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1 The New Frocks For Fall Wear What will bo tho now lines of dress-ts dress-ts during tho nppronchlng months? A chnngo nlready Is npparent, oh-lervcs oh-lervcs a Now York fashion correspondent, corre-spondent, though tn somo Instances It may bo only subtly suggested. Women tho country over nro buying buy-ing much i n oro conservatively than In the first flush of rising co.sts. Now Is the tltno for the American woman lo tnko a further stand and to demand real beauty, rcfuso anything Hint Is ust "good enough" In looks or In material, ma-terial, aud lo assert her right lo iv cur the most attractive, dresses, since iho It paying tho highest prices. Bv ?ry day more anil moro benutlful Kowns nro being designed. Women ran hnvo them If they demand them. If, when you nro buying n frock, you lemnnd four things benuty, style, tunllty and suitability nnd refuse my concession,, then your wnrdrobo tvlll enduro ns did our grandmothers' In tho days after tho Civil war. Ho-ranso Ho-ranso of Inferior products continually being forced upon tho mnrkct, It Is possible to attain this result through pcrsovcranco only, but tho gamo Is worth tho cqndlo. Dresses of scrgo nnd duvctyn are Rood for winter days and for tho first roollsh days when ono longs for a lufflclent covering nnd a relief from Iho thin, mussed things of summer. Duvctyn Is perhaps tho smarter, but lha nintcrlnl Is not tho best wearing In tho world. Thcro Is something ibout Its depth of color that makes It tho most sumptuous of all fabrics, nnd It takes on tho lines of tho flguro lo perfection. Many really lovely de-ilgnu de-ilgnu have been turned out In wool crsoy for tho coming season, and this material constitutes n good background back-ground for heavy woolen embroidery. oer(r3 is ruri ruvuruc. Serge, they say In Paris, Is to bo as mart ns duvctyn, nnd, becauso of Its wearing qualities, It must always bo Iho favorlto for everyday use. Nothing Noth-ing Is lacking In the designs that hnvo been created In serge. They hnvo icopo and variety. Wuo scrgo Is be-romlng be-romlng to a lot of women, though many wear It when It Is not becoming. Silks nnd satin coino Into play for afternoon nnd evening dresses, nnd hero, ns always, ono finds nn even measure of tho different materials used. Especially In these dress-up fashions tho decision becomes n matter mat-ter of tnsto and personal preference. Thero nro models In all of them. Tho waists on most of the dresses iro long. When they nro of ono plcco Hits Is the en so, nnd when they nro tnndo of two materials the Joining Invariably In-variably Is at n lowered waistline. One of tho now duvctyn dresses Is In Iho darkest of dark blues, very rich nnd deep In tono. This Is made up with n long waist of whlto satin nnd Iho trimming consists of narrow bands of tho duvctyn loosely held over tho bodice. Tho strips reach from the wnlstllno, nnd Joining to tho ncckllno nro fastened nt both of theso places nnd flop loosely between. This Is an effective frock. Another duvctyn frock was made with tho fashionable apron front. This Is n piece that In this enso was cut circular nnd, being fastened nt the high wnlstllno on either hip, fell gracefully over tho entire front of tho frock. Then there was on underskirt, straight nnd short nnd fnlrly tight. This was embroidered In lines of silver sil-ver thrend. and tho decoration showed nt the Imclc nnd In tiny spaces nt tho foot of Iho npron In front. Tho bodlco was cut kimono fashion with three-quarter three-quarter sleeves nnd was embroidered to hnrmonlzo with the underskirt. Embroidery and Short Sleeves. A serge dress Imported from Purls was embroidered In copper threads about n pointed neck, with very short sleeves. Tho design of tho embroidery embroid-ery was rather open, mndo up of triangles tri-angles with Irregular miles. Thero was an oversklrt, nccordlon pleated, whllo tho short, tight underskirt was mndo of tho serge, showing n line of the copper embroidery. This was a new combination of colors nnd design. Another nice thing about this costume was that It was accompanied by n serge inpe to mntch. It was simply cut nnd tho embroidery running nil around the nmple outlines of tho wrap matched exactly tho embroidery on the gown. There was u soft copper-colored copper-colored fnlllo lining. Kinbrnldcry on sorgo Is most effective effec-tive when It Is dono In tho lighter shades and tones. Serge takes wool aud silk and metal embroidery equally equal-ly well, and It holds tho stitches In place. Ono serge dress tnndo with a high waist In front nnd n bock extending extend-ing from Bhoulders to hem simply belted nt tho wnlstllno hns n trlmmlne of silk dots In bright colors scattered nbout tho space over tho hips. This trimming Is repented around the rounded neck line nnd again In slnv plo little designs at the edges of the elbow sleeves. Another scrgo dress tn onc-plec stylo Is embroidered In white. Iti straight skirt Is relieved by plaited panels Inserted nt either side, anO these sections nro held In nt tho heir by little whlto embroidered bands This gives tho skirt tho plnchcd-nt the-bottom look which so many design' era nre clinging to. And It Is not c bnd style If tho skirt Is long enough One ventures n guess that tho rcnllj good dressers will never wear thcli skirts shorter than 12 Inches nhovc the floor, though somo of the model! now being dlsplnycd soar to 14 Inches or even more. It Is the same way Ir Paris. Thoso Parisians who like tc dress In extreme fnshlons wenr thcli skirts short, shorter, shortest but tin really smart people keep theirs at t ! fniim Inn rl n nnnfill nt tn tltn -ii portions of tho figure. This matter ot proportion hns much to do with the length of skirts. A tnll person enn carry n shorter skirt than her four foot-four sister. Afternoon Qowns Extremely Simple, Tho sntln nnd satin crcpo afternoon gowns nro extremely simple ns u general gen-eral rulo, but they nre Intcrcutlng nnt! really feminine. There Is something nbout the softness of sntln folds thai makes a woman look her best, especially espe-cially when the mnterlal Is handled so that It has n chnnco to adapt Itscll to tho lines of her figure. A drcs In copper-colored satin ts draped Ir two ways on (no skirt. Ono side sweeps from the loft wnlstllno dowr over tho right leg nnd up to meet Itt starting point. Tho other sldo dnet tho same thing In the opposlto direction. direc-tion. Tho olmplo bodlco Is trimmed with n nnrrow banding of gray fui laid about n pointed neckline and the flowing three-quarter length sleeve! aro finished with cording of tho mnterlal mn-terlal Itfelf. Another sntln frock In black hns a hnrem skirt broken ' In four places, where rust-colored chiffon In generous widths Is Inserted. Tho chiffon Is attached at-tached to tho sntln so that when the Hklrt Is pulled out at tho sides It gives somewhat the effect of a striped balloon. bal-loon. Tho kimono waist has a loose panel blnuscd over nt tho waistline nnd lined with the rust-colored chiffon. Headed evening gowns nre quite tho thing, nnd many nre the varieties of beading. It grows more original all tho time, this manner of trimming. A handsome hlnck dinner gown Is mndo of heavy crcpo do chine headed In Jet over the cntlro surface. |
