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Show VOILE A FAVORED SPUING FABRIC Trimmings of: Worsted Embroidery on I Tulle and Chiffon. Black I n Very Popular I New York, March 15. The last I month has proven that Paris is not napping. The couturiers have sup- I piled fashions for the waiting Am- I ericans dcsplto dopresscd conditions,1 and their openings havo been almost I as gay as ever. I say almost, for I ene cannot get ovor the atmosphere I of grief which enters the place when J one sees the suppressed sorrow oTi I tho face of a saleswoman or model. I The mannequins themselves are not J less gay, hut It Is often a forced i gaiety. m The gownB show less chango than I heretofore, hut what they lack in I variety they make up In artistry. I Tho eouturlers have had no heart for tho blzarro, and thereforo liavo improved im-proved upon what they havo had. The Franco Prussian war closed a period noted for its oxtravaganco In dress and following was u tlmo of severity and plainness which was felt over tho ontlro civilised world. To day has seen another porlod of oxtravaganco ox-travaganco closed by a world wide war, and wo are now entering upon unothor porlod which bids fair to bo ono of naturalness and simplicity, and a turning from tho Orientalism, which brought In tho lampshade tunics tu-nics and tho Turkish stylos of a fow seasons back. Tho Paris openings show that voile H wool, silk, or cotton Is used a great deal In tho development of tho new I gowns. There are soparato waists I also made of It, usually In sand or I putty colors. Thoy ault tho khaki I and field cloth suits which nro tho I rage of early spring. I Simplicity is tho modo- In thoso I waists, which button primly down I tho front and aro sometimes tucked I Blngly or In clusters. High collars, I soft, and bonod only at tho Bldos, I aro very popular. Theso collars 1 should not lit tho neck tightly, but 1 wrlnklo loosely ovor tho bones. It at 1 all tight, thoy havo lost their stylo. 1 Tho waists of thin fubrlcs aru by I far smarter than thoso mado of 1 heavier fabrics. Chiffon and a vollo Q which is warranted lndestructlblo 81 and looks moro Uko chiffon than I O vollo, but with tho lattor's nurablllty Is used a great deal for thoso waists, I oven of tho simplest and plainest I styles. Dononth thoso waists aro worn B corset covers of plulu whlto, llcali H colored, or pink taffeta Bcallopod at H tho top and buttoned down the front. H Bolgo and sandcolorcd taffeta Is al-H al-H so usod, to bo worn under whlto chit H fon or vollo waists. H In my Illustration la shown n dress H of tan vollo. Tho boloro effect in HI tho waist is mado of an Irregularly H checked vollo In dull shades of red, Bjj yellow and brown. Tho full skirl is Bfl untrlmmed. BJ Vollo and other fabrics aro being lidHHBHnHHHiH sold with borders In contrasting colors. col-ors. This helps in tho trimming schemo as it usually needs nothing elso to make tho dress complete. A serviceable dress on trim now lines Is shown In my second illustration. illustra-tion. The sldo closing of tho waist, corresponding with the sldecloslng of tho Bklrt, Is both neat and attractive. A high collar with a turnover of whlto shows tho latest whim In collars. col-lars. Notlco tho simple belt of tho samo cloth, even to tho cloth covered cover-ed buckle-. Ono of tho odd and quaint novelties novel-ties In ovenlng frocks Is mado with flounces of whlto tulle edged with pink worsted embroidory. it Is unusual, to say tho least, and very effective. This worsted embroidery is used on chiffon, net silk and vollo. Silk frocks havo embroidered flowers at tho waist, on the end of sashes, ns a border to a hem. A blue frock which I havo recently seen had a fringe around the bottom of yellow and blue crewel fringe. In Europe mourning resigns; it Is seldom that one goes upon the street In Paris, or London, or Berlin without with-out passing moro peoplo In black, or black and whlto, than In any other color. This, of course, causes black and whlto to bo favored hero. Tho now silks show stripes of black and of whlto, with a whlto flower thrown In relief against tho stripes. Black suits aro mado with vests of wldo striped silk. Checks and stripes play a largo part In tho trimming of many of tho spring gowns. A stunning suit r WW$ 1 It -Iflfil T 'h which I saw not long ago of bluo vollo was mado entirely ovor n bluo chotk silk, tho checks being almost an inch square. A frock of black chiffon was mado over a flounced underskirt un-derskirt which had each rufflo finish ed with a band of striped black and whlto silk an Inch and a half deep, tho stripes running up and down. Children's frocks chango much less In comparison with tho styles of thoir oldcrs, but this spring finds tho short walsted frocks much moro popular than tho long walsted ones, although tho latter havo not become passo by any manner of means, Tho short walsted frocks are very bo coming to tho small child and to the petlto girl but for tho tall, or very plump child tho long walsted models are much moro becoming. Tho Dutch styles aro very much tho voguo for tho small girl. Thoso havo Plain, but full skirts, usually of ono color and blouses of whlto, very short; tho skirts aro usually fastened fasten-ed to tho waists with largo buttons. Thoso havo been called tho "Florence T)omboy" dresses probably because somo enterprising wholesaler wanted to got n Dicken's namo for a email girl to correspond with tho boy's "Oliver Twist" suit. |