Show i In TT I II A I LL b. b FT S r-l r fri I. I 1 J M I 0 N NA n A r rI I i s r I x f j i v I j J t. t 4 4 z sr 4 1 e f 1 y a w 4 I S K j f The q u n r t e r a h l' l coat of this f t gray kasha outfit has G a smart collar of white end black skunk OO I s la the drew is faille s ji jJ A n it Sq E p a K ty toe A practical frock for lor wear under a II fur lur a coat ii is of navy blue t. t y j jp p i q u etine eline trimmed t with silver ilver metal bul bul- Ions Ion and a II silver ilver j leather Jeather belt bets N I f a new new- mode reveals a definite THE T trend towards more decorative clothes The simple and often olten mannish fashions of past seasons with their utter lack of individuality and their theirs stern s m insistence on uniformity have given way to elaborate styles gay in the tho matter of ornament and delightfully fem fern feminine 4 nine as regards s silhouette tte I There Therein is also great variety variety variety-variety variety of line and amazing ingenuity in the use of ornamental detail This versatility of silhouette combined with more decora decora- decorative decorative tive tine effects in both day and evening cos cos- costumes costume costumes tume is the e outstanding F characteristic of the fall mode In day frocks both tho the straight and the flared line are seen Sports clothes and simple tailored morning dresses are aro partial to the he 00 straight-line straight silhouette The skirt kirt is never perfectly plain as was the case of costumes of this kind in past years cars Practically every skirt these days is given variety and interest by some form of pleating Skirts are arc pleated box-pleated side pleated side pleated finished with inverted pleats or clusters of pleats at atthe atthe the tho sides or front Frequently the pleats aro are stitched down around the hips to form a yoke The same straight line is apparent in sports and tailored coats and here also I pleats are arc used for trimming and to case the outline The shoulder-line shoulder in day all-day frocks ia is 3 narrow sleeves for the most part are long and fitting close-fitting and md the material swathes the tightly about the hips Afternoon modes reveal a n more supple silhouette Flaring details are apparent in the majority of skirts skirts aprons panels tiers and pleats of all kinds Cas Cas- Cascading Cascading Cascading cading drapery is often orten used on both the bodice and skirt and sashes tie tic directly in front their long ends ende giving the ef of- effect of panels The most most youthful note noto in the way of flaring skirts is Ie a gathered ruffle around the bottom This follows ll R a t ye yea a 1 h fl fla a a straight line or curves up on one side ending at the waist In the evening the silhouette is even more varied Here the skirts are longer several prominent designers sponsoring a really long skirt All man manner mannor nor ner of floating draperies are used the tho flying panels on the skirt often being a continuation of the same type of drap drap- drapery cry ery on the tho bodice The line hem is invariably uneven several of the new evening skirts being considerably longer in back than front Or the line of the hem may descend abruptly on one side side side-a a method favored by Chanel who is also responsible for the evening gown finished at the bottom with witha a circular flounce that dips to a long line in back I have selected four widely contrast contrast- contrasting contrasting ing models to show today today today-a a tailored day frock a serviceable street coat an after after- ensemble and an evening gown In each of these models you will readily observe some salient feature of the fall mode Take the tailored day dress for in in- in stance At first glance this slim model is strongly reminiscent of the mannish modes of other years This simplicity s J n s y yV r MG aH r V I r R f i iA A t E EWhite r White crepe Elizabeth embroidered em em- embroidered broidered in ia gleaming bugles burin and trimmed with shaggy haUY black lowers flowers fashions the I 8 y l' Bodice of this thi charming ev v L k ning gown t r k however Is only in the matter of line In all other j respects this frock is the essence of sophistication In Inthe Inthe Inthe the first place the silhouette while pre pre- preserving preserving preserving serving a n pencil-like pencil outline when the figure is at rest breaks into a delightful ripple below the waist line at the th slight slight- slightest est cst movement due to a finely pleated skirt The frock frock- clings closely at the tho hips and is so cut that the bodice blouses slightly in back a back a line that makes for slenderness The long sleeves the nar nar- narrow narrow row rov shoulders and above ab ve all the deep V cut to reveal a white satin vest aTe are all nil typical t of the new fall styles in frocks of this character I have selected a fine twilled wollen in navy blue for fr the material