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Show m The Directoire Note in Coats ,v Fall and Winter Wraps in Line With Features in Other Wearing Apparel. HIGH COLLAR BEETS FAVOR Historic Form of Neck Dressing Is Eagerly Taken Up by Smart Women Wom-en and Success Seems Assured. As-sured. Coats aro nuiong thd first clothes thnt we buy for autumn. There, are sovcrnl reasons ror getting these early lu tho neason. Wo can wear them over our summer dresses and stnrt tho season sea-son with cloth frocks left over rrom spring If we have n good-looking coat. Then, too, the fashions In coats nrc settled earlier than they aro In dresses. There Is not the" constant changing that there Is In frocks. 1 do not mean, writes n Pnrls fashion correspondent, thnt thcro ar. not great changes In coats from one season to another, but that tho styles In coats brought out early In the autumn enrry through the cntlro winter. This fall's topcoats nrc In line with the advanced stylo features seen In other nrtlcles of wearing apparel. Along with tho orlentnl nnd Kgyptlnn notes, which aro being strongly featured In both current nnd ndvnnco fashion models, thcro Is appearing another nolo rostored by Revcrnl Important Im-portant houses. This Is tho Dlrec-lolre. Dlrec-lolre. Hegardlng tho styles or this period there might bo something In common com-mon hetwem tho psychology of 10'JO In Frnnce nnd thnt of tho closing yenrs of tho eighteenth century. Tho stylo of tho Dlrcctolro period was patterned upon exaggerated clnsslcu! outllno nnd appealed to thnt new class or citizens recently como Into power and wealth through Franco's changing political conditions. condi-tions. Tho Paris dressmaker today Is catering to n similar class, thoso who have gained wealth and luflueuco through tho recent war. MlnrtlA In Naui MnrtMft Society Is not yet organized as It was beforo tho war. Everything goes, ns It were, In a hlt-or-mlss style. Tho Paris dressmaker, being forced to study tho state of n now class of customers, cus-tomers, vaguely reaches out for Ideas around which to build models that will conform to this new stnndnrd In tnsto In dress. Just ns tho Dlrcctolro was a melango of classic nnd modern Ideas, so today nro fashions culmlnntlng In a mixture of orient and Occident One of tho most pronounced and Btrlklng features, which hns already registered a success la Pnrls, Is tho high Dlrcctolro collar of organdie or irepe georgette, nnd oven of plnlted cloth. This historic form of neck dressing hns been eagerly taken up by a few smart women and Its success seems to bo assured. Theso Dlrcctolro collars nro seen ns frequently on conts ns they nro on dresses. In fact, tho Directoire Is strongly emphasized In winter wraps. Very smnrt In Its aspect Is tho tnll-oied tnll-oied coat developed In beautiful bertver shades of cloth, that strongly emphasizes empha-sizes tho slim lino of tho Directoire. Such conts nlsn have tho high-mount-lug collar of that period. Dlrcctolro coats were brought out In midsummer midsum-mer duvelnpcd tn bright yellow Uncus, to wear ovc drosses of plaited white organdie iiuido In scml-chemlso farm without n vestlgo or trimming. Only a narrow belt or organdie tied about tho waist broke tho strnlghtness of their lines. Theso dresses were semi-decollete semi-decollete nnd hnd sleeves so shaft thnt they might almost hnvo been said to i , i bo Rleovclcss. This typo of costumo took so well thnt It has been copied In heavier materials far uutuiun. Tho conts may bo or cloth, lined with heavy silk crepe, und the dresses of the sumo mnterlul ns thu coat lining. It Is n perfect costumo for afternoon wenr. Deep Color Tones. Very charming dresses lu deep color tones are being made up In Dlreclolro style. Among the new models shown by one French house are dnrk brown and ror-colored cloths made In n cross between tho Dlrcctolro nnd tho modern mod-ern French dressmaker's Interpretation of thnt period. Ono