"vny. Sweden and ; f; , r." - l; i" -.:&US j;-'! V" ' '? fe'VAwH'-.'i aWnj' ' nWt f'f work. Meet is ...rprielnply bcnntifnl Take two leather ,aK clo.elv rese,t.liK some of !0 J " Tr "V T H fe ;fkS ",f M '- if "P Ihc Parts of linseed oil lo on, part of n-sin the Indian handiwork. Taken ,e nl- ' h tirM I i. ' WP M. - ' ,--fe, ' V'" 'l' f,f '" ' -rked into the n.l a half par, of .aloes and boll it all together, however, none can ,rp. those Ju"Z?ZTi Zw n , Hr ..M ' PS ' with tool. I Vequently together until it becomes the color of Cold. of tooled. ,nodeed or illumina.ed leather " " r LI T , jUv ' "'P P Is -rercl with 1" result it is mapenl. un.l I am very inlhepontofrarityaudintHnsielH-auly. w M usetmf 71"'"" l'feS? lJ 'V -: 'W? Wm'' . " " " " Mt f Perhar- one of the most evonis.te jtwt 1 , u ' M u.seuin, , 1 arts. H's- AV f . t UtifyX) ,,"" ' trans,,,, n-nt yellow varnish who arc .levotee.s of this splendid crnft." n,' . one Wh0",hpy "rC 00 Con"- ,h- re.fMri - PP-1. whicl, ,ives that marvel. There have been rany clever worker. f-n.sh.. Ms.knecna .lol.ente ,utT. smooth 8UnlK.r t1(.y eo exauune the nuthod f W - Rohl-n Sllot and richness of color which in leather in .hi country. Hv.lvn Nord- fmished ICher and mounted ,n er, UDll Rlylc anJ ,et ,,1ints Ul (o . . fe-, .: iscmiuon in , hi Cordovan ho e,f..b.isbed tbe b.K.kbiudery bv which ,s so treated as to P.ve , ha. rreen- Imml.ler efforts J 4 WM'fM 'V'V ' : Stiver leaf is onetimes su.,tin,t o ht U, r ,,,. wu. one of the first to U .n,e .ndM.t.ve of nRe such a, M , n ,n ,he early da most of tbe leather ' p ,o!d. and the effeet is ,tlil Il9 brii;1 J men, in the ar, of ..okbindin, in ronnec- I.. the annent meln due t o.off the derorntion was pnmted and related to . fc vl ARai. if ,be desire be o have a tinted tion with leather work in this country and 7'7 "f Io,nr. r, ,,an m,, "-' T-d- leather, the , color ,l,i,,e.l will, - ciu,l considerable renown not only by of the nncent hpyp Uans. wh.le romc very handsome greens and ; Y'&fe prntine is -.ppliod and the van.i.h is Jail reason of the originality of a woman rn- In th.s parneular ntn.-e the copper chair, are covered with the illum,nn,.,J over that. Kain, in sue., an occupation but because blends admirably w . 1, the des,, part y decor,Hve leather, yet it is ,inly in tbe J "Many combinations can be worked out of l-r intensely clever work, pjrojrriphie and which, by the way. i roller articles of howrfeuold decoration l-:''T'v in this way. ami pyroempby is pleasin.lv ' Miss KliZal,.,b and Mi Edith Nixon most ungual smec ,t was copied from t ,nt womeu are now vitally interested ff&id$ ' applied in connection with the Rold. as in were the pi,ueers of Srn Francis, and the coverlet fonn. In the coD.n of the However, ,f one desire, to Ro further there -yM ' 'he case of tl.e Saraeei, dcisn on the baS. I M. Anna lenis Kipley and her ai.ter ,,atron M.nt of Denmark, which waa are alway, the examples of the line old In the early -lay, th. same cf,e,t was ob.were amonp she first to tr-k up tbe work woven by the Sara-en weaver, of the Cordovan leather as an incentive to nioro l&yZ&l&& ' tait.ed bv .1,.- u,e of wo.hI blocks, the idea here in New York. Mrs. Charlotte Jtuck eleventh ecntury and wb.eh is now ,n the ambitious effort. beinK the tn,e ns will, bl-nk pr,ntinC. ther woman v.hose name is in.ep- Koyal Museum -in l.openhagen - Iliumi- An expert in band made jewelry and ' , k.iV and n entire wall ,verinff was overla.d!hly .s.iiaeeted with the history of the mtted in ff.d.l with l!.e de,iKn worked out metal work, hand weavlnK n well as the W&'V? with a d-sisn prinl.-d bv tl.e f.id ofl-'f ..rk in the Fust In fact, th-r in brown and jrreen to match the in.lal, leather decorutius and many more of the 4 ,V -t, ?s VW k '-X-i- '& ' t' vi ;4 ' -f'ssSJS r.-: ; '? lA? t : J ,..,,., ,,, Wirh thi- ,,. l ,i,.ire to-day iu New ork many women i, is m.t intricate, and include nu.nero,,. arts and crafts, declares ,hat to make the ftr?