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Show Of interest to E$dp Readers SEPARATE WAISTS ARE MANY AND VARIED. r ., As the Summer Deepens New Styles Appear Fresh. From the Rooms of the Modistes Gray the Color of the Minute. Pan's, June 25. At no time of the year are the advantages of the separate separ-ate waist so plainly seen and felt as in the summer time. Without the detachable detach-able waist a woman's wardrobe would i he limited to a few gowns compared to the great number which fhe can afford I upon the same allowance, if she takes advantage of the opportunities offered And never were these opportunities as numerous. There are no less than twen-i twen-i ty new waist materials, all manifestly for the fashioning: of waists alone and not skirts: and, besides the fabric themselves, there are dozens of trimmings trim-mings that come for waists only and are scarcely used at all upon skirts Take so simple a thing as lace cloth and note how seldom it is employed for skirt materials. Its use is.olainly for the bodice; and you find it exclusively made into shirts, boleros and fronts. Then there are the many handkerchief gooods. which are growing more numerous nu-merous every day, and which are employed em-ployed for waists and scarcely for skirts. The line lawns and tulle and chiffon are, of course, used for whole costumes, but it is safe to say that they are made into waists twenty times to once, when they are used for skirt materials. The gold trimmings are designed specially for bodices; and so are the silver and steel designs which come this season in quaint shapes to be applied ap-plied to the shoulder or the waist. Many are the styles that are designed specially for the separate waist. THIS NEW WAIST. The very latest is the Roberts waist, which may, in time, become as fashionable fashion-able as the Garibaldi was twentv-five years ago. The Roberts is a blouse with tucked front set in like a vest. From the arm-seams come two broad pieces which are tied upon the bust in a big bow with long ends. The waist may be made of pink lawn, the tucked vest o white sheer goods, while, coming from each arm. are two very long streamers of the thinnest linen, with the ends bordered with lace. These materials are ordinarily in the Roberts waist. Another waist, very new and very much in style, is the one worn by Mrs. James Brown Potter at a war bazaar the other day. Her pretty and serene ladyship sat in a -flower booth, with .-iiMuioers ana arms rising irom a sea of loses. Her skirt was scarcely visible vis-ible and might have been any kind of white goods, plain and devoid of dis- tinetiuii, but the bodice was a dream. Rose taffeta, beautiful, -.soft and the color of a peach blossom was laid in tiny tucks from neck to belt, nothing but tucks, one by the side of the other, no larger than a cord, and very regular. regu-lar. Over the waist was worn the smallest bolero, all of silver gauze, with silver figures appliqued upon it. The edge was outlined with a tracery of silver put on in scroll design. Around the neck rose a soft cream arrangement partly of tulle and partly of silver thread, a very dream of a stock. i Newport will receive its share of Paris handiwork this, season.. Gowns have been sent over to Mrs." W. K. Yanderhilt, jr., to Mrs. Clarence Mae-' kay. .and to half a dozen other of the! prominent young society women of j ' Newport. No order ever quite equals i the ones given by Mrs. John Mackay for her daughter-in-law, and there are pretty stories told of the devotion which the ladies- bear for each other. The baby gill, too, has her Paris gowns and one is to be all of baby blue taffeta with a lace slip over It, the n"k and waist' being confined with hunches of very fine white ribbons. For a maid of less than a year this makes a very 'dainty gown. A VISION IN RED. Virginia Vanderbilt is extremely partial par-tial to bright reds and, in her summer wardrobe, is a bodice made of bands of red satin alternating with Russian insertion. Underneath is a red taffeta c.irset cover with lace insertion run-ning run-ning the other way. The neck has a simple fold of tulle over taffeta with a lug bow of red tulle in front the ends short. No waist but has its little coat, and this is supplied with a bolero front, consisting con-sisting merely of a curve of lace sewed to the arm-holes and appliqued to the bodice. But how describe the glories of the many exquisite waists that are offered for sale or worn by women whose ; wealth allows them to indulge their : fanciesl A waist, all of latticed lace, i was a novelty. It was worn by the ' Countess of Essex, one of the most1 beautiful of the titled American girls, j and was seen at a garden party in ; London the other day. The waist was i a Paris importation and the modiste who made it is authority for the statement state-ment that it was the most expensive separate bodice she had made this season. sea-son. The lace was Point de Paris, with a thread upon each edge, similar to insertion. in-sertion. Piece after