such model Is developed de-veloped In brown cloth with a high Dlrcctolro Dl-rcctolro frill of ecru batiste. A third Interpretation of tho Directoire Direc-toire Is seen lu three-piece suits developed de-veloped In hluo serge, with beautiful embroideries executed In metal nail-bends nail-bends of Iridescent colors. Tho skirts of theso dresses have u one-side drapery, drap-ery, with n slushed opening at tho side where the drapery falls. Tho coat shows thu cutnwny frout and tho long sides nnd hack do characteristic of the Directoire period. Thcro Is considerable con-siderable dignity In these suits and they are also of n type very becoming to the average American tlgure. A strong point tn favor or the success or the Dlrcctolro Is the fact .that nlmnst all women llko tho simplicity of lino which characterizes It. A coat with ii novel vest hnvlng a Dlrcctolro collnr Is worked out lu n lightweight serge, with accordion plaiting plait-ing set on ut n low hlpllne. This Illustrates Il-lustrates ono of the methods or obtaining ob-taining the long-wnlsted effect thnt has taken such a Arm bold on all mini mi-ni inn conts. It appears In suit coats as well as separato wraps. A rtehotix hut of the Breton sailor type Is worn with the cant. Here tho trimming, which takes tho form of flat silk roses, Is placed beneath tho brim Just over the right ear. Lined With Brocaded Silk. The feature of n pnpulur form of muntlo coat Is tho capo back, which Is lined with a beautiful brocaded silk. Ono of Prcmet's capo mantles Is do-vcloped do-vcloped In lightweight gray homespun. Tho enpe Is very much shorter nnd cut to a point nt tho center back. Thu orlglnnl model was made with tho cupo unllned. The crnzo for plaiting ns n trimming hns set Its mark on the nutumn conts. Thcro are very smnrt coats on which tho trimming consists of Inserted plnlted bands surrounding the skirt In rows nnd or hlgh-plnlted collars of tho cloth. Somnttmcs n vest of embossed leather Is added. Then the high collar col-lar Is of tho leather. Tobncco brown" sergo and soft undressed un-dressed leather In Rott, hnrmonlxliM. shades or brown mako n smnrt ennt. Ono model shows the plnlted trimming. It Is one or the most populnr coats In Paris. Sort brown wool Is chosen far It, with nrgnu-ptnlted bands of the material ma-terial sewn flat. A smart-looking French womnn who recently appeared n this coat woro with It n simple hat of an unusual shade. It was n cloche, pointed at tho sides and trimmed only with n band nnd bow or ribbon. Slio nlso woro gauntlet gloves scnllopcd at tho edge. Ribbon Finds' New Gayety. Throughout all our current styles ribbons continue to display their bright fhndes. Hats nro trimmed with ribbons rib-bons In the farm or the most exaggerated exag-gerated sort or loops and bows. It began be-gan with tho plain rlhhorn, hut theso soon proved too tame far the tnsto of tho present-ilny womnn. so milliners begnn to offer hats decked with the gayest sort ot ribbons with their ui-faceo ui-faceo embroidered In ninny bright col-crs col-crs ns well us thoso of Inirjcnto wpava dlsplnylng vnrl-colored surfaces. A small Turkish cap almost completely com-pletely covered by drooping loops or dnrk ribbon covered wllh n bright pink flower design has n border or myrtle green. A hlgh-collnred vest or the same ribbon Is made to be worn with the hnt. The vogue far embroidering embroid-ering tints is continued. A grur design de-sign Is wrought out In sort green shades. Modistes linvq prepared mnny things to offer their customers this nutumn, but no ine can say Just what will ho accepted. There nrc n great many (tlnse-nttlng lints with tho trimming drooping rrom the top of the crown. An exnggernted military turban Is a populnr model with nil milliners. On theso they plnco the trimming to stnnd directly up In tho rnmt like n rnckode, or ostrich plumes mny cross tho top or tho crown nnd droop almost al-most over the eyes at tho front. |