&f$K " , ' . i?,,0",t """" ,,hc "V0' . . . , , . . , . , , , . . ' "i'I- H"ltl tr-'' for their nekieveuiruts iu tins line and mot, Is common to tl.e ancient foes of chatelaine bos,, or indeed, any ol the $ ''Much of I lie beauty of the old Spanish "ho have turned out pl-nty of original Ihc early Christian-. Quile ,.u,i.,us is other article, modelled in leather, is not lea. her resulted from the sort of varnish Mio -utbeient to i.,.lieat thc.pot- ,1,., .,ylo in which this l.aB ia moun.ed. dithc.lt to do. ' ' . Cfet ' ,!, which was supposed to be u tAvZ- "uT'w m aTlhinklnK since it is coneave instead of convex, as "I , the contrary." .he. et.cour- -k&fc&&$! which was km.wn only ., icient of licoming Valhert.njlcrXr! K ii, o lly is the caw; but this difference is azuiKly, "it is quite simple, but like all . V- 'jl.'"-': ,c"-v-. ' - V i'vT-?''- '" i i""-' 5! ' - of immense value when the bap is opened, the arts and cnifts the work requires ac- ; -fA''l.?; : n.s it fives freer acres to tbe content,. curacy, ronfidene... a Heady hand and 'A:,VD-T 1 O t r r f rr For the Cirl who yearns for novelty persistence. All thix. I know, sounds ! 1 IlC bCCVet OT FUCKlUg ike 1 TUTIK the held is an admirable one, sin.e so quite complicated, but if yon will seek' '. manv possibilil.es ..re opened up lu to analyze the requirement, for anv or. V3 "Tl take not everything that micht pos- engines, are never any too clean, no cloth leather decotu I ion. It alwavs appeal to of effort most of these qualities will h, I ' ?'" W ur,,,1, 1 ,,ut ul,at s"r,,.v!9uit 1,0 Dl 1o b" ""' cleanetl vou.eu. m, it Is so closely allied to the found essenliol. No,o,,e cat, do any p.od !?!K62 - - will be ecesar i, the only prin. ...lejand pressed . With a dark skirt a silk .s-orationofihbo.ne. It was a woman, work without conceutratm bis whole V - - - - ' ' ' ' ' j lo w,,lk """ wh"n iU" "'inks pet.tcoat of the sal,.e shade should La ary, but a kit of twelve will supply all that are required, diiee the d. sign is well oi!1i:icd then oilier Jeols are used ,o jriee evpresimi anil a erisp effect to I he work, though there is always the dancer of creating a hard expression. For this reason ninny leather worker, prefer rot lo till in the purls in relief on ihc under side with a eompoMliou wax, io is frequently done. It tends to take away the .fleet of the hand work. J "If pold b used it is applied in ll:e shape of t'.dd leaf, heme worked info the J desim, with a niu.l.llinc tool. Frequently! the entire piece of leather is covered with the old leaf after Ihe modelling is lin-i'linl. lin-i'linl. then a transparent yellow' varnish is applied, which give, Unit marvellous golden glint and richness of color which is common in the old Cordovan pieces.' Silver leaf is sometimes substituted for gold, an.l the effeet i quite as brilliant. Again, if tbe desire be lo have a tinted leather, then oil color thinned with tur-prntiiie tur-prntiiie is applied and ihe varnish is Jail over that "Many combinations can be worked out in this way, and pyrography is pleasingly upptied in connection with the gold, as in the case ol .he Sarae. t, ih-Mzn on the bag. In the early days th. same efie. t was obtained ob-tained by lh- use of wood block,, the idea being the .same as with blink printing, and an CDtire wall covering was overluid with a d-sign printed by the j,id of wooden blocks. With thi-i was used the Hold tracery. '"Much of Ihe beauty of the old Spanish leather resulted from the sort of varnish used, which was supposed to be ti secret which was known only to Ihe ancient ScviHian worker,. However, here I, on5 that has been banded down from genera-lions genera-lions of lenlh.r worker, and compares a, i favorably with Ihe old time recipe n, anything any-thing could do. I got it from a Dan, w ho in i urn 1. arned the combination 'from his father nnd grandfather before, him, it gives the same wonderful sheen seen iu tin- fine old Cordovan leather. I When In ill on over gold or silver leaf tho loiToct is surprisingly beautiful Tuke two parts of linseed oil lo on. part of resin and a half part of aloes and boll it all together until it becomes the color of gold. In result it is magical. !,nd I am very glad lo give it for 1he lm-fit of