piece of this lace nine i trMfifl li mm A SUMMER WRAP OF CHIFFON, RIBBON AND LACE. had been crossed and interwoven until a perfect lattice was made, after the fashion of interlacing ribbon waists. Then the bodice was cut out. It must have taken a sharp scissors and a hard heart to shear through those lovely meshes, but the waist was cut out and very simply made into a blouse, rather full in front, and brought down to the long point so desired. The sleeves were plain with a body of yellow and white striped silk, faultless In fit. They are making these summer waists with little bolero coats, one over I the other until they are three deep, all of lace and each a little longer than I the last, but none meeting in front and i none touching the belt line in the back. Such charming little lace coats, you enjoy en-joy touching them and fingering their delicate patterns. A LACE SEASON. It was truthfully written by one of J the great dressmakers of Paris that this would be a lace season. In communicating com-municating with an American patron he said: "Decide upon lace, for nothing noth-ing except lace will be worn." And his prediction has come true, for lace is the one fabric of the hour, and of the season. The surplice of India lawn, caught ' at the left side with a gold ornament, has a sailor collar crossed in front and fastened upon the same gold button that holds the fold of the surplice waist. The sailor collar has a deep pointed edge and is as broad in the front as in the back. These collars are cut a little low in the neck and are without finish, precisely pre-cisely like the regulation sailor collar. But of course they are made of more delicate materials, generally lace over taffeta, or of the most elegant white lawn embroidered in exquisite silks. It is only a short time since it was WW MOST TO THE BOTTOM OF THE SKIRT. considered the worst of bad taste to wear a transparent yoke. This season nearly all the bodices are made in this way. One of theh debutantes at the president s reception the other day wore a yoke so deep and so transpar-' transpar-' ent as to be almost startling. The : yokes continue to increase in depth and : as they grow no thicker, they become ; more startling. Madame Loubet wears ; the plainest of gowns always. Believe j not the rumors that yokes will be short and built of heavy velvets. On the contrary, con-trary, their style is already decided upon; gauze, lace and the thinnest of sheer materials will be used for these yokes. They are making a charming tucked waist of washable fabrics. Lawn or linen can be used. The tucks extend across the figure, front and back, with a narrow embroidery stitch covering the Seams of the ivaict Tha ,rr.u adjustable one, either white or colored. col-ored. Tt is slipped on under the body of the waist which is supported by small straps of gold braid, embroidery or ribbon. They are wearing neat little ribbon arrangements for belts. Velvet ribbon is knotted at the back of the waist and falls in a cascade of loops almost to the floor. SKIRTS AND WAISTS. The skirt this year has by no means lost its distinctiveness, , but is overshadowed over-shadowed just at this moment by the waist. Many of the skirts have tunics, with tucked fronts to correspond with any tucked waist; other skirts show a yoke of lace, deep enough to resemble a short tunic. The foot of the skirt must flare and here again you see lace, for it peeps forth in the skirt fan around the feet and in a foam of little ruffles. "Hats are large and darker," wrote a fench milliner to a patron at the seashore. sea-shore. She referred to the immense Ladysmiths, with their curling brims. White chip, lined with black, and piled very high with fealh?rs and silk are worn; so are the flat hats with the flower srarden on top. Parasols are greatly trimmed. Plain parasols are purchased by prudent women of the well dressed but not extravagant ex-travagant colony, and trimmed with bands of lace insertion, carefully appliqued ap-pliqued to the silk. Around the top, instead of a fall of lace, there may be a band of ribbon. Gray is very fashionable, and, worn with white, has a particularly cool look. The pearl gray lawns are made up with white lace and combined with cream India linens, with exquisitely soft results. Pale blue goes well with pearl gray, and if. to the two, is added cream white, then you have a soft and beautiful beau-tiful combination. Among the novelties it is noticed that sleeves are getting smaller at the shmilrter na tiT innro'iQfl at tVia 1-iQTirt That the tendency to make the bodice in coat and shirt is inoreasins. That many waists open in the back under a broad box plait. That tulle is an important adjunct - HAT OF ROUGH STRAW, WITH VELVET BAND. of dress, either in the shape of broad tie strings for the hat or in rosettes at the back of the neck, or again in choux rosettes where buttons or metal ornaments orna-ments were once used. Also that mignonette, cunningly fashioned from silk and velvet, is worn in a great bunch upon the corsage. |