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Show front section, having thc cloth facing against the outside of thc cloth and running run-ning the seam from the upper . to thc lower notch. Turn thc pocket over toward to-ward thc inside, baste, then stitch thc fold edge Turn under a scam on thc other pocket edge and slip it under thc MAKING POCKETS IN BOYS' KNICKERS NOT DIFFICULT Hapless Lads need not go Pocketless when Garments are Home-made Full Directions and Diagrams a piece of the cloth five inches wide and about one incli deep, to serve as a facing fac-ing to the top of the pocket, that the drilling may not show through thc pocket-opening. Ba-tc thc un faced end to the lower edge of the pockct-opening and stitch from thc outside, on a lino with thc row of bastings; then baste the faced end (thc facing toward the cloth of the trousers) to thc upper edge of thc pockct-opening, and make a corresponding corre-sponding row of stitching on that side. 1 it. tmb nip focxrT iiot rocxrr ano vndboap extension piece on the back portion of the knickers, making thc fold-edge on a line with the stitching-line of thc leg seam, that will be made three-eighths of an inch inside thc raw edge of that scam. Stitch this pocket edge in place and stitch also thc edge of the facing-piece that extends inside thc pocket. Raste the leg seam from the pocket notch to thc lower edge. Turn both raw edges of the seam toward the front, in order to make a lap-seam ciTcct on the outside, This stitching finishes thc pockct-opening and also holds thc two ends of thc strip of drilling, making a pocket five inches square If thc cloth is not very stout the fronts of thc knickers may be lined with lining material cut to the same shape, but if this is not necessary a small stay-piece stay-piece of lining should be basted at the crotch on each of the four sections: it is shown on thc left-front in thc first illustration. Here also is shown the facing in which the buttonholes arc to be worked and the facing-piece of lining that must be seamed to thc cloth first There were three of these cut in lining and two in cloth. Lay one of thc lining-pieces lining-pieces on the edge of thc cloth section and facing it, with the notch in both corresponding. cor-responding. Stitch a seam at the edge from the top of thc section to the notch. Turn thc lining-piece under to the wrong side and baste the edge. Join one of the lining-pieces to one of thc cloth facing-picccs in thc same way Stitch it at thc basted edge, then baste it in place to thc front. The buttonholes may he worked in it before or after it is applied. Illustration II sbows thc right-front with thc underlap applied to it. This underlap is composed of a cloth and a lining section seamed together at thc outer edge, not on thc curved side. The curved edge of the cloth facing is seannd to thc front edge of the trousers section, from the waist to the notch, the scam pressed open; then the lining-piece is turned under at its curved edge and basted over the pressed-open seam. On this underlap the buttons arc to be sowed to correspond with the buttonholes in the facing. Thc inch or so on both i ndcrlap and facing, from thc notch to the lower end. is left l'Xfc, and is later included in thc seam that joins the two leg portions together. t- Now, with thc hip-pocket in place and the facings on both front portions, is thc lime to insert the side pockets. A narrow nar-row facing of cloth must be basted to the Inside of th? poc''E'5 thai ii to he joined to the front: thc corresponding correspond-ing facing for -the back was cm in one with thc back portions as a mrrow cx-tcn-.ion at the top of each. Both these facings are for thc purro.,c ol concealing conceal-ing the drilling at the pocket-opening, c-cam tlic faced side of Uic pocku to the XI THERE seems to prevail a general gen-eral idea that the making of the pockets in boys' and mrn's clothing is a mysterious process, pro-cess, unfathomable by the amateur. Because Be-cause of this mistaken notion I have been told that some unhappy small lys are doomed to a pocketless condition when their knickers arc of home make. Such a state of alFairs demands instant remedy, and illustrated proof that putting put-ting in thc pockets is really a simple matter. Thc hip-pocket might bo spared, tut the side-pockets never! Thc first illustration shows how these arc prepared. pre-pared. Drilling is the best material for these pockets, as they need to be strong. A piece about ten inches square is folded in half, forming a pocket five inches wide and ten inches deep. Pin one of these to each front section of thc knickers, knick-ers, and trim the edges to the imc shape as the cloth edge, which usually slopes in a trifle toward thc waist-line, and make at the edge the notches that ! indicate thc length of thc pocket-opening. The lower edge may.be left straight or one corner may be rounded, as shown in thc illustration. If the hip-pocket hip-pocket be made, it should be inserted in thcr ight-hand back portion before that is joined to any other; in fact, that is thc solution of the only difficulties in trousers-making the order of procedure. The hip-pocket is placed first, then the facing on the fronts, next the side pockets, then the outside log-scams; following fol-lowing these the inside leg-seams, then the seam joining the two leg-sections and finally the top-facing, the belt and the lower end of each leg. For boys of eight years and over the trousers arc mually made to button down the front, with an underfacing (in which' buttonholes button-holes arc worked) on thc left side and an underlap, to which the buttons arc sewed, on thc tight-front. ' A pattern of this underfacing is given, and from it must be cut two pieces of cloth and three pieces of lining. Boys' clothing always laps, in closing, from left to right. The position of the hip-pocket is indicated indi-cated in the pattern by perforations. There is also a dart at the top of each back portion. The perforations must be transerred to thc cloth by making a chalk mark through each ; then, when the pattern is removed, go over these chalk dots with tailors' tacks, that will mark the outline of thc dart-seam on both pieces. Mark thc pocket position al the amc time. Both darts arc to be taken up, but thc pocket is made in the right side only. Stitch the darts and press thc cam open though i do not advise cutting thc dart. It is easy to press thc seam open without. Cut a ticce of the same cloth an inch and one-lalf one-lalf wide and one inch longer than the marked length for the pocket. Lay it on the outside of thc right-hand back portion, over the pocket-mark. From thc underside make a line of basting stitches along thc pocket-mark and through both pieces of cloth. To the underside baste a piece of canvas of corresponding tire and in the same position. posi-tion. From the outside make a row of machine stitching at each side of the marking basting and as close to it as possible not more than one-eighth of an inch. The stitching is made at thc sides only, not across the ends. Tic the ends of the threads securely, cut along the marking-line with a pair of sharp scissors and push through the opening so made the applied piece of cloth allowing al-lowing a welt-edge of it to extend beyond be-yond the jtitchmg-line at each edc of the pocket-openmg. Baste doscly to hold thc cloth in ..lace, and pms it well. Take a piece of drilling five incite wide and ten inchc-long; on one end baste L3.TXI iKinz tart o tut MicniMOaa and stitch from the outside, making the stitching an apparent continuation of lliDt on thc front idwe of the pocket-opvning. pocket-opvning. M.-.kc a fimil.ir row of stitching, stitch-ing, from the upper pocket notch to tbe wauL Turn in a ccar.i on thc unjoined . I HOW-TO CUT'THB SlDQ POCKET AND FACE THE - FTrFROMV |