| Show 11 Black lac and a d Wl it Effects ec Mark Costumes for ut 4 Autumn I By SARA MARSHALL COOK J r r rae r ae a ss 1 l lF ls 4 lJ fj F s C l laR I aR S r jI j t jJ l J I r 3 1 lr yi S f it b r y yc yr c r l lj f j i Yf p 0 y f L 1 e 5 4 r rA A J C r r ri i Jj i ir I Iq rt h hy I IY q h fj y 91 t tit it A Y I i tl 7 r I Y i 3 w j q i et f s r k 1 il lr iffy t i fr y fr J J 1 l tl t 1 rl u a f I 9 lr A I 17 z 1 r ft i 00 I I r JJ I I I i J v A V ti t r i U Uj t j C u 4 1 r rC ir 2 1 t I i r t i I IJ II M ran V YS a YI J F 9 I 1 nl 1 E lj u Ave f PIC ID DJ Ie godet s coat trimmed I 1 n ith th bards of grey fox Striking Contrasts Achieved by Snowy Sno y E Embroidery and Fur Brilliant Jackets Are Arc Edged With Fur Long Tunic Blouses of Metal Brocades f changes have ta- ta tah taken h ken n place m in the lines Imes of dresses and coats and while a cursory domination of tIe the new st les might lead one to belIe belze e a that last seasons season's frock could be camouflaged d by slight light changes changes Into a new autumn I w h fi 1 1 I I 4 1 N i 1 a f 4 y F model t this is is simply a vision ision There is a subtle widening of the line from the knees and it is like the proverbial inch in a mans man's stature when hen one olle attempts to reconcile recon recon- reconcile reconcile cile it to last years year's ears clothes The waistline too has moved to toa toa toa a new salient and since lance val are one of fashions fashion's significant marks this makes a striking differ difference ence The Tre line of spring was some some- somewhere where in the vicinity of the hips While this season the v waistline oc- oc occupies occupies oc occupies a much lower loer position and really becomes becomes become a hobble around the legs or is absent alto altogether ether Suit Coats and Skirts Of Contrasting Fabrics THOSE HOSE simple little frocks of last season guiltless of tucks or ruf ruf- ruffles ruffles lies fles and uncorrupted by the godet rave have vanished The bateau necklines neckline js S struggling with oblivion and thelong the thelong thelong long skirts skirts that Paris has so so stub stub- s t r t hl 4 r fi- fi It J try t l h hill J ill tip J r of 4 y i a I V IV s s r j- j I i l V t tr tf t- t tAI f r AI Martial ial ar of el Armand r t j dress and coat of blac with n ith white chen chen- chenIlle chenille Ille and marabou em- em embroidery ern rod er t f a y Three piece Th ree suit with h deep bands Worth TV orth model emphasizing izing i the godel godet developed o of green Smyrna wool extreme wool trimmed 1 m black b velvet with moth n ith bands oj of of castor or I cross fox Afternoon dress m in o e cy cyclamen r velvet trimmed with fringes fringe of monkey fur and gold cry w i clun to for several seasons s-m s Ji I-Ji n nare are arc among the dear departed Suits that soberly displayed a jacket and skirt shIrt of the same ma- ma ma material tonal tenal cut upon classical lines lims have given way to a great extent to little strangers that have brilliant Jackets edged all around with fur and flar flar- flar- flar flaring flaring ing mg skirts of velours in somber Bomber hue or perhaps a saucy jacket of sIlver tissue be furred or and andt I embroidered t in company with a short colored bright-colored skirt of v velours de lame When the short jacket two piece two suit bUlt is seen it is invariably accompanied accompanied accompanied by an interesting vest blouse always in contrast Some of these blouses are quite long in tunic style andare and are very elaborate not Infrequently being in metal bro bro- brocades bro bro- brocades brocades cades further elaborated by em- em embroideries em embroideries in metal and bright colors Much use usa is made of black and white effects notably white em- em embroideries embroideries em embroideries on black backgrounds background White f fir fur r is also used where the black and white hite effect is desired A distinctly new embroider embroidery in whIte is made of a combination of chenille and marabou The work when applied to black velvet is as delicate as the tho In seed Having having as it does a downy surface extremely fragile but very I effective I Metal Cloth Jacket Are Lined With Fur JEANNE LANVIN is responsible for suits having metal cloth jackets which she makes very charming and really quite sUItable for outdoor wear in winter with their fur linings deep collars collara and culls cuffs of fur and the bright embroidery embroidery ery fry which gives an appearance of great warmth J Jenny too shows some of these suits suite and the only fur visible on a n black suit is the tiny edge of ermine that peeps out all allaround allaround allaround around the jacket and down the front of the skirt The suit is ia such only nominally J JW W I W r wa i I 1 li rye s ak J t 45 r 1 if JI r k i r I i ji r o I jiL 4 L fA r V rd rdV Y v vt vr V t r l for it invariably is composed of a and a dress dregs True the dress of this sartorial sketch keeps up the pretense in many cases of being a waist and skirt with Ith separate entities entities ties by employing two materials in contrasting color or texture for the upper and lo lower er portions but this is a vent veritable able sham The waist and skirt are art an an indissoluble union They are joined in every sense of the word word-by word by machine stitching by embroidery by tucks and ruffles and nd by numberless other devices devices Another type type of sul suit that is popular popular popular lar among the new autumn fashions is the three quarter length coat and and andI I dress The three-quarter three length coat returns to favor after so long a time that the