Show TAKES skill TO CUT DIAMONDS methods of turning the rough hough stones into brilliants brilliantz Brilli ants exi by expert WORLD WAR PUT PRICES UP but they are arc being dought bought and DIs dl played in this country moro more than ever before very few are perfect new york OB is coveted gellis and ornaments have lost none of their popularity since the lute inte war mar inn 11 ay iy who lio never neer possessed these brilliants brilliantz brilli ants tire wearing them today can en oil though they cost more than f formerly 0 ri few 1 ev persons realize tile tie kija 8 it takes to cut ind arid polish dla din monds monda for the market diamonds its aa they tire found in the rough state herbert ller beit 11 whitlock curator of tile department of mineralogy at the museum of natural history said are aio not impressive they diio live none iloilo of tiro tile magical lushes flashes of light which in alie polished stone makes likes them thein unique adiong the noble family of gems arid and it la Is here that n goodly part of the price of diamonds I 1 Is s accumulated for the art of turning a n rough diamond into a polished brill inet Is a long process s requiring it superlative degree of skill there Is no nn better way to tills than in ID follow the diamond from tho mine 1 14 the jeweler P cler and sic see for ourselves just list whai happens liap pons to it when the diamonds tire recovered front from the tit mine they tire aro not by any menus till all of them cleair and colorless col orles as 11 self bolf respecting dinillo nd should ho be indeed only about 25 2 per cent of the lie stones found are without some faint color so 0 we o find that at tile the beginning of its travels tile the diamond trillion Is intro ditled to tile sorter TIB the sorter la Is a kind of super export expert on oil diamonds whose aho vho e eye cic hns been mined tied through years anre of practice to deflect tile lie slightest variations in ili color of diamonds dla and to ind flaws in ill stomps with pill nn case which Is less than un till canny sorting tile the diamonds st q ili sorting diamonds Is ohp ali bf thil th stone for cutting lat its ls assane that the he stone shoso whoso travels rinds we c are arc fol jowl 13 berteil hito tile tho grade known knon BS as close gads 1 comprising flawless crystals cri cry from which fair bril liann can call bo be cut or to uso use the trade term aadot these usually have eight sides or facets triangular in next conios comes a sorting resorting re rc of lle ille alose goods into eight grades ranging from blue white hutc which comprises the stones to sello lov and brown which tire are so badly on off color nj to bo be unfit for gums genis it if our stone lias fins passed the cratl ral cal test of the sorter and la Is place in one of tile the higher grades it Is weighed wel glied wrapped rapped up in a parcel with etli others of its kind a price per carat Is assigned signed ns to it and it Is sold to a diamond dealer and ultimately finds its way to the workshop of tile diamond polisher here nt the hands of a highly skilled workman it Is destined to lie ha turned into a gem gein ill to beauty or opulence most of tills this Is done lit in holland niad especially lit in amsterdam which til cli the fifteenth ecil century tory tills hns been famous for tills industry the rile surface ties together with any superficial fins aro are first split awny from tin tho stone sometimes when lion the stone Is largo large it Is of to saw it into two or more pieces so as to save its is much ets as possible sible of the weight in ili cut dla din aion 4 tile the rough shaping of the diamond din monI Is done through nil an operation called limiting which alch consists of caring wearing A antny w ny tile the corners by rubbing one stone against another tills was ns formerly a process tile the two diamonds bling being mounted on sticks licud in ili elther cither blind by the lapidary iut even epen in tile the ancient arid and conservative art of diamond cutting settle mechanical ini ain prove ments have crept in and now in roost of the shops a rapidly turning spindle takes the place of conj of the hand sticks II 11 having Havi tig rough shaped our diamond we now come to the fil finishing lishing operation the lie producing of the facets which give brilliancy all and sparkle to it and willell alik h la Is technically clinically te known na as pot pol bisbing tile the holder of the stone during tile the polishing consists of a small cut cup oil a long stoll stem which la 19 called a dot dop arid and much resembles a tulip A soldat composed of one part tin and three parts lead la Is placed in tile lie dop and heated until soft the Is then Im bedded in the sol or cr with a portion of tile the stone on which tile the desired facet Is to bo be cut placed uppermost arid almost completely surrounded by tile tho solder tile the top dop la 19 now fastened by mentis of its stein in ili a heavy brou frou arm called tho the tongs tonga in such a position as to bring tile position ot of the facet to he be cut exactly undermost when it Is 13 placed in coutant with the polishing wheel lieal or lap tile latter Is made of soft iron and turns at tho the rate of 0 about 1000 revolutions a minute several hours pre aro required to cut one facet then the stone Is readjusted for ti nother one until nil of tile the 58 little facets in ili which lies the secret of its brilliancy tire are produced |