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Show Curry and Feathery Trimmings Trim-mings Give SoftLinesThat Frame theFace - Feathers Not Smart Unless Oddly Placed On the Hat Tarns II Lie Flat and They Mount Hi&h and ome Are Tip-Tilted Tip-Tilted Purple Grapes and Velvet In a Theatre Toque. 0 soft are the outline of the HE ' Wi -. i ni.mv 'f them, off the head, look like a handful of rich fabric on which a plume M has hcen tossed. It is hard to imagine wL i he mass of soft material Is a hat. H But once on the head, behold the beautiful fabric takes on perfect and ML lovely lines, framing the face with rM enchant Ing becomingncss while the gB casually adjusted plume slants or curls BB at a rakish angle which gives defini- Mi tlon and oh such smartness to the SMI whole. jun The other day one woman came JM upon another who Is notable for her Ml .stunning millinery Every hat the latin lat-in tcr woman wears seems to be exactly iiiM jMght according to fashion's latest man-SJll man-SJll na:e. When the caller arrived she HOI was busily ripping out the Inside of tM her last winters velvet tricornc. 19u "What on earth arc you doing with H that hat?" was the question put to HB her. "Why. I'm taking out the ijtjl buckram lining," replied the busy one M serenely "All the new hats arc soft. Ull floppy affairs you know with the ma-il ma-il Icrlal draping Itself unsupported. I yUM fancy, without the buckram founda-(IBm founda-(IBm "on un0er the crown thia particular Umb tricornc which 1 always loved it was Ufgl so comfortable will be exactly right hH for this season " And it was. When Ijltta Fhe pulled the spineless hat on her '(B head, giving a twist to tho brim here RB, und a yank to the crown there, resuli-iuK' resuli-iuK' od a stunning soft-crowned model with Jam a brim that turned back from the face Iy at Just tho right slant. It Is all In the line, you see. this year, and in the MUt way the hat fits the head. Provided G-yrziy Squirrel Nq tho brim is right and the crown is soft, almost any hat will look correct when correctly put on. Low Crowns Softly Draped You will Immediately note the low crowns on nil the hats pictured today. I But most of these crowns if supported I by stiff foundations would be considerably consid-erably higher than they are There l tsr plenty of material in them, but the material crushes down to give the correct cor-rect draped effect. If there are brims, 'the brims are also soft In line. Even ! the big hats with sailor brims give hhls soft effect because the brims are I made of supple, flexible stuff covered with rich material, and they droop ! gracefully under the weight of some trimming or under the weight of their own handsome fabric. Sometimes the draped crown of a tarn is pulled mu h 1 higher on one side than the other and ; stayed with an upright feather but there is never height on both sides. I Lewis has hrought out a tarn model of cinnamon brown velvet which has la deep mushroom brim fluted a little along the right side and lifted to show the hair. On the same side the : full lam crown of velvet is pulled up to a peak and a pair of golden brown ' tjUUIs pointing skyward increase the ! effect of height and also support the pulled-up velvet. At the opposite side, where the brim slants downward the velvet crown droop.? over, almost cov- erlng the brim. Feathers Rest Against The Neck Ostrich plumes curl around the new ! hats and snuggle against the wearer's ' cheek and neck, an effect that Is usually very becoming since it makes a charming frame for the face. Such a hat Is pictured in the model of marine blue velvet with a long uncurled ostrich plume in soft gray. The feather ! starts at the front of the hat, passes j around tho left side where the brim I rolls up slightly, and conies around to I the right side of the hat under the brim, the tip of the long feather curl-I curl-I Ing against tho wearer's neck and j check. Sucli a hat is not intended for wear with a veil which would spoil the soft, fluffy effect of the ostrich , plume. Sometimes a feather is caught to the hat on the right side and makes no pretense of passing around the crown. A rather short, thick ostrich i tip is used in such a case, and the end ! of the feather is securely sewed under I the brim, the fluffy tip of the feather CUrllng downward over hair and neck. ' I A pretty model of this type is