Show F one hae has forsaken forea kea the convenience IP and tedium of the railway and traveled alone across the rather sinister Bin lster moorland round Bag norea civita it ID ILI with a sense of becu rity that one no sees the lofty rock ot of 0 vieta in front of one at nightfall one can imagine the feelings of a fugitive a pope eay bay out of favor and hying flying the populace 0 o at the sight of the impregnable rock built town tou n which was ono one of his ultimate de fences fances in the pleasant garden of tuscany towns stretch in a friendly way from outskirt outa kirt to outskirt villas join to villas and farms to farms hut but from the lofty rock wall all of orvieto one sees neigh boring towns perched high as it if for observation of an all attacking enemy self contained ae as if it for defence one knows that the wind visits the rock tn in winter for the women wear mear service able shawls as in a fishing village in scotland and the gravity of the summer heat can bo be known by the cactus sticking ita its securely in the wall house seem built to defy the weather some oven as one sinks to the tho lower ioor outlet of the town toun to have needed little help from other material than the lock itself to furnish a dwelling writes gertrude gertrudo bono in country atle A curious house yes it Is a very curious bouse house signora said one of the inhabitants A gentleman came here who eald said it was of Vol VoI origin who knows it Is certainly a curious house aa As one gains the summit of the precipice fenced by the town wall a fanciful person might imagine himself to be standing on the prow of a ship and the un dunduk dulIng ing pale clay earth lapsing on all sides into strange shapes to be an ocean stiff with ith a more formidable substance than ice lee imprisoning one forever on a high pooped vessel ones first impression of a town may endure only to be modified hut but and hills tho the emptiness of the churches baa has something somi thing to do with ll 11 also for tho the familiar coming and go ing in the churches church ca tho the presence of children of lighted and frequented shrines ehrl nce adof add a good deal to the settled and companionable air of an italian to town wn true thoro there Is no kindly and gracious madonna presiding over tho the cathedral at Peru perugia gla only tho the high mystery of tho tile corpus domini and I 1 suspect it to he be rather a comment on human nature in general than italian natura nature in particular that tue tile shrines of our lady of pity of succor Suc corot 1 sorrow of comfort should be thronged with while the churches at of the holy spirit or of the tile trinity should bo be empty aavo save for an occa atonal religious who seeks the aua feri ties rather than tho the consolAti loub of religion for tho the meat duomo cuomo ot of orvieto is almost always empty save for tourists and In priests built on we tide ot of cae mie of those waves aves of inspiration which hleb visited italy it would seem as an though with tho tile of that wave the peoples pe interest in their treasure blackened slackened and they re turned to the half pagan beliefs which sustained their ancestors at rente cost a N lid ild crowd of peasants comes in from the hills and fills the piazza and the duomo cuomo on the stops of which la to a astery mis ms tery signora come t Petea pentecost ost itself and sou ou will BOO sea it said sald ono one of choso loquacious and genial italians whose whoso business it is 1 to awaken his own enthusiasm with that of the tile foreigners there thero IP 10 a j tabernacle similar to this in the mu seum one of the first models for the shrine of the corporale corporate venerated in the duomo cuomo set up on tho the steps of the cuomo duomo on the opposite side of the piazza are the clouds of heaven with in the tabernacle there Is the madonna sitting above and below kneel the 12 apostles all with little candles at cached to their heads A white bite dove ply 0 I 1 69 44 41 r A 5 IV PIAZZA D I 1 never revisit orvieto without recovering anew the sensation aich I 1 had on my first visit that of halt the people having gone away and the remain ing houses being too large and numerous for those who have stayed behind it was wan the equivalent of a winters evening though I 1 had left spring in rone rome and thin snows were lingering in wreaths upon the treeless hills the wide lane whose edge Is its the convent wall of san bernardino was empty save ave for the activity of one bright star street after street was vacant the palaces seemed forsaken some even bau had the air of baring been abandoned suddenly and unfinished it may be that in reality the emigration gration so deplorable a feature of modern modem italy has smitten orvieto ibave other towns of a like size but I 1 think the natural features of the toa have something to do with the 1 blon blou of constant going away and ness few vehicles pass through the town as an in a less rugged country countrywide ade the steel approach forbids the heavy cart the str streets beets save for an occasional omnibus from the hotels are of traffic and the continual presence of saddled mules and assee asses oi ol men with sheepskin cloaks folded about them deepens the impression ft of a population t I 1 on will which ch bt sivate wa ways jur vur and passing on difficult ault roads Is brought to the and fastened with outspread wings within a hoop of ironworks Iro works at midday the fireworks are lighted and the dove travels along a wire toward the tabernacle there Is to a great crackling and noise and when the smoke has cleared away one I 1 sees all the holy apo apostles atles kneeling with lighted flames upon their beads heads it Is of course especially important for the cont contadine adint observe the wind why wilf for then them above the others ot hersT I 2 asb ask they come up in crowds sigu ora answered he be for they all believe that in whichever direction the wind blows while the dove Is in flight will be bo the prevailing wind during tha the nar harvest vest and it Is 13 very important that they should know you will see ele nom ora the will not be watching LA palomba at all they will be watching the wind they came in crowds crowd fi as he hart had said and encamped in iho ifie piazza plazza all day eating their food OL ora the cathedral steps wild looking men and handsome women the elaborate ela borato structure of re bigton and dogma embodied in the church behind them having touched them but lit it Is neer tho the mystery witult tho the cuomo nor the thought of pentecost that has urged them from their forms farms it Is to the th wind eInd they have come to watch |