flappers will not remember them at all in any measure of popularity popularity larity The length knee-length coat lends itself admirably to the new flaring lines of autumn and is a s refreshing change from the long coat and the eternal short jacket of other seasons Coats of this type are usually cut flaring and are with trimmed trimmed with fur fur- furas furas fur furas as Is if almost every garment arment in Paris Parit These suits are often embroider embroidered d din in the fashionable Chinese and Per Per- Persian Per Per- Persian Persian sian motifs The dress in the com com- combination combination combination S Js s generally simple in cut very ery often and extravagant extravagant- 1 t qA i I 1 ft 1 t A k 1 L Ls I s I White ermine ermi re coat lined with black t velvet elvet and trimmed with deep fr fringes ngu of monkey mon fur ly trimmed with fur and embroidery embroidery ery Some three-quarter three length coats after being removed display a blouse of the same came length And cut cutas cutas cutas as the coa coat so BO that the Ae th skirt is sim sim- simpI simply pI ply a inches few few inches material of of material The circular effect is very much used in these suits although there are a goodly number of straight-line straight tail tail- tail tail-leurs leurs as well without a suggestion of ruffle or godet Coats have changed as much as 8 frocks and the coats we wore last spring have a different appearance appearance that marks in tell-tale tell manner their age Coats this fall have no waist waist- waistline waistline waistline line except in a minority of cases and the coats that tied on one side are to be seen no more The flares of fall are everywhere and very fre- fre frequently frequently fre frequently coats show flaring fur bands around the bottom is showing some interest interest- interesting interesting interesting ing flaring skirts which she stiffens on the sides with to accentuate accentuate accentuate ate the changed line of the silhouette These are luxuriously warm with fur used in quantities butery but very ery ery fre- fre frequently frequently fre frequently they have havo no apparent fastening You simply clutch the opening with your right or left hand and make this member serve as a button Coats With Neither Belt nor Button TAE cut straight coat with fur around its edges and hawing having no belt or button is very prominent in inthe inthe inthe the autumn collections It extends to within an eighth of the length of the dress and follows very closely the lines Iines introduced by Chanel in inthe inthe inthe the spring departing in the matter of fur and anJi embroidery rather than cut IThe i iThe The collection of Martial et Armand Armand Ar- Ar Armand mand is characterized by continued use of cf the straight silhouette to- to together together to together gether with the low waistline indi Indi- Indicated indicated indicated more frequently by slight tightening in the cut of the dress and the drawing closely about the hips in preference to the the girdle or belt An interesting ex- ex exception exception ex exception to this is the tende tendency cy to draw a side drapery draper toward the back and place the there e a cleverly knotted bow sometimes sometime slightly lIke a bustle and and I again simple and flat like UK for tie-strings tie of an apron or the knotted ends of a handkerchief On dresses of this character then th thenis thenis eIS IS sometimes an apron front or 01 o panel which simulates the apron effect ThIs Thia f feature holds just a slight suggestion of the 1880 tIe tIeback tieback tieback back The side aide drapery finishing wIth a big bow or some arrange arrange- arrangement arrangement meat ment of the material which simu simu- simulates simulates lates a bow also la is used The Chinese note is I not overlooked either in silhouette fabrics or decoration deco decoration ration The straight tunic tunic nic without belt is distinctly Chinese This is often embroidered in Chinese land land- landscape landscape pattern again it is la banded in Chinese style with typical em em bits of Chinese decoration in the form of embroider embroideries lea ies and motifs developed in silk metal or of some lacquered composition composition composition tion are Seen seen The introduction of o bright colors on black is much in evidence along with brilliant blues Chinese reds deep purples and leaf leafgreen leafgreen green on backgrounds of black The Cape Redingote ti J i Among Smartest Model Models ONE kNE of the cleverest things among I the new fall models is a cape cape- redingote The cut is such that the wearer has the silhouette exactly like the redingote with its lt full flar flar- flaring flaring ing skirt but above the shoulder the wrap drags clings closely and really is a cape there being not even an open open- opening opening ing for the arms arms- Martial et ct Armand make clever use of many of the new Smyrna pat pat- pattern pattern p tern wools and cashmere brocades in metal and wool These are used for coats with collars collan and cuffs of beautiful fur as well as for tor three-piece three suits y yA A typical model named J is shown at the right of the group of two at the top lop of the the page It is isa isa isa a smart th three piece suit suit in green Smyrna trimmed with deep bands banc of castor The dress Is in ins simple chemise style and the cape has a adeep adeep deep shawl point at the back new materIals come In for a good share of attention in this thi collection A clever use is ia made of carne carr carree e the the tho new panel p oblong printed moire showing an design in op opposing osin osing color |