a low- crowned tarn of blue velvet embroid-' embroid-' ered all over with silver thread. A black ostrich tip curls downward co-queftishly co-queftishly over the right car. Feathers And Pur Often Comb 1 d Now that November Is here, fur is i beginning to appear on millinery and' from present Indications fur-trimmed hats are going to be smarter than all-! fur hats. Very rich are the comblna- I tions of moleskin, kolinsky and beaver I with metal brocade In glowing colors. One modol with a rather deep turban, brim of kolinsky has a draped crown I Of tomato and gold velvet brocade. ' land a feather In the gorgeous tomato to-mato red shade curls downward over the right ear. These fur brims are made to look soft by pleating the fur. or lapping it casually and tacking down the laps here and there. The hat brim fluted at one side has been referred to earlier. This pleated or I j lapped effect in a fur brim is shown I in the toque of moleskin and duvetyn and tho effect is much softer than a ' st raiKht-around band of moleskin ris-I ris-I Ing from the face. This hat has a 4CvrV ,V?:: ' Thi3 Toque "Was dTCoIegkiT aC )yy -Tf. una s Grsy w lL, Wm D.r.Crwn I; V.'- .jftrT ' :trV ' ' "!v''. .'irsfc"j&'"' ," il - '- . Stiff Blocked gray coq feather placed oddly upsldc-(Iovmi upsldc-(Iovmi at the rigiit side another very smart touch When fur and feathers arc used together to-gether both arc added with discretion for too much fur and feathers could spoil any hat. An example of what a fur and feather trimmed model ought to be Is shown in the delightful little hat for restaurant and theatre wear. The muff is made ofiiink strips separated by sjrips of dark brown velr vet so that it may be used With various vari-ous costumes. Mink is used in the little theatre hat also and the mink bands alternate with folds of deep blue velvet, the fold nearest the brim being be-ing looped up under a sparkling cartwheel cart-wheel of brilliants. A mass of blue ostrich tumbles over the back of the hat and resls on the hair. A hat of i this sorfmust be very cleverly built, not to look bulky on the head, and the pictured model Is a masterpiece ' all soft lines, lightness and grace. In ; spite of the velvet, fur and feathers; used for such a small turban An excellent model. If one dotes on I feathery trimming Is pictured in the I blocked beaver turbr.n with shaded plumes arranged on lop. The hand-i jsQme feathers cover the top of the hat i j entirely and one of tho plumes curls i backward, nodding smartly a; the rear. Here again is an Instanco of well-planned lines though the feathers seem to be carelessly put on the hat. I Small l nr Hats Dressed Dp with Lnc Veils It used to be a problem how to wear a veil with a fur hat, for the veil was sure to llatten the nap of the fur brim and make a hard outline This year's fur hat Is mostly crown ind underneath is a narrow velvet brim which seems Just made to support sup-port the veil. A feichlng model ts pictured, a tarn of gray squirrel with a tiny briav of black velvet to which is sewed a short veil of chantilly lace. Under the squirrel crown a deep blue faille ribbon Is drawn and s tied In -i pert bow at one fide. The gray squirrel squir-rel hat matches a gray squirrel stole-wrap, stole-wrap, bit the little hat would be equally charming in mink or kolinsky. Large Hrt- Have Picture Lines It must be admitted that small hats of dashing style are preferred by fashion just now. but she smiles too upon large hats and many of these arc noted with formal costumes in the afternoon. Of course, 'he large hit docs not look well with a yell and veils ore very much the thing at this moment, but If you aro of the type which looks bet in a big hat. by all" means have one. And have It mdsfly i i haps and lines with a feather In Just 1 the right place. crv stunning Is the j big velvet sailor with a Lather at the' edge of the brim. The hat Is made of o.-ow n civ et and the rather scraggly. I but excessively smart plume Is in of buff and canary yellow An- IJ r bic hat is n,aie of black panne et and !m.- no trlmmin- - i ea big r,i -handled pin thrust i-n the lS own at one j.id nc of 'he livable little theatre hats of the seaon has a low crown of ermine m &i ern Hp .r ' a dm ped brim iii made of purple velvet and purple i, era p.- '.M- u-ap-- ii'stors follow ing the .1 raped folds of elect around the j hat. W |