those, who arc devotees of this splendid crnft." There have been many clever worker, in leather in this conuiry. Evelyn Nord-hoiT, Nord-hoiT, who established the bookbinder)' by hf r trim., was one ol ihe first to experiment experi-ment in the art of lookbinding in connection connec-tion with leather work in this country and gained considerable renown not only by reason of the originality of n woman rn- jgaging in such an occupation hut because I of b.fr intensely clever work. 1 Miss Flizalv-ih and Miss Edith Nixon were the pkmecrs of Srn Francisco, and (Mrs. Anna lewis llipby and her sister iwere among ihe first to trke up the work here in New York. Mrs. Charlotte Jtusck ,1s another woman whose name is inseparably insep-arably connected with the history of the I era ft work in the Fust Iu fact, thr.j j are to-day iu New York many women I w ho names are known the couotry uier I for their neliieveiurnis iu this line ,nd who have turned out pl.-nty of original sliilT quite sufficient lo indicate the possibility possi-bility of further accomplishment in the I art by NVw York girls w ho are thinking jof becoming leather handicraftcr. SINCE the fashion ha been sel by n number of girls of royal English families for leather decora deco-ra i ion the nrl has taken en a new impetus aud likewise ft.nic-what ft.nic-what of a new turn. Paedtker book and magazine covers, divan pillows and the like are still as popular as ever, the former particularly so. sine? thin summer nearly every one is contemplating contemplat-ing a pilgrimage to Oberammercau. but the new chatelaine bags with band wrought melnl mournings have .(iiite takMi the youthful fnnev and some perfectly per-fectly stunning novelties are being made. Mags of all sorl, are to bo worn on lh belt this senson. not only tltose In Elizabethan design but the new bind: clvcl chatelaines with silver nnd gold mountings and the less complex suede leather bag closely resembling some of the Indian handiwork. Taken then altogether, al-together, however, none can surpass those of tooled, modelled or illuminated leather in the point of rarity aud intrinsic lenu1 j. Perhaps: one .if the most exquisite ju,t finish-.'d is done on a delic-.ite ImfT, smooth finished leather and mounted in copper,) w hich is so treated ns to give I bat green-ih green-ih time indicative of age such a, is 6een In the ancient metal dug up among the ruins of Pompeii or found in the tombs of the nncient Egyptian,. In this particular SnFlanee the copper Vdends admirably with the design, partly pj rogriphie, nnd which, by the way, i, most unusual, since it was copied from the coverlet found In the coDin of the patron saint of lcnmarfc, which wa, woven by the Saracen weavers of tl.e eleventh century and which i, now in the Itoyal Museum in Copenhagen - Illuminated Illumi-nated in gold with Ihe design worked out in brown and green to match the in. lal, it is most intricate, aud includes nuiueron motifs common to the nncient foes of Ihc early Christian-. Quile i. m inus is the stylo in which this bag is mounted, since it Is concave instead of convex, ns UMinlly is the case; but this difference is of immense value when the bag is opened, a.s it gives freer access to tbe content,. For the girl who yearn, for novelty the field is an admirable one, since so many possibilities are opened tip ij leal her decora I ion. It always appeals to' vouieu, since it Is so closely allied lo ihe .Horation of t ho home. It was a woman, the Princ.-fs Louise, Marchioness of I.orne, later the Inchess of Argyll, who revived the work 5u England some yeuis ag. nfter she bad seen what women were doing in ibis country. She visited .Santa I'.arbura. Ca)., where the Mexican tooled leather is seen iu such perfection, j yet it was nw.iy hack in Spain that nieu j were responsible for its origin It was between Ihe fourteenth and fifteenth fif-teenth centuries that leather work lirs. became known, ami it Ihei, cons.itiit.-d or of the chief indnslrics in Cordova, Parcelniia and Seville. It was held in! I'sii.