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Show Embroidery Is ' Used in Paris Since it Is tlie little things about the French fashions of this season that, paradoxically enough, are new and arresting, ar-resting, then it is the little tilings which demand our attention for more than a passing moment, writes a Fai'is fashion correspondent. About all the gowns, whether or not tliey are new in silhouette, there is some entirely freaii note in the way of their trimming. The subtle. little ways that the French can find to tuck a new expression of adornment adorn-ment about a gowu are continually surprising, sur-prising, even to those who know them best. They announce that embroidery is not as good In style as it once was and then they proceed to tuck in tiny touches of embroidery that are beautiful beau-tiful in themselves and without which the gown would amount to nothing at all. The conclusion is, then, that one cannot take their word on generalities, but that, if the French dressmaker is to be fully understood, her productions produc-tions must be regarded one at a time and in detail, for she contradicts herself her-self just about as often as she makes a gown, and in this way she asserts her own artistic right to be called a designer. No road is the right road for her except the one that she chooses to. take the next moment. There is more and more of a tendency ten-dency to make many gowns which are entirely plain, but, on the contrary, when there is trimming, it assumes an altogether new importance, because it is judiciously done. It is something which must be studied to be appreciated, appreci-ated, and there is no possibility of using a spot of trimming to cover up a defect. The lines and the trimming of the new gowns all work together; they do not overlap in any instance, but each has its distinct part. Small Amount of Trimming. As a rule, nowadays, there Is not a great deal of trimming on any one gown, but for that very reason each bit of it assumes an ennanced value. The embroidery that one sees Is not so lavishly applied ; it is distributed in more oi less isolated spots. The tendency is more toward the distribution distribu-tion of large motifs, with big spaces left between them, rather than to lump them together in any one place. But, just for an exception, in the collection col-lection of Patou there are to be found a number of embroidered trimmings very finely done and applied in closely set rows. Another embroidered trimming trim-ming has pearls superimposed on a loosely woven red woolen material, which is, in its turn, applied as the trimming of a frock of blue serge. Many of the designers are using printed materials, silks and even cottons, cot-tons, out of which they pick a certain pattern and proceed to embroider it again with threads or with beads. Martial et Armand have done this with a piece of foulard printed in Persian pattern, to which they have added certain cer-tain groupings of tiny beads and out-linings out-linings of soutache braid. There is an original sort of trimming trim-ming made of medallions of enamel in iridescent shades of blue and black. They look very lovely when used for trimming a dress of some dark mate- Afternoon Frock of Black Lace and Black Satin With Roses at Waistline. Waist-line. rial. In fact, enamel arranged in various var-ious sorts of ornaments is very much used by the French creators this season. sea-son. I'olret uses enamel to make a sot of cuffs for one of his costumes. I'olret has another trimming made of little rings of wooden material, which, when they are grouped together, togeth-er, give something the elTccs of edgings edg-ings of ostrich feathers. Strings of Wooden Beads. Most of the couturiers are showing this season strings of wooden bends In strongly contrasting colors as red and blnck. for instance. They are using, too. collars of sheer orirandie t rimmed with lace, edged with tucks or handled in some way to enhance the effect of its ira:ii:ireut Texi'ire. Pendants and drops and acorns and i'eail friiiir. . rttv u-od ,, airfiin. though they cannot in any way be said to dominate the trimmings mode. Madeleine et Madeleine use acorns to fringe the hem of the thinnest of chiffon chif-fon frocks. They give a quivering look to the thing, which is what (lie French love to call "amusing." The clicking sound of these wooden beads knocking knock-ing against each other is not the least of their charming ways, for they achieve in this way a certain piquancy. pi-quancy. Again in the collection of Madeleine et Madeleine one sees a gown of thin muslin in gray, with turtle dove plumes IuuoIm Ami I h"80'' fcsal J j O w (too l The Blue Serge Suit for Spring Has Braid Trimming and Dainty Ornamentation. Orna-mentation. laid on flat for trimming. They have a street frock, the collar of which is clasped by a woolen rose standing out in bold relief, and two more of these flowers are placed at one side of the belt. On the belt of another gown there is an enormous cocarde made of black cire satin, with a red center. For trimming the designers love to use rows -of little flat flowers placed along the edges wherever it is possible possi-ble to use them. Sometimes they are flowers, and again they are fruits, and they are always most delicately and Intricately put together. Molyneux uses a collection of flowers flow-ers and fruits lacquered over for a finish, and these he winds into a garland gar-land to be used for trimming on a gown wherever they feel most at home. Lelong likes to use great flowers made of soft pieces of leather, though he is apt to substitute a rosette of silver Ibbon. Flowers for the Waistline. On evening gowns there are any number of these flowers and garlands used at the waistline. Patou blends two huge roses in two shades of pink on the. evening gown of black satin. Cle makes a big bouquet of different sorts of blossoms to blend with his preferred gowns of the Second empire. Then sometimes, and just for the sake of originality, he places the flowers at the back instead of the side. Doeuillet trims some of his tail-leurs tail-leurs with edgings of silk braid alternately alter-nately arranged. His favorite combination com-bination of color is dark blue and bluck. There is, too, in this collection collec-tion a rose taffeta gown that is, trimmed with some of the same material ma-terial pinked on the edges. Another frock has little leaves cut from woolen cloth and placed closely together ap-pliqued ap-pliqued on a surface of beige mousse-line. mousse-line. Jade is usea over and over again for buttons, for cobochons, fur buckles, for chains, for girdles. Lelong has a gown trimmed with braiding of lacquered ribbon. Most of the- couturiers use fillet net embroidered em-broidered or embellished in some way or other. It is an extremely popular sort of trimming material. And so is lace. That has not fallen one whit from its fashionable place gained during dur-ing the last season. In fact, If anything. any-thing. U is smarter than ever, for It Is most particularly suited to the making mak-ing of the thinner and airier dresses for springtime wear. Ostrich feather edging and marabou are also being used to a lnrce extent. Doeuillet has n gown of black satin made over a foundation of green satin, and the ed?p of the oversklrt Is trimmed with a fringe of black and green alternating alternat-ing ostrich feathers. |