for this dress as both fabric and color col r are are prat practical practical and smart And to enliven this dark background I have added a sophist sophisticated sophisticated trimming in tho the form fonn of silver metal buttons on the front and sleeves and a narrow silver leather ieather belt ending in metal links in front Tho The vest st is creamy white satin tucked and finished tiny ball buttons The The smart materials for tailored frocks of this character and for sports clothes are aro tho the very fine twilled weaves tweed novelty woolens of all descriptions descriptions- Copyright 1927 Dy 1 III some woven a with a metal thread thread- jer jer- jersey jersey sey the new angora jersey that has an anu P PU u unbelievably 1 sK f soft brushed a surface ka ka- kas s h a velvet civet e een e n and printed vel vel- vel- vel vet 1 The colors of the day mode aro ara black beige very vcr y dark dark- i brown black f- f fI fand I and white w h i to d l 1 c com combine combine- o m b bin i n a- a lions gray g r a navy n a v y blue and green t. t x e The outstanding out out- outstanding standing fab fab- fabrics fabrics Tics for for for- formal formal formal mal after after- afternoon afternoon aft c r- r noon costumes are velvet and satin Here black leads with gray and dark duk brown next in favor Many ensembles arc are in two-color two combinations or several shades of one hue Three prominent notes in the new mode modo are embodied in the afternoon frets ren it atlon social Ion Inc Ie A I V r s i c q R RG 1 G l S y 1 r a coat illus illus- illustrated illustrated to- to tod tad d day a y In Inthe Inthe I x the first plat place it is a velvet GD s s secondly c 0 condly it is the d 9 new very dark dark- d ark a brown brownshade browns oy shade s had e s 4 and last last- lastly lastly ly it is tucked on a the th front t. t 4 aid ad back to give the effect of diagonal d i a cor cording ding Here is isa isn 1 a n p parent Dark D a r k brown velvet also al a l s o a the thes them makes m a k e. e this smart s t r night night- straight line co coat t. t The 1 I i n e sil- sil collar which follows h o a u ci e t te fe fethe the new surplice line is and a n d the fox shading from beige wrap wrap- sv r a p to dark brown a round c closing 1 osing typical of afternoon coats of this type The collar is f x shading S s fron Iron beige to dark brown and the surplice line of this is also new Another decorative note is found in the lining of this coat which is striped faille in tan un and caramel color If you are planning a n three-piece three cos- cos cosy y J 0 f fI I tume that must serve for both formal and informal occasions I know of no material so satisfactory as kasha It is light warm wann and distinguished i Li L. appear appear- ance When developed in some Bome light neutral tone such as beige or gray a ft costume of this soft fabric is extremely chic as well as unusually practical I have used light gray kasha for the ensemble shown today Combined with this is white faille which makes the top of the piece one-piece frock The coat is a s smart three-quarter three length affair trimmed with cording of the material in ina a design of large flower motifs on the border and sleeves The long shawl col col- collar collar II- II lar br is a n decided novelty in the way of furs It is white skunk touched here and there with black The coat lining of this lovely outfit is white satin salin trimmed on the fronts with kasha strips embroidered in silver thread A very youthful frock accompanies this coat The skirt is kasha ornamented orna orna- ornamented ornamented with the same flower design made of cording of the material It has a large box pleat directly in front and Is finished with a narrow belt that passes through silver metal rings The loose Joose bodice top is white faille faille faille-a a youthful note in connection with the gray kasha kuha Again a small felt hat Is used to com com- complete complete complete this outfit It is gray felt with a abrim abrim abrim brim that turns off the face and Is II cut cutin cutin cutin in an uneven line For evening wear two colors and fre he- frequently frequently two contrasting fabrics are com com- combined combined combined in the tho same costume Such is the shown today today today- case of the evening gown a n bouffant creation that adds the Inter inter- Interest interest interest est of a n dramatic black and white color scheme to its other The bodice of this youthful creation comes well ell below the waist-line waist molding the figure and finished both back and front with a V-shaped V It Itis Itis Itis is white crepe Elizabeth covered conred all over with gleaming white and crystal bugles s sIn In sharp contrast to this sophisticated top is the bouffant skirt which is made of two flounces of pleated black tulle This treatment gives a flaring silhouette below the hips and the uneven line hem now so much Much in vogue |