-h high repute thai any man entering) the profession- w as first obliged to pass an examination as lo bis abiliir before be could eel a license to work. Novices, in far., were required lo have a lliree yean' apprenticeship before they could! enter Ihe field. From Spain Ihe art spread to Italy, (hence to France and Ihc Netherlands, and as all the arts and crafts have found a fertile lic-ld In Norway. Sweden and lienmark it was taken up th.ro and pur-j sued (o (he point of great perfection. I It will be interesting to girls who have taken up the work to know that there are some rare specimens of old Cordovan leather in the Cluny Museum, iu Puns, and when they are on Ihe Continent Ibis summer they can examine the method! und style and get points to adapt to their own humbler efforts Jn the early days most of tbe leather decoration was pnu'cd nnd related to wall hanging, and upholstery. To-day. while tonic very handsome screens and chair, are covered with the illuminated I decorative leather, yet it is mainly in tbe smaller articles of hou.-'euold decoration thnt woraeu are now vitally interested However, if one desire, to go further thtn; are alway, the example, of the line old Cordovan leather ns an incentive to more ambitious effort. An expert in band made jewelry nnd metal work, hand weaving as well as the leather decorating and many more f the arts nn.l crafts, declares lhat to make the chatelaine bais, or indeed, any of the other articles modelled in leather, is not dilhcult to do. "I in the contrary." says she. ci.coifr-azingly, ci.coifr-azingly, "it is quite simple, but like all the arts and cnifts the work requires accuracy, ac-curacy, confidence, a steady hand and persistence. All thix, I know, sound, quite complicated, but if yon will seek to analyze the requirements for any sort of effort most of these quali.i. s will be found essential. Nootie can do auy goodj work w ithout concentrating bis whole j mind em it." "I thiuk u sieady hand is ouo of the ' primal requisites In leather modelling forj the reason that a false stroke caunor be , corrected as it cau iu painting, but this t A Baedeker Cover in Hand Tooled Leather ; applies as well to wood modelling, although al-though in that case then' is always the i possibility of changing the b sign sotue-whal sotue-whal lo cover up one's mistake-. I believe be-lieve that this need for absolute accurjcy uis a moral effeet on the worker, for it 'applies to all the acts of erne's life. Mistake, Mis-take, cuuiioi be rectified I don t mean lo moralise, but 1 couldn't help drawing the omp.iri.ion. 'TCighl in line with lliis idea I might -nj that physician, have discovered that a therapeutic value e.ists in this craft, aad they are therefore recoiuim tiding it to nervous girls, and many of my private pupil, are under the doctor's tare suffer ing from lhat popular malady, neurasthenia. neuras-thenia. It is said that hand weaving has a similar cffccl. but that is laid to ,the soft whirr of the loom, which has a ! soothing . -fleet. In 1 his work It must be 'the simple fact of gelling the patient co:n-pletcly co:n-pletcly absorbed In a eleliuile occupation., i for ussurrilly there is plenty of excuse for complete concentration in dc. orating leather. J "To do it doesn't require a tremendous .'outlay, for a d..ii tools will be all that! are required anil eight lessons will starl I auy girl ou the road to modelling, illiuni-natiiig illiuni-natiiig and coloring the leather by bet-' self, jnd there Is always the suti-factjou (that the result can never be satisfactorily duplicated in a machine iiii'.lc article. Tl.e work done by hand always has u (crispness and an artistic value which ,that done by-mae hiiic can never possess. "It is a simple process, the first I rick j being to moisten the leather well nyti! it is plii.ble. This is stretched over a board, llu: lallei laid on a low table. A marble s!nt is substituted for stumping the embossed leather. With impression' pa per I acl.c d over the material .he design de-sign is drawn, using the pointed end ofl a modelling tool. j "Ail outlining too!, hammer and three round piincliLb aiv Ihe tools moat l.eces- |